peroxide, aquashield, great white, advanced nutrients... questions
- Thread starter sherriberry
- Start date
fatman7574
New Member
I posted yesterday to over 12 threads Earl in this section of the forum, your dumb ass just happened to post stupid shit in two of them which I posted to. Suck your ego and testostorone in Earl your definitely not important enough to stalk by anyone yet alone me. Dumb asses like you stick out like a sore thumb already they do not need to be stalked. The first thing I do is go to My Rollitup. Today your dumbass is listed twice in My Rollitup list, that is hardly stalking. "My" ego is not so large as to condider you a stalker yet you replied to both of my replies. You really are a dumb ass.
fatman7574
New Member
Go back off in your own jack yard Earl.
fatman7574
New Member
Suck my tap root Earl. The major problem is your an ignorant regurgitator. Why not h just say nothing until you catually learn something rather than just regurgitating things that you don'teven ubnderstand.
I have repeatedly told you and others why I do not post photos of illegal activities on line. I already have one manafacturing felony conviction. I do not plan on taking a added chance of another conviction because of a dumb ass like you wanting to see photos. That felony conviction (at least in my state) eliminates me from obtaining a permit for growing medical marijuana in any amounts for lifeor until the law changes. I very much doubt and drug felon will ever receive permission tolegally grow pot for medical use. We have to many lame caeer politicians erving in congress for that to ever happen. Besides your knees are likely bruised enough already. You should try to just be a real man and stand flat on your bid wide flat feet while admitting you are a dumb ass. <strike that> wrong.
I have repeatedly told you and others why I do not post photos of illegal activities on line. I already have one manafacturing felony conviction. I do not plan on taking a added chance of another conviction because of a dumb ass like you wanting to see photos. That felony conviction (at least in my state) eliminates me from obtaining a permit for growing medical marijuana in any amounts for lifeor until the law changes. I very much doubt and drug felon will ever receive permission tolegally grow pot for medical use. We have to many lame caeer politicians erving in congress for that to ever happen. Besides your knees are likely bruised enough already. You should try to just be a real man and stand flat on your bid wide flat feet while admitting you are a dumb ass. <strike that> wrong.
sherriberry
New Member
everyone keeps saying my temps are too high. I thought i read that 80f was perfect for veg, with high humidity.. no?
i know during bloom to keep temps lower, but veg?
i could easily let my room get colder... but it also drops my humidity quickly when i do, down to 20%
advice?
i know during bloom to keep temps lower, but veg?
i could easily let my room get colder... but it also drops my humidity quickly when i do, down to 20%
advice?
fatman7574
New Member
If your roots aree in standing water a lower temp and high DO from lower temps would be better. If you system is not spraying constantly and your roots are not submerged in low DO water then 80 degrees is fine. A constant spray at a low rate of flow is great I am not sure what you consider thin film hydroponics. Traditonally thin film hydroponics is jsut inert hydropomnincs. an inert meaia is wetted with water borne nutrient so that a continual film of water coats the inert media. This usually means a perforated plate has water flowed on to its os that nany small streanm s of water flows over the median and out the bottom or a spray is over the media whereby many fine stream iare created to wet the media as the water flows over it (a film of water) whereby the water flows out the bottom etc. This should mean very well oxygenated roots and no standing low DO nytrients covering roots so root rot should not be an issue with 80 degree water and high oxygenated water is and constnatly fill all the pore spaces. You only want enough water for a very thin film of water to flow over the media. There should never be so much water flowing as to fill all the spaces between the media. It is basically a trickle filter with plant roots growing in the filter. They are better in general than low pressure tube aero systems as you should never have the roots laying in low DO water as is common with low pressure aero that sprays 24/7 No aero tube system , especially low pressure, should spray the roots 24/7 The majority of thwe water flows over the o top of the roots laying in the bottom of the tubes. this means the roots there are getiing very little dissolved O2 as there is constantly running water flowing over them and roots and very liitle O2 reachs the middle or bottom of that root mass as O2 diffusion is very minimal. In true aero the entire root mass is in air. not 3/4 lying in near stagnant water.
sherriberry
New Member
there is no standing water.
my setup is similar to stinkbuds setup.
just assume i have a PIPE, tilted, with a thin flow of water at the bottom that flows constantly.
