Question about a 1000w Gavita DE

Yo guys,

So I’m currently running a Gavita CT 2000e LED fixture at the moment. It’s pretty cold where I am so I have to run it with an oil filled heater which is in the room to raise ambient temps.

Until recently, I’ve been running my day time temps around 23-25°c. After some research I’ve found out that running these temps is too low? The ambient temperature when running LED should be a lot higher from what I’ve read due to them not giving off as much radiant heat to the canopy when using HPS, causing the plants to transpire less and resulting in slower growth.

At the moment I’m running the LED with the heater on max at 28°c and it’s still not getting the temps up, it’s staying constant at 25-26°c

I’ve even tried turning the fan controller down to 15% to keep the heat in but it’s not getting any higher.

I’m thinking of swapping the LED out while it’s cold and changing it to a Gavita 1000w DE

To anyone who runs the 1000w HPS, how much does one light with the ballast attached raise the ambient temp? I’m thinking I can get away with not putting the heater on then, so it saves on my electricity!

Room is 4m2 with height around 2m

Do you think it’s worth swapping out or just leaving as is?

Any help would be appreciated!

I don't know about that light specifically, it it's fairly common for people in colder climates to run HID during the cold months and LED during the warmer months.

Nope_49595933949 said:

I don't know about that light specifically, it it's fairly common for people in colder climates to run HID during the cold months and LED during the warmer months.

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Yeah I think I’ve messed up tbh with getting the LED instead of the HPS at this point.

It’s a relatively new fitting… It’s a like for like for the Gavita 1000w HPS or so they say!

Getting 25-26c ime you've nothing to be concerned about.

Don't know the exact answer for you, but I have a friend in a similar situation.

He lives in a house in Vegas, with a 4x4 setup in the garage. He runs a 750 DE during the winter. During summer, he runs an Optic Slim 500. It's 480 watts, but Optic just stopped making them. Don't know why - they were perfect for 4x4 tents in hot climates. Meiju will build you a copy though - minus the individual dimmers.

He just shuts everything during August/September.

Or get one of the big(750 watt+) bar lights, run it full blast in winter, and dim during summer.

I think a few companies make 1000 watt rigs.

But DEs are cheap.

Excellent question, I actually use this method in the winters of Michigan. I run a 1000w DE HPS + my usual 6 LED fixtures to keep temps above 70. Honestly, if temps are staying above 70 especially in flower you're okay. Just make sure humidity is staying low too. But if you really want, get a 1000w double ender they will warm up the room and honestly it might warm it too much considering how warm an LED is making your room.

Look up the actual BTU output of each light so you know if there's a huge difference or not, also consider HPS will actually heat plants hotter than the air temp depending on spacing so that can actually become a problem.

More lights for heat is definitely better than running heaters, if you can add another LED and that should take care of it and be an upgrade at the same time vs replacing LED to HPS and having to change everything around including feed strength, light spacing etc etc..

Also keep in mind most if not all 1000w DE HPS are going to be 240v, not sure if your running your LED @ 240 volts or not. You will need a special timer/controller to power a 240v light.

calvin.m16 said:

Excellent question, I actually use this method in the winters of Michigan. I run a 1000w DE HPS + my usual 6 LED fixtures to keep temps above 70. Honestly, if temps are staying above 70 especially in flower you're okay. Just make sure humidity is staying low too. But if you really want, get a 1000w double ender they will warm up the room and honestly it might warm it too much considering how warm an LED is making your room.

Look up the actual BTU output of each light so you know if there's a huge difference or not, also consider HPS will actually heat plants hotter than the air temp depending on spacing so that can actually become a problem.

More lights for heat is definitely better than running heaters, if you can add another LED and that should take care of it and be an upgrade at the same time vs replacing LED to HPS and having to change everything around including feed strength, light spacing etc etc..

Also keep in mind most if not all 1000w DE HPS are going to be 240v, not sure if your running your LED @ 240 volts or not. You will need a special timer/controller to power a 240v light.

View attachment 5255756

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I'd love a room that size, I'd love to have comfortable standing room instead of ducking and weaving around fans, light,s a dehumidifier among other things, it's task doing anything in the tent when I'm in full flower.

calvin.m16 said:

Excellent question, I actually use this method in the winters of Michigan. I run a 1000w DE HPS + my usual 6 LED fixtures to keep temps above 70. Honestly, if temps are staying above 70 especially in flower you're okay. Just make sure humidity is staying low too. But if you really want, get a 1000w double ender they will warm up the room and honestly it might warm it too much considering how warm an LED is making your room.

