Problem with clone

-I'm not entirely sure how old she is but I think about 3 weeks.
-I transplanted on the 3rd of Dec from the dinky black seedling tray to a 3 gallon grow bag.
-I have it lit with a 6500k 10,000 lux floro on a 24 hour cycle. Do clones need a dark period to develop roots?
-I watered every day for the first 3 days now its every-other.
- I think its a K defiency and the fact I'm watering with straight tap water with a PH of 7.5. I think it also might be the rich ass soil I'm using.
-Also do the alternating nodes at the top mean that its in the flowering stage?

The biggest problems aren't Potassium related. First and foremost, check the soil Ph. The Ph of the soil and that of the liquids you give the plants are two different readings. Incorrect Ph can lock out nutrients and create symptoms similar to a number of deficiencies. If the Ph isn't bad, the way a couple of the large leaves are turning yellow is likely from Nitrogen def. That little brown crispy leaf blade in the back looks like the beginning of Phosphorus deficiency as well.

Thanks man. I'm looking to stay organic what can I add to the soil to balance the PH? CalMag? what should I do with the retarded fan leaf? chop it or clip the tips? Also I was wondering if flushing the soil would help?

You have to test the Ph of the soil first but changing soil Ph can take time. Transplanting is the only fast way to correct it. You can use various types of lime to bring the Ph up in acidic soil, which is what I would expect if there's a Ph problem. When leaves show problems, you want to make sure the cause is fixed before doing any trimming. If you remove damaged leaves and what caused it is still there, the damage will just move to different leaves.

Only flush the soil when you are sure there is a toxicity within it or as the last watering before harvest. Pretty much any other time will hurt the plant. If the soil Ph tests ok then give them something close to a 3-2-1 nutrient ratio. If the Ph is off, you can still give them the fertilizer, but adjust the Ph of the solution higher if the soil is acidic and lower if it's alkaline.

"-I watered every day for the first 3 days now its every-other."



It's fun at first but they always die.

thanks man. I went to the grow store and picked up some oyster shells but like you said, if its a soil problem the adjustment is slow. I'm not entirely worried about it though, she seems to be surviving. I've also decided to start spacing out the watering to just when it actually needs it: when the top inch or so of soil is dry. And I don't believe I mentioned that the strain is Aurora Indica.

+rep Mother's Finest

slight phos def ,add slightly more P. no dark period to develop roots. wont go into flowering till light cycle is 12/12.
bring fluros down within 3 inches of plants, help stop stretching.

thanks, Buds. I also pinched the main stem right before the stretch occurs to help the bottom branching catch up to the top. trying to maximize yeild out of this plant. It seems like I picked the right strain for the job; the branching near the top of the plant is going crazy. I think I have the deficiencies under control. I tested the PH of the soil and it was at 7.5 and the PH of the tap water at mi casa reads 7.7-8 so I put in some Oyster shells and I started watering with Ph 5 water. I believe the problem was nutrient lock-out.

Also, I've had the plant on a 24 hour light cycle but there are single white hairs coming out of the pistols already. Wtf?