The water falls back to the res, so it mixes up... and once every 20 min, sprayers come on, and drench ALL roots everywhere...
but the majority of the root is down in the water film in the pipe all the time.
my setup is similar to stinkbuds setup.
just assume i have a PIPE, tilted, with a thin flow of water at the bottom that flows constantly.
The water falls back to the res, so it mixes up... and once every 20 min, sprayers come on, and drench ALL roots everywhere...
but the majority of the root is down in the water film in the pipe all the time.
sherriberry
New Member
there is no medium... no rocks, no rockwool, nothing.
pipe, water roots, air, sprayers.
now... where should my room temps be?
where should my humidity be?
where should my res temp be?
pipe, water roots, air, sprayers.
now... where should my room temps be?
where should my humidity be?
where should my res temp be?
fatman7574
New Member
The troughs should have a good enough tilt so that the drain completely and as quickly as the water is spraying in. Before your next f grow get some matting like scotch or 3M scrubbing pads etc and throw them in the bottom of the troughs with some silk screen cloth over that. It should provide a channel for flow but keep your roots from laying in water. Some people merely put down a half inch or inch of well draining media down and place silk screen cloth down and fill the gutters up. If you have a good tilt and dontt spray more than needed it should not be needed. If you experimented you would find that even with small flow spray heads of 1 gallon per hour that the amount of spray times should be very small. I would say about 3 second per minute but the spray pattern you are using should work about as well. I think I would 1/4 as long four times as often as a better choice. The best way as far as insuring a long pump life is to use a medium pressure pump http://cgi.ebay.com/Iwaki-Magnet-Pump-Model-MD-30RZT-115NL-Unused_W0QQitemZ230411328055QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Pumps?hash=item35a595da37 (they have been selling these new $300 pumps for about $60 average for about 6 months now as they have a butt load) and use a solenoid and a simple T fitting so that the pump runs 24/7 but the solenoid diverts the water back to the reservoir all but the time that the trough spraying is needed. Aquarium pumps are not really made to be turned on and off as it causes a lot of forces on the impeller and bearings at ever startup. Nearly all aquarium and fountain pumps are designed to run 24/7
The Iwaki pumpuses 90 watts to deliver water at 24 psi not the 2 to 5 psi of most aquarium and fountain pumps.
These misters are very good medium or high pressure pressure fine misting spray heads at 3/4 or 1 gallon per hour. They spray fine droplets not trickles and gurgling spray like most of the cheap ones like used in most aero builds (the cheapy little blue, green or red ones). http://www.dripirrigation.com/index.php?cPath=43&sort=2a&page=3
sherriberry
New Member
great links fatman! thanks
good info too earl, i will get a themometer.
as far as spray times go etc...
right now im just trying to preserve my pump life as you mentioned, so im not turning it on that often... the roots are fine without any spray at all.
further...
the water does not have to be shut off, and roots do not need to be in air as long as water has enough oxygen in it... like dwc systems.
when you look at my setup, and see how much the water tumbles, goes through pvc pipes, spills into the res, and waterfalls from a nozzle into the channle that the roots are in... youd soon realize oxygen is not an issue.
the celenoid is a good idea... i have not played with these yet, but i want to.
the sprayers you linked fatman... can i just drill a hole into pvc and screw them in?
do you get the barbed ones or the screw sprayers?
any idea what size hole to drill?
just so you guys understand, i dont want to confuse you, but im doing something that no one else has done (that i can find)
i have a custom built "table" that has lanes, so it essentially acts like 12 gutters next to eachother, and the table is then tilted long ways, and it is 5 ft long, so the last plants still get oxygen because the whole problem with long nft's is that the water runs out of oxygen after about 6ft of plant roots breathing it in down the gutter.
my table is 4 ft by 5 ft...
however i will be building larger ones... perhaps.
if i dont go with a setup similar to stinkbuds first.
