Snoopy36
Well-Known Member
Makes sense!
Please help!! AC broke down 1 week before harvest!!
- Thread starter Snoopy36
- Start date
Doomhammer69
Well-Known Member
If this happend to me, the first thing I would do is turn the lights off, except 1 or 2
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
Not sure but did op say how big the lights were? And why does she need a dehum without knowing anything about her room or setup? Think a bit more info would be needed to suggest sizing of equipment, just sayin. And even at 10000 watts that's 34-35000 btu's so 48000 btu's has that covered but if they are in fact 1000's (which if stated, i missed), it also sounds like it's zoned somehow. Again it would be hard to recommend anything without more details I think. She made it this far lol
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
You could maybe get away with using the AC to dehum by slowing the blower down and using a coil freeze stat. It will over cool a bit but I actually like cooler lights off temps, but that's just me
. Dehum's are ok if the heat is needed but if not there's lots you can do with the AC as well that can accomplish the same humidity levels.bryan oconner
Well-Known Member
get some paper plates fan them lmao turn off some lights vent it
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
Ya in hindsite she probably gets it
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Odin*
Well-Known Member
"Customers like me", come on Budley.you are joking about the 2 minute thing right lol, I have customers like you lol. If the humidity is high it may take a bit
Dead serious. Lights off, a large AC shouldn't have any problem dropping temps from high 80's/low 90's in a matter of minutes. Lights on (12x1K), a good 5 ton (410A) will drop it from 79/80 to 68 in about 5 minutes.
Odin*
Well-Known Member
I'm assuming that they are 1k's based on the bulbs, their distance from the floor, and the size of the plants. Humidity will rise when the lights are out. Large fluctuations in humidity contribute to PM.
A lot can be gauged from what she has said and the pics.
She did make it this far, only to have the AC fail and plants cooked. AC can't handle the room. I suggest the obvious, get shot down. It's all good.
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
Not shooting you down but just thinking there is not a whole lot of info to go onI'm assuming that they are 1k's based on the bulbs, their distance from the floor, and the size of the plants. Humidity will rise when the lights are out. Large fluctuations in humidity contribute to PM.
A lot can be gauged from what she has said and the pics.
She did make it this far, only to have the AC fail and plants cooked. AC can't handle the room. I suggest the obvious, get shot down. It's all good.
. And not at all obvious lol.
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
Ok first lets "assume" that what's being said is actually happening. She is able to maintain 70 lights on, good so far right? Why a bigger unit? Perhaps 70 isn't good? Second the room was at 115 so she is bringing the temp down to again we assume 70. That's 45 delta t in a couple of minutes, and if not there's an issue? That was the reason for the "customer" statement and if you would like I could actually figure out the time it would take approximately but I don't feel like it really lol. Bigger is not better with AC"Customers like me", come on Budley.
Dead serious. Lights off, a large AC shouldn't have any problem dropping temps from high 80's/low 90's in a matter of minutes. Lights on (12x1K), a good 5 ton (410A) will drop it from 79/80 to 68 in about 5 minutes.
. Oh and 410a has very little advantage over 22 btw. If you need any help sizing your next unit look me up, I'll do a quick heat gain for ya lol.Edit: design temp for sizing is based on 75 for most apps.
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
Have a look at this link http://www.ideal-air.com/resources/btu-calculator.aspxI'm assuming that they are 1k's based on the bulbs, their distance from the floor, and the size of the plants. Humidity will rise when the lights are out. Large fluctuations in humidity contribute to PM.
A lot can be gauged from what she has said and the pics.
She did make it this far, only to have the AC fail and plants cooked. AC can't handle the room. I suggest the obvious, get shot down. It's all good.
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
I do agree with red though, ducting the lights would be a relatively cheap huge cost saving thing.
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
I really hope that $9000 was duct and air handler with a bad ass zone system
Snoopy36
Well-Known Member
The green room was just moved from veg like 2 weeks ago I vegged them like 5 months. The other room is the one ready for harvest next week. You can see the ac running from one room to the other and see all of the lights in question. And the ballast and electrical work there too. (Yes, I didn't lollipop in one room, was too lazy and then it was too late!)
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Snoopy36
Well-Known Member
The humidity levels get high here. I set it to 40 and it fills up often. Moreso when I feed or spray. It's a 2 gallon dehu. On average I empty it twice a dayYou could maybe get away with using the AC to dehum by slowing the blower down and using a coil freeze stat. It will over cool a bit but I actually like cooler lights off temps, but that's just me
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
Very nice set up!
Odin*
Well-Known Member
The calculator is useless. Doesn't ask about ducting/ventilation (lights), insulation, external temps, ceiling height, subroom housing ballasts having/lacking it's own insulation/ventilation and proximity, and a "bagillion" other variables.
It all boils down to this, a 4 ton will not properly cool a 10 light room (if 1k a piece) without additional measures in place (e.g.; ducting and complementary cfpm blowers), or extreme external influence (e.g.; it's snowing outside and the room is being cooled due to poor insulation, or internal/external air exchange). It just won't.
The redoubt of 115*F could be inaccurate. The thermostat may have a maximum temp display (i.e.; 115*F). IMHO, it was much hotter than 115.
