Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the thread!
Not enough N, typical leaf chlorosis. You can't follow a chart or recommendations. No two gardens or plants are the same.
What's the NPK value of the food?
Plant Moisture Stress - Symptoms and Solutions
- Thread starter Uncle Ben
- Start date
Not enough N, typical leaf chlorosis. You can't follow a chart or recommendations. No two gardens or plants are the same.
What's the NPK value of the food?
FoolBloom
Active Member
Hey uncle ben, first ill say that this single thread has helped me more than anything else I've found on riu(although I like all of riu). Thanks for your time and contributions here. I'm sorry if this has been covered on here before, but I haven't made it all the way through yet. I have recently had a powdery mold peroblem, I am having a bit of a humidity problem where my humidity was spiking as high as 80% during the light off hours. I consequently had a spider mite infestation that I was fighting off with a neem oil soap mix spray. The mites are under control and now I notice powder mold starting on a couple leafs here and there on several plants and one plant that had several lower branches that looked as though they had been swirled in a cotton candy maker. I went out today and bought a sulfur burner. Upon some researching I found a couple of sites that said not to burn within 30 days of any oil based applications or I have risk of burn! I last sprayed with the neem mix 3 days ago and I am currently in week 6 of flowering and only have 2 to 3 weeks left. I clipped away all affected areas that I found with the mold, but I know the room is now covered in spores. Should I risk running this burner? I'm now pretty much tapped for funsds after my recent purchase. I am getting the rh closer to ideal(my exhaust wasn't turning on at all during dark, now running) please help. I'm freaking out, I've been growing for a year and this is my first mold and rh disaster.
Thanks in advance.
Foolbloom
Thanks in advance.
Foolbloom
FoolBloom
Active Member
I've dealt with the mites the whole year I've been growing, but this is deff powder mold. At least on the leaves. The cotton candy branches didn't look anything like the mite webs I've seen in the past either. Can I run the burner. From what I've read the sulfur burner is a pretty effective tool, just not sure if I should risk it this crop or use it for later crops. Do you have any experience with these burners? My growshop owner also recomended it.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
I have no experience with those burners.
FoolBloom
Active Member
Well ill be the test dummy and let you know if I burn em bad. Hate to risk it but I don't want to lose a crop to mold. I am having a real problem with humidity, and I'm about a month out from affording my vented hoods and updated exhaust system. Thanks for the responses ub. I'm gonna monitor my mold and wait a couple more days to burn to lower my burn risk. Thanks again.
HookdOnChronics
Well-Known Member
Hey there UB. First off I gotta say, I love all your post's! And believe you are a very wise gardener! I can't stand all the haters that talk shit about what you post, but then never post anything helpfull anyways! That pushed my buttons!.. But I have been reading your posts, and following what you have to say.
Anyways I just got back from a 3 day ski trip. Well my roomate's brother was at my place while I wasn't, long story short, the closet door got closed, my room door got closed, and I came home to the grow room being 98 degrees for the past 2 days and my plant drooping to the max with hard core leaf curling. I gave her some water last night, and she's purked back up. She still has very curled leaves and some yellowing. Looks just horrible compared to when I left.
I'm 44 days into flower. She's planted in MG potting mix/perlite (won't use again). 264W CFL's. 82 degrees. Using the MG Bloom Ferts, (Used the MG all purpose for veg) Water whenever the pot is light when lifted.
Is there anything that I can do to help her out?
I was actually curious about something you posted on the first page under the "underwatering" part, you said "If severe, a little surfactant (liquid Ivory dish soap) added to the drench will help return the organics back to a normal moisture retentive state. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water." Is this just for organic growers?
I'd appreciate anything you have to say!
-Hookd
Anyways I just got back from a 3 day ski trip. Well my roomate's brother was at my place while I wasn't, long story short, the closet door got closed, my room door got closed, and I came home to the grow room being 98 degrees for the past 2 days and my plant drooping to the max with hard core leaf curling. I gave her some water last night, and she's purked back up. She still has very curled leaves and some yellowing. Looks just horrible compared to when I left.
I'm 44 days into flower. She's planted in MG potting mix/perlite (won't use again). 264W CFL's. 82 degrees. Using the MG Bloom Ferts, (Used the MG all purpose for veg) Water whenever the pot is light when lifted.
Is there anything that I can do to help her out?
I was actually curious about something you posted on the first page under the "underwatering" part, you said "If severe, a little surfactant (liquid Ivory dish soap) added to the drench will help return the organics back to a normal moisture retentive state. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water." Is this just for organic growers?
I'd appreciate anything you have to say!
-Hookd
hi, please could anyone help in diagosing my leaf problem. the set up is a 250w envirolight dcw/bubbleponics wardrobe grow, 20L ph'd hilltop spring water with 1/4 nutes being Canna Aqua vega A+B plus Rhizotonic. the strain is Big Buddha blue cheese on about week 3. i have another plant in the same space that is pretty much fine it just has a few very slight brown marks. here's some pics. cheers.
