Professor Marijuana Returns to answer your questions

When my beans pop I put them in rapid rooters and leave in the tray with a mild Olivia's solution and keep them under the T-5's until the roots pop through. In soil I would go with a cactus blend and just keep them moist for the first week or so. Harden them off under your HID as soon as you can and you should be in good shape. Prof Mj

Prof MJ, i have a question for you. (Soil grow) I popped a bean in a paper towel and went straight into promix bx, it broke the soil 1/4", stopped cold in its track for 4 days. it didnt even shed the hull so i figure it damped off. There was a little bit of white fuzz at the soil line. So i'm starting over. As hard as it is to get $20 beans, when the next one comes out of the paper towel, what kind of medium should it go in? Rockwool, Jiffy puck, etc? I think the promix (with a little worm castings) is maybe staying to moist, so what would you suggest? Ive NEVER had any damping off problems and never really given it any thought to (or had any troubles in) the first couple weeks. Thanks in advance, its nice to have someone to ask.
 
They look fine to me, having short bushy plants generally isn't a problem. I'd think about a little pruning to let some light in and let them go. Bushy plants make good thick buds. I'd let them go and see what happens. Good chance they could still take off at some point. Be nice to cross breed them with a sativa and see what you got.
Only nutes I am using are the following:

CNS17 BLOOM 2-2-5
HYDROPLEX 0-10-6
Rapidstart 1-0.5-1

I have placed into flowering already (3 days in) so I am using my HPS now.

Here is a photo I took last week. Can't take a photo now, they are sleeping.

View attachment 2291248

They are just growing out, not up.


WAIT THEY WEREN'T SLEEPING HERE ARE RECENT PHOTOS.

View attachment 2291250View attachment 2291251View attachment 2291252
 
My advice is break no laws. Now that we got that out of the way. I just can't bring myself to give advice on cutting corners with your lights. If you spend anytime reading my advice you'll learn real quick that I preach lighting, it is the one thing that can improve growers. Lights and light management, it's everything. My advice would be to use no light instead of wasting your money trying to go cheap, your yields will be about the same. Save your money until you can purchase at least a 400w HPS and digital ballast. You can skip the vegging like I do and go straight to flowerr. The HPS will be fine for the little bit of vegging you have to do until flowering. Your yields will be bigger than if you try and grow them larger and spread out your light. Under a 400 you could do four girls at once, go straight to flower and go all the way through with enough light to get impressive yields. DON'T SKIMP ON LIGHTS YOU'LL JUST END UP DOING WHAT i SUGGEST IN THE END AND WILL HAVE WASTED YOUR MONEY SPENT ON THE OTHERS.

I am looking for a cheap lightning method for indoor grow for only just 1-2 plants.
Pretty basic soil and miracle grow mix. First time growing.

I am aware that CFL are cheaper but im not sure what to look for. What do i use for flowering? VEGETATIVE? How many do i need?
Also HPS bulbs need a expensive ballast.
I was considering outdoor grow but its illegal and its going to be late August.

Any advice? Thanks for your time
 
From the start here's how I germinate. I place a couple paper towels on a plate and soak them with PH balanced water. 5.5 to 6.5, I like it under 6. Place your beans on the wet towels (wet, not pools of water) Then cover with a couple more soaked towels. Wrap the whole thing in plastic wrap and place in a cool dark cupboard for two or three days and then take a peek. When your beans pop take them and put them into a rapid rooter or rockwool cube and put them in your dome under T-5's. Put some water with a half strength solution of Olivias rooting juice. Leave there until they sprout roots through the cube and then take it and place into a fullsize cube. Place under your HID but raise the light and put your cube off to the side. Each day move the light a bit closer. Four days they should be hardened off and be fine under full strength lights. Just keep your eye on them so they don't burn. Sometimes they'll stretch on you until they are under the big lights. I take a paperclip and straighten it all out except the lat little bend in it. Shape it like a little golf cluc and stick the straight end into the cube and wrap the club part around the stem for support. That will keep them from falling over on you. Try to get them off as fast as you can ans that will keep them from stretching. When they have weak light they stretch trying to get more of the light. Hope that helps. No dumb questions FYI
Hi Professor,

I'm very new here, so I don't know you from before but I've always liked professors of all kinds, so I don't feel shy asking you a very newbie question. This is my first grow. After a couple of setbacks after testing my hydro equipment and finding some flaws, I now know have a system that's operational for my indoor grow. On Saturday I nervously planted two Jillybean seeds in rockwool. Soaked the rockwool first in water with weak Micro solution. Ph was good. Left the babies alone, but peeked today. Two pretty sprouts popping up about 1/4 inch.

I had watched a youtube video of a ph experiment with germination, and that feller kept the rockwool under wraps for 5 days before looking, and his sprouts had leaves (mine don't yet, obviously). He then kept the dome on but put the seedlings under a light.