I like the table for veg, because you can put so many plants in a concentrated area.
The sprayers are really only used to oxygenate the water, and to get the plants that dont have roots that touch the nft layer that well.
But, i dont put plants in until they have long long roots.
My setup is humidity rapid rooter plastic domes AND rubbermade tubs for cloning.
All rapid rooters, i peel away rapid rooter, put a neoprene colar on it, and then put it in the stinkbud spray cloner for a few days to let the roots further develop.
Then i have a huge rubbermade tub, that is about 3 or 4 ft long (the big big one)
and i have pvc and sprayers in it. This has nutes at about 300ppm, and 8 t5 ho floros above it. This is a transition tub between clonex and stonger nutes. this holds 100 plants. I have another one of these statiosn set up, so i will have 200 transition spots total.
and 2 50 site tub cloners, and about 4 50 site humidity dome plastic tray cloners.
After the roots are about a foot long or more in the 100 site big tubs, i move the plant to the nft "table".
here the nutes are about 1000ppm, and it has a 1000w cool delux MH with vented hood.
It is not really close to plants, about 2-3 ft.
But this is also where the mums are kept, and they are close to the light because they are taller, so it all works out, small plants arent scorched, and big plants get all they could ever want.
THe 1000 also provides ambient light for all the clone dome platic trays with rapid rooters in them, and i just sit them on the floor all around the table.
So in all, I have 1x 1000w mh, and 1x 8light t5, but you really only need 4 of the 8 lights because these plants get ambient light form the 1000w as well, so having all 8 on scorches the plants so im just turnign on half of them.
Soon to have 2x floro sites and a lot more clone tubs, probably 4x 50 site tubs total...
coolest part about the nft table is it is completely light tight, and water tight... BUT NOT AIR TIGHT AT ALL, so it can breathe, but not grow algea.
the other cool thing about this table is it will hold over 200 plants if they are small enough, and it is all customizable, so as plants grow, you can move them around.
THe lid to the table has the holes already pre drilled, and then i just fill in the empty spots with an empty net pot and neoprene, so its light and spray tight.
from the lid to the floor of the table where the water is, its only about 3-4 inches, so the 2 inch net pots put the roots almost down to the water.
even the water falling back to the res is not exposed to light.
the water NEVER sees light... unless i open the lid.
I am debating building another one of these tables or using stinkbuds fence post technique....
the plants HAVE TO BE SPACED OUT ANYWAY, so theres really no advantage to the table once the plants start to get good sized, and i think stinkbuts setup will be easier to build, clean, and cheaper to purchase.
I would consider using these 80 micron sprayers fatman showed me..
but... for bloom? what about bloom nutes and molassis? will they clog?
good info too earl, i will get a themometer.
as far as spray times go etc...
right now im just trying to preserve my pump life as you mentioned, so im not turning it on that often... the roots are fine without any spray at all.
further...
the water does not have to be shut off, and roots do not need to be in air as long as water has enough oxygen in it... like dwc systems.
when you look at my setup, and see how much the water tumbles, goes through pvc pipes, spills into the res, and waterfalls from a nozzle into the channle that the roots are in... youd soon realize oxygen is not an issue.
the celenoid is a good idea... i have not played with these yet, but i want to.
the sprayers you linked fatman... can i just drill a hole into pvc and screw them in?
do you get the barbed ones or the screw sprayers?
any idea what size hole to drill?
just so you guys understand, i dont want to confuse you, but im doing something that no one else has done (that i can find)
i have a custom built "table" that has lanes, so it essentially acts like 12 gutters next to eachother, and the table is then tilted long ways, and it is 5 ft long, so the last plants still get oxygen because the whole problem with long nft's is that the water runs out of oxygen after about 6ft of plant roots breathing it in down the gutter.
my table is 4 ft by 5 ft...
however i will be building larger ones... perhaps.
if i dont go with a setup similar to stinkbuds first.
