Re using FFOF??

Hey RIU

Recently I think I've just killed my five day old seedling from heat, and I'm considering just dropping a new bean. But my question is, can I take out the dead seedling and drop a new bean in the same old cup? Nothings been done to it except watering it twice. Thanks in advance!

If there's no added nutes which I'm assuming there isn't any added yea go head and drop the seed

Go for it.

Ocean Forest is not recommened for seedlings - too hot/strong. Start them in Light Warrior or dilute OF with coco and more perlite 50/50. Why do you think the first ones died from heat? Inside/outside, conditions?

Hey, thanks to everyone for their reply. To allthumbs, they died b/c my CFL clamp was drooping a little, and it burned my seedling within two minutes lol... Other than that, it was doing pretty well =[. And my FFOF is around 70/30 perlite.

R.I.P =(

The medium is hot. Better to use a sterile mix then transplant after a few weeks to a month

I use strait ocean forest on cuttings and seeds

^^ Same. When i was using ffof i never had a problem using it. 30 + beans straight into party cups with nothing added. Not to many but still. All though the advice about the light warrior is good. Then mix with ocean forest and perlite for final pots. Good Luck

^^ Also same. Granted it's just my first grow but the seedlings did just fine, as did my friends who also grew in Ocean Forest.

Depends on growing conditions and strain. It can burn seedlings, not so much fully rooted clones.

if you cant get a seed to germ or start in ffof you need new genetics. the nutes in it are slow release and that soil will would have worked great
. if anything you will have to add nutes in a few weeks. it w

allthumbs said:

Ocean Forest is not recommened for seedlings - too hot/strong. Start them in Light Warrior or dilute OF with coco and more perlite 50/50. Why do you think the first ones died from heat? Inside/outside, conditions?

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good potting soil is all u need to get started, dont over think with all sorts of costly chemicals and bull shit. i needlessly went thru the bottled nuets when i first started so its pretty common. organic now, havent used a ph meter or a scheduled measured feeding regimen in some time

I used FFOF Soil to start seeds and to plant germ. seeds. Germ. seed sprouted in 3 days and seed sprouted in 6 days, both plants are very healthy. I do mix perlite into the soil and if I have any dolimite lime powder I throw some in also. I also transplant clones grown in Coco directly into FFOF with no problems. I've come to believe that all the hype about FFOF being too hot is just not true.... From my experience anyway.

I've had rooted clones burnt pretty badly by ffof in the past. It may be that I got a hot spot in my bag or something idk, but it's not a bad idea to be careful and cut it a bit for young plants. older plants i have transplanted into ffof have, for the most part done very well.

I've transplanted older clones in veg stage and small baby clones with about 4 leaves in FFOF with no problems at all. Like I said I do cut it with perlite and I usually try to add some dolomite lime, but not always. I really don't know but maybe I haven't had any problems because all my clones are started indoors in a soiless medium with nutes. But I've never had problems with seeds or germinated seeds in FFOF.

jfart said:

if you cant get a seed to germ or start in ffof you need new genetics. the nutes in it are slow release and that soil will would have worked great
. if anything you will have to add nutes in a few weeks. it w

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The nutrients aren't exactly "slow release"; the soil is a proprietary blend and they don't list NPK, are not required to. It is a rich mix, though: composted forest humus*, sphagnum peat moss, Pacific Northwest sea-going fish emulsion, crab meal, shrimp meal, earthworm castings*, sandy loam*, perlite, fossilized bat guano, granite dust*, Norwegian kelp meal, oyster shell.

*Organic materials rich in microbes\nutrients or may have some nutrients, not so much as to burn plants. Granite dust may have very slow release K or even P.

The amendments in bold are the most nutrient-dense. Bat guano especially, can burn plants if over applied. Just as a for instance, say you got a batch that was improperly mixed and a bit hotter than usual. Or for someone growing with low light, low humidity or high heat.

I would opt for SAM#4 with earthworm castings, kelp meal added, anyways, and get the benefits of the mycorrhizae in the SAM#4.

Nullis said:

The nutrients aren't exactly "slow release"; the soil is a proprietary blend and they don't list NPK, are not required to. It is a rich mix, though: composted forest humus*, sphagnum peat moss, Pacific Northwest sea-going fish emulsion, crab meal, shrimp meal, earthworm castings*, sandy loam*, perlite, fossilized bat guano, granite dust*, Norwegian kelp meal, oyster shell.

*Organic materials rich in microbes\nutrients or may have some nutrients, not so much as to burn plants. Granite dust may have very slow release K or even P.

The amendments in bold are the most nutrient-dense. Bat guano especially, can burn plants if over applied. Just as a for instance, say you got a batch that was improperly mixed and a bit hotter than usual. Or for someone growing with low light, low humidity or high heat.

I would opt for SAM#4 with earthworm castings, kelp meal added, anyways, and get the benefits of the mycorrhizae in the SAM#4.

Click to expand...

Good info on the ffof BUT most if not all organic nutrients like the ones you mentioned are slow release. What do you mean by " The nutrients aren't exactly "slow release" ". I cant think of any organic nutrients that are not. None of those help the plant right away. It takes time. And by the way. Had some left over ffof and started some beans 5 days ago. All ready have 2 sprouted.

Here is how it breaks down: when you have a nutrient rich organic material, like say a manure or guano, you're going to have various nutrients in different forms (chemically speaking). Bat guano is a very good example of an organic nutrient which can burn, and is certainly not "slow release", while a portion of the nitrogen it contains may be 'insoluble' which would mean not immediately plant available, much of it will be, depending on the particular source of the guano.

Once applied to soil, the remaining "insoluble" portion will become available via microbial action, and this can happen quite rapidly. Soluble N comes in two forms, ammonium (NH4+) and nitrate (NO3-). Sometimes there is urea in certain fertilizer products, and this is broken down by microbes into NH4+. Different kinds of microbes will take ammonium and turn it into nitrate. Ammonia-nitrogen especially can burn if it becomes concentrated in plant tissues.

The fish emulsion also contains significant amounts of soluble N, with an NPK of about 5-1-1 or 5-2-2. It depends what the organic nutrient is, in particular. Some or much of the nutrient content may be available relatively quickly. Also, I do believe the OF used to have a couple other ingredients... I remember something along the lines of "vermicultural compost derived from poultry litter/bedding" being listed but it's not with the ingredients on my more recently purchased bags.

Nullis now I see what you meant. Thanks for clearing that up. Great post.