Real Organics

VTMi'kmaq

Well-Known Member
Well, I think its time to hit the peppers with some real nutrient levels. The cots are yellowing and its their way of saying, im out of food asshole, feed me. They're already producing flowers, but they just started. Some kelp and a good dose of some PK should do the trick.
Peppers are indeterminate and grow while they fruit, so nutrient management isn't the same as a determinate variety, like cannabis. They have to get a dual purpose fertilizer. Something like 5-5-5 to start. Once they are larger and laden with blooms they'll need slightly higher PK over N. The purple streaks in the stem are common anongst pepper plants and usually signifies water stress or a need for extra P. And sure enough, they're blooms so I'd say it's a need for some P.View attachment 3531918View attachment 3531919 View attachment 3531920 View attachment 3531921
Have you seen some of my pepeprs? fucken overzealous amn horridly, You interested in hot's??? cause i got plenty or moruga's yellow and red, balut jolokia's, scorpions too1
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
that was my concern was the ozone. cause i was gonna get an ozone generator off amazon, and run it for 10 min with the exhaust fan off before lights out, and then have it shut off and resume the fan and stuff after, as i know ozone can burn or even kill plants.

I have some powder mildew infections on a couple of plants. on my 9lb hammer, i think i must have brought it in from my vegetable garden this year with a draft of air or on my clothes or something because the PM was HORRENDOUS outside this year.

But my friend received some plants that had PM (no signs showing at the time) and it ended up taking over his whole garden because he chose to not do anything about it. I got a couple cuts of his confidential cheese before the PM even showed face in his room, and I never saw the PM on that strain in my garden until right before i put it into flower; it reared its little conidiophores on just a couple leaves. he also had a tray of clones that were solid genetics: GG#4, querkle, and a really killer sour D that's been around for about 10-12 years. he was gonna toss them and I'm like no, i'll see what i can do and keep them under quarantine. the clones had a little PM showing, but nothing that couldn't be washed off and treated so i took them in. they are looking great!!!! but i know they still have the systemic fungi in there :(

So i've been very effectively keeping the mildew breakouts from happening. once i see a little area developing, even if just on one leaf, i will wipe it down with a damp paper towel so i dont spread spores everywhere and then pull the plants outta the room and spray them down. what has worked REALLY well for me is the neem oil/bicarbonate mixture. it stops a PM breakout dead in its tracks, well very small breakouts lol. it was lasting the better portion of a week until i sprayed an aloe foliar and had PM breakout within 36 hrs. i think the aloe foliar washed away the neem/bicarbonate that was working. haven't had to test on major breakouts cause i've been on top of it thankfully. if the leaves were too far infested i'd just remove them anyway but i don't like to do that because, obviously, that's how the plant feeds itself lol.

what are your experiences with battling PM in a greenhouse/indoor garden....?
I have been very fortunate and have never had PM indoors. But my outdoor is a whole different story. I had it bad this year and septoria leaf spot. I know that PM doesn't like alkaloyds. Neem also works but one has to stay very diligent with it and timed intervals are crucial. Every 7 days on the day. You can try a fungacide like dactonil, but it's more of a preventive than a cure or remedy. I would go for the high alkaline water with neem. pH must stay above 7.5 so target a pH of at least that but no higher than 8.2.

Your right about wiping or wetting the spores as to reduce transmissions. I'd wipe them off first, then spray tops and bottoms of all the leaves. This should keep it at bay till harvest.
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
Have you seen some of my pepeprs? fucken overzealous amn horridly, You interested in hot's??? cause i got plenty or moruga's yellow and red, balut jolokia's, scorpions too1
I love hots. I have some Carolina reapers I just ordered in the mail. I'd be happy to trade some seed with you. And your only a state away.

Your peppers do look good and not so good. In my experience most issues with peppers stem from the soil. They need very airy and fast drainage conditions in the soil. Your could benifit from a good kelp foliar. Spray them at night, right before lights out. The fans will dry them durring the dark phase and they'll be ready to use the foliar when the lights come on. Kelp is know to reduce stress and loaded with 80+ trace minerals. It's always my first go to when foliar spraying. Yours look slightly yellow, so I'd say feed them a good dose of a even NPK fertilizer after the foliar when the lights come on. Throw some carbohydrates in the mix too, this is their "energy food".
 

VTMi'kmaq

Well-Known Member
well yeah, im a poor sumbatch grandpa! i jut grabbed random soil from the community garden(because at the time i couldnt afford a bale of pro or sunshine) and it Tortured my babies. I intend to bring em back to fruition and thriving. I'd be happy to trade with ya sure thing. Going out for a GOOD n-p-k fert today. oh and more kelp.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
I have been very fortunate and have never had PM indoors. But my outdoor is a whole different story. I had it bad this year and septoria leaf spot. I know that PM doesn't like alkaloyds. Neem also works but one has to stay very diligent with it and timed intervals are crucial. Every 7 days on the day. You can try a fungacide like dactonil, but it's more of a preventive than a cure or remedy. I would go for the high alkaline water with neem. pH must stay above 7.5 so target a pH of at least that but no higher than 8.2.

Your right about wiping or wetting the spores as to reduce transmissions. I'd wipe them off first, then spray tops and bottoms of all the leaves. This should keep it at bay till harvest.
I was using the bicarbonate by itself @ 2tbsp per gal outside garden, and it did nothing for me. then i read that it is most effective when applied with a horticultural oil, so i chose the neem. it's been rocking so far. without the oil, pointless. wish i would have known that when my outdoor stuff was still alive!!!! lol. i'll know for next year though.

i agree, every 7 days seems to be the most beneficial. i just dont like spraying neem on flowers past week 3, so i need to figure out some sort of spray shield so i don't get neem all over my smokeables, but can still apply to leaves if i see a breakout.

ive read PM doesn't like wet conditions, so i'll just foliar with fuckin city water or something if i have to past week 3... it's about 7.4-8 ph from the tap generally, and had chlorines/chloramines so i figure it's gonna be decent as fucking up fungi lol. i'm gonna put a drip shield over my soil so i don't water the spores into the dirt that way. but i think the neem/bicarbonate is gonna do the trick for me for now.

the problem is you need a systemic cure for the PM, and usually that means nasty stuff that i would never use on an organic garden when it comes down to it. I'm kinda hoping that if i prevent breakouts and spores from infecting other parts of the plant or other plants, eventually the plant will get rid of it.

oh i also read about Chitosan activating the defense system in the plant that can provoke it to produce chitinase. i dont know if PM hypha inside the plant contain any chitin, but if it does... maybe the chitinase will fuck it all up. so i topdressed 2tbsp of crab shell into all of my plants in larger containers (unamended soil mixes i'm using vegamatrix on right now), and 1tbsp on the smaller containers. I'm gonna mulch them and hopefully in a few weeks i'll have those shells starting break down producing the chitosan, which will maybe trigger the plant to produce some chitinase! we shall see.....

thanks again man.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
well yeah, im a poor sumbatch grandpa! i jut grabbed random soil from the community garden(because at the time i couldnt afford a bale of pro or sunshine) and it Tortured my babies. I intend to bring em back to fruition and thriving. I'd be happy to trade with ya sure thing. Going out for a GOOD n-p-k fert today. oh and more kelp.
you could also top the pepper plants. i did this in my garden this year. the plants were small and trying to put energy into flowers and fruit production while young, and had pretty much stopped vegetative growth. so i did an experiment and topped off all the flowers and they started bushing out like crazy. after a couple weeks they were looking great, and had started to produce flowers again, but in much greater numbers.

kinda like not letting your strawberries make fruit the first year... and the next year the shit is on! :)
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
I was using the bicarbonate by itself @ 2tbsp per gal outside garden, and it did nothing for me. then i read that it is most effective when applied with a horticultural oil, so i chose the neem. it's been rocking so far. without the oil, pointless. wish i would have known that when my outdoor stuff was still alive!!!! lol. i'll know for next year though.

i agree, every 7 days seems to be the most beneficial. i just dont like spraying neem on flowers past week 3, so i need to figure out some sort of spray shield so i don't get neem all over my smokeables, but can still apply to leaves if i see a breakout.

