Root Question

infdjedi

Well-Known Member
Sup guys... a quick update here. Phone camera still doesnt work but am getting one soon once I save up a bit.

Still struggling with root rot. Plants doing OK as I am on top of it but it's a plague none the less. I have learned a few things I want to share.

1. GH Flora Nova according to their webpage has 3-5% organics in it. So even though they claim it is good for hydro it does have organics in it which can contribute/contain root rot bacterias. I have spent a ton of money on it so I dont really want to change at this point but I might. It also stains the roots brown which can make identifying root rot a lot harder.

2. I have a humidifier in my room and fill it from my 55gl drum water storage tank. I have a re-circulation pump on it, and I add hydroguard to it twice a week. I keep it about half full in case I need to add water or do any kind of emergency res change. The other day I noticed a brown clump inside my humidifier that was spreading outwards.. then I looked closer in my water storage tank and there was a film over the top of it. Basically I think I got bacteria in here and it has been recontaminating my entire grow. It probably doesnt help that my humidifer was blowing this bacteria all over the room!!

3. I did a whole H202 treatment last week. Soaked plants in a high solution (did tons of research to pick right PPM).. while I cleaned and flushed entire system with high % H202. Flushed, added water back in and redid nutrients. Added plants back in and within a day they were droopy and roots were browner than normal. Added my hydroguard and great white and within a day they perked up and new white root growth coming out. So either I overdid it with h202 OR my water was the culprit and I reinfected the entire thing.

4. I cleaned and dried my water storage tank with bleach and am refilling it as we speak. I am going to empty it every time I do a changeout from now on so it doesnt become a breeding ground.

5. After TONS of research I settled upon buying a bottle of UC roots. Tonight I am going to add about 3 mL / GL and let it work for 24 hours and then do a complete res change with fresher water, while at the same time have a benny tea ready to restart. I am going to try this method, basically sterilize the system towards the end of a res change and when I do the change, flush everything out and reinocculate. IF that doesnt work I am going to succumb to the weekly usage of UC roots.

I will keep you guys posted on how this goes. Appreciate the help.
 

infdjedi

Well-Known Member
I've thought about it.. curious your reasoning? Just simplier? If i go that route should I start at like half max and work up towards it or will they be ok?
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
you are basically going between sterile and a live res with what you are doing now. you'll have no idea how long the uc roots or the peroxide is still active and could kill the bacteria that way.

uc roots is just chlorine. if it's good enough for municipal water suppliers to use to keep crap out of the lines, that means it works. and at levels less than 5 ppm it won't kill humans or plants. so i'm sure UC roots has tested their max dose and it must be a safe level.
 

infdjedi

Well-Known Member
So one of the things I learned a lot about is UC roots vs bleach/etc. From what I read.. UC roots is a stabilized/inhibited hypochlorous acid vs bleach being the highly unstable sodium hypochlorite. While the "kill" agent in both is the same (chlorine).. the inhibited acid *could* be easier on the roots and equipment compared to sodium or calcium hypochlorite. I know that in the construction industry they use stabilized acids to clean calcium deposits while not harming the metal the deposits are on. I am no expert but that seemed to be the consensus of what I read..
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
So one of the things I learned a lot about is UC roots vs bleach/etc. From what I read.. UC roots is a stabilized/inhibited hypochlorous acid vs bleach being the highly unstable sodium hypochlorite. While the "kill" agent in both is the same (chlorine).. the inhibited acid *could* be easier on the roots and equipment compared to sodium or calcium hypochlorite. I know that in the construction industry they use stabilized acids to clean calcium deposits while not harming the metal the deposits are on. I am no expert but that seemed to be the consensus of what I read..
yeah, i wouldn't use liquid laundry bleach unless it was the only thing i could find.

check out pool shock. 62% calcium hypochlorite. a 1LB bag would last you literally a decade. UC roots probably just adds some type of stablizer so it doesnt break down so fast every time you open the bottle.
 

infdjedi

Well-Known Member
Yea, that is certainly a lot less expensive. I will let you know how I make out. Going to take some before and after pictures. (got camera again)
 

infdjedi

Well-Known Member
Finally got the camera.. see below. This is essentially what I've been dealing with for a couple weeks. I've gotten almost there with tons of bennies but it still exists. I have a small system with really good chiller.. should I also try dropping temp down from 65-67? Just added some UC roots at 5 mL / GL on todays res change. It seems like the slime is worse in the area above the water.. whereas the stuff under the water is more white, though it just could be newer growth. Will update you as I go here. Any thoughts appreciated.
 

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rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
I would mix up about 3 gals of water and UC roots in a 5 gal bucket and dunk each netpot into that about 5 times. get that UC roots into every nook and cranny.
 

infdjedi

Well-Known Member
I can't take my net pot out of my bucket without the lid.. lid wont fit in any other buckets. Would top feeding with the UC roots water be good enough? Also wont your hydroton clay balls go everyone as well?
 

5BY5LEC

Well-Known Member
As soon as the Hypochlorus hits the organic stuff in your nova, its gonna get all bound up and you will have no free chlorine for disinfecting.
Good shit as long as you use it with mineral nutes and RO.
If your running anything organic heisens tea is the way to go. That shit has done me right.
By the way, I think the shit on your roots is from the nova. Your individual root strands are still visible, they are not clumping and your roots still look like they have "body" to them. What do they smell like? Fresh cut taters?
 

infdjedi

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Update.. the UC Roots helped significantly. I still have some darkness near the core of the rootball but its much less; and the outside roots are super white and continuing to grow nicely.

Something else has come up looking to get a few opinions on...

I have had some deficiency the entire grow.. upward clawing leaves no matter temp or light direction.. but not everywhere. I've got some slight black spotting starting; but overall they look healthy and happy. Hoping to try and figure out what the issue is though.

I have been keeping track of PPMS and every time I feed (every 7 days) I use 5 mL/GL Flora Nova Bloom, 2 mL/GL Cal Mag, 2 mL/GL Silica. I get a mid 900's PPM after res change and they are using around 1 GL of H20 per day but in the last 2 days it has jumped up to 1.5/1.8GPD. I am in week 2 FLower, starting week 3. pH drops during the light cycle to 5.6ish and rises during night cycle to 5.95. Leading up to last res change I had to add quite a bit of pH up to keep it in the 5.6's, but that was only the last day before res change. Overall my PPMs are dropping but its a little tough to tell since I am adding so much water every day. I am trying to do the high initial PPM and top off with water. I have yet to build a top off reservoir.. initial RDWC build was enough work though it is in the plans for next run.

Any help appreciated. Thanks Gents

EDIT: I noticed at the last res change when I added in the Flora Nova Bloom some type of precipitate formed.. but after about 30 minutes of recirculating it went away and everything looked normal. I did not get this when I used the Flora Nova Grow product. I add the nutes one at a time, starting with silica and let each one mix for about 30 minutes (350 GPH pump, 16 GL RES). After nutes mix pH levels out at 5.85 without any adjustments..
 
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