At what point do I want to expose my babies to more light? Right now they're under a dome that's covered with tea towels, so it's pretty dark in there, but not pitch black. And how much light should they have? Initially I was thinking I'd keep them just in daylight/halogen room light until they grew too big for the dome, and then I'd put them in the bubble buckets with the MH light for the veg state.

Is that right? I'm in no rush here -- and I'd like to give the kids a robust start. My plan is to flower at around 30 inches and top once. As I said, it's my first grow so I don't want to try too hard, but I do want to do a good job of maximizing yield.

Thanks in advance!

Best,
KG
 
Thank you, she was my world and I am very lost without her. I've buried myself into a web project I've been working on for five years. About a month away from launching so I'm staying busy, otherwise I'd be a wreck.

Man, I feel for you and am sorry for your loss. Sounds like she was your soul mate. I cannot imagine life without my wife. After 2 failed marriages, she's a God send and a real doll. Thank you for all your help on here...
 
22nd of September (professors birthday lol) is the Fall equinox, 12/12. However you should be ok to leave them out almost anytime depending on how much sunlight they have during the day. If they have a bit of shade where they're at you should be OK, they know falls coming and would most likely be going into flower now, or very soon. The farther north you are the safer you are. I'd rather chance it then develop molds on them. Check with other growers in your area with outdoor girls and see if they are starting to show flowering. Another two weeks max would be my guess.
I have a question....When or is it safe to go back to the normal days and nights for my induced flowering outdoor plants. They clearing have fairly large buds and I have been covering them every night for a little over a month. There is alot of moisture dripping on them when I remove the cover in the morning....I just don't want them to go back to the veggie state...I have worked to hard for that to happen...I hope this makes sense to you...I really need help..if you have any questions or advice that would be great. Thanks
 
KISS, you're over thinking it. Next time just purchace a cactus blend soil and plant directly. No mixing or messing around, LESS IS MORE. A drink or two of Olivias in their water won't hurt a thing. Other then that let them be the weeds that they are for a while and just settle in to their new home. My shelf during a soil grow has a bottle of Botanicares Natures Blend for soil on it. That's it if that tells you anything. Save your money for more light or C02. I see this all the time with newer growers, they want to give their girls everything all the time, it would be cheaper just to buy the herb. You'll get much more in the way of yields paying attention to your light. Strain, size of rootball, and light are the three things that have a direct impact on yields. Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS) good advice for new growers, remember all these manufactueres are trying to seperate you from your money. Which is fine, we all need to make a living but it doesn't mean you have to buy it all. Try it my way and you'll have a fatter yield and a fatter wallet.
After germing I put my seeds in a mix of 1/3 soil, 1/3 perlite, and 1/3 mulch.I micro. the mulch to kill bugs and flush the mix twice.Would it help my starts if I were to mix some rooting powder with h2o and moisten the soil befor I put the seeds in? Would it help if I watered the soil with a mix of h2o and Mycorrhizal funge/microbes before putting the seeds in the soil? Or maybe add both? Thanks for any help.
 

overgrowem

Well-Known Member
Prof MJ, i have a question for you. (Soil grow) I popped a bean in a paper towel and went straight into promix bx, it broke the soil 1/4", stopped cold in its track for 4 days. it didnt even shed the hull so i figure it damped off. There was a little bit of white fuzz at the soil line. So i'm starting over. As hard as it is to get $20 beans, when the next one comes out of the paper towel, what kind of medium should it go in? Rockwool, Jiffy puck, etc? I think the promix (with a little worm castings) is maybe staying to moist, so what would you suggest? Ive NEVER had any damping off problems and never really given it any thought to (or had any troubles in) the first couple weeks. Thanks in advance, its nice to have someone to ask.
Had the same prob..Popped a bean,grew about 3/4 inch in 2 days,stopped dead 5 days,still had husk but no white fuzz.Need male for seed run so I didn't give up on it.Started giving more h2O.and moved to an A/Ced room(veg. room was about 80F.).Well it got going again.Thinking this plant may not be to pretty,but if it is a male I will be overjoyed..
 

overgrowem

Well-Known Member
Hello to all, after losing my wife several months ago I am now returning to try and help out those who seek my advice. After 43 years of cultivating I have uncovered some, but certainly not all of the questions/answers. If I can be of help in clearing up any questions you might have please feel free to ask.
Thanks and glad to be back.
Instead of posting my bio you can just check my profile.
Thanks Dana
popped a bean 2 days ago put it under a cfl. next to a start 5 days older.this guy is taking off,it is 3 times the hieght of the older plant,The cotalyden leaves did not open and are being forced apart by the regular leaves,the stem is thick enough.anyone know what to expect from this plant.
 

imchucky666

Well-Known Member
Hello to all, after losing my wife several months ago I am now returning to try and help out those who seek my advice. After 43 years of cultivating I have uncovered some, but certainly not all of the questions/answers. If I can be of help in clearing up any questions you might have please feel free to ask.
Thanks and glad to be back.
Instead of posting my bio you can just check my profile.
Thanks Dana
Sorry for your loss.
I'm a newbie, and look forward to meeting another wise man.
 

