Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

DANKSWAG

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
ROLS ?

Can I eat the tops of my plants when I pinch them off to top?
After watching this BIM video http://vimeo.com/m/16647170, realizing I need to source my veggies better for the produce in our markets suck as far as mineral content goes. So I am trying to get a little bit more high mineral content in the greens in my diet. I just don't want to violate some ROL code I am unaware of that may put more importance feeding my soil then feeding my body...



LMFAO:bigjoint:
Couldn't help myself
DankSwag
 
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KLITE

KLITE

Well-Known Member
Hey guys

Rye didnt sprout, ended up with a sour smelling mess. Soaked some of my chickens wheat last night, rinsed etc this morning and put it bubbling in a bucket. By evening time all seeds are starting to show the white tip. Should be good for pureeing in a day or too. Quite happy hehe
Can i freeze the excess sprout puree in portions? If so, does it lose some properties? If so, can it be accurately(kind of) quantified?
Thanks for guidance!

Keep it livin' you guys!
 
st0wandgrow

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
Others that do SST's freeze the remains in an ice cube tray. Just measure how much you have which makes x amount of cubes and plunk the appropriate amount of cubes in to your bucket of warmish water when you want to use it again.
 
KLITE

KLITE

Well-Known Member
Others that do SST's freeze the remains in an ice cube tray. Just measure how much you have which makes x amount of cubes and plunk the appropriate amount of cubes in to your bucket of warmish water when you want to use it again.
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Thans stow

Can you comment on property loss with freezing? Im trying to look online at what temperatures enzymes and hormones stay active but its proving difficult.
 
st0wandgrow

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
KLITE said:
Thans stow

Can you comment on property loss with freezing? Im trying to look online at what temperatures enzymes and hormones stay active but its proving difficult.
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From what I have gathered you will be fine. Enzymes are not living organisms and are effective in a broad range of temperatures, so I'm sure that adding the frozen cubes to warm water will do the trick.
 
KLITE

KLITE

Well-Known Member
Thanks again

Im also curious when do you guys stop molasseing the water in flower? Ive always stopped 2 weeks before harvest though i dont think thered be any harm in giving it right til the end and perhaps give the flowers an extra push weightwise?
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
KLITE said:
Thanks again

Im also curious when do you guys stop molasseing the water in flower? Ive always stopped 2 weeks before harvest though i dont think thered be any harm in giving it right til the end and perhaps give the flowers an extra push weightwise?
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i use molasses water around day 25, day 40 and the last few waterings..
 
KLITE

KLITE

Well-Known Member
Thanks Hyroot, i start molasseing around the same time as you every seond watering. I was thinking of trying until the very last watering.

On another note, my country doesnt sell alfalfa meal anywhere, In the past ive ordered it from abroad howver i have seen huge bails of the stuff for sale at a ridiculous price like 5 euro for a 30 kg bail. Though its not ground to a meal. Would you attempt to mealify it? or the hassle would be too big and outcome not fine enough?
 
st0wandgrow

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
KLITE said:
Thanks again

Im also curious when do you guys stop molasseing the water in flower? Ive always stopped 2 weeks before harvest though i dont think thered be any harm in giving it right til the end and perhaps give the flowers an extra push weightwise?
Click to expand...

IMO you can use whatever you wish right up until you chop. Particularly if you're recycling the soil. Whatever you're using (nutrient teas, fish hydrolysate, etc) will be tied up in your soil and available to the next plant you plunk in there. I don't really buy the theory that its beneficial to stop feeding (flushing) the plant weeks before harvest.
 
st0wandgrow

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
KLITE said:
Thanks Hyroot, i start molasseing around the same time as you every seond watering. I was thinking of trying until the very last watering.

On another note, my country doesnt sell alfalfa meal anywhere, In the past ive ordered it from abroad howver i have seen huge bails of the stuff for sale at a ridiculous price like 5 euro for a 30 kg bail. Though its not ground to a meal. Would you attempt to mealify it? or the hassle would be too big and outcome not fine enough?
Click to expand...

What about using it as a mulch? I've seen others do it. Not sure how much of it, or how quickly it would become bio available though??
 
KLITE

KLITE

Well-Known Member
IMO you can use whatever you wish right up until you chop. Particularly if you're recycling the soil. Whatever you're using (nutrient teas, fish hydrolysate, etc) will be tied up in your soil and available to the next plant you plunk in there. I don't really buy the theory that its beneficial to stop feeding (flushing) the plant weeks before harvest.
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To be honest since switching to organics i started doing only 1 week plain water at the end instead of 2 or 3. I get where you are coming from and it makes sense, since in this type of system plants fetches what it needs as it needs it and no salts nor chemicals are present in the medium hence there is nothing harmful the plant could retain in its plant material. Suppose near the end of its life plant stops 'feeding' on its own the last days? I remember headtreep mentioning senescence, the study of discoluring near end of life, i need to look more into that. Kinda trippy.

What about using it as a mulch? I've seen others do it. Not sure how much of it, or how quickly it would become bio available though??
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I really like adding alfalfa to the soil. feel it gives a lasting nitrogen source and i like the consistency it gives to the soil too. Im one of those guys who youd have to threaten to death top change my mulch, i just love old weed leaves for mulch, plus i think a plants own leafy material would be 'pre tought' (by the creator or whomever) to be the best mulch, im really high though an i like how it looks with the old leaves.
Im really thinking that without some kind of equipment it be either impossible ir incredibly time consuming to mealify the bulk bail alfalfa...
 
DANKSWAG

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
st0wandgrow said:
What about using it as a mulch? I've seen others do it. Not sure how much of it, or how quickly it would become bio available though??
Click to expand...
I believe if you got a bail of alfalfa you would want to break some off the bail, keep the bail covered and dry. Take the section you broke of wet it good on top of some soil and expose it to air and warm keep covered lightly to increase heat (decomposition) once quickly composted this way you can use that material to top dress and water with.

At least you will get diverse beneficial microbes in the alfalfa compost so you will get the goodness of the plant in a ready state as compost that is loaded with microbes that should be a great benefit as a top dress.

Anyone else got some ideas on processing raw alfalfa to use for tea or soil amendments?

DankSwag
 
L

legaleyes13

Well-Known Member
How big of a worm bin would I need to supply enough castings for a 4x4 bed?

And how often does one harvest castings?

Thanks in advance
 
st0wandgrow

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
legaleyes13 said:
How big of a worm bin would I need to supply enough castings for a 4x4 bed?

And how often does one harvest castings?

Thanks in advance
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How many cubic feet of soil are you working with? Compost/vermicpmpost should account for apx 1/4 to 1/3 of your mix. It will take a good 3 months or so for the worms to produce a size able amount if castings
 
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