Organic no till, probiotic, knf, jadam, vermicomposting, soil mixes, sips etc... Q & A

Chunky Stool

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
Tim Fox said:
here is how my sip grow started out this time around,, i have a DIY cob light panel with 4 citi's 4k's and 2 crees 3K fully dimmable and capable of putting out 375 watts at full power,, which is around 60 watts per square foot if needed,, right now the light is on 275 watts,, or around 40 watts per square foot View attachment 4090781
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Do you run the drivers at 220V?
Are there three drivers on that frame?

Please forgive my ignorance, I just started learning about DIY LED and may do a build soon.
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
They shouldn't be a problem. They will only start doing anything towards the later parts of the grow as they break down.
 
Chunky Stool

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
ShLUbY said:
are you just looking to increase drainage? because they don't really work for that all that long. better options out there. i prefer rice hulls as a mulch more than anything.
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Rice hulls are a good source of silica, which helps build resistance to drought, insect attack, and mold/mildew.
And unlike DE, rich hulls stay put and don't wash out.
 
neroceasar

neroceasar

Well-Known Member
Chunky Stool said:
Rice hulls are a good source of silica, which helps build resistance to drought, insect attack, and mold/mildew.
And unlike DE, rich hulls stay put and don't wash out.
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after a few rounds they'll be completely gone. However, there's duel sides to this for no till & SIPs. If ya have
adequate soil life, they take care of aeration & if your not having cascading water from the top your not fuckin up those burrows. Total water saturation may be an issue but ive been looking into the classic: SAND as a possible remedy. that shit'll last years & years. not to mention its what commercial farmers use for drainage.
 
NoTillPhil

NoTillPhil

Well-Known Member
No problem for me if they last one grow outdoors. I am intending to replace perlite in garden soil. Perlite causes problems after a couple years in garden soil breaking down and assisting compaction. Seems to me while rice hulls would need to be amended yearly it would overall increase organic matter in the soil. Production methods are also more earth friendly.
 
neroceasar

neroceasar

Well-Known Member
they're definitely better & cheaper than perlite. if your looking for something guaranteed to last the year outdoors, pumice or lava rock is best. really depends on where ya are and how big o pots u gotta fill. west coast will have pumice, cheap. if ya go and pick it up at a landscaping place its like $40-80 a YARD. lava rock works, but it ant cheap.
 
NoTillPhil

NoTillPhil

Well-Known Member
I've already amended with compost and will also be adding peat to the native soil. Between the three I think drainage for the year should be greatly improved. I'll be sticking a couple in smart pots and the rest into mounds I started in December. Fortunately we have had enough warm spells to allow the piles to heat and reheat several times since then. I also have a nice bulk compost that will be ready enough to. use as mulch throughout the summer. With luck it will finish and I can add it to the smart pot mix.

My starts below........15242554242931511126567.jpg
 
neroceasar

neroceasar

Well-Known Member
NoTillPhil said:
I've already amended with compost and will also be adding peat to the native soil. Between the three I think drainage for the year should be greatly improved. I'll be sticking a couple in smart pots and the rest into mounds I started in December. Fortunately we have had enough warm spells to allow the piles to heat and reheat several times since then. I also have a nice bulk compost that will be ready enough to. use as mulch throughout the summer. With luck it will finish and I can add it to the smart pot mix.

My starts below........View attachment 4124604
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Nice! another tip if your goin for weight/gurth/size is to skip the smart pot, make a mound or just use garden fabric as siding. believe it or not the pot will restrict roots significantly if they have to grow thru it to the soil. i found it hard to believe initially bc ya always see root poking out the bottom of fabric containers but its true!
 
SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
NoTillPhil said:
No problem for me if they last one grow outdoors. I am intending to replace perlite in garden soil. Perlite causes problems after a couple years in garden soil breaking down and assisting compaction. Seems to me while rice hulls would need to be amended yearly it would overall increase organic matter in the soil. Production methods are also more earth friendly.
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Expanded Shale.
 
neroceasar

neroceasar

Well-Known Member
MrKnotty said:
Have you used one as a top dressing before?
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Ney, but they dissipate faster than most scraps in my worm bin. when i get another one i'll give her a try. I can't imagine it'd do anything negative. my plants really seamed to like the scooby in the res but when ya got near it, you smelled it.....
I checked my res's ph for first time and it was dead on 6.5. really happy with this method hyroot's put together now i've just been diving into KNF and how it can be incorporated more fully with this method. Reallly love the sugar extractions/ferments but IMO and OHN should kick up the game crazy.
 
M

MrKnotty

Well-Known Member
Wow that's super interesting, keep me posted. I'd love to hear the results. I might be sticking a scobi in my water tomorrow! Test it out on some extras ladies!!
 
DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
MrKnotty said:
Wow that's super interesting, keep me posted. I'd love to hear the results. I might be sticking a scobi in my water tomorrow! Test it out on some extras ladies!!
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Just got some of the scobe too, we were talking about this, half jokingly, are you gonna give it a shot, I'd be all ears!
 
Chronikool

Chronikool

Well-Known Member
I just tried a FPJ (Aloe + Comfrey) as a foliar for the 1st time on my veg tent. (its being about an hour. Turned the lights of after) I figured these 2 would make a good combo as one. (maybe kelp and these 2 would be better)

Anywayz...interested if anybody else is having good success and uses FPJ's as part of their foliar routines?

Just tried 50ml to about 2 litres. But may up this dosage.
 
Chunky Stool

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
Chronikool said:
I just tried a FPJ (Aloe + Comfrey) as a foliar for the 1st time on my veg tent. (its being about an hour. Turned the lights of after) I figured these 2 would make a good combo as one. (maybe kelp and these 2 would be better)

Anywayz...interested if anybody else is having good success and uses FPJ's as part of their foliar routines?

Just tried 50ml to about 2 litres. But may up this dosage.
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How much aloe can plants handle?
I've got some gel that I made by mashing up aloe in a jug of water before straining and freezing in ice cube trays.
Can I just throw a few cubes in a 5 gal bucket?
 
DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Chunky Stool said:
How much aloe can plants handle?
I've got some gel that I made by mashing up aloe in a jug of water before straining and freezing in ice cube trays.
Can I just throw a few cubes in a 5 gal bucket?
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About a tsp per Litre is pushing it, imo, anyway..
I would go for TBSP per gallon, and use more often, I find if you go heavier you leave white films and little aloe chunks on the leaves, and you have to mist and clean them off for good photos or clean leaves..

What a treat for the plants though. Check out how potent and loaded this stuff is..

The ten + main areas of chemical constituents of Aloe vera include:
  1. Amino Acids,
  2. Anthraquinones,
  3. Enzymes,
  4. Minerals,
  5. Vitamins,
  6. Lignins,
  7. Monosaccharide,
  8. Polysaccharides,
  9. Salicylic Acid,
  10. Saponins, And
  11. Sterols.

Amino acids found in Aloe vera include:
Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Valine,And Tryptophan.

Some Of The Other Non-Essential Amino Acids Found In Aloe Vera Include:
Alanine, Arginine, Asparagine, Cysteine, Glutamic Acid, Glycine, Histidine, Proline, Serine, Tyrosine, Glutamine, and Aspartic Acid.

Enzymes in Aloe include:
Amylase, Bradykinase, Catalase, Cellulas, Lipase, Oxidase, Alkaline Phosphatase, Proteolytias, Creatine Phosphokinase and Carboxypeptidase.

Aloe vera also contains these Vitamins:
B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, and B12

As well as these elements:
Choline, Calcium, Magnesium, Zinc, Manganese, Chromium, Selenium, Copper, Iron, Potassium, Phosphorus, And Sodium.
 
Chunky Stool

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
DonTesla said:
About a tsp per Litre is pushing it, imo, anyway..
I would go for TBSP per gallon, and use more often, I find if you go heavier you leave white films and little aloe chunks on the leaves, and you have to mist and clean them off for good photos or clean leaves..

What a treat for the plants though. Check out how potent and loaded this stuff is..

The ten + main areas of chemical constituents of Aloe vera include:
  1. Amino Acids,
  2. Anthraquinones,
  3. Enzymes,
  4. Minerals,
  5. Vitamins,
  6. Lignins,
  7. Monosaccharide,
  8. Polysaccharides,
  9. Salicylic Acid,
  10. Saponins, And
  11. Sterols.

Amino acids found in Aloe vera include:
Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Valine,And Tryptophan.

Some Of The Other Non-Essential Amino Acids Found In Aloe Vera Include:
Alanine, Arginine, Asparagine, Cysteine, Glutamic Acid, Glycine, Histidine, Proline, Serine, Tyrosine, Glutamine, and Aspartic Acid.

Enzymes in Aloe include:
Amylase, Bradykinase, Catalase, Cellulas, Lipase, Oxidase, Alkaline Phosphatase, Proteolytias, Creatine Phosphokinase and Carboxypeptidase.

Aloe vera also contains these Vitamins:
B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, and B12

As well as these elements:
Choline, Calcium, Magnesium, Zinc, Manganese, Chromium, Selenium, Copper, Iron, Potassium, Phosphorus, And Sodium.
Click to expand...
Have you tried aloe in a soil drench?
My plants are flowering and I don't like to spray them with anything. Humidity is also high so PM is in the air...
 
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