Chevyboi081
Active Member
Tropicana cookie,Oreoz, gelato 33, purple punch, ice cream cake, runtz s1, & slapz all from clone and a donkey butter bag seed that I grew last summer
Open show an tell2021.
- Thread starter thumper60
- Start date
Tropicana cookie,Oreoz, gelato 33, purple punch, ice cream cake, runtz s1, & slapz all from clone and a donkey butter bag seed that I grew last summer
john wishmyer
Well-Known Member
2 cherry pies indoor vegg until the vegg window hits 13:30 of outdoor light
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DCcan
Well-Known Member
Anyone try Agri-Fos/ Garden Phos/ Reliant systemic fungicide before? Also screws with mites.
Salts of Phosphorous acid, phosphite
Acts like a foilar fertilizer, or root drench at low levels, gets absorbed and induces systemic resistance to blight/mold like Regalia.
Looks like veg might be best for foliar because of how phosphite ions take up same place as phosphorous ions.
extension.psu.edu
Salts of Phosphorous acid, phosphite
Acts like a foilar fertilizer, or root drench at low levels, gets absorbed and induces systemic resistance to blight/mold like Regalia.
Looks like veg might be best for foliar because of how phosphite ions take up same place as phosphorous ions.
Understanding the Phosphonate Products
Sorting through the different phosphonate products (potassium phosphite, phosphorous acid, fosetyl-Al, etc.) can be difficult.
extension.psu.edu
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john wishmyer
Well-Known Member
dude try lost coast plant therapy wash!
ive had a persistent mite problem, i gave lost coast plant therapy a run and its good so far.. organic tooAnyone try Agri-Fos/ Garden Phos/ Reliant systemic fungicide before? Also screws with mites.
Salts of Phosphorous acid, phosphite
Acts like a foilar fertilizer, or root drench at low levels, gets absorbed and induces systemic resistance to blight/mold like Regalia.
Looks like veg might be best for foliar because of how phosphite ions take up same place as phosphorous ions.
Understanding the Phosphonate Products
Sorting through the different phosphonate products (potassium phosphite, phosphorous acid, fosetyl-Al, etc.) can be difficult.
DCcan
Well-Known Member
I haven't decided what I'm using for a regular citric based knockdown spray,( Dr zymes, Lost coast, Flying skull)
Flying Skull has no essential oils( citric+yeast), Lost Coast probably has the most, Dr zymes is somewhere between with added yeast
Phos spray isn't for mites specifically, just a side effect on spider mite reproduction from foliar spray. More for SAR against soil pathogens, PM.
I'm using most of this on host plants for fusarium and PM in the garden area, systemic use in veg for pot.
Not expecting miracles, just mitigation and some damn cucumbers after August
Foliar application gets quickly absorbed, transported to roots, causes SAR response in plant for PM, black mold, etc.
Root application for SAR/ Fungucide use is similar, just slower since the roots have to absorb it.
The roots can't turn Phosphites into usable phosphorus, but the biotics and degradation can...over time, so not an available fertilizer.
Fertilizer use is different, you put it into the soil at a much higher rate, biotics/time turn it into usable fert while the high phosphites inhibit certain pathogens.
Too much Phosphite tied up in ion exchange can cause deficiencies, so the soil can't be deficient in usable P before it breaks down.
Flying Skull has no essential oils( citric+yeast), Lost Coast probably has the most, Dr zymes is somewhere between with added yeast
Phos spray isn't for mites specifically, just a side effect on spider mite reproduction from foliar spray. More for SAR against soil pathogens, PM.
I'm using most of this on host plants for fusarium and PM in the garden area, systemic use in veg for pot.
Not expecting miracles, just mitigation and some damn cucumbers after August
Foliar application gets quickly absorbed, transported to roots, causes SAR response in plant for PM, black mold, etc.
Root application for SAR/ Fungucide use is similar, just slower since the roots have to absorb it.
The roots can't turn Phosphites into usable phosphorus, but the biotics and degradation can...over time, so not an available fertilizer.
Fertilizer use is different, you put it into the soil at a much higher rate, biotics/time turn it into usable fert while the high phosphites inhibit certain pathogens.
Too much Phosphite tied up in ion exchange can cause deficiencies, so the soil can't be deficient in usable P before it breaks down.
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DCcan
Well-Known Member
Finally, crackin 24 beans yesterday, 3 weeks late. All need sexing, all are semi auto short season sativas.
Doing @getawaymountain
3x Goldmine Skunk
3x Kodiak Poison
6x Poison Warp
12x Critical Chemmando cross from Caspar Seeds.
Treated the seedling plugs with low dose seaweed juice, Regalia, Lalstop, Botanigard, used it on 4 other trays of vegetables.