I like the table for veg, because you can put so many plants in a concentrated area.
The sprayers are really only used to oxygenate the water, and to get the plants that dont have roots that touch the nft layer that well.
But, i dont put plants in until they have long long roots.
My setup is humidity rapid rooter plastic domes AND rubbermade tubs for cloning.
All rapid rooters, i peel away rapid rooter, put a neoprene colar on it, and then put it in the stinkbud spray cloner for a few days to let the roots further develop.
Then i have a huge rubbermade tub, that is about 3 or 4 ft long (the big big one)
and i have pvc and sprayers in it. This has nutes at about 300ppm, and 8 t5 ho floros above it. This is a transition tub between clonex and stonger nutes. this holds 100 plants. I have another one of these statiosn set up, so i will have 200 transition spots total.
and 2 50 site tub cloners, and about 4 50 site humidity dome plastic tray cloners.
After the roots are about a foot long or more in the 100 site big tubs, i move the plant to the nft "table".
here the nutes are about 1000ppm, and it has a 1000w cool delux MH with vented hood.
It is not really close to plants, about 2-3 ft.
But this is also where the mums are kept, and they are close to the light because they are taller, so it all works out, small plants arent scorched, and big plants get all they could ever want.
THe 1000 also provides ambient light for all the clone dome platic trays with rapid rooters in them, and i just sit them on the floor all around the table.
So in all, I have 1x 1000w mh, and 1x 8light t5, but you really only need 4 of the 8 lights because these plants get ambient light form the 1000w as well, so having all 8 on scorches the plants so im just turnign on half of them.
Soon to have 2x floro sites and a lot more clone tubs, probably 4x 50 site tubs total...
coolest part about the nft table is it is completely light tight, and water tight... BUT NOT AIR TIGHT AT ALL, so it can breathe, but not grow algea.
the other cool thing about this table is it will hold over 200 plants if they are small enough, and it is all customizable, so as plants grow, you can move them around.
THe lid to the table has the holes already pre drilled, and then i just fill in the empty spots with an empty net pot and neoprene, so its light and spray tight.
from the lid to the floor of the table where the water is, its only about 3-4 inches, so the 2 inch net pots put the roots almost down to the water.
even the water falling back to the res is not exposed to light.
the water NEVER sees light... unless i open the lid.
I am debating building another one of these tables or using stinkbuds fence post technique....
the plants HAVE TO BE SPACED OUT ANYWAY, so theres really no advantage to the table once the plants start to get good sized, and i think stinkbuts setup will be easier to build, clean, and cheaper to purchase.
I would consider using these 80 micron sprayers fatman showed me..
but... for bloom? what about bloom nutes and molassis? will they clog?
sherriberry
New Member
ps, no roots in the rez, its impossible for them to get there 
perhaps one day i will photograph my masterpiece
the vertical lanes are created by pvc pipes, that feed the sprayers.
all and all, the table has 50ish red ez clone sprayers.
if i got the 80 micron sprayers, i have a feeling it would be for this veg table, and i would just revamp it with better sprayers.
i have a 1700gph pump feeding these 50ish sprayers btw.
interested in the celenoid stuff and how it would work...
lets go to that area of converstation next
perhaps one day i will photograph my masterpiece
the vertical lanes are created by pvc pipes, that feed the sprayers.
all and all, the table has 50ish red ez clone sprayers.
if i got the 80 micron sprayers, i have a feeling it would be for this veg table, and i would just revamp it with better sprayers.
i have a 1700gph pump feeding these 50ish sprayers btw.
interested in the celenoid stuff and how it would work...
