PPM, PH, FLUCTUATE what mean?!

JediSmoker

JediSmoker

Active Member
gvega187 said:
lol the info is not false. Thats like saying that having to use nutrients is a myth or something...Its just part of hydro. Re-read the suggestions and try attacking your res again. Quite a ph swing you have there. Jedi, any ideas why his ph is whippin so hard?

I have had root problems swing ph #'s way down for a week or so.
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I only have a few grows under my belt, so I am not the most experienced person on wild PH swings simply because I have never experienced it. My PH will slowly rise in my tanks, and it usally requires 1-3 adjustments over a 2-3 week period. My cloning resivour (water only) never requires adjustment.

Wild PH swings means something is definately wrong. Perhaps he has a big piece of root stuck in his pump or piping just rotting away. If I ever experienced the situation Zwowzers had, I would flush my tank, clean and inspect everything, fill it with fresh tap water and cycle some H202 through it for a few days to clean the entire system and start over.

I do know that adjusting your PPM either with water or nutes will also effect your PH, but not wildly. It will require you to re-adjusted your PH.
 
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fishenfool06

Well-Known Member
JediSmoker said:
I only have a few grows under my belt, so I am not the most experienced person on wild PH swings simply because I have never experienced it. My PH will slowly rise in my tanks, and it usally requires 1-3 adjustments over a 2-3 week period. My cloning resivour (water only) never requires adjustment.

Wild PH swings means something is definately wrong. Perhaps he has a big piece of root stuck in his pump or piping just rotting away. If I ever experienced the situation Zwowzers had, I would flush my tank, clean and inspect everything, fill it with fresh tap water and cycle some H202 through it for a few days to clean the entire system and start over.

I do know that adjusting your PPM either with water or nutes will also effect your PH, but not wildly. It will require you to re-adjusted your PH.
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im using a DWC system and i have found that when my ph starts fluctuating wildly i usualy have some slime in or on the roots, most people will use h2o2 i know i did. i had a friend rec higrozine in with my regular feeding to take care of the slime, so i did after the third week of treetment all slime was gone, roots were nice and white with lots of new roots. and ph @6.2 no more fluctuation u can even flush with it. it is not a nute there are microbs that digest your old root mater.
 
gvega187

gvega187

Well-Known Member
haha yeah hygrozyme is the good stuff....only wish they didnt have a monopoly on the organic cleansers dept.

Anyone know if you can run sm-90 and hyrgozyme in combo?

wicked root rot will DROP your ph VERY fast. I have never noticed an increase due to root failure.
 
NewGrowth

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
What's Sm-90? Hygrozyme is definitely a good alternative to H202 but I'm preaching to the choir here.
 
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fishenfool06

Well-Known Member
NewGrowth said:
What's Sm-90? Hygrozyme is definitely a good alternative to H202 but I'm preaching to the choir here.
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i have used sm-90 and h2o2 never again . neem oil mixed with safer sope insted of sm-90 and hygrozime insted of h2o2 . i use it threw my entire grow.
 
Xan2

Xan2

Well-Known Member
The best thing to avoid big fluctuation every day is to have 10 gal of water per plant. I have to balance my ph sometimes twice a day in my systems because i only have about 2 gal of water per plant... It is normal to see fluctuation as plants take water and water also evaporate... Nutrients are expensive so i keep my water at 68-70F to avoid the water to evaporate quickly.
 
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fishenfool06

Well-Known Member
NewGrowth said:
I agree, I've used them for years without a problem. What made the switch for you?
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I am fairly new at this but we learn as we go. i have a bloom box system and only have a 10 gall res for 9 plants. so my first experience with trouble was ph lock , nuit burn , powdery mold & pithiea. i think thats how it is spelled. my roots got so slimy thay turned red and stank. after speaking to lots of different people the magority say h2o2 is the way to go, so i did it made my roots nice and white for a week then the slime came back even worse. so i had a early harvest and salvaged what i could. next time around i had raised babys from seed bc god bud. veged grate no problems went into flower and all hell broke loose . started with h2o2 and started calling every one i could my local hydro store rec sm90 for treating pithiea i did a lite fowler spray allowed them to dry out from under the lights, then put them backinto the box and let them be. when i came home the next week thay were all yellow and sad. needles to say again i had an early harvest.
this problem recurred every time i almost gave up.until talking with my local hydro dealer he rec higrozime with reg feeding , i used that on my last grow threw the hole flowering stage, i flowered for 10 weeks and harvested the best bud i ever had i my life. i was hoping to see more amber tricoms , but im glad i didn't buds left u with a bad case of couch lock. i have a batch of purple kush growing Saturday it will be 28 days into flower im looking forwards to seeing them, im expecting good things. at 21 days thay were already fat with lots of trics and white crystals allover the buds. by the way my system is fully self contained i adjust it every 7 days.i will send som pixes an Saturday.
 
gvega187

gvega187

Well-Known Member
so tired of ppl saying friggin couch lock lol. Its called being high and it doesn't vary THAT much from diff genetics.

