Plant Therapy DIY home recipe

mudballs

Well-Known Member
When you change the value in E1 to how much you want to make it does not update the Sodium Citrate amount. You need to change it as per below:

Current =128*(C13/100)
Should be =E1*(128*(C13/100))

Cheers
Did i really goof on one cell? I'm only human.
 

klx

Well-Known Member
v2.0
*Fixed cell formula error
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eCOnR23YK1WBp1i-8l2NBM43ADuBeJtj7F3_MjFubFM/edit?usp=sharing
p.s. this is safe to spray in flower, wont burn pistils
I made some yesterday but the PH of my mixed solution is only 6.0. I wonder why its so much lower than yours?

I used Sunflower Oil instead of Soy oil and made some Sodium Citrate and used it as per the recipe.

The starting PH of my water is 5.5 as it's UV filtered rain water.
 

mudballs

Well-Known Member
I made some yesterday but the PH of my mixed solution is only 6.0. I wonder why its so much lower than yours?

I used Sunflower Oil instead of Soy oil and made some Sodium Citrate and used it as per the recipe.

The starting PH of my water is 5.5 as it's UV filtered rain water.
Soybean Oil — Soybean oil is low in saturated fat and high in unsaturated fats. ... Sunflower Oil — Sunflower oil is predominantly made up of polyunsaturated fats

this is chemistry beyond my paygrade, idk exactly why you'd have a drastically different pH but i would think your recipe will still work.
 
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klx

Well-Known Member
Soybean Oil — Soybean oil is low in saturated fat and high in unsaturated fats. ... Sunflower Oil — Sunflower oil is predominantly made up of polyunsaturated fats

this is chemistry beyond my paygrade, idk exactly why you'd have a drastically different pH but i would think your recipe will still work.
Thanks yeah I am not sure either. I had a look at the PH of all the ingredients and they are mostly neutral or acidic so not sure how to get it high enough to have an effect on mould.

I sprayed some surplus plants yesterday and there were no ill effects so will keep spraying them to see how it goes.

Cheers
 

mudballs

Well-Known Member
Thanks yeah I am not sure either. I had a look at the PH of all the ingredients and they are mostly neutral or acidic so not sure how to get it high enough to have an effect on mould.

I sprayed some surplus plants yesterday and there were no ill effects so will keep spraying them to see how it goes.

Cheers
The high pH is just a 'primary inhibitor' ur still jacking the environment up so much upon contact it wont grow.
 
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gkay723

Active Member
Do you spray at lights out? Will this burn for spraying when lights turn on?

Thanks for the recipe. Been using it at lights off with great success.
 

mudballs

Well-Known Member
Do you spray at lights out? Will this burn for spraying when lights turn on?

Thanks for the recipe. Been using it at lights off with great success.
mostly i will spray at dusk.
I don't have lights on when i grow outdoors but it flash dries incredibly fast so yes there are times in the morning i will spray.
 

klx

Well-Known Member
After a few weeks of using this spray my results are pretty good. I sprayed some little outdoor plants I had in pots to make seeds. When there were no ill effects I used it on my indoor plants and went about my life. 2 weeks later was checking out my outdoor seed mums and noticed some white fly. Sprayed the plants, then waited a few days and sprayed again. Seems to work well against white fly.

Indoors no pests not even any fungus gnats so I am happy so far.

Thanks a lot @mudballs for the recipe cheers mate

20211227_185915.jpg20211227_185841.jpg
 

nailbag

Active Member
+1 on this recipe working!!

I used normal isopropyl alochol @ 99 % and it has worked great!! Also i went to the Asian supermarket and read a couple of the vegetable oils on the shelf - one of them said soy bean oil so bought that for a couple bucks
 

SlumVill

Active Member
wonderful contribution to my thread, gee thanx for walking through my door, raising your nose, and proclaiming what you do.

edit:i can't edit original post anymore, the ISO alcohol used should be the 70% variant
How do you know its the 70% ISO alcohol? I accidently just used the 91% so im wondering if I have to go back and dilute to get the alcohol ratio correct.

Please let me know!

thanks again for the idea to make this recipe
 

mudballs

Well-Known Member
How do you know its the 70% ISO alcohol? I accidently just used the 91% so im wondering if I have to go back and dilute to get the alcohol ratio correct.

Please let me know!

thanks again for the idea to make this recipe
Shit...good question i have to come back and answer...no need to dilute because you're using a concentrate added to solution...right? So no, that small increase in percentage of alcohol in the concentrate will not turn you're final mix solution into a plant endangering fluid.
 

Tvanmunhen

Well-Known Member
Shit...good question i have to come back and answer...no need to dilute because you're using a concentrate added to solution...right? So no, that small increase in percentage of alcohol in the concentrate will not turn you're final mix solution into a plant endangering fluid.
Hello mud! Hope you are well chilling on your pot bench and jamming to cool tunes!
 

SlumVill

Active Member
Shit...good question i have to come back and answer...no need to dilute because you're using a concentrate added to solution...right? So no, that small increase in percentage of alcohol in the concentrate will not turn you're final mix solution into a plant endangering fluid.
Actually dude... I think youre right. I went and smelled my lost coast planet therapy bottle which has like 20% left and it smells like less alcohol than the mix I just made with the 91% alcohol. You're right that it possibly wont damage the plant but I think the higher alcohol % will make the mix evaporate faster than intended. (it would be nice for the pesticide to linger a little longer on the leaves so it can do more damage to any insects or mildew)

On the Lost Coast website linked here: https://www.lostcoastplanttherapy.com/pages/ingredients

They mention this:
Isopropyl Alcohol
is cosmetic grade (safe for skin). Isopropyl alcohol dehydrates insects rapidly and helps evaporate diluted product from plants safely without leaving harmful residue or burning

I am going to dilute my mixture to get the solution to drop to 70% ISO alochol. (FYI, for anyone who messed up like me, that means you have to add more of the other ingredients to compensate for added water)
 

mudballs

Well-Known Member
As you wish...my intuition says the ppm increase in the final solution is probably statistically insignificant to plant tissue. Im more worried about initial damage more than residual power. You're well and trully jacking that environment up for bacteria. a caveat to anyone in this situation but cant reverse course (guerrilla grower) then just increase the span of time between applications.
 

SlumVill

Active Member
As you wish...my intuition says the ppm increase in the final solution is probably statistically insignificant to plant tissue. Im more worried about initial damage more than residual power. You're well and trully jacking that environment up for bacteria. a caveat to anyone in this situation but cant reverse course (guerrilla grower) then just increase the span of time between applications.
70% alcohol works better for bacteria and viruses too.

now, im currently evaluating the emulsion of what I made here vs lost coast planet. I poured about 30ml of lost coast to watch it side by side with what was made and will see if it separates/settles the same or not. I will update once I come to a conclusion
 
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SlumVill

Active Member
Just wanted to say amazing job @mudballs.
Here I have confirmed the PH of this mix vs Lost Coast Planet Therapy. Very close. Only 0.2 ph off which to me is negligible and due to my measurement devices where I guesstimated decimals.
61ABA22D-9C23-4630-809A-BE5953ED762C.jpeg6D5BC8DF-E343-4B8A-98BD-2C68F1DE7FBD.jpeg

and here is Lost Coast after it has settled. Both the DIY and original react the EXACT same way.
81D1E8C0-5953-46DA-9ABC-F7E0A0AF6C90.jpeg
 
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