lets go to that area of converstation next
fatman7574
New Member
The solenoid aspect. Plant roots uptake nutrients best when they have large amounts of oxygen available and when they are moist not wet and not submerged. Lets say an aeroponic system withh ALL its roots suspended in air is the best performing pot growing system. This is because pot plants have evolved to grow in a moist airy environment. In nature that is uaually a snady loam. Ie pakistan, India and Afghanistan. Desert sand and some camel dung. Enough jokes. The plants in an aero roots take up less than 1% of there oxygen directly from the nutrient waters dissolved oxygen, the rest comes from the ambient room air surrounding the roots. Pot plats grow best when their roots are just moist, not dripping water or under water. The plants that have the shortest internodal spaces are plants who root mass is neraly all root hairs. Roots hairs are an indication of excellent root development. Root hairs uptake water and nutrients the most efficiently.
Currently the two growing methods that produce the conditions that contribute to this large percentage of hair growth are high pressure aero inchambers and siphon air nozzles in chambers (aeromix). Second to these systems is a NFT growing system with an intermittant spray, followed by an Eb and flow, followed by traditional intermittant flood hydro in an inert media (thin film flood rate than spray), followed by the medium flow aero tube systems, then the bubbleponic, the low pressure constant spray small tube systems and finally the DWC. As can be seen by the running order the par ttern shows that the more air and the smaller amount of excessive wetting of the roots the more hair roots. the more hair roots the better growing performance.
With a solenoid the auqrium and small fountain pumps run as they were designed to be run 24/7. The pumps are small wattage so opertaing cost is still small running 24/7. Maintenance and replacement cots are minimalized when they are run 24/7. Soleni oids while the cost money, greatly incraes the life span of the pumps and decrease the maintenance cots. Using a simple T fitting and return line attached to a timed solenoid als maens the reservoir is very well aerated as the water returned can be directed in a fashion that it cause maximium turbulence at the waters surface. This is for those who insist that reservoirs need high DO. A turbulent water surafce has been scientifically provento incraese the DO of contained water more that the amount of air that can be pumped in at the same production cost. Fact is fact.
To be safest a plastic solenoid valve should be used or second choice a stainless steel solenoid. The higher the pump pressure the smaller the water droplet sizes, and the broader the spray pattern generally. The mistered I supplied a link to produce a mist not a spray when used with a high pressure pump. When used with a medium pressure the droplet sizes are more mixed, but still more of a mist then the sick dribbling of low pressure pump sysyems. With a thin film spraying a fine mist on the mediums surface will mean just a thin film of water flows over the medium. The water should be trickling out not gushing/running. Consider this: in a grow chamber with a 9 square foot surface area with 32 SOG plants, temps in the upper 80's and CO2 the misters that if run constantly only spray 4.5 gallons per hour however they are only spraying one second every minute. This minimal amount of water causes massive hair root development. Plants that in a standard aero medium pressure tube grow that finish budding in 10 weeks at 36 inches tall in the aeromix system finish in 6 weeks at 18 inches height yet produce the same bud yield weight.
Your trough grow can perform almost as well as a high pressure aero by using small droplet spray producing just a thin film of water trickling over the medium intermittantly. The most cost effective way of doing that is with low flow misters and a solenoid valve.
Proof that plastic solenoids can be bought at a good price on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320449408147&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
This valve normally retails for about $225. I have some that have been in use for over 10 years with no maintance required other than installing a new 10 cent O-ring.
An electric acuated ball valve works even better as it puts less stress om the pump impeller as its switching is slower but your spraying times would need to be increased. This is a good valve at a good price: http://cgi.ebay.com/SPEARS-Electro-50-Actuated-Valve-1-2-Inch-235-PSI-115V_W0QQitemZ290379939434QQcmdZViewItemQQptZPneumatic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts?hash=item439bfe3e6a
The same actuator but a large ball valve:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SPEARS-Electro-50-Actuated-Valve-1-Inch-235-PSI-115V_W0QQitemZ230410591872QQcmdZViewItemQQptZPneumatic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts?hash=item35a58a9e80
The actutor valves take about 5 seconds to switch completely from one open to closed. When in between it would pump part of the water volume.
