Please help! mold on clones

Hey guys i have a dome with about 30 cuts in it and just found 4 with fuzzy gray/white mold growing on the stems and a few leaves, one was completely wilted and dead with fuzz but i pulled it up and it had no roots. The rest are growing fine and have nice root growth and i was fixing to go put them in the ground at a prepared guerilla plot but im afraid they are all affected but just aren't showing symptoms yet? Im not sure what to do. In this particular room i also have other separate clones and domes and they are all fine too but my concern is how will those effect my other plants or will they not affect them at all? Im pretty positive that what caused this mold was high temps/ too much moisture. Thanks!

This is very serious and its got me mentally wrecked after losing a few plants to bud rot outdoors last year. Please someone help

Grey Mold / Bud Rot / Fungus (Botrytis cinerea)
Botrytis blight or gray mold is a common fungus disease which can cause blights; the most common is Botrytis cinerea.

Botrytis infections often thrive in cool (60 degrees Fahrenheit or 15 degrees Celsius), rainy spring and summer weather.

Gray mold can be particularly damaging when rainy, drizzly weather continues over several days.

Look for masses of silver-gray spores on infected plant parts that are growing in humid areas.

Tiny, black, shiny specks might also be seen embedded in diseased plant tissue.

These are sclerotia of Botrytis: they allow the fungus to survive the winter.

Botrytis blight can affect leaves, stems, crowns, flowers, flower buds, seeds, seedlings, bulbs, and just about any other part of a plant with the exception of the roots.

Solution: The best way to manage this disease is keeping humidity low, maintaining good air circulation, and by regularly inspecting and removing of infected parts of the plant immediately.

NEVER SPRAY YOUR BUDS WITH ANYTHING. Once a bud has been infected, you need to remove the affected parts.

Remove infected flowers, leaves, or the entire plant if it's infected at the base, and take it far far away from your grow area to dispose if it.

Low humidity slows down and prevents mold (50% or less humidity is optimal, especially towards the end of the flowering stage). Also try to maintain lots of air movement with oscillating fans, and lots of air exchange if possible ( via Exhuast air and Supply air).

If you find mold remove it immediately. Once you first find mold, you need to watch your plants like a hawk, as mold spreads quickly.

It is best not to do any mold removal while plants are wet since this could help spread fungal spores during conditions which favor infection.

Also avoid overhead watering, or misting plants, especially if you have had trouble with grey mold in the past.

To promote rapid drying of plants, try to space them to allow good air circulation, and don't hesitate to use fans to help promote good air circulation.

Sanitation and cleanliness alone is not sufficient to control this fungus.

The fungus can produce 60,000 or more spores on a piece of plant tissue the size of your small finger nail.

Even one spore can infect a plant and cause disease.

So, avoid injuring plants in any way.

Do not leave large stubs of stems when taking cuttings.

Ventilate your grow space to prevent high humidity conditions.

Even lowering the humidity slightly can have a significant effect on Botrytis.

Outdoor planting should be planned to provide good air circulation patterns.

This is the most important means of stopping this fungus.

Added protection is available for many crops by applying a fungicide or combination of fungicides.

However, Botrytis can develop resistance to certain chemicals.

An ozone treatment is also an option, ozone is excellent for decimating spore counts in the grow room and a decent UV tube unit placed high in the room with a fan blowing through it can reduce dramatically the risk of botrytis.

Don't spray or burn Sulfer in the flowering stage! You will ruin your crop as Sulfer makes your bud taste really bad, like REALLY TERRIBLE.

However, it is safe to use sulfur in Veg to treat mold, before the buds have started forming. Sulfer seems to get right into the essence of the bud and the taste/smell is impossible to remove. Sulfure will TOTALLY ruin your crop if used in the flowering stage!

Damping-off (young marijuana seedlings dying)
Damping-off generally refers to sudden plant death in the seedling stage due to the attack of fungi.

These fungi are soil borne and are stimulated to grow and infect the seed or seedling by nutrients released from a germinating seed.

However, seedlings may be injured or killed by something other than fungi, for example, toxic materials in the soil, excess or deficient soil moisture, seed defects, temperature extremes, toxic gases in the air, etc. A correct diagnosis is the key to effective control measures.

Damping-off disease of seedlings is widely distributed and is a problem on a worldwide basis. It occurs in most soils, temperate and tropical climates, and in greenhouses.

The disease affects seeds and seedlings of various crops.

The amount of damage the disease causes to seedlings depends on the fungus, soil moisture, and temperature. Normally, however, cool wet soils favor development of the disease.

