jammin screw
Well-Known Member
damn bro that is nice...... thats a bonzai on steroids lol.......... hella nice
One man and his bush - 1 plant SCROG in Stealth Cab - Chocolate Berry
- Thread starter lilindian
- Start date
scotia1982
Well-Known Member
You'l b fine once you get into it bro, we're all the same when it comes 2 it 
Devils love
Member
i cummed...i think like 5 times? just :S wow.
maariic
Active Member
jizzed in your pants?
lilindian
Well-Known Member
Eskobars response to the update:
"Heya,
The top of the buds will keep on flowering, do not wait for those.
The plant looks ready to harvest.
Its like those old thai bricks they use to smuggle, but u have it on a living stick.
Nice work.
Good choice of slow drying, speciall darkness is important.
Have fun
Grdz e$ko,"
"Heya,
The top of the buds will keep on flowering, do not wait for those.
The plant looks ready to harvest.
Its like those old thai bricks they use to smuggle, but u have it on a living stick.
Nice work.
Good choice of slow drying, speciall darkness is important.
Have fun
Grdz e$ko,"
lilindian
Well-Known Member
In a what now? The airpots are good i have to say, if i look through the side holes i can see where the roots have reached and have been air pruned, so they do work like theyre meant to. If you water slowly and use the airpot the correct way round, you will have no issues of water gushing out the sides. I'd reccomend them for this type of grow as you never really know how long you'll b vegging for, how big a pot you'll need, and u can grow bigger plants in smaller pots using airpots. Seen a few AI grows but i'd love to see a master kush version of this. Keep me posted and thanks! If u need anythin just gimme a shout
iPot
Well-Known Member
Thanks for responding. I wont be able to start my grow for a couple months, I will be sure to let you know when I start it.
Its just a wardrobe. I always called them Armoires.
lilindian
Well-Known Member
Any ideas what ur gona do with it?
lilindian
Well-Known Member
So i've decided to rebuild my set up before next grow and will be starting completely from scratch again. I will recycle as much wood/mylar/equipment as possible.The plan is to increase the footprint from approximately 90cm x 50cm to approx 100cm x 70cm. This doesn't sound like the biggest of increases but with a grow like this it'll allow me to get another 5oz + i'm sure.
The real reason behind the increase in size is to accomodate more lights. I'm planning on hanging another cool tube in the flowering cab which will run a MH bulb through flowering. The ballast i look to buy is switchable from 250W/400W/600W to even 660W Super Lumens, giving me loads of flexibility. So i'll have a 600W HPS + probably a 400W MH for flowering next time, no CFL's, they're getting moved to the veg cab. For the time being i'll stick to my current UVB light, which will be hung in the middle of the 2 cool tubes.
The bigger footprint will also allow me to do a vertical SCROG in 2 grows time if i'm not getting a bit ahead of myself, and will easily accomodate a 4 plant "reverse" scrog for my next grow.
The frame of the cabinet will be made from Stud Work Timber (2x1), with the walls made out of 12mm MDF to give a bit of sound insulation and more importantly strength. 12mm will also give me plenty of depth to screw into if and when needed, at the moment none of the sides of my cab are screwable, something thats caused me a few problems in the past. The mylar will be stretched and stapled to the MDF this time, hopefully meaning completely flat sides with no pockets of air behind it and maximum space for plants (further flaws of my current cab).
I've pretty much been converted to SCROG grows now, can't see myself doing anything else, and for this reason i've decided to reduce the height of the flowering cab as the extra space wont be needed. I've drawn up a very rough design with very rough dimensions just to get a better idea of things. At the moment i've split everything into 4 sections with sheets of 12mm MDF separating each compartment.
1 - The bottom compartment will be used to house the intake air filter and drainage system. Any excess space can be used to store nutrients/growing equipement.
2 - The next compartment up is the flowering chamber. Much like this grow, i'm planning on creating a pull out tray, the only difference is this time i'm gona build it strong enough to never doubt its strength/integrity! Since transplanting Suze into her 45L air pot, i've been too scared to pull her out on the rollers in fear that the whole plant will drop once the weight of 50L worth of wet soil is pulled out past a certain point. The runners i plan to use for next time round are telescopic for starters, meaning i'll be able to pull out the entire set up well past the doors of the cabinet, instead of being able to pull like 90% of the plant out like at the moment. The runners i'm using at the moment are cheap ones taken off furniture in my room. They're not designed to hold more than say 20-30kg, so how they're holding up at the moment is beyond me. The ones i've bought are designed to hold 120kg, have ball bearings for easy movement. Bit pricey but should work beautifully if all goes to plan.
