Organic Feeding 101.

Organic feeding provides great results. A good organic grow starts with the soil. (look at subcool's section on that. he knows soil.) Im going to go over strictly what to do once the plant is in the dirt, and you still need to feed them something. Feeding the plants the right stuff is key to successful grows, and knowing what to feed and when, is needed for every grower.

If your plant has some sort of issue, theres threads on that https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/488004-guide-nutrient-deficiency-toxicity.html . this thread is gonna cover what do to AFTER you notice a deficiency, or just to keep a healthy garden. this will be using only organic nutrients. Ive purchased bottles of guano, and molasses and wondered... what now? well this is what now.

**note: most of these teas/mixtures involve some mixing, but a lot of wait time. this is to fully let the properties of the substance combine with the water, and for microbial activity to start. Do not skip the waiting**

Vegetative Teas:

Worm humus:
Origin:this mix is produced from the excrement of worms. they ingest organic material and you end up with this. The best quality of worm humus is going to be from the Californian worms.
Provides: water soluble, and boosts microbes in the soil
Preparation: In 5 liters of water, add in 400gr (about 2 cups) and let it sit for 2 days. stirring every so often to keep it well mixed and the water somewhat oxygenated.
Application:During the watering, mixing 1 part of poo-juice with 3 parts water. you can add this in weekly.

Blood Meal:
Origin: After removing and drying blood from animals(usually in a slaughterhouse), it is ground up into a fine powder.
Provides about 12-15%N, 1.2%P, and 1%k
Preparation: in a container, add 1 part blood meal to 9 parts water. cover. over 1 week, open to burp the mix, and stir. after, filter with coffee strainer.
Application: Applying usually only when N deficiency is noted, add to water to create a 10%-25% strength solution.

Gypsum
Origin: CaSO4. Its a rock basically, you can find it naturally outdoors, or (probably easier) at a local plant shop.
Provides: Activates healthy microbial activity. Corrects salinity (toxic salt levels). Provides sulfur, calcium and potassium. Regulates pH, and most importantly, helps in the absorption of N.
Preparation: add 1 pound of gypsum powder (use a mortar and pistil if its too coarse) to the inside of a nylon stocking, or other fine screen material. place this inside a container with 5L of water. Cover. leave for 1-2 weeks, opening the container to stir briskly every few days.
Application: Add it in with the water when pH is unstable, max 10% strength (so dilute it!). dilute it to 5% if mixing it with a N tea, and can be used weekly.

Fishmeal
Origin: obtained from dried, ground fish.
Provides: 8%N, 7%P, trace elements.
Preparation: mix 10% of this powder with 90% water in a container. leave it a week covered, and opening it to burp out the gas (dont breathe it in, smells). Filter at the end of the week.
Application: Dilute the mix, 1part fishgoop with 10 parts water. add in weekly with the feedings, or when a N/P deficiency is noted.

Bat Guano
Origin: decomposed bat poo. preferably pasteurized (since bats can and do carry disease, like rabies!)
Provides: High in N, but also contains P and trace elements. Fresher guano has higher N rating
Preparation: 2 tablespoons of bat poo in 4 -5 liters of water. let sit for 1 week
Application: mix the finished poo water, 1 part to 3 parts water. use every 2 weeks.

Mixed Teas: This is ok for veg + flowering.

Compost Tea (one of my favorites, as i use ground up male plants, or the sticks/stems/fan leaves of the harvested females for this)
Origin: The easiest to come across commercially, or to make at home. this is used worldwide with a variety of ingredients.
Provides: A big boost of microorganisms, helps feed the plants, and boosts a plant's immune system. NPK ratios vary depending the type of compost made.
Preparation: Place a bunch of dead plants in a nylon stocking or screen, put that inside a bucket with about 15L of water, adding water as it evaporates (which means leave it uncovered). after 2 weeks, dump the inside of the bag/screen/stocking back with the rest of your compost pile outside or throw it away or whatever.
Application: If you want to foliar feed this, filter it well, then 1:8 ratio of tea to water. otherwise, just add it in when watering, at a 1:5 ratio. use it every 2 weeks.

