painkillerman
Active Member
is there way to nutralize sulfur as i enjoy processing da leave in bubble bags this is y i went uv route
Powder Mildew
- Thread starter kathie420
- Start date
FYI anyone who tells you that PM is systemic (within the plant) doesn't know their ass from their elbow. PM is not just a MJ problem, in fact grape growers deal with it all the time. It is a fungus. Fungi are NOT systemic they spread via spore and only penetrate the 1st layer of the plant. The spore can then "overwinter" (keep living) on plant matter, walls, dirt etc. and will pop up again once the conditions are right.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r302100311.html
If it were systemic they would have to kill every plant infected to control it... but they dont... The hard part is killing every spore (which can be done with temps over 95-104 Fahrenheit or the use of fungicides. I use Green Cure (as Potassiom Bicarbonate implodes the cell walls of the fungi and spore on contact and is a nutrient for the plant as well.)
Read up and don't listen to the Hype on MJ forums where people who don't bother reading or studying on thier problem and just listen to bad advice and hearsay.
http://www.practicalwinery.com/marapr03/marapr03p16.htm ,
http://www.apsnet.org/publications/apsnetfeatures/Pages/UCDavisRisk.aspx,
As for your Baking soda, be careful of the run-off (don't let it get into the soil) when washing and use sparingly because it can cause many problems with lockout, stunting, and leaf burn to name a few.
Good luck... Best way to not get it at all is to start with seed... I got it from some dispensery clones and it has been a pain in the arse to eradicate without daily inspections ever since. Im going to heat treat the room @104+ degrees after I clear these out to kill all spores that are left...
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r302100311.html
If it were systemic they would have to kill every plant infected to control it... but they dont... The hard part is killing every spore (which can be done with temps over 95-104 Fahrenheit or the use of fungicides. I use Green Cure (as Potassiom Bicarbonate implodes the cell walls of the fungi and spore on contact and is a nutrient for the plant as well.)
Read up and don't listen to the Hype on MJ forums where people who don't bother reading or studying on thier problem and just listen to bad advice and hearsay.
http://www.practicalwinery.com/marapr03/marapr03p16.htm ,
http://www.apsnet.org/publications/apsnetfeatures/Pages/UCDavisRisk.aspx,
As for your Baking soda, be careful of the run-off (don't let it get into the soil) when washing and use sparingly because it can cause many problems with lockout, stunting, and leaf burn to name a few.
Good luck... Best way to not get it at all is to start with seed... I got it from some dispensery clones and it has been a pain in the arse to eradicate without daily inspections ever since. Im going to heat treat the room @104+ degrees after I clear these out to kill all spores that are left...
lordjin
Well-Known Member
Like^^Like^^Like^^
colonuggs
Well-Known Member
Every piece of scientific research I've read has told me that powdery mildew is NOT systemic, but rather a spore that germinates and reproduces at an incredible rate given the right circumstances and environment. A spore can be transferred in your hair, your clothing, or can float through the air and get sucked into your ventilation, brought in by your pet. It can lie dormant on top of a reflector, a drop-cieling, in the corner of your room, waiting for an optimal time to germinate. A spore is so small it can be transferred by an insect, even a gnat, so even if P.M. is not systemic, the ease of contamiation would make it seem so. I personally have more regard for factual information, scientific research and laboratory results than I do for personal opinions and "experience". This being said, when I talk to professional growers (and I've talked to many), well their opinions and experiences almost never coincide. Some are 100% certain that P.M. IS NOT systemic, while the other half are just as assured that P.M. IS indeed systemic. I try to remain open to both possibilities.... just in case! Maybe someone can get ahold of Ed Rosenthal for me and ask the great himself ? I've listed multiple ways to deal with powdery mildew in your garden. Systemic............and non-systemic. I hope I can give you some ammo, and even some heavy artillery against the war on P.M. Good luck, happy researching and please, don't always believe what you read in the forums !
Chemical Control: Note: Chemical information sourced from maximumyield.com and cannibisculture.com Chemical control should be considered a last resort. Chemicals should be sprayed only in veg or early flower to prevent absorption into the buds and burning bud hairs. Chemicals may have to be applied repeatedly to be effective, and may take a few days for noticeable results. Use a surfactant to help adhere chemical to leaf surface. Some chemicals are more harmful than others; follow label directions and observe precautions. Always spot spray first. Spraying individual leaves can be an option. Note: many chemicals will leave a residue that appears similar to powdery mildew!