This chamber i have measured out to be just over 1m from top to bottom. This reduction in size will in turn mean the veg cab that sits on top will be more accessible.
3 - The next little chamber will house the ducting going from the flowering cab (bottom) to the veg cab (up on top). I have a similar compartment in my current set up, but have decided it needs a bit of a redesign for next time round. For starters i've decided to make it twice the size in terms of height. This is for 2 reasons, A.) to make accessing stuff in here easier (more space for hands) and B.) it needs to house my 5" RVK.
4 - Lastly the top chamber. This will be my veg cab. It is pretty much the same size height wise as my current one, however in my current one there is wasted space above the T5 light and the mylar which was stuck flat using spray glue has now peeled off the walls due to intense negative pressure, so it needs a rebuild/redesign anyway. There will be a 4 bulb T5 light in here and possibly the 2 CFL's i'm currently using in the flowering cab on Suze.
The ventilation for this cab will require no extra fans or anything. It will suck air from my flowering cab below (airing out that cab), before going back down and through both cool tubes in the flowering cab and extracted out. So the airflow goes a lil something like this.
Air in from outside through wall ----> through particle filter ---- > Through the 5" inline fan and Into flowering cabinet -----> Passively sucked into the veg cab ------> then back down and through the RVK in the 3rd chamber -----> RVK should blow plenty of relatively cool air over the MH bulb which in turn will be blown over the HPS bulb --------> my other RVK extractor which will suck all this out.
I have tested this air exchange set up but not with 2 cool tubes. This is why i'm using the second RVK, to hopefully dissipate any extra heat generated from the extra HID light.
The air intake and the RVK in the 3rd chamber will be connected to the temperature fan speed controller i have.The ducting in between the veg cab and flowering cab will be snaked to ensure no light leaks between the two.
Air coming into 1 chamber will always be extracted from the opposite corner to ensure good air movement throughout each compartment.
On the pull out surface i plan to make a tray, angled towards one corner, with a drainage system connected to catch any split water/excess run off, much like this time, just a lot better designed/built.All in all it should be a much cleaner, neater and easier to manage set up, with a lot more usable space.
Below is the rough sketch i did of my plans, helps me plan things out like what goes where ect. None of it is proportionally correct and dimensions are approximates.
Blue Ducting = fresh air entering chamber(s)
Red Ducting = air being extracted from chamber(s)/hot air
Hopefully you can understand the diagram, its not my best. I will do a little construction journal for anyone interested once i begin the build. Probably wont start for another couple weeks yet. Need to get Suze harvested and dried in the current flowering cab before i start.
If anyone has any suggestions or anything i'm all ears.
The real reason behind the increase in size is to accomodate more lights. I'm planning on hanging another cool tube in the flowering cab which will run a MH bulb through flowering. The ballast i look to buy is switchable from 250W/400W/600W to even 660W Super Lumens, giving me loads of flexibility. So i'll have a 600W HPS + probably a 400W MH for flowering next time, no CFL's, they're getting moved to the veg cab. For the time being i'll stick to my current UVB light, which will be hung in the middle of the 2 cool tubes.
The bigger footprint will also allow me to do a vertical SCROG in 2 grows time if i'm not getting a bit ahead of myself, and will easily accomodate a 4 plant "reverse" scrog for my next grow.
The frame of the cabinet will be made from Stud Work Timber (2x1), with the walls made out of 12mm MDF to give a bit of sound insulation and more importantly strength. 12mm will also give me plenty of depth to screw into if and when needed, at the moment none of the sides of my cab are screwable, something thats caused me a few problems in the past. The mylar will be stretched and stapled to the MDF this time, hopefully meaning completely flat sides with no pockets of air behind it and maximum space for plants (further flaws of my current cab).
