PugButt's First Grow - Advice Needed

get rid of the clear one. too much heat, too little light.

and as i said, no; you will still have to feed, read the post above; and make a thread. pm me if i don't find you.

i was gunna say it raised the temp about 5 degrees, when is a good time to start nutes?

at three nodes (not including cotyledons)

cotyledons? And how many more cfls do you think you need for 7 plants?

Here is a full picture of my plant..
I got the PH messed up. It was actually right at 7. And the water Ive been watering with is around 6-6.5.

I dont use that UV bulb on the plant anymore since I read that it really does nothing. Only good for desert lizards I guess

I was going to put it to flower now. Since I dont want a 7 foot tall plant by the end of it all. What do you guys think?

Im not sure about the temps.. It has a fan going on it, and the room its in doesnt get over 80F.. It seems to be doing better today..

If I got more lights, what color temp would y'all recommend? More 6500ks? As I said, Im looking to flower soon, so maybe more 3500ks? Or 3000ks? Now I just have to figure out how to get them to shine on them without a bunch of clip lamps impeeding on eachother..

I just uploaded pics from throughout the grow into the gallery if interested. Learn from my mistakes

looks good. not to familiar with cfl's i just use them to veg.

For most pot plants you need approx 6,000 Lumens to flower. You have 5 1300 Lumen CFL bulbs which = 6500 Lumens, So you should be fine. If you wanted to help it out even more once you start the flowering process Replace the 6500K bulbs with 3500 or 3000K bulbs. They shine brighter in the red wavelength which is what flowering plants need the most of. Your using mexican bat guano right now which is great for vegging' plants, after a week or so of being in the 12/12 light cycle start using light amounts of Jamacian bat guano which is best for budding / flowering. Start off easy on the bat shit and work your way up to avoid root burn. CFL's are sufficient for budding plants if you have enough lumens. I've seen a few grows with 2-3 plants and 9 CFLs produce some nice dank buds.

The lights are 1600 lumens each I belive

DanJos3 said:

cotyledons? And how many more cfls do you think you need for 7 plants?

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at least five cfl's per plant, imo. cotyledons are bean leaves; the first set of round leaves that come out with the sprout. they provide initial nutrients to the plant as it establishes itself.

PugButt said:

I dont use that UV bulb on the plant anymore since I read that it really does nothing. Only good for desert lizards I guess

I was going to put it to flower now. Since I dont want a 7 foot tall plant by the end of it all. What do you guys think?

If I got more lights, what color temp would y'all recommend? More 6500ks? As I said, Im looking to flower soon, so maybe more 3500ks? Or 3000ks?

Click to expand...

uva is useless, uvb increases resin production in flower, and yes, it realy does work.

flower now.

as you are prepping for flower, invest in warm cfl's, 3000k or less.

VikingToker said:

For most pot plants you need approx 6,000 Lumens to flower.

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the more light, the better, i try for 20,000lum min per square foot.

also, this is how lumens are measured. one lumen is the amount of light emmited from one candle, that falls on a 1sf area from a distance of one foot.

therefore, if your cfl's are closer than a foot (as well they should be) you actually have more lumens than what is displayed on the package.

hope that helps

kp

kindprincess said:

uva is useless, uvb increases resin production in flower, and yes, it realy does work.

flower now.

as you are prepping for flower, invest in warm cfl's, 3000k or less.

Click to expand...

Cool, I have the Repti Glo 8.0. The one that puts out the most UVB rays out of the Repti Glo series

Ugh, I guess I might invest in other lights. Would it still flower with the setup I have now? With the 6500k and 5500ks?

yes, it will still flower, you will have less stretch, and tighter, more compact buds, but you will yeild less than with warm spec. adding some kitchen and bath tubes or cfl's will help with yeild, even if it's only a few. i use mh and hps in flower, mh for the first four weeks, hps to finish.

Ok, I got a new light setup in mind..

I have 2 of these V adapter things..
Now, I have a 6500k on top, 2 5500ks on the sides, and a 3000k & 3500k on the sides aswell.. I also have a area with 2 seedlings with only one 6500k (in need of more light)

Since I am going to flower, I am going to use a V, take the 6500k off of the top, and make a double 6500k light and put it with my seedlings.

I am then going to take the 2 5500ks and use another V to make a double 5500k on top of the plant. I bought a 3 pack of 2700ks and I am going to put them around the sides of the plant.

This is my projected flowering setup. What do you think? I wanted it so it wouldnt stretch as much as if I were just using 2700k bulbs.

imo, the 5500k (plant and aquarium) bulbs are not quite the right spectrum. some 6500's and 3000's will work great to supplement each other, but if you can replace the 55's, i think your outcome will be better. 6500k will deff help lower the amount of stretch, but i don't use p+a bulbs for plants; i use them on my gecko cages. they're a little too "pink" for greatest growth results.

I looked it up, and the lights are actually 2700ks, not 3000ks. Hope this doesnt throw a monkey wrench into my plan..

This is bullsh*t! I bought those 5500ks in vein. I didnt buy them labeled as Plant and Aquarium. But I guess they are one in the same. They were at Lowes and were just marked 26w 5500k.

the 2700's are great, better than 3000k, as the spectrum is more red, closer to that of hps (2300-2700)

the 5500's WILL work, but they arent the best, that's all i meant. you can buy a four pack of 3000k 23w for around ten bucks. that's what i use for my cfl experiments that i did for my book.

Will the 5500k slow the stretching at all? I kinda did elementary figuring I guess. I figured that the 6500k would slow the stretching the most. The 5500k would medium slow them down, and the 3000k or whatnot would be least effective in preventing stretching.

I was going for something in the middle

hmmm, well, that gets kinda tricky to explain, as i don't have any charts i could show you. diferent plants like different spectrums. cannabis likes 6200-6600 and 2300-3000. in between is not what the plant wants, a combination of the two is.

do you see what i mean? i'm tired, and i'm confusing myself even...

I know what you mean.. haha

Thanks

I didnt water the plant for a couple days, untill the soil was dry. And the new growth is coming in great!

I also put in a new lighting configuration. I have a V with 2 6500k CFLs on top, and around it I have 3 2700k CFLs and one more 3000k CFL surrounding the plant. And a UVB tube standing on the side of the plant.

Hopefully this little rig I have set up will get me through flowering.. I just want to get something out of this plant (granted its a female and doesnt turn hermi on me from messing with the lights so much)

I have good news, and bad news..

The good news, is that my plant is a girl. (Pic 1)

The bad news is. My plant has a messed up goofy side to it.. And I dont know what the hell is going on with it. One side of the plant looks healthy, nice and full. Then turn the plant around, and the leafs are all bent down and canoe'd, and have narrow sharp fingers. Maybe I have not waited long enough for it to recover from overwatering, or whatever I did to cause that.

Pic 2 = Healthy Side
Pic 3 = Goofy Side

What could this be? A nute issue (look at the tips of the leafs, they are getting droopy, but the pic was also taken 20 mins before lights out, and is usually starts to go to sleep at that time)? I want to start it on some Fox Farms Big Bloom, or something. But am afraid that I will shock the plant because of the nutes already in the time release junk of MG soil..

What shall I do!? Cut the freak leafs off?
How about cloning it? Could I do that at this time? Since I know its a fem?