RDWC vs Single Site RDWC

I forgot to mention.. The CANTEX version pvc fittings (usually what HomeDepot stocks) are complete garbage. Burs everywhere, some kind of cheap splattered on paint job, and the 2 halves of the whole fitting itself don't even line up! Stay away.

CARLON is the brand you are after. Good quality fittings.

Drop That Sound said:

I glue the males to the pipes only, and use the female on the inside as the lock nut. Helps when lining up and fitting all the plumbing too, being able to stick the male threads in the container holes, before adding the females to lock them in place.

The o-ring goes on the outside with the male, because otherwise it would leak...there's no reason at all really to add another o ring inside. Just the one on the ouside seals everything. The fitting and pipe in the ouside are already glued so no worries there


And guys I wouldnt try it on a round bucket, unless you do like I do. Use parchment paper, a couple clothes irons without steam, and wood 4x4 post that fits in the bottom of the bucket to heat form and melt the round plastic by pressing the irons into both sides to create flat square areas for the bulkheads first.. look up my "how to flatten a round bucket" thread on IC for more info, lol. Or just use uniseals, thats why they made them, mostly for round containers..

Click to expand...

What size hole saw did you use for your 2" diy bulkheads?

Mr_Manny_D said:

What size hole saw did you use for your 2" diy bulkheads?

Click to expand...

I couldn't find the exact size hole saw bit for a perfect fit, and all my kits I looked through were either to just to big or to small..

So I drilled the holes a size to small, and came back and sanded the holes until the male threads fit exact in the hole.

To do that I made a long cone like sanding attachment for my drill using a sheet of plastic hot glued around an old hole saw, and wrapped sand papers around it. The more you push in the bigger the hole gets, and also doesn't leave any burs but instead a nice smooth round hole. I just kept sanding until the male adapters fit in snug.

Kinda like this but on my drill:

Drop That Sound said:

If you use the o-ring on the outside the way I do it, there is no reason to use teflon tape, which wouldn't fit anyway and make it too tight to screw the female on all the way into the male like you want. Teflon is for regular tapered fittings that don't screw in all the way anyway to seal the threads..

The outside is sealed by the o-ring, where the only crack that water could possibly escape now is. The threads don't need to be sealed at all, all they are for is to hold the flanges and the o-ring (or washer) tight to the container which does all the sealing you need... And a damn good job of it too I must say, on a flat surface of course.
[/QUOTE

Click to expand...

Drop That Sound said:

View attachment 4632343

Click to expand...

Yup.
Question: So in essence, you do not have the hole so tight as to where you litterally "screw" these fittings in right? They are a loose fit, as to slide in. I ask bc attaching two buckets (screw in method) is hell because as you attach bucket #2, bucket #1 unscrews, as it's already cemented to the PVC. I also tried to screw in bucket#2 first, then cement the PVC but you can't push the the PVC in deep enough into the fitting, resulting in uneven bucket spacing.

Big enough to slide the male terminal fittings threaded section in. No screwing into a smaller hole, as that could cause an uneven surface, and a bad seal. There isn't much flange area to work with, or room for errors, gotta get the hole just right. I'll measure one of my holes tomorrow and see what they came out too.

I'm building yet another design. A compact 4 site under-current system, for a 4x4 tent.

For the 2" DIY conduit bulkheads, the size hole saw needed is 2-3/8". The nicer heavy duty kind (lennox, etc). It actually is perfect without sanding if you don't use the flimsier cheap hole saws that are thinner metal, and the teeth don't stick out as much...

First, drill a small pilot hole, on your mark, and with a smaller bit.

Then drill down into it evenly with the 2-3/8" hole saw in reverse. Get the RPMs up and just keep pushing till it basically melts through. Practice a few times on a scrap bucket if needed first. You kinda get a feel for it after a few holes. Before it cools off you can peel the top outside burrs off the hole with your finger nails. I use a box knife razor blade to trim the inside of the hole, keeping it pushed flat against the rim at a slight angle as I spin it around. Kinda of tricky to not cut in, and just skim it instead.Or your finger. I recommend a deburring tool if possible..

Then, the male terminal fitting threads slide right in. Keep the o-ring or gasket to the outside.

This is using Lowes 5 gallon "Commander" brand square buckets for the sites.