Stomper420
Active Member
This is cool. Good people helping good people..Gotta love it...Keep up the good work usernametaken, ab=nd do keep us updated as she progreses.
Patient in need of grow room advice -please help
- Thread starter Usernamewastaken
- Start date
Usernamewastaken
Well-Known Member
agreed.. Super righteous
MrMeanGreen
Active Member
I personally...... Would put 1 fan directly in between the lights linking them together and reducing ducting (better air flow). Also go a bit overkill on your fans (720cfm or more) and fit controllers, this would give more heat and noise control overall. They are a bit more pricey but worth the investment.
Usernamewastaken
Well-Known Member
After tearing down the drop down ceiling my new ceiling height will be 6 ft.
Updated floor plan:
I have decided to focus on the main room and use the second room i built for misc stuff.
Here are is my revised drawing. So far, walls are framed, taped, 1st layer of mud, electrical ran (not tied in yet).
Comments and suggestions are appreciated.
in regard to CFm. Are you talking about the inline fans that are going to be tied into the duct work? If so, does each one of the fans in the flow of the duct work need to be 720 CFm?
Updated floor plan:
I have decided to focus on the main room and use the second room i built for misc stuff.
Here are is my revised drawing. So far, walls are framed, taped, 1st layer of mud, electrical ran (not tied in yet).
Comments and suggestions are appreciated.
thanks mr green, I will look into adding the fan between the lights.
in regard to CFm. Are you talking about the inline fans that are going to be tied into the duct work? If so, does each one of the fans in the flow of the duct work need to be 720 CFm?
Attachments
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
You kind of went backwards in your design. No need for two carbon filters. Veg plants don't give off that many odors
In the flower room..which apparently your going to veg in the first couple rounds (get MH bulbs for that..you an use 400 bulbs at 600 watts if they are air cooled). Carbon filter> hoods>fan>exhaust through wall into a "silencer box".
Passive light proof opening between flower and clone room. Probably 3' by 1 foot. Two booster fans blowing air into the veg and flower rooms (1 per room) the cheap inline fans push about 150cfm each..so with your 6" can on your lights blowing out around 300 (with the static pressure from the CF ) you should be pretty balanced.
The only issue I see is that if you shut the hood fan off then smelly air is going to leak out of the room. If you leave it on, then it's going to pull cold air all night from your basement. The only real work around I can see right now would be to duct cold air from the outside (through a window box or similar) to the two booster fans. Then when you shut the fans down, any smell would passively leak out to the outside of your house.
You could scrub the air with an additional carbon filter, your just gojng to have to play it by ear. Smells, as they are actually VOCs, will pass through your drywall. Ever paint a room and then close the door and still smell it? There you go.
It's not that bad, just going to have to judge for yourself how much you can tolerate. Would be nice to have an additional CF to run in the clone room or wherever your going to dry your bus. That's when things get really stinky.
In the flower room..which apparently your going to veg in the first couple rounds (get MH bulbs for that..you an use 400 bulbs at 600 watts if they are air cooled). Carbon filter> hoods>fan>exhaust through wall into a "silencer box".
Passive light proof opening between flower and clone room. Probably 3' by 1 foot. Two booster fans blowing air into the veg and flower rooms (1 per room) the cheap inline fans push about 150cfm each..so with your 6" can on your lights blowing out around 300 (with the static pressure from the CF ) you should be pretty balanced.
The only issue I see is that if you shut the hood fan off then smelly air is going to leak out of the room. If you leave it on, then it's going to pull cold air all night from your basement. The only real work around I can see right now would be to duct cold air from the outside (through a window box or similar) to the two booster fans. Then when you shut the fans down, any smell would passively leak out to the outside of your house.
You could scrub the air with an additional carbon filter, your just gojng to have to play it by ear. Smells, as they are actually VOCs, will pass through your drywall. Ever paint a room and then close the door and still smell it? There you go.
It's not that bad, just going to have to judge for yourself how much you can tolerate. Would be nice to have an additional CF to run in the clone room or wherever your going to dry your bus. That's when things get really stinky.
Usernamewastaken
Well-Known Member
Thanks LF,
looks like I over complicated things with my last design. I will take your advice. Thanks!
looks like I over complicated things with my last design. I will take your advice. Thanks!
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
It happens. Grow room setup is ridiculously easy for me know but there was a time I was going around in circles trying to figure it out.
Your main concern is modulating temperatures. There are sooo many variables that are not worth calculating (ergo, your going to have to tweak things a little bit). Things like outside temperature, insulation value of your room walls, efficiency of your hood vents, temperture of your intake air, temperature surrounding your grow room, volume of that space, etc etc etc.
The biggest thing to remember is that air acts exactly like water. You can't pour out water without letting air in. Pumping water through a hole is always faster than letting it "drain" through an opening. (This is why passive intakes are 4x the size of powered ones). Room conditions definitely change throughout the year. Example..during the summer my small room has the minisplit AC running all the time during lights on.
Now, in the winter, I have 3600 watts with a water cooled co2 gen running and I have no cooling at all. My minisplit heats the room at lights out. Two of my walls are concrete and no insulation.
So if I were you I would get your hoods and get growing while it is cold!! Then you can make some cash, buy a 12k minisplit and be done with it. Totally sealed, totally silent (inside anyways), totally smell free, and totally precise. That's a lot of totally for only $800-$1200.
Cheers
Your main concern is modulating temperatures. There are sooo many variables that are not worth calculating (ergo, your going to have to tweak things a little bit). Things like outside temperature, insulation value of your room walls, efficiency of your hood vents, temperture of your intake air, temperature surrounding your grow room, volume of that space, etc etc etc.
