DeepWaterDean
Active Member
Why does optimal PH change from hydro to dirt?
Optimal PH
- Thread starter DeepWaterDean
- Start date
JohnDee
Well-Known Member
Not an easy question since the chemistry can be complex. I would say one of the most important elements is the buffering sytems. Soil tends to be self-buffering while hydro systems rely on the chemical reactions with the nutrients.
JD
Renfro
Well-Known Member
In "dirt" I run 6.5 - 6.8 with great results. I am using a peat based mix (Berger BM6) it's very similar to Promix HP or Sunshine 4 but they seem to regulate their pH better.
When I first switched from hydro I was running 6.3 and having issues. I went lower and things got worse. I wasn't very inclined to go higher but it wasn't until I did that things cleared up for me. So 6.5 - 6.8 is what I am running now.
If using a living organic soil then you shouldn't have to worry about the pH so much as the food is in the soil and being broken down by the microbial life. In this case it's good to let your tap water sit and allow the chlorine to evaporate before you use it so you don't harm the microbes and disrupt the balance in your "dirt". In this case soil amendments prior to potting are the main way of providing food not bottled nutrients.
DeepWaterDean
Active Member
Hi five dude.
DeepWaterDean
Active Member
Did you read my question?