Look up the actual BTU output of each light so you know if there's a huge difference or not, also consider HPS will actually heat plants hotter than the air temp depending on spacing so that can actually become a problem.

More lights for heat is definitely better than running heaters, if you can add another LED and that should take care of it and be an upgrade at the same time vs replacing LED to HPS and having to change everything around including feed strength, light spacing etc etc..

Also keep in mind most if not all 1000w DE HPS are going to be 240v, not sure if your running your LED @ 240 volts or not. You will need a special timer/controller to power a 240v light.

View attachment 5255756

Click to expand...

Thank you for this brother, some good info.

The other thing I never took into consideration on this first one with LED is that I’ve been feeding the normal feed I would do under HPS and no they are showing signs of N toxicity which is a nightmare.

Been flushing with calmag for the last 3 feeds now and new growth is still showing signs of over feeding.

nice looking room btw! Reminds me of Gus Frings lab (if your familiar) haha

calvin.m16 said:

Look up the actual BTU output of each light so you know if there's a huge difference or not, also consider HPS will actually heat plants hotter than the air temp depending on spacing so that can actually become a problem.
.....

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There is no BTU difference, a watt is a watt.
1 watt = 3.41 BTUs regardless whether the watts are coming from an LED light, an HPS light, or a toaster oven.

I’m not good at Celsius conversion. But you wanna be above 80-83 F with the led. I run both led and double ended in different rooms. The nice thing about the de 1k in your situation is that room temps don’t need to be as warm as the lights radiate heat and help the plants transpire without as high of room temp.

Feeding is different under leds, but you gotta get the temp up so they will transpire at a good rate. I have to supplement cal/mag in led room and feed higher overall ppm.

Apalchen said:

I’m not good at Celsius conversion. But you wanna be above 80-83 F with the led. I run both led and double ended in different rooms. The nice thing about the de 1k in your situation is that room temps don’t need to be as warm as the lights radiate heat and help the plants transpire without as high of room temp.

Feeding is different under leds, but you gotta get the temp up so they will transpire at a good rate. I have to supplement cal/mag in led room and feed higher overall ppm.

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Thanks man, my temps range from 75-79f I can’t get it any higher than that as my oil filled rad only goes up to 82f on the thermostat, the room never reaches the max temp as I’ve got my extract on 20% to keep humidity down.

humidity is 62-68% at the min in veg.

I’m supplementing calmag too, but actually flushing with it at the moment as N toxicity is showing. Because the temps are lower I’m thinking they haven’t been transpiring as much hence why I should of been feeding lower amounts.

All a learning curve, this is my first time under LED so everything that could of gone wrong has this time has… ha

Billy the Mountain said:

There is no BTU difference, a watt is a watt.
1 watt = 3.41 BTUs regardless whether the watts are coming from an LED light, an HPS light, or a toaster oven.

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Incorrect, that conversion factor varies depending on source of watts. 1 watt from LED produces less BTU than 1 watt from HPS and many electrical components are more or less efficient when it comes to energy transfer and heat output. I know that from basic computer building.

calvin.m16 said:

Incorrect, that conversion factor varies depending on source of watts. 1 watt from LED produces less BTU than 1 watt from HPS bulb or a radio controller, wireless router, dehumidifier etc.. Your Keeping It Way Too Simple KIWTS to a smooth brain level.

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How exactly is 1 watt of led different in btu’s?

bk78 said:

How exactly is 1 watt of led different in btu’s?

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3.41 BTU per watt is a general approximation. When comparing completely different technologies the heat output changes.

calvin.m16 said:

3.41 BTU per watt is a general approximation. When comparing completely different technologies the heat output changes.

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Neat

So you agree they are all within close range it’s pretty much negligible then ?

bk78 said:

Neat

So you agree they are all within close range it’s pretty much negligible then ?

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Digging deeper, yeah looks like the only major difference is how they expel the heat itself and not the final BTU/watt. Any sources that are giving big differences in actual BTU/watt are selling LED lights so that isn't to be trusted.

calvin.m16 said:

Incorrect, that conversion factor varies depending on source of watts. 1 watt from LED produces less BTU than 1 watt from HPS and many electrical components are more or less efficient when it comes to energy transfer and heat output. I know that from basic computer building.

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Try again

Any other bits of wisdom you'd like to share?

1 watt = 3.41 BTUs, regardless of the source, it's not an approximation

You're entitled to your own opinion, but not your own facts

Try this: