HererBorealis
Member
Another quick update... preflowers are showing ... 2 Females and I think 1 may be male
Over-watering issue solved?
- Thread starter HererBorealis
- Start date
thenotoriousone
Active Member
Congrats on the fixed Problem! And females to take care of! Good luck on the new beans you order! im about to place a order today or tomorrow for $200+ dollars of beans, i'm problay gonna hit up DR Grinspoon (14week Sativa Heirloom) & Tangerine Dream from Barneys Farm. Just depends how stoned i get when it comes order time and ill nerd out! I have never personally grown Barneys for myself, But i have seen problems with damping off and hermies. A risk i may take. Im a big fan of Bulldog Haze & Energy Haze by Bulldog Seeds. There going outta business, So ill probably get a energy haze aswell.
HererBorealis
Member
Wow notorious, hope all goes well with your seed order. There are some nice strains you mentioned there! Very good luck with the Barneys seeds!
Unity, yes, they were VERY hungry. They were still very small when I had overwatered them, so I wasnt giving them many nutes, guess the overwatering flushed out the little there was! Anyhow, they've been fed twice now (once 1/2 str, once full str) and are looking amazing! Ive started LST'ing and am going to take clones in the next few days! The LST has gone amazingly well! They have responded quickly! all side branches have shown about 1 cm growth per day. In the photos I posted, the branches you see develloping are actually only like 3mm long (1/8 inch) Growth since then has been amazing!
I am totally psyched to see what my girls are going to give up at harvest time! They are looking so great! Ill post pics tomorrow when I get the camera again...
You can really see the difference, the old leaves that are pre-overwatering are starting to die off, and new growth is a rich dark green, very full and bushy, as well as fast!
Anyways, sorry for going on so much about it... But thank you guys, all of you for your help! Especially you notoriousone, you've been there prompt and informative from the get go of my problems! Mad rep to you bro!
Unity, yes, they were VERY hungry. They were still very small when I had overwatered them, so I wasnt giving them many nutes, guess the overwatering flushed out the little there was! Anyhow, they've been fed twice now (once 1/2 str, once full str) and are looking amazing! Ive started LST'ing and am going to take clones in the next few days! The LST has gone amazingly well! They have responded quickly! all side branches have shown about 1 cm growth per day. In the photos I posted, the branches you see develloping are actually only like 3mm long (1/8 inch) Growth since then has been amazing!
I am totally psyched to see what my girls are going to give up at harvest time! They are looking so great! Ill post pics tomorrow when I get the camera again...
You can really see the difference, the old leaves that are pre-overwatering are starting to die off, and new growth is a rich dark green, very full and bushy, as well as fast!
Anyways, sorry for going on so much about it... But thank you guys, all of you for your help! Especially you notoriousone, you've been there prompt and informative from the get go of my problems! Mad rep to you bro!
Sorry to butt in with a word of warning here, but I just feel I have to say it...
Yeah, your plants has been severely overwatered, and that can cause root-rot, ie. pythium, if going on for too long.
Pythium root-rot is systemic and chronic, like plant aids, and will hurt your yields and success. It is mostly dormant in the vegetative stage and will allow for clones from the infected mother to root and grow seemingly normal, but the outbreaks starts in flower, and denies the plant the chance to reach it's full potential.
A couple of great diagnostic tools is to examine the root-tips CLOSELY. If they're well-defined and pointy in vegging plants you are ok, but if the outermost 0,5-1 mm are kinda mushy, you've got it. And in bloom you can check the run-off when watering/reservoir in hydro if you suspect an outbreak. If it's severely acidic and constantly wants to drop, it's a pretty sure sign of rot.
And again, root-rot is systemic, chronic, and follows the clones. System and pythium/plant-strain dependent, you can manage it with some success for prolonged periods, but you will not be able to rid your plants of it once you've got it, and it will to a degree hurt your yields.
Unless you do a complete kill-off and sterilization routine of your equipment of course, and start over from seeds again.
So.
AVOID overwatering at all costs - use 1/3 perlite in your mix to make sure it will not get waterlogged. The perlite will also help "supercharge" your plants, due to the excellent rate of gas exchange you achieve for the roots. Expect to water twice a day.
And if you DO get a case of overwatering, drain as best as you can ASAP, and repot into a larger pot with dry medium to help dry up the wet soil and aerate the roots again.