4 the love of ganja

Active Member
I'm sorry for your loss,
I have been doing some thinking and my question is
I'm just curious I see a lot of people when they take a cutting they cut the leaves in half due to the fact that it cannot support the leaf nutrition wise and perspiration as it has no roots but yet again I see so many clones where they don't cut any leaves and I see no adverse affect. I know everybody has there own way of thinking whats best but seeing that you grow from clone and especially 120 of them im assuming that you are very down to your technique. I have taken plenty of succesful clones but I am constantly trying to improve what i do and i would like to know your take on this and the process your cutting undergoes during cloning.
 

obijohn

Well-Known Member
I have a sneaking suspicion that a def is out of the question, I would bet you're giving them all they can use and then some. LESS IS MORE PEOPLE. KISS
We have hardly given them anything in the past few weeks, and it's happening again. On some leaves it starts with yellowing in the middle of the leaf, and sometimes with a rust color. End result is the same tho, white bleached areas. And it tends be stay on one side of the leaf or another.
 

stbjrb

Well-Known Member
Hey Professor hows it going? I have a question for you. I read a few pages back that you suggested someone get a 400w digital ballast, Ive heard a few cases where people are having cable and internet issues with digital ballasts. Should I get a digital balast or a magnetic? I dont want to have to deal with the cable company part way into a grow.
 
Professor, I have been wondering if when pruning lower shoot that dont receive much light would it be better to leave the fan leaf and just cut off the shoot or is it best to just remove it all? I usually remove everything from at least the bottom quarter of the plant and some lower mini bud sites that always end up just getting swallowed by large colas and receive sub-par lighting. But am just curious if leaving the large fan leafs would transport more energy to the top of the branch.
 

Red1966

Well-Known Member
We'll be fine, things take on new meaning in my world now, hate if they must, that's cool. Glad to help as much as I can. View attachment 2248881View attachment 2248882
Having lost my family long ago, I can tell you that the experience will color your view of the world for the rest of your life. I can't say this is good or bad, just that it is. In time, the hurt lessens, but will always be with you. Good luck to you.
 

Red1966

Well-Known Member
Hey Professor hows it going? I have a question for you. I read a few pages back that you suggested someone get a 400w digital ballast, Ive heard a few cases where people are having cable and internet issues with digital ballasts. Should I get a digital balast or a magnetic? I dont want to have to deal with the cable company part way into a grow.
The better ballasts have internal shielding to reduce interference, but they will cost a little more. BGhydro and Growurks were selling dimable Lumatek 600w for less than $160
 

obijohn

Well-Known Member
Hey Professor, here are new pics from the grow I'm helping with. Details, outside in Ocean Forest, these particular ones are in 10 gallon pots. I looks kind of like nute burn, but when we have had nute burn in the past it started on the tips and edges, all the problems we've been having start in the middle of the leaf. Usually they yellow, then bleach out white. These re a bit different, they start brown. Aside from the spots you see, a few of the leaves are kind of bronzing.

And they havent really been fed much in weeks. Vermi T every now and then, and about a quarter dose of Tiger Bloom and same with Grow Big maybe once a week since they are budding. We figured its better to cut feeding way back until an obvious deficiency shows up versus over feeding. She has two of the same strains from cuttings, and one is more affected than the other, but both get the same light feeding. The other strains do the same thing, but yellow to white, also in the middle of the leaves like this, last pic shows that issue. The bulk of the other plants arent as bad as the last pic looks, it was just a bad area




 

george xxx

Active Member
popped a bean 2 days ago put it under a cfl. next to a start 5 days older.this guy is taking off,it is 3 times the hieght of the older plant,The cotalyden leaves did not open and are being forced apart by the regular leaves,the stem is thick enough.anyone know what to expect from this plant.
No pic but sounds like accelerated height because the light may be too far away. If it gets tall and spindly it will fall over and fail to grow until the problem is corrected. Cotalyden leaf issues may cause irregular leaf growth but it should grow out of it in accordence with your growing practices.
 

george xxx

Active Member
Hey Professor, .... Usually they yellow, then bleach out white. bronzing.

but yellow to white, also in the middle of the leaves like this, last pic shows that issue. The bulk of the other plants arent as bad as the last pic looks, it was just a bad area
Don't know what the professor will say but I was looking and your description does not seem to match pictures. Pale yellow turning white sounds like chlorosis from insufficient mag. I'm going to check back to see what he has to say.
 
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