SULPHUR
*Sulphur Powder-The powdery mildew fungus is vulnerable to the action of sulphur throughout most of its life cycle. Sulphur works by `selective toxicity' that is, it is more toxic to the parasite than to the host. An effective sulphur application rate would be 110-220ml per 100 litres of water of a `suspension or wettable powder' product, when the fungus is first observed, followed by repeat applications two weeks later.
*Garden sulphur: A common non-toxic spray, sulfur interferes with mildew cellular respiration. Spray young plants weekly before hairs form (or spray lower leaves only), then discontinue. Do not wash off. Note: dried sulphur spray looks similar to mildew. For best results, prune plants in veg/early flower, then spray lower stems and foliage. Warning: can give a sulphur taste if sprayed directly onto buds! Foliar spray: 15-20ml sulphur powder/Liter water. Keep well mixed when spraying. Note: will not wash off buds. Re-application may be necessary.
* Sulphur burner. These devices vaporize (not burn) elemental sulphur, coat the room with a fine film of sulphur, inhibiting PM spores from germinating. Also inhibits insects to some degree. Run for 12 hours initially (at night, exhaust blower off, circ fans on), then 1-4 hrs/night thereafter. Some discontinue when buds begin to form, other let it run up to the last week. Very effective prevention.
NOTE:Sulphur dust or flowers of sulphur poses little or no risk of inducing resistant mildew strains.
* Alkaline Water: Alkaline water can affect powdery mildew, as mildew cannot grow in basic conditions. Mist plants generously with water at 8.0+ pH frequently; discontinue when buds begin to mature to prevent budrot. [Editor's note: this does work and is effective in late flower. Alkaline water does not seem to affect buds or bud hairs. The effect is temporary, but drastically slows mildew grow and spread. Reapply every 4-5 days.]
*Baking Soda: Sodium Bicarbonate "Sodium collapses the powdery mildew cell wall". Baking soda leaves an alkaline residue on the leaves, which should be washed off with water before more is applied. Foliar spray: 15ml / gallon
Potassium Bicarbonate: "Collapses and desiccates the mildew hyphae. Very safe, very effective contact fungicide". Kaligreen and Armicarb100.
*Banner Maxx: A systemic defense. Banner MAXX ™ is a systemic fungicide that provides effective broad-spectrum disease control in turf and ornamentals. It is a microemulsion concentrate formulation providing excellent tank mix compatibility and stability; no odor, and mixes into a clear solution.
*Eagle-20: A systemic defense. Eagle 20 EW containes the active ingredient myclobutanil, a demethylation inhibitor (DMI) that hinders sterol synthesis, which restricts cell wall development in targeted pathogens. Eagle 20EW does not display the plant growth regulator effects often associated with other locally systemic sterol-inhibitor fungicides or those with similar modes of action
*Funga-Flor TR-Fungaflor® TR Dry Micro Total Release Fungicide is the first total-release fungicide with broad-spectrum prevention and control of plant diseases, including alternaria, downy mildew, powdery mildew and rust, as well as the No. 1 foliar disease in the greenhouse market, botrytis.
*Green Cure: potassium bicarbonate, is commonly used in food products and is completely organic.
*Neem Oil:: Protects and kills mildew by inhibiting respiration; also protects against mites and may improve plant vigor. Results are noticeable in a couple of days. Pro-silica: (Soluble Silicon) ”… increases resistance to pathogens by accumulating in…(leaf and root) cells of plants, providing a barrier against penetration by invading fungi such as powdery mildew and Pythium. Foliar applications leave deposits of silicon…on the leaf surface that promote effective physical barriers to…infection.” Pro-silica is alkaline. Foliar spray: 1 part in 5
*Silica-Many growers achieve control or prevention of mildew disease with application of silica based dusts or sprays. Silica gives a protective coat over the leaf surface and thus prevents the mildew spores from germinating and infecting the plant tissue.
*SM90: A natural plant extract in a vegetable oil base. Foliar spray: 10ml/liter
Copper Sulphate: "Copper ions inactivate some fungal enzyme systems, killing the mycellium." Effective one-shot application, but production may be discontinued. Benomyl: Apply in veg only.
*Saprol: A systemic defense. One of the chemical fungicides which is still effective against powdery mildew is `triforine', sold under the name of `Saprol'. Saprol is a systemic fungicide with both curative and protectant action against a range of fungal disease. This should be sprayed at the fist sign of infection (at a range of 150ml/100 litres of water), and repeated 10 days later. Powdery mildew can develop resistance to Saprol, so its use should be limited to 4 applications per season, and rotated with use of another fungicide such as sulphur based products.