Currently the two growing methods that produce the conditions that contribute to this large percentage of hair growth are high pressure aero inchambers and siphon air nozzles in chambers (aeromix). Second to these systems is a NFT growing system with an intermittant spray, followed by an Eb and flow, followed by traditional intermittant flood hydro in an inert media (thin film flood rate than spray), followed by the medium flow aero tube systems, then the bubbleponic, the low pressure constant spray small tube systems and finally the DWC. As can be seen by the running order the par ttern shows that the more air and the smaller amount of excessive wetting of the roots the more hair roots. the more hair roots the better growing performance.
With a solenoid the auqrium and small fountain pumps run as they were designed to be run 24/7. The pumps are small wattage so opertaing cost is still small running 24/7. Maintenance and replacement cots are minimalized when they are run 24/7. Soleni oids while the cost money, greatly incraes the life span of the pumps and decrease the maintenance cots. Using a simple T fitting and return line attached to a timed solenoid als maens the reservoir is very well aerated as the water returned can be directed in a fashion that it cause maximium turbulence at the waters surface. This is for those who insist that reservoirs need high DO. A turbulent water surafce has been scientifically provento incraese the DO of contained water more that the amount of air that can be pumped in at the same production cost. Fact is fact.
To be safest a plastic solenoid valve should be used or second choice a stainless steel solenoid. The higher the pump pressure the smaller the water droplet sizes, and the broader the spray pattern generally. The mistered I supplied a link to produce a mist not a spray when used with a high pressure pump. When used with a medium pressure the droplet sizes are more mixed, but still more of a mist then the sick dribbling of low pressure pump sysyems. With a thin film spraying a fine mist on the mediums surface will mean just a thin film of water flows over the medium. The water should be trickling out not gushing/running. Consider this: in a grow chamber with a 9 square foot surface area with 32 SOG plants, temps in the upper 80's and CO2 the misters that if run constantly only spray 4.5 gallons per hour however they are only spraying one second every minute. This minimal amount of water causes massive hair root development. Plants that in a standard aero medium pressure tube grow that finish budding in 10 weeks at 36 inches tall in the aeromix system finish in 6 weeks at 18 inches height yet produce the same bud yield weight.
Your trough grow can perform almost as well as a high pressure aero by using small droplet spray producing just a thin film of water trickling over the medium intermittantly. The most cost effective way of doing that is with low flow misters and a solenoid valve.
Proof that plastic solenoids can be bought at a good price on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320449408147&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
This valve normally retails for about $225. I have some that have been in use for over 10 years with no maintance required other than installing a new 10 cent O-ring.
An electric acuated ball valve works even better as it puts less stress om the pump impeller as its switching is slower but your spraying times would need to be increased. This is a good valve at a good price: http://cgi.ebay.com/SPEARS-Electro-50-Actuated-Valve-1-2-Inch-235-PSI-115V_W0QQitemZ290379939434QQcmdZViewItemQQptZPneumatic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts?hash=item439bfe3e6a
The same actuator but a large ball valve:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SPEARS-Electro-50-Actuated-Valve-1-Inch-235-PSI-115V_W0QQitemZ230410591872QQcmdZViewItemQQptZPneumatic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts?hash=item35a58a9e80
The actutor valves take about 5 seconds to switch completely from one open to closed. When in between it would pump part of the water volume.
sherriberry
New Member
thanks for the celenoid links, but the top one ended and i cant see the item anymore.
anyway, about ALL roots being in air... might want to check out this thread first
http://www.thcfarmer.com/forums/f131/42-pound-10-plant-tree-grow-14877/
im currently brainstorming on how i can keep my veg table, but do something similar to this guys setup on a smaller scale and for smaller plants.
Ill keep you posted if i figure anything out.
