Why don't you just buy the IBA and NAA? you can get them online and at amazon.I looked up the woods, it's IBA (1%), NAA (.66%), Isopropyl (36%) and water (61%) so it appears that Isopropyl will work OK.
I tried to see how well it dissolved and there are still a lot of undissolved solids. I wonder if it is the 99.99% "inactive" ingredients and they aren't soluble in water or Isopropyl.
Lol- at first I thought you were talking about some commercially available aero-setup, was getting ready to say "here we go again"- ... Looking at the small percentages in the bottle, I would think it might be easier to just use the brand name mixture for our small needs.Why don't you just buy the IBA and NAA? you can get them online and at amazon.
It sure wasn't for lack of tryingYou could have easily killed em all your first run...
I did that, not a lot of differences, I'll have to go back and see what they were. If i remember correctly only part of the GA for the flower and veg formulas were posted so not certain that I got everything in the canna accounted for.Since the canna regimen Atomizer listed is complete and known to yield healthy plants, perhaps you could compare those numbers to yours and see if there's any glaring differences...
I calibrate once a month, it was off by .15 before I recalibrated it.I've seen it happen enough times to people to mention to make sure your ph/tds meter is properly calibrated,
I'm using bleach, 4-6 drops per gallon. Mine started taking off after I realized that what I thought was nute burn was actually a mg def.and what sort of sterilizer you using? I think at minimum a kiss of peroxide would be a good idea... My roots didn't look infected, but just weren't growing much, once I added 6 drops bleach/gallon- they really started taking off and the whole plant looked healthier.
I'm using the DMFit inline JG filter (100 mesh I think).Are you using a filter for nutes- I can't recall from memory? If so what exactly?
I have been noticing some salt buildup around the O-rings that hold the misters in place since I started adding the Epsom. I'm dissolving it in hot water before I add it but I wonder if that is enough. The Tefen must have a smaller orifice, from the markings (07 80F) I'm guessing that the orifice is .07mm (80 = spray angle & F = CV) but I can't find anything to confirm that.The nutes we use are so low in salts and at such low levels, I find it hard to believe nozzles would clog. Although the biocontrols being impingement nozzles have a larger orifice, and the cloudtops might be super small, I seem to remember tree farmer stating this as one of the benefits of the Bio-controls in not ever clogging.
I believe you're right about how to read the nozzles, if my memory serves me right back to Cav's thread. I think with more filtration, none will be an issue. The epson salt would present more of an issue, I would think, since it is sulfated, and we all know how sulphur likes to crystallize. The higher end nutes seem to have very little salts in them, even though your chosen nutes are good, the fact you're having to add epsom may be an issue for your nozzles... Perhaps a dash of dynagro-magpro or something similar could sort it out better?I'm using the DMFit inline JG filter (100 mesh I think). I'm using a 1 micron whole house cartridge filter, seems to work like a charm. You may want to at least consider additionally pouring your nutes through a 1 micron filter bad like Atomizes does, I bought one from one of the water filter companies for only $3, and haven't need for it yet.
I have been noticing some salt buildup around the O-rings that hold the misters in place since I started adding the Epsom. I'm dissolving it in hot water before I add it but I wonder if that is enough. The Tefen must have a smaller orifice, from the markings (07 80F) I'm guessing that the orifice is .07mm (80 = spray angle & F = CV) but I can't find anything to confirm that.
Yep, the epsom is an issue and what really confuses me is that Jacks is higher in Mg than the Canna. It makes me think I might be misinterpreting what is deficient. I may have just gotten lucky in that I also upped the rest of the nutes as well. I'm wondering if I was actually to low on the N, some of the pictures I look at make it really hard for me to tell what the real problem is. The subtle differences in appearance are lost on meThe epson salt would present more of an issue, I would think, since it is sulfated, and we all know how sulphur likes to crystallize. The higher end nutes seem to have very little salts in them, even though your chosen nutes are good, the fact you're having to add epsom may be an issue for your nozzles... Perhaps a dash of dynagro-magpro or something similar could sort it out better?
Yes, knowing your plant and supplying it's needs is a real art. It could be other things like ph, some sort of bad microbes, not enough o2 to the roots, enough fresh air, lighting, or temps, although I suspect you have those all taken care of by your previous responses. If all else fails, it might be worth breaking down for the canna- only because it should eliminate any nute variables other than concentration. I got the 1l bottles- only 30ish bucks for the A/B set on Amazon, and even that size should last quite a while. Your roots look healthy and like they are getting proper coverage, so I suppose one day we'll all hear you mention some oddball varaible you've changed, and it all started working out. I hope you find it soon r0m...Yep, the epsom is an issue and what really confuses me is that Jacks is higher in Mg than the Canna. It makes me think I might be misinterpreting what is deficient. I may have just gotten lucky in that I also upped the rest of the nutes as well. I'm wondering if I was actually to low on the N, some of the pictures I look at make it really hard for me to tell what the real problem is. The subtle differences in appearance are lost on me
I'll keep at it, Hopefully you are right....Yes, knowing your plant and supplying it's needs is a real art. It could be other things like ph, some sort of bad microbes, not enough o2 to the roots, enough fresh air, lighting, or temps, although I suspect you have those all taken care of by your previous responses. If all else fails, it might be worth breaking down for the canna- only because it should eliminate any nute variables other than concentration. I got the 1l bottles- only 30ish bucks for the A/B set on Amazon, and even that size should last quite a while. Your roots look healthy and like they are getting proper coverage, so I suppose one day we'll all hear you mention some oddball varaible you've changed, and it all started working out. I hope you find it soon r0m...
I'd be interested if you could tell me what it is you see in the photos that makes you say that. I'm not challenging your statement, just trying to learn what it is you are seeing.I'd say you possibly have a potassium deficiency, but that's just my best observation from your previous weeks photos. Since you're blooming I'd bet those flowers would like more K
This is where I have problems. All of the defeciencies seem to start with brown tips, the leaves being lighter on the edges then yellowing and eventually turning brown and dieing. I just don't see the differences as being distinct.In week 12; the tips of the newer leaves look brown and the edges or leaves seem light green. Based on a def./burn guide and the change to 12/12 and bloom; I'd guess at the problem.
I've been using the cannastats spreadsheet to compare and determine the concentration of my nutes. I haven't looked into HydroBuddy, Have you compared the two?You likely know better and probably got a good feed formula so you'd know if it was lacking anything else, PH is likely 5.8. The only thing I recommend is HydroBuddy you can enter any; multiple off the shelf nute. solutions from a hydro shop in and set a few parameters in PPM and it will calculate weight or volume of solution to mix from each different product to get your own mix. I love it; takes time to setup after that smooth sailing.
I'll have to look into this thanks. One question, from the screen shot it looks like it gives you mixes for basic salts. Does it allow you to enter premixed solutions?Once I enter the products in though, ppm here, there, and pretty soon I know in ml how much liquid solution to add from each bottle to get an ideal ppm and nute solution per gallon or res size. Very flexible program.
I'll have to go back and look at the descriptions again, I'm just not getting all of those factors when I read them.Well part of the trouble shooting in new versus old leaf, or all leaves. Location/ pattern/ color all indicate either burn or deficiency but if you did a good job designing the solution; then measuring ph maintaining no nute lockout. I made a worksheet with all the characteristics to look on; and use my best logic when considering the possibilities on what def is the most likely; which will tend the be the most needed.