New growth i think his measurement is off either way.

I will assume you have the 35% since you do in fact GO to hydro stores like some ppl on here can not or will not.

Try a 3-5 ml/gal dosage and add back every 3 days. The most I have EVER heard of using is 7ml/gal. You likely burned your roots off and then they rotted. I have heard different rules on the add back. Any thoughts growth?

Also with the peroxide dont add it into your resevoir in pure form. Also allow 20 minutes in this unconcentrated form before adding to your res. That stuff is on the bottle.
 
bdomina

bdomina

Active Member
i have heard you can freeze a regular 3% peroxide solution to get the concentrated chem. & then add water to get the heavier solution. can anyone else elaborate on regular h202 feeding to prevent any rootbound disease.
 
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fishenfool06

Well-Known Member
bdomina said:
i have heard you can freeze a regular 3% peroxide solution to get the concentrated chem. & then add water to get the heavier solution. can anyone else elaborate on regular h202 feeding to prevent any rootbound disease.
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i am using 35 % and i dont add it into my res tub, i mix in my mixing tub then add it into my res. and maybe you dident catch the part were i said im only around the plants on the weekend, so i cant add back every 3 days. it runs itself 5 days at a time.i may be new but im not stupid. h2o2 cleans and sterlizes kills all living organizams, your plants roots need matnance like inzims that help the plants digest old root mater.
 
NewGrowth

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
fishenfool06 said:
i am using 35 % and i dont add it into my res tub, i mix in my mixing tub then add it into my res. and maybe you dident catch the part were i said im only around the plants on the weekend, so i cant add back every 3 days. it runs itself 5 days at a time.i may be new but im not stupid. h2o2 cleans and sterlizes kills all living organizams, your plants roots need matnance like inzims that help the plants digest old root mater.
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You have a point but too high a concentration of H202 will destroy young root matter and will provide more organic matter for baddies to feed off of. 35% should be run @ 1.7ml/L. Your concentration was 10ml/gal or 2.5ml/L a little higher than I run but not too bad.

In cases of severe root rot I like to run h202 for a week or so then stop and run hygrozyme to clear out any organic matter.

None of this should be needed if you consistently clean your reservoir, add h202 and maintain lower res temps.

No need to get defensive we all have our own styles and I for one appreciate your input. :peace: & :leaf:
 
HomeGrownHairy

HomeGrownHairy

Well-Known Member
Wohjew said:
ok thanks im adding hygrozyme and upping nutes 400ppm. im in day 3 of flower , and new to ebb and flow
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You aren't using enough nutes. Young, established seedlings or rooted cuttings are started at 500-600ppm. The ppm is increased to 800-900ppm during peak vegetative growth. During the transition from early to heavy flowering, ppm is further raised to 1000ppm-1400ppm. It is then reduced to 400-500ppm during the final 2 weeks of flowering.
Hope this helps!
 
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fishenfool06

Well-Known Member
HomeGrownHairy said:
You aren't using enough nutes. Young, established seedlings or rooted cuttings are started at 500-600ppm. The ppm is increased to 800-900ppm during peak vegetative growth. During the transition from early to heavy flowering, ppm is further raised to 1000ppm-1400ppm. It is then reduced to 400-500ppm during the final 2 weeks of flowering.
Hope this helps!
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sorry for being a little edgy, i have had a lot of trouble and i have worked my way threw them. every body has different methods for there growi think i have found one that works for me. i have changed my res tub lastnight and i have no ich in the roots nice and white lots of groth in the tub. here are sum pix so u can see what i mean. 28 days , ithink they are looking pretty good . this is a 10 week strain i have about 6 weeks left. the plants look healthy to me what do u think . they are doing better this time, than they have in the past.
 

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Aye1frmDay1ny

Well-Known Member
NewGrowth said:
Here is simplified version:
1.Water level drops PPM goes up: Drop your nutrient strength in relationship to the PPM rise.
2. Water level drops PPM stays the same: You may be able to fine tune you nutrient strength, if growth is vigorous leave it alone.
3. Water level drops PPM drops: Raise your nutrient strength in relationship too PPM drop.
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So what would be my ideal ppm in an aerogarden ? I was running 800-1000 at a 5.4 ph and they all died I'm going back to California soon and want to try a again
 
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