Potent Hash Oil *Without* Poisonous Butane >8D

Dan Kone said:

Burning them mostly.

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Burning wax has a different effect, that vaporizing it. The byproducts of burning a simple alkane wax for instance, would be C02 and water vapor.

I haven't seen the chemical structure of cannabis plant waxes yet, but there are a couple different ones. One is on the leaves, etc, and the other coats the trichomes to protect the resin from water. The latter is not a simple alkane and is hydrophylic on one end, much like the wax a wasp has coating its body to water proof it. The hydrophylic end sticks to the wet plant side and the hydrophobic side repels the water.

I have a pretty good idea what atomizing wax and spray coating a surface does, but the thought of one end of it also being hydrophylic raises questions as to the effect?

Marzfisch said:

So if you are following my other recent posts, Butane is infact poisonous. Well, not exactly. The canning process of the butane inevitably adds a toxic chemical into the can that is unavoidable with butane. Even with 20x refined butane, you will still have the same amount of toxins within the can. So we use Alcohol. If you go to the store, and you buy the cheap 70% Isopropyl rubbing alcohol, (yes, the cheap stuff with the water in it.) Then pour your alcohol into a jar with sodium chloride, (Table salt) and add more than enough to saturate the water so no more will dissolve into the water. Salt will not dissolve in Alcohol, so the salt will bind with the water, and become heavier than the alcohol. Let the salt water and everything become still and all the salt water falls to the bottom of the jar. Then you can siphon or use a turkey baster to get the liquid from the top and you will now have 100% Isopropyl alcohol, AKA Dehydrated Isopropyl. This will pull less polar molecules when you do your initial soak in buds or trim or shake, or hey, sometimes even kiff because this now has no water. just be careful not to pull any saline (fully saturated salt water) in when removing the alcohol off the top.

/

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The butane isn't the poison this guy is talking about! When anything is canned they actually lubricate the edge of the lid and bttom to allow for ease of closure. Its in all canned foods. I know that in the food industry they use non toxic substances for obvious reasons but others like butane Im not sure what they use?

I have to ask though why all the work for pure chemical free meds?

First...why would you not just buy ISO 99% and for go all that work? You do realize that pure ISO becomes 99% or less as soon as you expose it to air. ISO naturally wicks moisture from the surroundings.

Second...why the water? If you wash your product less you don't pick up any color and you can skip this process all together.

This is my process, I first freeze my dry herb and iso 99% then using my kitchen Aid mixer I put the cold shake and iso in the mixer and let mix for 1 to 1 1/2 minutes, pour the liquid off and add just enough to cover again, mix one minute again. Keeping seperate, I let both jars sit overnight to settle. The next day I filter it carefully (coffee filter) not to disturb the crap at the bottom(I only take so much and leave the gunk and a little iso for the next batch).

Once filtered I pour one jar into a rice cooker and vap it off then remove the slurry and repeat with the second jar. My first batch turns out a nice amber color and the second jar is a little on the green side, but barley.

I wash a 1/4 pound at a time and generally I will pull 8-10g on the first wash and 4-6g with the secongd wash.

Both end up kick ass.

Try it...its simple and very quick and easy. I would put my finish product up against anyone elses any day.

if youre only getting 16g from 112 (just over 10% return) I wouldnt even bother to make oil.

Fadedawg said:

Burning wax has a different effect, that vaporizing it. The byproducts of burning a simple alkane wax for instance, would be C02 and water vapor.

I haven't seen the chemical structure of cannabis plant waxes yet, but there are a couple different ones. One is on the leaves, etc, and the other coats the trichomes to protect the resin from water. The latter is not a simple alkane and is hydrophylic on one end, much like the wax a wasp has coating its body to water proof it. The hydrophylic end sticks to the wet plant side and the hydrophobic side repels the water.

I have a pretty good idea what atomizing wax and spray coating a surface does, but the thought of one end of it also being hydrophylic raises questions as to the effect?

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As I've said, I've asked an organic chemist about it, he said not harmful and it isn't comparable to insect wax.

Sir.Ganga said:

The butane isn't the poison this guy is talking about! When anything is canned they actually lubricate the edge of the lid and bttom to allow for ease of closure. Its in all canned foods. I know that in the food industry they use non toxic substances for obvious reasons but others like butane Im not sure what they use?

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I'm pretty sure at this point they aren't using killoxin to can butane. Keep in mind this is lighter fluid we're talking about. The same lighter fluid that's been used to ignite every bong hit and joint you've ever had. The same lighter fluid that's been in pic lighters since the 1960s and hasn't caused any problems. I'm not sure why all of a sudden it's a problem when it hasn't been for the last 50+ years.

First...why would you not just buy ISO 99% and for go all that work? You do realize that pure ISO becomes 99% or less as soon as you expose it to air. ISO naturally wicks moisture from the surroundings.

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ISO has a lower evaporation temp than butane and is much harder to fully purge. Also I'm not seeing any ISO test out like bho. And it produces a less desirable product. Not sure why replacing a non-toxic substance with a toxic substance that's harder to purge would be an improvement.

My QWET could def be dissolved and filtered once more. Not the cleanest extraction. Got a few bits in it.