Regarding 410A VS R22 efficiency/cooling capability, we'll have to agree to disagree. 410a has significant advantages over R22. "Night and day" these two. "Google it" (RIU inside joke now). That being said, newer setup, more than likely 410a, unless HVAC guy is moving discounted R22 units for bigger profit as well as charging an arm and a leg for R22 (liquid gold). She did say 9 G's (ouch).
Ok first lets "assume" that what's being said is actually happening. She is able to maintain 70 lights on, good so far right? Why a bigger unit? Perhaps 70 isn't good? Bigger is not better with AC
No, but you don't want your AC constantly fighting your lights either. Have you ever run a ductless 10k+ room? It's tough to "beat the heat".
I'm just trying to help out, hate to see someone lose their crop to equipment failure. Also, not trying to be "negative" (@Snoopy36 ), but Unicorns don't always shit Rainbows.
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
Well ok then lol. As for googling, that's for people that need to, I actually have been a refrigeration mechanic for 30 years and teach now part time but that in it self means shit. Let's just agree to disagree LOL. Just a few things to ponder though, why the push for two stage and modulating AC? The two stage are designed to run basically on a continuos basis, this provides for better humidity control and effeincy. I get this every day from people calling and complaining their AC is not shutting off. First thing to ask is is it keeping temp (at design temps), if yes then it's working perfectly as it's designed. A fast cycle rate (oversized) is a really bad thing btw. The removal of latent heat is half the battle and long run times are required to do this. Also being able to keep a room at a constant 70 is not fighting lights IMO. I'm not going to argue about the best way to control the climate in a room, I do actually know lots lol. My whole point was telling her she had an inadequate system based on assumption which is again IMO not a great thing to do but that's it just thought perhaps maybe you could have asked a few more questions. And yes 9 grand does seem high unless there are some zoning and perhaps 2 stage system which I doubt and all ducting, it's reasonable at that. I do think that things could have been done and suggested that would have made the system much better though. Humidity control being one.
The calculator is useless. Doesn't ask about ducting/ventilation (lights), insulation, external temps, ceiling height, subroom housing ballasts having/lacking it's own insulation/ventilation and proximity, and a "bagillion" other variables.
It all boils down to this, a 4 ton will not properly cool a 10 light room (if 1k a piece) without additional measures in place (e.g.; ducting and complementary cfpm blowers), or extreme external influence (e.g.; it's snowing outside and the room is being cooled due to poor insulation, or internal/external air exchange). It just won't.
The redoubt of 115*F could be inaccurate. The thermostat may have a maximum temp display (i.e.; 115*F). IMHO, it was much hotter than 115.
Regarding 410A VS R22 efficiency/cooling capability, we'll have to agree to disagree. 410a has significant advantages over R22. "Night and day" these two. "Google it" (RIU inside joke now). That being said, newer setup, more than likely 410a, unless HVAC guy is moving discounted R22 units for bigger profit as well as charging an arm and a leg for R22 (liquid gold). She did say 9 G's (ouch).
No, but you don't want your AC constantly fighting your lights either. Have you ever run a ductless 10k+ room? It's tough to "beat the heat".
I'm just trying to help out, hate to see someone lose their crop to equipment failure. Also, not trying to be "negative" (@Snoopy36 ), but Unicorns don't always shit Rainbows.
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
Why are you using 10 lights for 10 plants? Not HID, I hope. Overkill.
Snoopy36
Well-Known Member
The thing is it's not always fighting the lights. That's why I mentioned when the lights are off in one room, ac does not even turn on. I set the temp to 70 and it turns on if the temp gets hotter than 70 automatically. Majority of the time it stays off so the 70 temp is maintaining itself. To be honest the numbers your throwing at me is all electrical jargon and it's not even registering lol. An electrician friend planned and built the room for me he professionally builds grow rooms for people.
The calculator is useless. Doesn't ask about ducting/ventilation (lights), insulation, external temps, ceiling height, subroom housing ballasts having/lacking it's own insulation/ventilation and proximity, and a "bagillion" other variables.
It all boils down to this, a 4 ton will not properly cool a 10 light room (if 1k a piece) without additional measures in place (e.g.; ducting and complementary cfpm blowers), or extreme external influence (e.g.; it's snowing outside and the room is being cooled due to poor insulation, or internal/external air exchange). It just won't.
The redoubt of 115*F could be inaccurate. The thermostat may have a maximum temp display (i.e.; 115*F). IMHO, it was much hotter than 115.
Regarding 410A VS R22 efficiency/cooling capability, we'll have to agree to disagree. 410a has significant advantages over R22. "Night and day" these two. "Google it" (RIU inside joke now). That being said, newer setup, more than likely 410a, unless HVAC guy is moving discounted R22 units for bigger profit as well as charging an arm and a leg for R22 (liquid gold). She did say 9 G's (ouch).
No, but you don't want your AC constantly fighting your lights either. Have you ever run a ductless 10k+ room? It's tough to "beat the heat".
I'm just trying to help out, hate to see someone lose their crop to equipment failure. Also, not trying to be "negative" (@Snoopy36 ), but Unicorns don't always shit Rainbows.
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