Seedlings in seedbeds often are completely destroyed by damping-off, or they die after transplanting.

Frequently, germinating seeds are killed by damping-off fungi before they emerge from the ground, which accounts for poor stands in many crops.

Older plants are seldom killed by damping-off fungi mainly because the development of secondary stem tissue forms a protective barrier and limits fungal penetration.

However, portions of the roots and stems still can be attacked, resulting in poor growth and reduced yields. When seeds are planted in infested soils, damping-off fungi may attack them at any stage.

The damping-off fungi may attack the seed prior to germination, or they may attack after the seed has germinated but before the seedling has emerged above the soil line.

Infected seed becomes soft and mushy turning a brown to black color, and it eventually disintegrates.

Seeds that have germinated and become infected develop water-soaked spots that enlarge and turn brown.

The infected tissue collapses, resulting in death of the seedling.

Penetration and death of seeds before they emerge is termed preemergence damping-off.

Seedlings that have emerged are usually attacked at or below the soil line. The organism can easily penetrate the young soft stem tissue.

The infected stem portion becomes discolored and begins to shrink.

As this occurs, the supportive strength of the stem's invaded portion is lost, and the seedling topples over. The fungi continue to invade the remaining portion of the seedling, resulting in death.

This phase of the disease is termed postemergence damping-off. Older established plants also can be attacked by damping-off fungi.

Usually the new developing rootlets are infected, resulting in root rot. Infected plants show symptoms of wilting and poor growth.

Solution: Proper conditions for seed germination and seedling emergence also favor vigorous growth of fungi that cause damping-off.

Seed and roots must be kept moist and warm until the roots have penetrated the soil and the seedlings have emerged.

As the seedlings continue to grow, moisture at the soil surface can be decreased, and the damping-off fungi then will have less of an advantage.

When watering, thoroughly saturate the soil and then apply no more water until soil approaches the point at which plants wilt.

This procedure will keep surface soil dry for a maximum time.

Pasteurization of Soils is the best way to protect yourself. Soil for growing transplants in flats can be steam pasteurized.

If steam is used, the entire soil mass should be maintained at a temperature of 160 degrees F for 30 minutes.

The home gardener obviously does not have facilities to steam soil; however, pasteurized, packaged soil mix is available from many garden centers.

To prevent soil recontamination, all items such as tools, pots, and flats, etc., must be clean. The items can be cleaned in hot water (160 degrees F for 30 minutes) or in a chlorine bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water; soak for 30 minutes).

It is important to use fresh chlorine bleach-water solutions.

Thank you for your reply but it seems last year while battling bud rot that i read everything and all info i could possibly find online. Im needing some first hand experience. Im really just wondering if my clones that wasn't infected are infected but just not showing symptoms yet. Id hate to go through all the work and pit them out for nothing. What do you think??

If its pm I would just trash them and start over.

I wouldn't kill them yet. U said you were thinking about putting them outside and I would think that's the best thing to do

just cut off mold. they live through it unless theyre completely covered.

you could try cleaning the clone equipment and the area around the cloner. a tad more fresh air and a few degrees lower humidity

toss the sick ones

The clones who was covered what look like spider web and brown top ??, are for the garbage, but the reason is : they are to compact in your dome, try to remove maximum leaf or use simply another dome to ensure they have enough light and air and they are not too squizzy. it happen to me with my LIberty haze clone, they realy dont support lack of air/light.

Hard to tell without pic but you're not suppose to see that sickness on your healty clones. Personnaly if i need 40 plant i make 65 clones to make sure!

Avoid to spray water directly on clone specially if the dome is fully load, spray only if the jiffy/rockwool is a bit dry. if the dome is correctly scealed your not suppose to spray one or two time for the rooting time (10 day).

Hablamos said:

The clones who was covered what look like spider web and brown top ??, are for the garbage, but the reason is : they are to compact in your dome, try to remove maximum leaf or use simply another dome to ensure they have enough light and air and they are not too squizzy. it happen to me with my LIberty haze clone, they realy dont support lack of air/light.

Hard to tell without pic but you're not suppose to see that sickness on your healty clones. Personnaly if i need 40 plant i make 65 clones to make sure!

Avoid to spray water directly on clone specially if the dome is fully load, spray only if the jiffy/rockwool is a bit dry. if the dome is correctly scealed your not suppose to spray one or two time for the rooting time (10 day).

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This was a great reply. I'm having the same problem with a few of my clones right now in the dome, I threw those ones out right away. I think that I over sprayed them with water the first two days of putting them in there, all over directly on the leaves too.