Alfalfa Tea. (can also be used during flowering)
Origin: your rabbit's food. this is ground up alfalfa, leaves, stems.
Provides: 2.5%n, 5%p, and 2%k.
Preparation: grabbing a nylon sock and filling with 1 part of the alfalfa, setting it into a bucket with 10 parts water. leave it for a week to create a strong tea.
Application: use every 2 weeks, diluted 1part tea with 10 parts water.

Manures
Origin: the business end of various animals.
Provides: This really depends on what the animal ate, and what the animal is. Rough estimates are:
Cows: .6%N-.3%P-.3%K
horse: .6%N-.6%P-.4%k
Rabbit: .5%N-1.2%P-.5%K
Sheep: .8%N-.5%P-.4%K
Pigs: .6%N-.6%P-.4%K
Preparation: 1 part crap to 10 parts water, in a bucket. 2 weeks, stirring periodically. (again, this is better for the nylon stockings, otherwise your gonna have to filter it - yuck)
Application: 1 part poop water to 1 part water. can be used every 2 weeks.

Fruit tea, with or without Molasses.
Origin: made with fermenting fruits. its recommended to add molasses for flowering.
Provides: Rich in NPK, but also contains calcium and some other trace elements. Very rich in microbial activity. Using molasses adds a large amounts of carbs and can contribute to fungus (in high heat grows)
Preparation: Cut fruits into small pieces. place in a container and cover them with molasses( OR cut up fruits, place into a ziploc bag with NO molasses or air) Let it sit for 2 weeks, opening it periodically to let out gases. filter.
Application: 1 tablespoon of fruit rot juice (ew) to 1 liter of water. use it every 10 days.

Flowering Teas:

Banana Peel Tea.
Origin: Bananas. Cheap to make. eat the banana, use the peels.
Provides: Strong Potassium Boost. ideal for flowering.
Preparation: after selecting 4 bananas, and eating the insides, place the 4 peels into a pot, with 4 cups of water (1L). You can also add in 2 tablespoons of molasses. Bring to a boil. let boil for 5 minutes. remove the peels. let cool. place in jars for storage.
Application: mix this 1 part banana goop to 2 parts water. use every 2 weeks.

Sea Weed
Origin: algae or kelp, dried, ground into a powder.
Provides: Lots of K, and trace elements, aminoacids, vitamins, hormones.
Preparation: 100grams of algae powder + 2Liters of water, let sit overnight.
Application: mix 1 part of sea weed juice to 3 parts water, and apply during waterings. can be used every watering.

Paper Ash tea.
Origin: This powder is obtained from burned paper. make sure the paper has no pigments (inks), glues, adhesives, or plastic covering. just plain paper. the cheaper the stuff, the better.
Provides: 5% P and 2% K
Preparation: Burn the paper fully. Ground up the ash. 100g of ash mixed with 2 L of water. let sit 10 days, then filter.
Application: use every 15 days, mixed 1 part ash juice to 2 parts water.

Bonemeal
Origin: Bones, crushed, ground up.
Provides: some N (3%?) and around 7% of P. high in calcium
Preparation: cook in a pot for 10 minutes, 200grams of bonemeal with 6 liters of water, and 1/2 cup of baking soda. let cool, then remove any grease that may have formed at the top. filter the rest of the mix.
Application: Use 1 part bone water to 3 parts water. use it at the start of the 12/12 cycle, or the start of flowering. will last the entire grow.



if you guys have other recipes, post them on here!
For the fish bone mixture or blood meal mixture could I do a similar thing with coffeee grounds to make a solution to take care of my nitrogen deficiency. I can post up a picture when I get home but I see the yellow climbing up my plant and need to fix it ASAP and idk how available blood and fish meal are to me. Also for the mixture are you using the part that was strained to make a solution like the hoop or are using the liquider part that was strained. Thank you so much.
 

Cali.Grown>408

Well-Known Member
Best thing seems to be to add a lot of those things to your soil. Then just make teas out of comfrey, nettle, yarrow, and dandelion, banana peel water..lol gotta try that
 

FresnoFarmer

Well-Known Member
COMPLETE ORGANIC FERTILIZER (C.O.F.)


Alfalfa Meal: N-P-K * = 3-2-2
This is dried alfalfa ground to a meal. It acts as a slow release nitrogen source.

Cottonseed Meal: N-P-K * = 6-1-1
This is the ground meal from cotton seeds. It’s nitrogen is almost 85 per cent water
insoluble making it a slow-release fertilizer.