The biggest thing to remember is that air acts exactly like water. You can't pour out water without letting air in. Pumping water through a hole is always faster than letting it "drain" through an opening. (This is why passive intakes are 4x the size of powered ones). Room conditions definitely change throughout the year. Example..during the summer my small room has the minisplit AC running all the time during lights on.
Now, in the winter, I have 3600 watts with a water cooled co2 gen running and I have no cooling at all. My minisplit heats the room at lights out. Two of my walls are concrete and no insulation.
So if I were you I would get your hoods and get growing while it is cold!! Then you can make some cash, buy a 12k minisplit and be done with it. Totally sealed, totally silent (inside anyways), totally smell free, and totally precise. That's a lot of totally for only $800-$1200.
Cheers
Usernamewastaken
Well-Known Member
$800-$1200 for that much totally is worth it! I will have this before things warm up here as I will need it once summer hits.
I would love to get this going a little faster but I can only work on the room 2 days a week. I still need to run duct work, tie in electrical that i already ran, seal room, panda film, hang lights, build scrog net, paint floors. I figure I have about 8-10 more days of work. It is winter where i am with snow on the grund. We will have snow for a bit and it will stay cold through march.
Thanks again... Will keep all posted
I would love to get this going a little faster but I can only work on the room 2 days a week. I still need to run duct work, tie in electrical that i already ran, seal room, panda film, hang lights, build scrog net, paint floors. I figure I have about 8-10 more days of work. It is winter where i am with snow on the grund. We will have snow for a bit and it will stay cold through march.
Thanks again... Will keep all posted
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
Panda the whole room and tape the seams. Done. I would seriously skip the floor paint. Waste of time and unless you use epoxy paint, it will flake off when it gets wet.
1/2" conduit and conduit couplers. Just bend the consuit to make corners. 2x3" hole plastic coated fence from Home Depot, zip tie to conduit.Hang from ceiling. Done
PVC is for newbs. It's bulky and flimsy.
1/2" conduit and conduit couplers. Just bend the consuit to make corners. 2x3" hole plastic coated fence from Home Depot, zip tie to conduit.Hang from ceiling. Done
PVC is for newbs. It's bulky and flimsy.
Usernamewastaken
Well-Known Member
Super sick...
We were going to put baseboards and upper trim and caulk it then panda film it. Overkill?
I am going to add a plywood ceiling because right now it's just 2x4's and the bottom floor of the main level. I figure it will allow me to mount lights, nets etc, more easily while helping with odor reduction.
Scrog net list is much appreciated, gonna get started on that soon! Major props and appreciation!
We were going to put baseboards and upper trim and caulk it then panda film it. Overkill?
I am going to add a plywood ceiling because right now it's just 2x4's and the bottom floor of the main level. I figure it will allow me to mount lights, nets etc, more easily while helping with odor reduction.
Scrog net list is much appreciated, gonna get started on that soon! Major props and appreciation!
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
Totally overkill. Panda film everything, use polyglue and staples to hold it in place. Forget plywood, expensive and not needed although it would help with sound. Simply nailing 2x4 to the rafters (after panda) would work just fine
Usernamewastaken
Well-Known Member
Update: I fitted the ceiling with plywood yesterday. Also insulated the space for increased sound deadening (R39).
I am planning on putting up some build pics soon.
I am planning on putting up some build pics soon.
thanks man, I already bought the material. I'm hoping that all the little extra things that aren't needed but are nice help pay off in the long run.
Canibitual
Well-Known Member
here's what I would have done...
2 4x8 tables 4 lights, plus 1 grow tent for veg with a t5 setup in it... simple... effective...
add 1 10" max fan with carbon scrubber for exhaust and a 12" empty duct to the basement for air (negative pressure will pull the air without a fan...)
If possible I would tear the door out and mount it so it opens out... that way you can fit a 50g drum in there for a rez... add a pump with a water hose and you'd be set...
Usernamewastaken
Well-Known Member
I already built the walls. I can still fit a small veg tent in either room if its the right thing to do...I like that idea and not something I had originally thought of.
The door isn't in yet and we did end up going with a swing out door. It will be a fully concealed entry.
thanks a lot.
I like your thinking for the 55 gal drum and something I had planned to incorporate but had wondered how cumbersome the process of bringing a full drum down my basement stairs would be?
The door isn't in yet and we did end up going with a swing out door. It will be a fully concealed entry.
thanks a lot.
I like your thinking for the 55 gal drum and something I had planned to incorporate but had wondered how cumbersome the process of bringing a full drum down my basement stairs would be?
Canibitual
Well-Known Member
you'll keep the drum inside the room, just run a water hose from upstairs when you want to fill it... 1 full drum should just barely water both trays at the same time...
Canibitual
Well-Known Member
you can set the 4x8 tables on bricks... put 1x12's across the bricks, and use a large oil pan to catch the runoff... then just use a pump and hose to pump the runoff back outside...
Usernamewastaken
Well-Known Member
I feel dumb for not thinking of that... Cheers!
Usernamewastaken
Well-Known Member
i have been thinking of building a small platform to hold the containers. It would have a lip to contain run off and the part the containers sit on will have a very slight pitch so that any run off will go to one side. At the end I was going to install a drain for the water to escape into another container.
thoughts?
Canibitual
Well-Known Member
like this?
2x12's as a base, with a slight incline ripped into it...
plywood top
2x6's for sides,
pond liner stappled on last end for rez, (pond liner comes in 5 foot rolls which is perfect for this, just have them cut to length)
top with hole in it at end to drain waste water (use a pump and hose)
pond liner the whole top and cut slits for drain to go into rez
Usernamewastaken
Well-Known Member
Canibitual: exactly what I had envisioned. Thanks for confirming it will not do cause an harm. Rep'