I've pretty much been converted to SCROG grows now, can't see myself doing anything else, and for this reason i've decided to reduce the height of the flowering cab as the extra space wont be needed. I've drawn up a very rough design with very rough dimensions just to get a better idea of things. At the moment i've split everything into 4 sections with sheets of 12mm MDF separating each compartment.
1 - The bottom compartment will be used to house the intake air filter and drainage system. Any excess space can be used to store nutrients/growing equipement.
2 - The next compartment up is the flowering chamber. Much like this grow, i'm planning on creating a pull out tray, the only difference is this time i'm gona build it strong enough to never doubt its strength/integrity! Since transplanting Suze into her 45L air pot, i've been too scared to pull her out on the rollers in fear that the whole plant will drop once the weight of 50L worth of wet soil is pulled out past a certain point. The runners i plan to use for next time round are telescopic for starters, meaning i'll be able to pull out the entire set up well past the doors of the cabinet, instead of being able to pull like 90% of the plant out like at the moment. The runners i'm using at the moment are cheap ones taken off furniture in my room. They're not designed to hold more than say 20-30kg, so how they're holding up at the moment is beyond me. The ones i've bought are designed to hold 120kg, have ball bearings for easy movement. Bit pricey but should work beautifully if all goes to plan.
This chamber i have measured out to be just over 1m from top to bottom. This reduction in size will in turn mean the veg cab that sits on top will be more accessible.
3 - The next little chamber will house the ducting going from the flowering cab (bottom) to the veg cab (up on top). I have a similar compartment in my current set up, but have decided it needs a bit of a redesign for next time round. For starters i've decided to make it twice the size in terms of height. This is for 2 reasons, A.) to make accessing stuff in here easier (more space for hands) and B.) it needs to house my 5" RVK.
4 - Lastly the top chamber. This will be my veg cab. It is pretty much the same size height wise as my current one, however in my current one there is wasted space above the T5 light and the mylar which was stuck flat using spray glue has now peeled off the walls due to intense negative pressure, so it needs a rebuild/redesign anyway. There will be a 4 bulb T5 light in here and possibly the 2 CFL's i'm currently using in the flowering cab on Suze.
The ventilation for this cab will require no extra fans or anything. It will suck air from my flowering cab below (airing out that cab), before going back down and through both cool tubes in the flowering cab and extracted out. So the airflow goes a lil something like this.
Air in from outside through wall ----> through particle filter ---- > Through the 5" inline fan and Into flowering cabinet -----> Passively sucked into the veg cab ------> then back down and through the RVK in the 3rd chamber -----> RVK should blow plenty of relatively cool air over the MH bulb which in turn will be blown over the HPS bulb --------> my other RVK extractor which will suck all this out.
I have tested this air exchange set up but not with 2 cool tubes. This is why i'm using the second RVK, to hopefully dissipate any extra heat generated from the extra HID light.
The air intake and the RVK in the 3rd chamber will be connected to the temperature fan speed controller i have.The ducting in between the veg cab and flowering cab will be snaked to ensure no light leaks between the two.
Air coming into 1 chamber will always be extracted from the opposite corner to ensure good air movement throughout each compartment.
On the pull out surface i plan to make a tray, angled towards one corner, with a drainage system connected to catch any split water/excess run off, much like this time, just a lot better designed/built.All in all it should be a much cleaner, neater and easier to manage set up, with a lot more usable space.
Below is the rough sketch i did of my plans, helps me plan things out like what goes where ect. None of it is proportionally correct and dimensions are approximates.
Blue Ducting = fresh air entering chamber(s)
Red Ducting = air being extracted from chamber(s)/hot air
Hopefully you can understand the diagram, its not my best. I will do a little construction journal for anyone interested once i begin the build. Probably wont start for another couple weeks yet. Need to get Suze harvested and dried in the current flowering cab before i start.
If anyone has any suggestions or anything i'm all ears.
Jay_normous
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you've got a plan...
How many plants you planing on scroging???
How many plants you planing on scroging???
maariic
Active Member
You coud run small lumber-mill with the amount of electricity this closet will spend! Don't you have to start worrying about copters with so much energy converted to heat? Where do you exhaust it finaly?
Man you are crazy! After next grow you will be elected as scrog president! I like the plan you are going to build it. Don't forget to update building site.