Watered the heck out of them, 100% germination, no damping off later. The whole tray had a layer growing across before I watered again. (vegetable trays)
The Botanigard B. bassiana spreads like crazy, spilled some on the basement floor a year ago, endemic now, still growing instead of mildew when it gets wet.
xtsho
Well-Known Member
You can mix your own citric acid spray. That's what I do. Many of these products are just water with 1 or 2 active ingredients.
Regalia is Extract of Reynoutria sachalinensis (Giant Knotweed).
Organocide 3 in 1 is sesame oil, fish oil, a surfactant, and water.
And then others are basically just combination of citric acid, oils, surfactant and water.
I've started making my own copycats of various products and so far they have all been highly effective. I can understand not wanting to bother making your own but if you're like me you already have all the ingredients on hand or can get them very easily. Just mix them in a spray bottle for pennies instead of paying $15 a bottle.
DCcan
Well-Known Member
I didn't have to do more than 2 spot treatments with knockdown spray last year, not sticking to my spray schedule was the only reason I had to use it at all. Paying $40-80/qt for concentrate ($100+/gal) just seems high, but takes the thinking and worry out of it.
Citric, sorbate, surfactant, essential oils, water, yeast seem to be common.
I'm cycling Venerate, Lalstop , Regalia, Agri-Fos, & surfactant into the IPM plan this year.
What a difference over using soap to break up neem and oils, spreads so much better.
Citric, sorbate, surfactant, essential oils, water, yeast seem to be common.
I'm cycling Venerate, Lalstop , Regalia, Agri-Fos, & surfactant into the IPM plan this year.
What a difference over using soap to break up neem and oils, spreads so much better.
NewEnglandFarmer
Well-Known Member
Pup has that "are we going for a walk now?" look in his eye. Either that or "is it supper time yet?"
You're busy alright. What size pots are those?
I'm just starting week 3 here, halfway through up-potting from the seedling trays. They spend the days outside in the sun and breeze now and go inside the shed at night. So far so good...100% germination on the Copper Chem and Chinook, but only 1 of 4 on the leftover Cherry Wine seeds from last year. But I've got 30 Cherry Wines from this year's seeds (looks like 6 didn't germinate) so all good. We got some well-needed rain here over the weekend, hopefully more this week.
thumper60
Well-Known Member
King is always ready to eat an run, Those are 12 gal pots should be done first of july i will do 3 runs like that harvest will be a month apart.Do you run a light in the shed? I have unsexed seedling in the unheated GH for 2 weeks now growing great.
NewEnglandFarmer
Well-Known Member
I should try an autoflower sometime for kicks. Can you tell the difference in the final results from regular photoperiod? Are they tricky to raise? Not a lot of margin for error I'd guess...
I have some modest LEDs in the house but now that the plants are sleeping in the shed at night I'll move the lights out there. I actually don't use them much except for the first couple weeks or on a really gray day (or when it's too cold outside). And when I do I just mimic the natural daylight hours--my theory is the plants need darkness to rest, for one thing, plus there's lots of root growth happening at night. And this way they won't get confused about what time of year it is and start preflowering early.
thumper60
Well-Known Member
all i grow is full season plants, These plants will be moved in an out each day till the end i do have lights in the barn incase of rain later on. I tried autos one yr they all rotted one rainy july week they were inground no moving.
NewEnglandFarmer
Well-Known Member
Ah, so you bring them in a little earlier each day then? I'll have to try that sometime.
So one thing I'm realizing--there's really no going away on vacation during the growing season. It's a full-time job!
thumper60
Well-Known Member
No they go out at 7 am in 7 pm each day. I have a blacked out space with lighting. No vaca for me till Nov. Iam retired so iam really on vaca all the time LOL.
NewEnglandFarmer
Well-Known Member
Interesting. How does the bud quality compare between those and your full-season plants?
I only have 1 season of experience but I didn't get those really dense rock-hard buds on any of the 5 strains I grew, have heard that outdoor bud tends to be a little looser and airier.
I only have 1 season of experience but I didn't get those really dense rock-hard buds on any of the 5 strains I grew, have heard that outdoor bud tends to be a little looser and airier.
NewEnglandFarmer
Well-Known Member
Looking mighty good there Thump. How warm did it get at your place yesterday? Hit 76 in the shade here yesterday!
They going in the ground next week? I may wait until June--still need to sex.
Got a feeling we'll be bailing the irrigation water to 'em this summer alright. Pretty handy having the river right close, huh? I'll be lucky if our brook isn't dried up by flowering time. Shouldn't complain, at least we're not dealing with smoke and fire like our brothers and sisters on the West Coast.