Rice Bran: N-P-K * = 4-3-1
Rice bran is a by-product of the processing of white rice.
Soybean Meal: N-P-K * = 7-2-0
Derived from soybeans, soybean meal is prized for its high nitrogen content and as a
source of phosphorus.

Fish Meal Products: N-P-K * = 5-2-2
Fish by-products make excellent fertilizers. You can buy them in several different forms.
Fish emulsion is derived from fermented remains of fish. This liquid product can have a
fishy smell (even the deodorized version), but it’s a great complete fertilizer (5-2-2) and
adds trace elements to the soil. When mixed with water, it is gentle, yet effective for
stimulating the growth of young seedlings. Hydrolyzed fish powder has higher nitrogen
content (12%) and is mixed with water and sprayed on plants. Fish meal is high in
nitrogen and phosphorus and is applied to the soil. Some products blend fish with
seaweed or kelp for added nutrition and growth stimulation.

Linseed Meal (Nutrient value similar to soybean meal)
This is derived from the manufacturing of linseed oil, also known as flax seed oil.

Beet Pulp (dried)
A high-energy food source for soil microorganisms, This is a by-product of the sugar
beet industry.

Oyster Shell
This contains a high percentage of calcium which is good for strong cell formation in
plants and prevents bud-end rot on tomatoes. It also contains a number of other trace
minerals.

Kelp Meal: (Ascophyllum nodosum) N-P-K * = 1-0-2
Kelp meal products are a natural and cost effective enhancement to any fertilization and
conditioning program. They are suitable for all crops and applications, and can be mixed
with most soil conditioners and fertilizers.

Bat/Seabird Guano: N-P-K * = 10-10-2
Yes, this is what sounds like--the poop from bats and seabirds. It comes in powdered or
pellet form and is high in nitrogen. Bat guano only provides about 2% phosphorus and
no potassium, but seabird guano contains 10 to 12% phosphorus, plus 2% potassium.
The concentrated nitrogen in these products can burn young plants if not used carefully.
They tend to be more expensive than land-animal manures.


MINERAL BASED FERTILIZERS


Chilean Nitrate of Soda: Mined in the deserts of Chile, this highly soluble, fast-acting
granular fertilizer contains 16% nitrogen. It’s also high in sodium though, so don’t use it
on arid soils where salt build up is likely, or on salt-sensitive plants.

Epsom Salt: Epsom salt not only helps tired feet--it’s a fertilizer too! Containing
magnesium (10%) and sulfur (13%), Epsom salt is a fast-acting fertilizer that you can
apply in a granular form or dissolve in water and spray on leaves as a foliar fertilizer.
Tomatoes, peppers and roses love this stuff! Mix 1 Tablespoon of Epsom salt in a gallon
of water and spray it on when plants start to bloom.

Greensand: Mined in New Jersey from 70 million-year-old marine deposits, greensand
contains 3% potassium and many micronutrients. It’s sold in a powdered form, but
breaks down slowly so is used to build the long-term reserves of soil potassium.

Gypsum: This powdered mineral contains calcium (20%) and sulfur (15%). It’s used to
add calcium to soils without raising the soil pH.

Hard-rock Phosphate: This mineral powder contains 20% phosphorus and 48%
calcium, which can raise soil pH--avoid it if your soil is already alkaline. It breaks down
slowly, so use it to build the long-term supply of phosphorus in your soil.

Soft-rock Phosphate: Often called colloidal phosphate, soft-rock phosphate contains
less phosphorus (16%) and calcium (19%) than hard-rock phosphate, but the nutrients
are in chemical forms that plants can use more easily. This powder breaks down slowly,
so one application may last for years in the soil. It also contains many micronutrients.

Limestone: This mined product has various nutrient levels, depending on its source. It
is used primarily to raise pH, but dolomitic limestone, which is high in calcium (46%) and
magnesium (38%), also adds magnesium to the soil. This powder also comes in an
easier to spread granular form. Calcitic limestone is high in calcium carbonate (usually
above 90%). Conduct a soil test for pH and for magnesium to find out which kind of lime
and how much to add to your soil.
* Nitrogen - Phosphorus - Potassium
 

olaf687

Well-Known Member
I been following this thread I see your talking about making teas out of these ingredents but could I just top dress? I was planning on making a mix of crab meal, allpauco poop, and blood meal mix and sprinkle on top of my pots. I plan only using half or less of the reccomended dose especially the blood meal. But im completely new to this. So my question is can I top dress instead of making teas? Oh and I have an outdoor grow and currently building a greenhouse so i can cover them in fall so I can extend flowering. They are in 30 gallon pots mostly ocean forest mixed with roots organics, ancient forest, black gold. I been applying diamecius earth to the top soil for about 2 weeks now. And spraying neem on leaves and few squirts in soil.
 