Man you are crazy! After next grow you will be elected as scrog president! I like the plan you are going to build it. Don't forget to update building site.
lilindian
Well-Known Member
4 plants: New Blue diesel (R) , Sour Strawberry Diesel (F), Engineers Dream (R) , Sugar Punch (F)
Well i plan to do a 4 plant SCROG but as they're not all feminised i might come across some males i'll have to get rid off. So i'll plant 4 but potentially only flower 2.
The other option is to plant 4 and veg them, take clones, flower them, find out which are male/female, keep the females, dash the males, and plant a next seed of the ones that turned out to be male along side the female clones. Then i'd need to repeat this until i've got 4 clones of gaurenteed females. Then i can begin scrogging. If i go down this route, there's no point in starting the scrogging until i know all are females, and that could take a while....
I won't be using THAT much more than i currently am, a little more yes. I'll only be using the veg lights for the last 3-4 weeks of flowering, all other times they'll be off unless i'm keeping clones, and even then i'll only be using the 1 t5 light. In fact, i'll probably be using LESS power than i currently am, depending on what wattage MH i use.
I live in a highly built up area with a foot+ of bricks on 3 out of 4 sides of the cab. Also my bedroom sits at 25C, and i don't plan to have my cab running any higher than 29C max, so the heat signature will be minimal coming from the cab if any with a 4 degrees difference. I'm planning on getting rid of the heat at soon as its created, before it has time to heat anything up. So a copter wont have a heat signature to pick up, none more so than whats coming off the back of my mac!
The current cab is also fully insulated, i'm debating whether to bother on my next one... Everything is exhausted up the chimney, and by the time it travels 2+ floors up, it would have cooled down a lot.
I can get you a great deal on a 900 or 1200 watt led that will fit that cabin nicely! pm me if you want details.So i've decided to rebuild my set up before next grow and will be starting completely from scratch again. I will recycle as much wood/mylar/equipment as possible.The plan is to increase the footprint from approximately 90cm x 50cm to approx 100cm x 70cm. This doesn't sound like the biggest of increases but with a grow like this it'll allow me to get another 5oz + i'm sure.
The real reason behind the increase in size is to accomodate more lights. I'm planning on hanging another cool tube in the flowering cab which will run a MH bulb through flowering. The ballast i look to buy is switchable from 250W/400W/600W to even 660W Super Lumens, giving me loads of flexibility. So i'll have a 600W HPS + probably a 400W MH for flowering next time, no CFL's, they're getting moved to the veg cab. For the time being i'll stick to my current UVB light, which will be hung in the middle of the 2 cool tubes.
The bigger footprint will also allow me to do a vertical SCROG in 2 grows time if i'm not getting a bit ahead of myself, and will easily accomodate a 4 plant "reverse" scrog for my next grow.
The frame of the cabinet will be made from Stud Work Timber (2x1), with the walls made out of 12mm MDF to give a bit of sound insulation and more importantly strength. 12mm will also give me plenty of depth to screw into if and when needed, at the moment none of the sides of my cab are screwable, something thats caused me a few problems in the past. The mylar will be stretched and stapled to the MDF this time, hopefully meaning completely flat sides with no pockets of air behind it and maximum space for plants (further flaws of my current cab).
I've pretty much been converted to SCROG grows now, can't see myself doing anything else, and for this reason i've decided to reduce the height of the flowering cab as the extra space wont be needed. I've drawn up a very rough design with very rough dimensions just to get a better idea of things. At the moment i've split everything into 4 sections with sheets of 12mm MDF separating each compartment.
1 - The bottom compartment will be used to house the intake air filter and drainage system. Any excess space can be used to store nutrients/growing equipement.
2 - The next compartment up is the flowering chamber. Much like this grow, i'm planning on creating a pull out tray, the only difference is this time i'm gona build it strong enough to never doubt its strength/integrity! Since transplanting Suze into her 45L air pot, i've been too scared to pull her out on the rollers in fear that the whole plant will drop once the weight of 50L worth of wet soil is pulled out past a certain point. The runners i plan to use for next time round are telescopic for starters, meaning i'll be able to pull out the entire set up well past the doors of the cabinet, instead of being able to pull like 90% of the plant out like at the moment. The runners i'm using at the moment are cheap ones taken off furniture in my room. They're not designed to hold more than say 20-30kg, so how they're holding up at the moment is beyond me. The ones i've bought are designed to hold 120kg, have ball bearings for easy movement. Bit pricey but should work beautifully if all goes to plan.