ive read PM doesn't like wet conditions, so i'll just foliar with fuckin city water or something if i have to past week 3... it's about 7.4-8 ph from the tap generally, and had chlorines/chloramines so i figure it's gonna be decent as fucking up fungi lol. i'm gonna put a drip shield over my soil so i don't water the spores into the dirt that way. but i think the neem/bicarbonate is gonna do the trick for me for now.

the problem is you need a systemic cure for the PM, and usually that means nasty stuff that i would never use on an organic garden when it comes down to it. I'm kinda hoping that if i prevent breakouts and spores from infecting other parts of the plant or other plants, eventually the plant will get rid of it.

oh i also read about Chitosan activating the defense system in the plant that can provoke it to produce chitinase. i dont know if PM hypha inside the plant contain any chitin, but if it does... maybe the chitinase will fuck it all up. so i topdressed 2tbsp of crab shell into all of my plants in larger containers (unamended soil mixes i'm using vegamatrix on right now), and 1tbsp on the smaller containers. I'm gonna mulch them and hopefully in a few weeks i'll have those shells starting break down producing the chitosan, which will maybe trigger the plant to produce some chitinase! we shall see.....

thanks again man.
It sounds like you have things covered pretty well brother, next time get some neem cake/meal and throw that in the soil. It will be your savior when foliars aren't applicable in flower. And your spot on with the tricoderma! Better late than not at all. The tap h20 should be fine for the alkalinity, and yes your right about an oil sticker, water will just bead up and run off without a sticker.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
It sounds like you have things covered pretty well brother, next time get some neem cake/meal and throw that in the soil. It will be your savior when foliars aren't applicable in flower. And your spot on with the tricoderma! Better late than not at all. The tap h20 should be fine for the alkalinity, and yes your right about an oil sticker, water will just bead up and run off without a sticker.
i have the neem meal already. i was thinking about doing a tea drench of it... i believe i read neem can be systemic? i just didn't want to topdress it because i've heard a few people say they got some burn from the topdress... though i wouldn't do more than 2tbsp per cuft. container of soil for the topdress...

