PH vs EC/PPM interaction

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youngc

Member
Finally got hold of a second hand bluelab truncheon meter (big sucker).
When I tested my AG it was off the chart.
I dumped the rez, and filled back up with tap water that is bit high on alkaline side, 6.7-6.8. Although the EC was very low, as I started to try and bring the PH down, the EC shoots up from below 1 to about 2.0 2.2, adding nutrients this goes up again.
I know this question has been asked before, can anyone share a chart for a typical AG grow, 1 lowryder AK47 auto, what the PH/EC should be overtime. It's a big ask, I just need to better understand how to get the ideal growing soloution for my plant, or close enough to it.
I'm looking at also investing in a RO undersink unit, gonna try find a cheap one off ebay.
Also what is the best product to get your PH down without it raising the EC..it's all too hard :-(
Ta
 
K21701

K21701

Active Member
What are you using to bring the ph down? Also bring ph down before dumping in reservoir. I use GH PH Down to lower ph. I monitor PPM's and PH daily...my meter does not measure EC's. I keep my ph between 5.5 and 5.8. PPM level depends on your plants stage...mine are flowering so my totals ppm's are 1000-1200. Pictures are 42 days from seed and they are AutoBerry's.
IMG_0023.JPGIMG_0028.JPG
 
H

HSA

Well-Known Member
Youngc: the best you can expect is to control your pH for twenty four hours if you're lucky. The small capacity of our A/G reservoir means drastic changes in pH almost immediately when our plants start taking up their nutrients.

I was taught to check pH daily and adjust if necessary. In five years I can't recall a day where I didn't have to readjust it, usually down, and change your nutes weekly. Also I wouldn't use tap water. I used distilled water for a long time but recently I found a water purification system at a local supermarket that claims to be RO'd as well as filtered. For the last few months it's worked well.
 
L

larry stone

Member
Let me explain the science of the ph battle and how you can live within the limitations of high ph tap or well water.

When you have 7.0 ph water and you use GH ph down you are adding ammonium sulfate, citric acid, urea phosphate. Now two of those above chemicals are pretty much pure nitrogen.

So if you are playing the ph game every day you adding 50-100 ppm of N on a daily basis which after seven days makes a vessel full of nasty nitrates.

When you change your water just add only 5 grams (with cfl lighting) of GH maxibloom 5-15-14 per gallon. Now just add plain water ph down and H2O2 daily and change water every seven days.

On day one I want my ppm to be 600 and at day seven I want it to be under 1000.

I am not using a store bought system but a DIY low pressure aero/dwc (res temp is 60f) under 300 watts of cfls.
 
K21701

K21701

Active Member
larry stone said:
Let me explain the science of the ph battle and how you can live within the limitations of high ph tap or well water.

When you have 7.0 ph water and you use GH ph down you are adding ammonium sulfate, citric acid, urea phosphate. Now two of those above chemicals are pretty much pure nitrogen.

So if you are playing the ph game every day you adding 50-100 ppm of N on a daily basis which after seven days makes a vessel full of nasty nitrates.

When you change your water just add only 5 grams (with cfl lighting) of GH maxibloom 5-15-14 per gallon. Now just add plain water ph down and H2O2 daily and change water every seven days.

On day one I want my ppm to be 600 and at day seven I want it to be under 1000.

I am not using a store bought system but a DIY low pressure aero/dwc (res temp is 60f) under 300 watts of cfls.
Click to expand...
Just a question for you...If your ppm are 600 on day one and under 1000 right before a water change and all you are adding is H2O2 and ph down to top off and your plants are eating nutrients, how are your ppm's higher at the end then at the beginning?
 
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