MrKnotty

Well-Known Member
I been following this thread I see your talking about making teas out of these ingredents but could I just top dress? I was planning on making a mix of crab meal, allpauco poop, and blood meal mix and sprinkle on top of my pots. I plan only using half or less of the reccomended dose especially the blood meal. But im completely new to this. So my question is can I top dress instead of making teas? Oh and I have an outdoor grow and currently building a greenhouse so i can cover them in fall so I can extend flowering. They are in 30 gallon pots mostly ocean forest mixed with roots organics, ancient forest, black gold. I been applying diamecius earth to the top soil for about 2 weeks now. And spraying neem on leaves and few squirts in soil.
Yes you can top dress instead of making teas.
 

OkieSmoke

Member
I have been trying something new for me. OKC water is horrible for plants, but it is loaded w/ minerals and such. I created a small water treatment plant with two trash barrels, goldfish, and cheap sub pumps and air. The first barrel gets filled with tap water and is aged with a pump and activated carbon, and from there it is pumped to the larger barrel w/the fish. The water is used as needed from the fish barrel after they have worked their magic adding nutrients and such. The circulator is homemade from PVC with air, pump, and activated carbon, but no filtration to remove the little goodies from the fish. The results have been dramatic in the first grow since process stabilized.

Anyone else use live fish to treat their water supply?
 

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DustyDuke

Well-Known Member
I have been trying something new for me. OKC water is horrible for plants, but it is loaded w/ minerals and such. I created a small water treatment plant with two trash barrels, goldfish, and cheap sub pumps and air. The first barrel gets filled with tap water and is aged with a pump and activated carbon, and from there it is pumped to the larger barrel w/the fish. The water is used as needed from the fish barrel after they have worked their magic adding nutrients and such. The circulator is homemade from PVC with air, pump, and activated carbon, but no filtration to remove the little goodies from the fish. The results have been dramatic in the first grow since process stabilized.

Anyone else use live fish to treat their water supply?
Only to grow basil on top of my fish tank
 

blazeaglory420

Well-Known Member
I have been trying something new for me. OKC water is horrible for plants, but it is loaded w/ minerals and such. I created a small water treatment plant with two trash barrels, goldfish, and cheap sub pumps and air. The first barrel gets filled with tap water and is aged with a pump and activated carbon, and from there it is pumped to the larger barrel w/the fish. The water is used as needed from the fish barrel after they have worked their magic adding nutrients and such. The circulator is homemade from PVC with air, pump, and activated carbon, but no filtration to remove the little goodies from the fish. The results have been dramatic in the first grow since process stabilized.

Anyone else use live fish to treat their water supply?
Sorry to bug but could you send me a PM with more detail in regards to your fish poo operation?? haha I think that is very cool!
 

Kraven99

New Member
i used this as an amendment to my base soil (Super Cools Super Soil Recipe) and 1/2 strength guano tea (guano soaking in water for 2 days).

Results were great! Right now most of my buds are curing but from some i've tested out tasted/smoked very smooth and i didn't have to flush either...another benefit to growing organic.
You 100% definitely still want to flush when you're using organic nutrients otherwise you'll have the same kind of problems that synthetic growers get when they don't flush
 

ChrispyCritter

Well-Known Member
You 100% definitely still want to flush when you're using organic nutrients otherwise you'll have the same kind of problems that synthetic growers get when they don't flush
[/QUOTE
And once again what are those problems, and how does pouring water on them alleviate those problems? Since when do we flush vegetables? Oh yeah, we don't.
 

Dabbie McDoob

Well-Known Member
Love some of the options available and suggestions.
As an hard-core organic grower, this is great advice for new growers.

Such as shame the canna industry is so focused on manipulating folks into thinking a magic liquid is going to cause the plant to grow awesome.
 