*Malatox: by the chronic: …”This is a wonder cure. Mildew completely vanishes for up to 7 weeks! Make sure you spray before the first week of flowering.” Foliar spray: 2.5ml per liter of water.
Biological controls:
*Unpasturized Milk: Note: must be fresh, not store bought (which is pasturized). Diltute 10 parts water to 1 part milk. Works, although the milk may smell.
*AQ10: A biofungicide. Ampelomyces quisqualis is a fungus that "parasites the powdery mildew organism. It offers control over a long period of time." Effective only in initial stages of infection.
*Plant Shield: is a foliar spray (General Hydroponics), which kills many types of leaf and root fungus. Trichoderma harzianum strain T-22. Safe to use. Takes 2-10 days.
*Serenade: "The fermentation product of a bacterium, bacillus subtillis, that inhibits cell growth of fungi and bacteria. It is effective and easy to spray or use as a dip". Contact fungicide.
Chemical Control: Note: Chemical information sourced from maximumyield.com and cannibisculture.com Chemical control should be considered a last resort. Chemicals should be sprayed only in veg or early flower to prevent absorption into the buds and burning bud hairs. Chemicals may have to be applied repeatedly to be effective, and may take a few days for noticeable results. Use a surfactant to help adhere chemical to leaf surface. Some chemicals are more harmful than others; follow label directions and observe precautions. Always spot spray first. Spraying individual leaves can be an option. Note: many chemicals will leave a residue that appears similar to powdery mildew!
SULPHUR
*Sulphur Powder-The powdery mildew fungus is vulnerable to the action of sulphur throughout most of its life cycle. Sulphur works by `selective toxicity' that is, it is more toxic to the parasite than to the host. An effective sulphur application rate would be 110-220ml per 100 litres of water of a `suspension or wettable powder' product, when the fungus is first observed, followed by repeat applications two weeks later.
*Garden sulphur: A common non-toxic spray, sulfur interferes with mildew cellular respiration. Spray young plants weekly before hairs form (or spray lower leaves only), then discontinue. Do not wash off. Note: dried sulphur spray looks similar to mildew. For best results, prune plants in veg/early flower, then spray lower stems and foliage. Warning: can give a sulphur taste if sprayed directly onto buds! Foliar spray: 15-20ml sulphur powder/Liter water. Keep well mixed when spraying. Note: will not wash off buds. Re-application may be necessary.
* Sulphur burner. These devices vaporize (not burn) elemental sulphur, coat the room with a fine film of sulphur, inhibiting PM spores from germinating. Also inhibits insects to some degree. Run for 12 hours initially (at night, exhaust blower off, circ fans on), then 1-4 hrs/night thereafter. Some discontinue when buds begin to form, other let it run up to the last week. Very effective prevention.
NOTE:Sulphur dust or flowers of sulphur poses little or no risk of inducing resistant mildew strains.
* Alkaline Water: Alkaline water can affect powdery mildew, as mildew cannot grow in basic conditions. Mist plants generously with water at 8.0+ pH frequently; discontinue when buds begin to mature to prevent budrot. [Editor's note: this does work and is effective in late flower. Alkaline water does not seem to affect buds or bud hairs. The effect is temporary, but drastically slows mildew grow and spread. Reapply every 4-5 days.]
*Baking Soda: Sodium Bicarbonate "Sodium collapses the powdery mildew cell wall". Baking soda leaves an alkaline residue on the leaves, which should be washed off with water before more is applied. Foliar spray: 15ml / gallon
Potassium Bicarbonate: "Collapses and desiccates the mildew hyphae. Very safe, very effective contact fungicide". Kaligreen and Armicarb100.
*Banner Maxx: A systemic defense. Banner MAXX ™ is a systemic fungicide that provides effective broad-spectrum disease control in turf and ornamentals. It is a microemulsion concentrate formulation providing excellent tank mix compatibility and stability; no odor, and mixes into a clear solution.