This chamber i have measured out to be just over 1m from top to bottom. This reduction in size will in turn mean the veg cab that sits on top will be more accessible.
3 - The next little chamber will house the ducting going from the flowering cab (bottom) to the veg cab (up on top). I have a similar compartment in my current set up, but have decided it needs a bit of a redesign for next time round. For starters i've decided to make it twice the size in terms of height. This is for 2 reasons, A.) to make accessing stuff in here easier (more space for hands) and B.) it needs to house my 5" RVK.
4 - Lastly the top chamber. This will be my veg cab. It is pretty much the same size height wise as my current one, however in my current one there is wasted space above the T5 light and the mylar which was stuck flat using spray glue has now peeled off the walls due to intense negative pressure, so it needs a rebuild/redesign anyway. There will be a 4 bulb T5 light in here and possibly the 2 CFL's i'm currently using in the flowering cab on Suze.
The ventilation for this cab will require no extra fans or anything. It will suck air from my flowering cab below (airing out that cab), before going back down and through both cool tubes in the flowering cab and extracted out. So the airflow goes a lil something like this.
Air in from outside through wall ----> through particle filter ---- > Through the 5" inline fan and Into flowering cabinet -----> Passively sucked into the veg cab ------> then back down and through the RVK in the 3rd chamber -----> RVK should blow plenty of relatively cool air over the MH bulb which in turn will be blown over the HPS bulb --------> my other RVK extractor which will suck all this out.
I have tested this air exchange set up but not with 2 cool tubes. This is why i'm using the second RVK, to hopefully dissipate any extra heat generated from the extra HID light.
The air intake and the RVK in the 3rd chamber will be connected to the temperature fan speed controller i have.The ducting in between the veg cab and flowering cab will be snaked to ensure no light leaks between the two.
Air coming into 1 chamber will always be extracted from the opposite corner to ensure good air movement throughout each compartment.
On the pull out surface i plan to make a tray, angled towards one corner, with a drainage system connected to catch any split water/excess run off, much like this time, just a lot better designed/built.All in all it should be a much cleaner, neater and easier to manage set up, with a lot more usable space.
Below is the rough sketch i did of my plans, helps me plan things out like what goes where ect. None of it is proportionally correct and dimensions are approximates.
Blue Ducting = fresh air entering chamber(s)
Red Ducting = air being extracted from chamber(s)/hot air
Hopefully you can understand the diagram, its not my best. I will do a little construction journal for anyone interested once i begin the build. Probably wont start for another couple weeks yet. Need to get Suze harvested and dried in the current flowering cab before i start.
If anyone has any suggestions or anything i'm all ears.
jdillinger
Active Member
OMG YOU ARE A FUCKING MAN!!!... or lady.. no disrespect... JUST FAAAAKKKKKK
Jay_normous
Well-Known Member
I done a very similar lay out on rooms, I found that my veg room wasn't big enough as I was only using a few clones to scrog.. I also had a large of clones that were given away..
Could be something to look out for maybe?
Best of luck Buddy...
Could be something to look out for maybe?
Best of luck Buddy...
lilindian
Well-Known Member
I would. Its been tried and tested over a number of years! Ive climbed up to my roof and stuck my head over the chimney and failed to smell or even feel anything. Chimneys in my house arent shared, each room has its own one so i can rest assured the heat/smell isnt being pumped into another room/house
I would, but from what i know leds units are stupidly expensive to buy right? Just how good a deal are we talking here? Pm me details. Also if i were to go for LEDs, well ive got so much HID equipment that would just go to waste, ballasts, bulbs, hoods, extractors ect. Would hav to think about it..
Glad you like! Thanks for stoppin in
Thanks for the heads up, this is something i have thought about. I dont want to have too big a veg cab for the sole reason that i want to keep my plant count down. For that reason i dont plan to hold on to too many clones either, just ones for strains i dont hav fem seeds of, incase i wana grow em again.
If it comes to it i'll build another cab that i'll keep as a cloning station, using the 2cfls ive got for light. The T5 will stay in the veg cab