Water can be as deep as you want, and roots be in it... AS LONG AS ITS KEPT MOVING AT HIGH SPEEDS
one can say my table is not working...
but im watching my plants grow like no other, and i have more than just a thin film on the bottom of the table...
the water is kept moving, and i keep my res small so the water all gets a chance to recirculate often... keeping it airated.
anyway, about ALL roots being in air... might want to check out this thread first
http://www.thcfarmer.com/forums/f131/42-pound-10-plant-tree-grow-14877/
im currently brainstorming on how i can keep my veg table, but do something similar to this guys setup on a smaller scale and for smaller plants.
Ill keep you posted if i figure anything out.
Water can be as deep as you want, and roots be in it... AS LONG AS ITS KEPT MOVING AT HIGH SPEEDS
one can say my table is not working...
but im watching my plants grow like no other, and i have more than just a thin film on the bottom of the table...
the water is kept moving, and i keep my res small so the water all gets a chance to recirculate often... keeping it airated.
wildcatsweetart
Active Member
Thought Id throw two cents in.....
DIY chiller.... great plan,
http://www.420magazine.com/forums/hydroponic-gardening/95048-diy-ghetto-fab-chiller-under-20-a.html
Grab a bubbler rod from the aquarium store...... H202 adds oxygen as well. Less is more my friend. Easier to add than take away.
DIY chiller.... great plan,
http://www.420magazine.com/forums/hydroponic-gardening/95048-diy-ghetto-fab-chiller-under-20-a.html
Grab a bubbler rod from the aquarium store...... H202 adds oxygen as well. Less is more my friend. Easier to add than take away.
fatman7574
New Member
Sorry about the solenoid post. I bought the solenoid but I thouht it would still post as I had not paid for it yet. If you have problems finding a solenoid at a fair price just PM me.
O2 movement (diffusion) through water and through standing roots is very, very minimal (about 10 mm per hour<4/10 inch per hour>). NFT is based upon a very thin film of water just as is aeroponics. With aeroponics the water is sprayed on hopefully the whole root mass and there is nothing in the very small amount in the bottom of the tubes. If an aero system has roots in the water then that part of the grow is then DWC or thin NFT. Usually DWC, that is why there are many people with aero who have root rot problems. If there is only a very thin layer of roots in the bottom of the aero tubes with a very thin layer of water 1/10 inch or less then that part of the aero system is NFT. Small y tube aero tubes are inherently prone to root rot. Add low pressure continous spray of huge amounts of water as is typiv acl and the odds of root rot go up even more. run lare amounts of water through a NFT and you also greatly increase cances of having root rot. Water bviosly hold less oxygen then air. Oxygen diffuses through water very slowly. That is why water that is standing still quickly becomes devoid of oxygen. Oxyegen dissuses almost not at all through roots lying a in a thick mat soaked with water or under water in a channel. Most of the water simply runs on top of the root mass rather than through the roots pore spaces. Water always chooses the path of least resistance.
O2 movement (diffusion) through water and through standing roots is very, very minimal (about 10 mm per hour<4/10 inch per hour>). NFT is based upon a very thin film of water just as is aeroponics. With aeroponics the water is sprayed on hopefully the whole root mass and there is nothing in the very small amount in the bottom of the tubes. If an aero system has roots in the water then that part of the grow is then DWC or thin NFT. Usually DWC, that is why there are many people with aero who have root rot problems. If there is only a very thin layer of roots in the bottom of the aero tubes with a very thin layer of water 1/10 inch or less then that part of the aero system is NFT. Small y tube aero tubes are inherently prone to root rot. Add low pressure continous spray of huge amounts of water as is typiv acl and the odds of root rot go up even more. run lare amounts of water through a NFT and you also greatly increase cances of having root rot. Water bviosly hold less oxygen then air. Oxygen diffuses through water very slowly. That is why water that is standing still quickly becomes devoid of oxygen. Oxyegen dissuses almost not at all through roots lying a in a thick mat soaked with water or under water in a channel. Most of the water simply runs on top of the root mass rather than through the roots pore spaces. Water always chooses the path of least resistance.