sucks about your bulb, but honestly, cost is negligible in my eyes anymore unless it's like a $400+ investment for something... and even still sometimes that is negligible.
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
Spend $101.
Grabbed a bulb and some General Organics "Bio Marine", which is cold processed squid. I love the GO line and have great harvests using it. It's a great liquid fertilizer that's 100% no bullshit Organic. The squid is my favorite out of the line because it is cold processed and enzymatically digested. This shit is gold, and I have seen huge improvement from using it in my AACT's.
I also grabbed 2 bare root 1446225060646.jpg 1446225118750.jpg basil clones that were freebies on the counter.
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
Adding 2tsp (10ml) to the tea I have brewing right now. This should perk up the microbes and give more diversity to their diet. Plus more enzymes!!!!
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
Since there is a post here about PM, AND MITES, I feel it's appropriate to show some concern for any foreign plant one brings into their garden. I visually inspected the basil clones and DID see some tiny white specks and they were amongst webs. There was a clear power residue on the surface of the leaves but nothing on bottom. The residue wasn't consuming the leafs surface, but more like "here and there spots".
Take no chances here folks-
I ran the sink and with plain tap water, I rinsed off the tops and bottoms of the leaves, stems and the roots. Filled the cups with tap water to help reduce any possible nasty that may be present. (Not really necessary, but it's a preventive measure)
Next, I'm going to spray them with full strength dose of neem oil. Then plant.
They're going jn with the rest of the plants but I will isolate these two to a corner away from others, down wind.
The roots seem very healthy and with lots of "fish bones", so these clones were healthy, and aeroponically produced. Being an aeroponically rooted clone, they will be successful in taking to a soil enviroment.
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
haha thanks man going hard on that hemp mulch i see :blsmoke: i just grind everything up and put it with my compost pile, your method looks really good too.
It's not my first choice in recycling, but I am not will to bring my compost barrel inside. It will have to do even if it's not fully composted. But by the time I get to transplanting it should be a good deal underway. Fingers crossed. Lol
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
Since there is a post here about PM, AND MITES, I feel it's appropriate to show some concern for any foreign plant one brings into their garden. I visually inspected the basil clones and DID see some tiny white specks and they were amongst webs. There was a clear power residue on the surface of the leaves but nothing on bottom. The residue wasn't consuming the leafs surface, but more like "here and there spots".
Take no chances here folks-
I ran the sink and with plain tap water, I rinsed off the tops and bottoms of the leaves, stems and the roots. Filled the cups with tap water to help reduce any possible nasty that may be present. (Not really necessary, but it's a preventive measure)
Next, I'm going to spray them with full strength dose of neem oil. Then plant.
They're going jn with the rest of the plants but I will isolate these two to a corner away from others, down wind.
The roots seem very healthy and with lots of "fish bones", so these clones were healthy, and aeroponically produced. Being an aeroponically rooted clone, they will be successful in taking to a soil enviroment.
as always... excellent advice. i always treat them as if they are exposed... but i rarely take plants from people anyways lol. my favorite method to take care of possible bug infestation is a plant dunk. i just take the clones, flip them upside down, and dunk them in a mix of captain jacks dead bug. then i stick them in the aero cloner! the dunk covers every surface of plant tissue while possibly washing off the fuckers right into the captain jacks. i got rid of mites this way. had to rid the veg room of the infected plants, but the clones came out clean! PS, don't leave your basement window open with a vented tunnel right to your veg room lol. that's a mite highway to heaven in the fall when it gets cold out!
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
as always... excellent advice. i always treat them as if they are exposed... but i rarely take plants from people anyways lol. my favorite method to take care of possible bug infestation is a plant dunk. i just take the clones, flip them upside down, and dunk them in a mix of captain jacks dead bug. then i stick them in the aero cloner! the dunk covers every surface of plant tissue while possibly washing off the fuckers right into the captain jacks. i got rid of mites this way. had to rid the veg room of the infected plants, but the clones came out clean! PS, don't leave your basement window open with a vented tunnel right to your veg room lol. that's a mite highway to heaven in the fall when it gets cold out!
Dude I would have taken those cuts too!
A sour D that's 10yrs. Oh hell yes! "Fucking where do I sign up!" Lol
The captain Jacks is good stuff!

Yup, for sure mites will tunnel in through ducting. I get alot of calls for boxelder bugs and Japanese beatles in the spring. The love to overwinter inside the foundations and in spring they resurface on the south/west walls outside as to warm up and take flight. The will always return because they leave pharamones. Mites are in the arachnid genus and don't rely on pharamones but, all bugs overwinter somewhere, wherever they can.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
Dude I would have taken those cuts too!
A sour D that's 10yrs. Oh hell yes! "Fucking where do I sign up!" Lol
yeah i didn't want him to toss them, but just sucks 'cause PM is systemic... and as of now i don't know how to cure, only prevent.... but the sour D is a killer one. i don't come across too many that are like this one.
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
yeah i didn't want him to toss them, but just sucks 'cause PM is systemic... and as of now i don't know how to cure, only prevent.... but the sour D is a killer one. i don't come across too many that are like this one.
The only cures in seed form I believe. I could be wrong tho, but I don't think the seeds embryonic cells can support the spores of any fungal pathogen. I'll look into it for you.
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
The only cures in seed form I believe. I could be wrong tho, but I don't think the seeds embryonic cells can support the spores of any fungal pathogen. I'll look into it for you.
I just called up my buddy, and he said he has been incorporating a combination of methods.
He advise to use a 10%milk solution. He tried whole milk, 2% and skim, and he said he found the best results with skim. He also said that he rotates his method from week to week. Meaning, week 1 is neem oil, and week 2 is milk solution, and he alternates weekly.

Still working on the seed question tho, even he's not sure. Some virals can be transmitted into seed but he's unclear about spores, which is what PM and it's similar rely on for transmission. You may have Downey mildew and not Powdery mildew, which can function in arid condition.
 
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