Dapper_Dillinger

Well-Known Member
any dead vegetation. i prefer to use dead pot plants, this way i know the plants were similar in terms of nutrient balances, and also i know my waste products arent leaving the property (security first!)


    • Preparation: Place a bunch of dead plants in a nylon stocking or screen, put that inside a bucket with about 15L of water, adding water as it evaporates (which means leave it uncovered). after 2 weeks, dump the inside of the bag/screen/stocking back with the rest of your compost pile outside or throw it away or whatever.​



they sit in water for 2 weeks. no lid.

then it says 1 to 5 ratio. so check how much tea ya have, if its close to 1 liter, then you add 5 liters of water, ending up with 6L of tea (thats about 17% strength, i dunno, little less then 20%)

then add to the plants. if you want to foliar feed it (spray it on the leaves) then dilute it more.
At what stage do you recommend foliage spray? Any thing that you have had great results with ?
 

CTGrown203

Well-Known Member
Best thing seems to be to add a lot of those things to your soil. Then just make teas out of comfrey, nettle, yarrow, and dandelion, banana peel water..lol gotta try that
Try Malibu’s best compost has all of that stuff and DAIRY cow manure Best stuff I’ve ever used
 

meangreengrowinmachine

Well-Known Member
not to hijack but.. Wondering what everyone thinks of my soil recipe? Also I am looking to add possibly Gypsum to the mix but not sure in what ratio with this mix, also I am using LEDs so I want to have a really high availability of calcium and magnesium as it seems like LEDs (and from what I have read a lot on these forums) seem to make plants much more Cal-Mag hungry. I also have access to plenty of goat, rabbit, chicken, Turkey and Pig droppings as well as ground dried egg shells and banana peals to use. What do you all think?? thanks!

peat moss 7.5 gal
worm castings 3.75 gal
compost 3.75 gal
perlite 7.5 gal
lime 3 cups
glacial rock dust 12 cups
that's my base

then I mix my amendments together as below
kelp meal 6 cups
epsoma tomato tone 3 cups
alfalfa meal 3 cups
neem meal 3 cups
crab meal 3 cups
finely ground egg shells about 3 cups
azomite about a cup

I then take a total of 7.5 cups of the amendment mix and add it to the base and let it sit for at least 4 weeks...
 

myke

Well-Known Member
Ill bet your tomato tone has all the right ratios so per cu/ft 1.5 cups tone.1 cup kelp, done
Im doing similar 1.5 cups gaia 4-4-4 and 1 cup kelp.
 

Hash Hound

Well-Known Member
not to hijack but.. Wondering what everyone thinks of my soil recipe? Also I am looking to add possibly Gypsum to the mix but not sure in what ratio with this mix, also I am using LEDs so I want to have a really high availability of calcium and magnesium as it seems like LEDs (and from what I have read a lot on these forums) seem to make plants much more Cal-Mag hungry. I also have access to plenty of goat, rabbit, chicken, Turkey and Pig droppings as well as ground dried egg shells and banana peals to use. What do you all think?? thanks!

peat moss 7.5 gal
worm castings 3.75 gal
compost 3.75 gal
perlite 7.5 gal
lime 3 cups
glacial rock dust 12 cups
that's my base

then I mix my amendments together as below
kelp meal 6 cups
epsoma tomato tone 3 cups
alfalfa meal 3 cups
neem meal 3 cups
crab meal 3 cups
finely ground egg shells about 3 cups
azomite about a cup

I then take a total of 7.5 cups of the amendment mix and add it to the base and let it sit for at least 4 weeks...
that seems pretty strong for 1 qft soil
 

meangreengrowinmachine

Well-Known Member
that seems pretty strong for 1 qft soil
Huh i have seen mixes with much more stuff in it and keep in mind not all of the amendments go into the batch only 7.5 cups into about 23 gallons of base thats about a cup of amendments per cubic foot. Also once it is aged for a while everything is broken down so no heat and all organic amendments so no nute burn problems.
 

Hash Hound

Well-Known Member
Huh i have seen mixes with much more stuff in it and keep in mind not all of the amendments go into the batch only 7.5 cups into about 23 gallons of base thats about a cup of amendments per cubic foot. Also once it is aged for a while everything is broken down so no heat and all organic amendments so no nute burn problems.
Sorry I was over looking amounts of the other base amendments.
 
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