Pythium is almost inevitable for uninformed fresh growers to catch, and it can fuck up the whole experience for a LONG time due to it's systemic/chronic nature, and veg-dormant/bloom-triggered life-cycle.
Just a heads up, good luck with your grows man!
Yeah, your plants has been severely overwatered, and that can cause root-rot, ie. pythium, if going on for too long.
Pythium root-rot is systemic and chronic, like plant aids, and will hurt your yields and success. It is mostly dormant in the vegetative stage and will allow for clones from the infected mother to root and grow seemingly normal, but the outbreaks starts in flower, and denies the plant the chance to reach it's full potential.
A couple of great diagnostic tools is to examine the root-tips CLOSELY. If they're well-defined and pointy in vegging plants you are ok, but if the outermost 0,5-1 mm are kinda mushy, you've got it. And in bloom you can check the run-off when watering/reservoir in hydro if you suspect an outbreak. If it's severely acidic and constantly wants to drop, it's a pretty sure sign of rot.
And again, root-rot is systemic, chronic, and follows the clones. System and pythium/plant-strain dependent, you can manage it with some success for prolonged periods, but you will not be able to rid your plants of it once you've got it, and it will to a degree hurt your yields.
Unless you do a complete kill-off and sterilization routine of your equipment of course, and start over from seeds again.
So.
AVOID overwatering at all costs - use 1/3 perlite in your mix to make sure it will not get waterlogged. The perlite will also help "supercharge" your plants, due to the excellent rate of gas exchange you achieve for the roots. Expect to water twice a day.
And if you DO get a case of overwatering, drain as best as you can ASAP, and repot into a larger pot with dry medium to help dry up the wet soil and aerate the roots again.
Pythium is almost inevitable for uninformed fresh growers to catch, and it can fuck up the whole experience for a LONG time due to it's systemic/chronic nature, and veg-dormant/bloom-triggered life-cycle.
Just a heads up, good luck with your grows man!
HererBorealis
Member
Wow man, thanks for sharing that info! When I had removed the plants from the soil to "emergency aerate" them I had inspected the roots, they looked very healthy, only thing is that they were thin. Didnt notice any brownish rot on the tips, but there were many lateral "hairs" coming from the roots. I really hope this didnt have time to set in, as they were overwatered and sitting in soggy soil for 2 days. Ill monitor closely, and check the runoff for acidity when I start flowering.
Now I know you mentioned pythium is hard to get rid of, but would you have any suggestions in case I do start seeing symptoms as flowering progresses? I would appreciate any input on this question!
Now I know you mentioned pythium is hard to get rid of, but would you have any suggestions in case I do start seeing symptoms as flowering progresses? I would appreciate any input on this question!
HererBorealis
Member
I checked out Bulldog's website, they say they dont ship to US or Canada, this true? They have good prices though!
Well, for diagnosing it in veg you need to inspect the root tips CLOSELY. Sharp and well defined equals ok, mushy equals systemic rot in most cases. Tips only in veg, the rest looks just fine...
And there are a number of ways to keep it partially under control to save crops, depending on your system and available remedies, and your personal preferences. Search, here and in Google.
Remember that different strains has different tolerances to it, and it even differs between the individual plants in the same strain due to genetic diversity. There are also a multitude of pythium strains and sub-strains, with different capabilities for persistence and devastation.
And also, some claims that it is curable, and some claims that it is not...
I argue, based on mine and others experience and scientific litterature, that in the majority of cases it is NOT. But confusion in this matter easily arises from the fact that it has a veg-dormant/bloom-active life cycle, and some plants are more resistant and some pythium strains milder. And finally, the individual growers varying success in suppressing it with the applicated treatments or "cures" or implemented "preventative measures", may in some cases lead him to believe that it is cured, when infact the outbreaks are only effectively prevented .
Just make sure to keep it the fuck out of your plants in the first place, which is relatively easy with some basic knowledge, experiencence, and sound gardening practices.
And yes, pythium is everpresent in soil and water as dormant spores, and WILL activate and attack plants that are susceptible to it due to moisture stress, low O2 and/or other factors. Then, with ONE sick plant in your room, it will most likely spread to the others as aggressive, live, active pathogens with a very high disease-pressure. As opposed to the dormant, everpresent low-disease-pressure spores before given a chance to take hold...
Good luck.
And there are a number of ways to keep it partially under control to save crops, depending on your system and available remedies, and your personal preferences. Search, here and in Google.