Room
Big Buddha blue cheese.
The leaves are very dry and will crumble
they're quite nasty i know but i dont get why this ones so bad compared to the cheese? it has had the same treatment as the cheese apart from the blue cheese seedling got a bit stretched cos i didn't have my room set up in time, also notice purple leaf stems i originaly put it down to night time temps being low??
big buddha Cheese
they are both branching out too though they are only 3 n a bit inches tall is that norm? bonus?
Thanks for reading.
Room
Big Buddha blue cheese.
The leaves are very dry and will crumble
they're quite nasty i know but i dont get why this ones so bad compared to the cheese? it has had the same treatment as the cheese apart from the blue cheese seedling got a bit stretched cos i didn't have my room set up in time, also notice purple leaf stems i originaly put it down to night time temps being low??
big buddha Cheese
they are both branching out too though they are only 3 n a bit inches tall is that norm? bonus?
Thanks for reading.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Won't help the plant but it might make you feel better - kick your roommate brother's ass.
Yeah, water from the bottom up and drench with rainwater from the top once the soil has regained it's moisture holding ability, it that was a problem to begin with. Sounds like it got over heated.
I'd blame on the canna nutes and/or the way you're applying it. In general, you can gauge the health of a plant by looking at the new growth - it should be equal or bigger than the previous growth.
SIRE
Well-Known Member
whats going on Unc? well i took ur advice and did some reading and understanding how plants in general works. well after reading the info going to the hydro store and alot of people on here u get confused again like for instance i read on here to start feeding ur plants when there 6" some say in 0ne week(biobizz's lable),and some say in 3 weeks help me out and have anyone used biobizz products?
HookdOnChronics
Well-Known Member
Won't help the plant but it might make you feel better - kick your roommate brother's ass.
Yeah, water from the bottom up and drench with rainwater from the top once the soil has regained it's moisture holding ability, it that was a problem to begin with. Sounds like it got over heated.
QUOTE]
That is exactly what happened... Thanks for the response UB. You the man! And if that fucker wasn't equal to 2 of me, I would kick his ass!..
I got some seeds from him for the fuck up... I'm still pissed tho!
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
It depends on whether or not your medium has any nutes in it. If there are no nutes, you can introduce them as early as day 4 or 5 from seed, albeit in minor doses like 15-20%.
If it has nutes in it, you typically will wait till 3 weeks are up.
Ive used Bio-bizz, and you'll need to use their Fish mix plus Bio-Grow if the medium has no or low levels of nutes.
SIRE
Well-Known Member
thanks for responding. well yeah i have the biobizz grow the fish mix and the alg- a- mic. the medium im using is pro mix bx. it has peatmoss 75%-85%, perlite, mycorise pro, vermiculite, dolomitic and calcitic limestone and wetting agent. so does this mean i can start now? the seedlings r 7 days from being put in the soil.
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
Pro-mix is pretty nutrient light, so Id start your plants off with just the Bio-Grow/Alg-A-Mic for now. Bio-Grow is pretty mild stuff. 1-2ml per liter until a couple weeks old, then Id introduce the Fishmix to their feeding.
Now are the seedlings 7 days since breaking the soil..or just 7 days since put into the soil?
Also regarding promix, people often amend it with compost or earth worm castings, and/or organic amendments like bone meal/blood meal/alfalfa meal, etc, etc. Compost/EWC will aid in the digestion of your Bio-Bizz products from the extra microbes. You may want to try that out when you up-pot later on.
SIRE
Well-Known Member
the seedlings 7 days from being put in tha soil. about 4 days since breaking soil. so u say introduce the alg a mic mix (by the way whats the benifits of this?) and bio grow now? and when do u introduce the fishmix?
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
Id give em day 5. Or if you feel more comfortable you can go day 7. I know it seems weird to give seedlings nutes, but they do benefit from it in the right dosage. I wish I had bookmarked a thread that was pretty interesting. A guy did 20 seedlings in Rapid Rooters(composted tree bark), 10 in MG Organic Soil, and 10 in Fox Farms Ocean Forest. They got water for the first 7 days, and at day 7 the MG, and FFOF seedlings were 1.5-2x as large as the rapid rooter ones.
Alg-A-Mic has micros, trace elements and a little macros, but the real benefit is supposed to be from the plant growth hormones extracted from the kelp. Do they really do what is said? I have no clue. You can do some googling about kelp and plant hormones. Lots out there to read.
Go ahead and introduce Fish Mix at 2 weeks old or so. They dont need alot of nutes now, and it right now isn't necessary. Wait till they're a bit bigger and demanding more food.
SIRE
Well-Known Member
with the risk of asking a foolish question when u say 7 days r u referring to 7 days from breaking soil? and do i put the alg a mic and biogrow in the same bottle?
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
7 days since breaking soil.
Its okay to mix bio-grow and alg-a-mic together when preparing feed.
SIRE
Well-Known Member
thanks bro. what does the fish mix do? and when do people put worm castings and the other stuff u referred to in the promix?