80's tech?That halide bulb wont last long being ran base up. Very, very few MH lamps are rated for anything but horizontal burn. If it's a BU/U rated bulb then you are good.
It's about the lamp itself, some arc tubes react poorly to being in the wrong orientation. There are MH lamps that are designed for base up operation, these can't be ran horizontal. Most HPS lamps are universal and don't care. It's MH lamps that are most often one or the other, very few if any universal MH lamps.80's tech?
"Installing MH lamps in a base-up position generally gives the best results in terms of minimizing color variation and maximizing lamp life"
Nowadays they have discovered digital ballasts.
From what I understand the versatile MH is supposed to be MH Conversion bulb or in his case SwitchStart. The old style is simply MH that won't strike on HPS ballast. I think that is correct.It's about the lamp itself, some arc tubes react poorly to being in the wrong orientation. There are MH lamps that are designed for base up operation, these can't be ran horizontal. Most HPS lamps are universal and don't care. It's MH lamps that are most often one or the other, very few if any universal MH lamps.
Depends on the ballast. Most modern digital style ballasts will run HPS or MH with no need for a conversion lamp.From what I understand the versatile MH is supposed to be MH Conversion bulb or in his case SwitchStart. The old style is simply MH that won't strike on HPS ballast. I think that is correct.
isn't it possible to recognize if it's a vertical or horizontal lamp by the looks of the interior? what exactly is the difference there? I think the OP has the BUI know there is a Philips MP1000/BU model that is designed for base up operation. The straight MP1000 is horizontal.
It's the design of the arc tube, not exactly sure what the manufacturing difference is, I've never compared the two. If his lamp has lasted more than a few days in the base up position then it is a base up lamp. I know from experience. I had ordered some 400w lights that came with both HPS and MH lamps. I use these on the ends of my rows, batwing hung vertically. The HPS lamps ran fine with the base up but I wasn't thinking when I stuck the MH lamps in for ripening. One lamp peached off after just a few hours, another went by the wayside the next day, thats when I remembered that MH lamps are rarely universal and that the MH lamps I had were horizontal type (most common).isn't it possible to recognize if it's a vertical or horizontal lamp by the looks of the interior? what exactly is the difference there? I think the OP has the BU
I can't agree with anything you said there.The technology has evolved on MH HPS ballasts and lamps and they still outgrow LEDs by far but LEDs are cheaper and they give them away these days.
I don't see paying an 1000$ for someone to put together 50$ of LEDs. Build your own but I'm happy using 600 watts or less for 80 watts or more per square feet with hoods and digital ballasts.I can't agree with anything you said there.
Quality LED is anything but cheap. The crap they sell cheap is not the same as the good LED. I have seen what can be done with high quality LED lighting and it's amazing. Thing is you have to dial your temps up under LED due to the lack of infrared. With a good LED light and properly tuned environment you can achieve the same yields per sqft as HPS and the quality of the flower is excellent. 30 years with HPS under my belt and I was a hard one for LED to win over. Only recently in the last few years has LED made it to a level that I can say what I am saying. I have seen it in my own grows and in others. Please know that I am not talking about blurples and the like. I am talking about a quality LED like Timber, HLG, Gavita...
You can't even come close with LEDsI don't see paying an 1000$ for someone to put together 50$ of LEDs. Build your own but I'm happy using 600 watts or less for 80 watts or more per square feet with hoods and digital ballasts.
holy shit what a waste of wattage. beyond 60 watts per sqft with HPS you don't gain anything even with CO2.for 80 watts or more per square feet with hoods and digital ballasts.
Wrong. Just plain wrong. Speak for yourself.You can't even come close with LEDs
LM301B chips aren't cheap like the garbage you speak of.I don't see paying an 1000$ for someone to put together 50$ of LEDs.