*Eagle-20: A systemic defense. Eagle 20 EW containes the active ingredient myclobutanil, a demethylation inhibitor (DMI) that hinders sterol synthesis, which restricts cell wall development in targeted pathogens. Eagle 20EW does not display the plant growth regulator effects often associated with other locally systemic sterol-inhibitor fungicides or those with similar modes of action
*Funga-Flor TR-Fungaflor® TR Dry Micro Total Release Fungicide is the first total-release fungicide with broad-spectrum prevention and control of plant diseases, including alternaria, downy mildew, powdery mildew and rust, as well as the No. 1 foliar disease in the greenhouse market, botrytis.
*Green Cure: potassium bicarbonate, is commonly used in food products and is completely organic.
*Neem Oil:: Protects and kills mildew by inhibiting respiration; also protects against mites and may improve plant vigor. Results are noticeable in a couple of days. Pro-silica: (Soluble Silicon) ”… increases resistance to pathogens by accumulating in…(leaf and root) cells of plants, providing a barrier against penetration by invading fungi such as powdery mildew and Pythium. Foliar applications leave deposits of silicon…on the leaf surface that promote effective physical barriers to…infection.” Pro-silica is alkaline. Foliar spray: 1 part in 5
*Silica-Many growers achieve control or prevention of mildew disease with application of silica based dusts or sprays. Silica gives a protective coat over the leaf surface and thus prevents the mildew spores from germinating and infecting the plant tissue.
*SM90: A natural plant extract in a vegetable oil base. Foliar spray: 10ml/liter
Copper Sulphate: "Copper ions inactivate some fungal enzyme systems, killing the mycellium." Effective one-shot application, but production may be discontinued. Benomyl: Apply in veg only.
*Saprol: A systemic defense. One of the chemical fungicides which is still effective against powdery mildew is `triforine', sold under the name of `Saprol'. Saprol is a systemic fungicide with both curative and protectant action against a range of fungal disease. This should be sprayed at the fist sign of infection (at a range of 150ml/100 litres of water), and repeated 10 days later. Powdery mildew can develop resistance to Saprol, so its use should be limited to 4 applications per season, and rotated with use of another fungicide such as sulphur based products.
*Malatox: by the chronic: …”This is a wonder cure. Mildew completely vanishes for up to 7 weeks! Make sure you spray before the first week of flowering.” Foliar spray: 2.5ml per liter of water.
Biological controls:
*Unpasturized Milk: Note: must be fresh, not store bought (which is pasturized). Diltute 10 parts water to 1 part milk. Works, although the milk may smell.
*AQ10: A biofungicide. Ampelomyces quisqualis is a fungus that "parasites the powdery mildew organism. It offers control over a long period of time." Effective only in initial stages of infection.
*Plant Shield: is a foliar spray (General Hydroponics), which kills many types of leaf and root fungus. Trichoderma harzianum strain T-22. Safe to use. Takes 2-10 days.
*Serenade: "The fermentation product of a bacterium, bacillus subtillis, that inhibits cell growth of fungi and bacteria. It is effective and easy to spray or use as a dip". Contact fungicide.
the stoned crab
Member
Eagle20 never leaves your sytem once ingested.
Do some research. Rat research. Eagle20 causes birth defects and retardation in successive generations. This shit and others like it are for the commercial flower producers. Anyone knowingly using this for ingested products is an ass.
Your children won't have any problems, its your grandchildren that will reap the rewards of chemical death weed.
How sad.
Cleanliness and care for your growroom will reap one large rewards without the need to poison yourself and others.
Do some research. Rat research. Eagle20 causes birth defects and retardation in successive generations. This shit and others like it are for the commercial flower producers. Anyone knowingly using this for ingested products is an ass.
Your children won't have any problems, its your grandchildren that will reap the rewards of chemical death weed.
How sad.
Cleanliness and care for your growroom will reap one large rewards without the need to poison yourself and others.
painkillerman
Active Member
TRUE SCARY BUT SOOO TRUE silca sounds best for prevention my veg was done using sm9o well see in few weeks
karmas a bitch
Well-Known Member
Good read.
bird mcbride
Well-Known Member
I've seen PM in every op but mine. We all do things very much similar with one small exception. First off I must warn you, eveyone from Al B.Fuct on up to the administrator has totally dissed this method. I burn barbecue charcoal for increased co2 levels while the lights are on. It averages six pieces per 1kw hps
bird mcbride
Well-Known Member
Oh, one more thing, never spray you're plants with anything but fresh and/or res water.
ganjagoddess
Well-Known Member
Mold cant grow well under 60%RH, so always hold your RH below that.
MANY ANY people bag on EAGLE.... The serious trick is to use so little and only once on just the MOMs... you will 100% NEVER even see PM in your grow again. Yes it can be dangerous though in many successive ways.
It has many disadvantages, but the best advantage is no more PM, btw Greencure sucks and is just bicarbonate fizzy water...
MANY ANY people bag on EAGLE.... The serious trick is to use so little and only once on just the MOMs... you will 100% NEVER even see PM in your grow again. Yes it can be dangerous though in many successive ways.
It has many disadvantages, but the best advantage is no more PM, btw Greencure sucks and is just bicarbonate fizzy water...
Buddy Hemphill
Active Member
what is the dilution rate of Eagle 20?
ganjagoddess
Well-Known Member
I have to check again as I have only ever used it like twice.. but I think its like 2ml/gallon.. very very little
lol about the fizzy water comment. Read about what potassium bicarbonate does to the cell walls of fungi and their spores. Sounds like that epidemiological decay may have already been passed down that gene line... Greencure works as directed. Im using 1/4 dose with a total win 6 weeks into flower and the potassium is absorbed like a foliage spray to no flipper babies for me...
also PM will grow in humidity under 60% if you bothered to educate yourself before spreading non truth. Just read the links I provided... or here is a quote if reading an article is too much:
"Another environmental factor that influences development of PM is relative humidity (RH), although just how important a role it plays remains unclear. In multiple tests on Riesling seedlings, we’ve shown that disease severity increases progressively to a point of doubling as the RH increases from 39% (the lowest level that could be tested) up to an optimum near 85% to 90%. (Rain or condensation on the leaves and fruit are detrimental to disease development)."
also PM will grow in humidity under 60% if you bothered to educate yourself before spreading non truth. Just read the links I provided... or here is a quote if reading an article is too much:
"Another environmental factor that influences development of PM is relative humidity (RH), although just how important a role it plays remains unclear. In multiple tests on Riesling seedlings, we’ve shown that disease severity increases progressively to a point of doubling as the RH increases from 39% (the lowest level that could be tested) up to an optimum near 85% to 90%. (Rain or condensation on the leaves and fruit are detrimental to disease development)."
missnu
Well-Known Member
CBS News says prescription drugs killed brittany murphy...
karmas a bitch
Well-Known Member
I bought this today. Sounds pretty good. Anyone else ever use it?
http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/cx-hydroponics-pmt-powdery-mildew-treatment-338oz-p-3761.html
http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/cx-hydroponics-pmt-powdery-mildew-treatment-338oz-p-3761.html
ganjagoddess
Well-Known Member
Greencure sucks we all know it, have fun spending $15 to do nothing over and over...
AS for RH, PM has a MUCH harder time Developing to a full blown attack when RH is held below 60, this isnt mis information and if anything should only help any grower dealing with PM.
Buddy Hemphill
Active Member
I just used 1/4 tsp/gal with no burn.
ogreballerina
Well-Known Member
Lower RH, increase airflow, increase heat. And increase of airflow means inside the grow itself and any intake. Turning your room into a negative pressure will help. Putting a fan to blow up from the floor through the canopy will also help.
Use a high PH water 8.4
PM does not like any of the above environments...it likes cool, moist, shady and still places to grow.
Spaying your plants with every chemical under the sun is not going to fix the problem until you know where the problem came from.
High PH water is the simpliest and most effective way to hold back PM until harvest....then it's time for room bleaching.
By the way....who's Brittany Murphy ?
Use a high PH water 8.4
PM does not like any of the above environments...it likes cool, moist, shady and still places to grow.
Spaying your plants with every chemical under the sun is not going to fix the problem until you know where the problem came from.
High PH water is the simpliest and most effective way to hold back PM until harvest....then it's time for room bleaching.
By the way....who's Brittany Murphy ?
Buddy Hemphill
Active Member
Eagle 20 aint 'every chemical under the sun"
High ph water isn't as effective.
High ph water isn't as effective.
SickleCell
Active Member
if you want something organic and you have it in every kitchen use
2 mid size onions
1 clove garlic
1-2 chilly peppers
chop mince, put in boiling water (not on fire, just let it brew), when cold strain through gauze or something
put in spray bottle and there you have it..
kills most bugs, aphids powder bugs , spiders and more
2 mid size onions
1 clove garlic
1-2 chilly peppers
chop mince, put in boiling water (not on fire, just let it brew), when cold strain through gauze or something
put in spray bottle and there you have it..
kills most bugs, aphids powder bugs , spiders and more