Remember that different strains has different tolerances to it, and it even differs between the individual plants in the same strain due to genetic diversity. There are also a multitude of pythium strains and sub-strains, with different capabilities for persistence and devastation.
And also, some claims that it is curable, and some claims that it is not...
I argue, based on mine and others experience and scientific litterature, that in the majority of cases it is NOT. But confusion in this matter easily arises from the fact that it has a veg-dormant/bloom-active life cycle, and some plants are more resistant and some pythium strains milder. And finally, the individual growers varying success in suppressing it with the applicated treatments or "cures" or implemented "preventative measures", may in some cases lead him to believe that it is cured, when infact the outbreaks are only effectively prevented .
Just make sure to keep it the fuck out of your plants in the first place, which is relatively easy with some basic knowledge, experiencence, and sound gardening practices.
And yes, pythium is everpresent in soil and water as dormant spores, and WILL activate and attack plants that are susceptible to it due to moisture stress, low O2 and/or other factors. Then, with ONE sick plant in your room, it will most likely spread to the others as aggressive, live, active pathogens with a very high disease-pressure. As opposed to the dormant, everpresent low-disease-pressure spores before given a chance to take hold...
Good luck.
HererBorealis
Member
Wow, good stuff. I was planning on repotting my plants before flowering (as I am using 2 gal pots now). That may be a good time to inspect root tips and figure out what action may have to be taken, before flowering begins. I really appreciate you taking the time to explain the issue so clearly, and I will def do some further research on the topic! I am fairly convinced that what I am working with is a fairly hardy strain, as along with this owerwatering thing, I also only started out with only a 1ft floro tube at the very beginning, and growth was still "normal". Although once the soil had dried out, and the roots got some oxygen, growth really took off.
I must agree with your opinion of whether pythium actually "goes away", any dead fungus is still organic material that when exposed to the right conditions, will rot and breed new live fungus! In this manner, it never really goes away, just lies "dormant" as you said. Thx again for your info! +Repz to you!
I must agree with your opinion of whether pythium actually "goes away", any dead fungus is still organic material that when exposed to the right conditions, will rot and breed new live fungus! In this manner, it never really goes away, just lies "dormant" as you said. Thx again for your info! +Repz to you!
thenotoriousone
Active Member
Bulldog doesnt ship to US but you can just go to attitude and get bulldog seeds.
HererBorealis
Member
Hey guys, just thought I'd take time to update the thread with new pics of my wonderful babies! 
Please feel free to give any input on anything you see! My second female Wonderwoman looks like she has N claw...
Here is the breakdown:
430 W Son Agro
Regular Soil W/ 15% perlite
3 Gal pots, 14" around (Transplanted them this week)
Little bit of ventilation (PC fan running all the time)
9 clones taken this week (pics to come)
Have been using MG 24-8-16 for veg, now using MG Ultra Bloom 15-30-15 (changing for something better next time)
Flowering just starting
All have shown preflowers: Wonderwoman 1 is fem. Wondrwoman 2 is Fem (fitting eh) Jack Herer X NL 1 is male (see the balls in pics!). Jack Herer X NL 2 is fem.
I am planning to produce some seed this time around and the male I have (which I had lst'd when he was a young'un, seems a very good pheno for breeding, and tomorrow he goes into the kitchen on the window sill)
Thanks to all here for info and answers to my Q's along the way
Please feel free to give any input on anything you see! My second female Wonderwoman looks like she has N claw... Here is the breakdown:
430 W Son Agro
Regular Soil W/ 15% perlite
3 Gal pots, 14" around (Transplanted them this week)
Little bit of ventilation (PC fan running all the time)
9 clones taken this week (pics to come)
Have been using MG 24-8-16 for veg, now using MG Ultra Bloom 15-30-15 (changing for something better next time)
Flowering just starting
All have shown preflowers: Wonderwoman 1 is fem. Wondrwoman 2 is Fem (fitting eh) Jack Herer X NL 1 is male (see the balls in pics!). Jack Herer X NL 2 is fem.
I am planning to produce some seed this time around and the male I have (which I had lst'd when he was a young'un, seems a very good pheno for breeding, and tomorrow he goes into the kitchen on the window sill)
Thanks to all here for info and answers to my Q's along the way
bobtheslob
Member
Ok mate how long did you not water the plants for - I guess looking at the posting dates about 1 week ??? I have the same issue....