Roots Organics Soil and nutrient lockout

<Grasshopper>

Active Member
I would add dolomite or garden lime (not hydrated), to ANY peat based mix.

That means just about all of them AFAIK.

Wet
I agree totally. I used equel parts roots...foxfarms OF...and sunshine mix #4 and added dolomite and by the end of my flowering the runnoff was 6.1 which is perfect. Next run I forgot the dolomite and had nitrogen lockout from a soil ph that was 5.4. I watered in some hydrated lime and that fixed it but still lost over 1.5 weeks right at week 2 of flowering when there was hardly any growth. This grow I am useing subcools supersoil along with roots soil without the sunshine peat mix #4. and am useing some bloom teas that I have made with budswell, High P bat guano, Kelp meal and mollases. This cycle I also have bigger pots and longer veg. My plants are just beasts this grow....really Big Big improvement. AND!!!!! I remembered the dolomite pellets this time. runnoff is a happy 6.3.

1 tablespoons dolomite pellets per 5 gallon pot of soil. I use the epsoma and another brand which I dont remember.

Grasshopper
 

<Grasshopper>

Active Member
If those of you who are having problems with the Roots soil or any soil mix AND feeding ORGANIC NUTRIENTS you may want to see if your water contains chloramine. Because if it does you WILL continue to have prob's. If your water does contain chloramine the only way to get rid of it is with a carbon filter.
And if your reverse osmosis filter is any good it will have a carbon filter along with 2 sediment filters before the membrane.

GH
 
thx for all the replies. I do lower my ph with a single drop of ph down GH, so I do wonder if I'm dropping it too low. I've upped the nutrient intake and it seems to be alright, just a little bit of yellowing here and there. Still guessin my ph is a little out of whack, but you now have me thinking about the chloramine.... have never tested the water for anything other than ph
 

robb1

Active Member
I actually think your wrong. Chloramine is Chlorine with ammonia attached to it. It can not be filtered with a carbon filter (R.O. water), distilled, evaporated out, or boiled. The only way to get rid of it is to un-attach the ammonia from the chlorine...with vitamin C. They make vitamin C filters, which are specifically made for Chloramine. I was at my local fish store, and was asking the owner what he uses to rid chlorine, and he told me "Its not the Chlorine, its the Chloramine". He then explained this all to me. Plus I think Ed Rosenthal goes into some details about this in his Medical Marijuana Textbook (not the actual name, but its the one they use at weed schools and such)

If those of you who are having problems with the Roots soil or any soil mix AND feeding ORGANIC NUTRIENTS you may want to see if your water contains chloramine. Because if it does you WILL continue to have prob's. If your water does contain chloramine the only way to get rid of it is with a carbon filter.
 

bushybush

New Member
Roots OrGNATics

Gnats.... gnats in the soil.
While I stick by my love of roots organics soil......Unfortunately, you are CORRECT sir. Very Gnatty indeed. sand, diotomecous? earth, neem oil, gnat sticks. (IF it becomes a problem.) and it usually doesn't. But yeah....I wonder why that is?
 

Crash666

Well-Known Member
I recently read something Subcool posted about Aurora Innovations (roots organics) using an outside company to distribute their soil. Supposedly the distribution company stored the soil next to a garbage dump and since then people have been having fungus gnat issues. I know i've used Roots soil for over a year and just got the first bag with gnats in December. GoGnats seems to work good for my problem. I've read that predatory nematodes are also a good natural solution, but I've never tried them. As for the PH, I usually adjust my RO water up to around 8 to get runoff in the low 6 range.
 

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
High in Breck,

We, too use RO soil, but NOT their nutes. The soil comes with too much of a charge IMO. To get around this, we "dilute" the soil with 30% coco and 30% #4 perlite. This gives us some options as far as feeding, without being too concerned with overfeeding and a potential lockout. The added perlite prevents any over watering problems. I still think it's the best organic soil right out of the bag.

I don't like the secondary and micro nutrient package in the RO nutes. One is a good organic P an K (I forget which one...NPK of 0-5-4), but that's about it. For what it's worth, I use Earthjuice Microblast for the micros, Botanicare Ca for calcium, and Botanicare Sweet Raw for magnesium and sulfur. After that, you can do whatever you do for your N-P-K. I've found with pure live soil organics the N-P-K is easy...it's the others that can be overlooked and cause problems.

As far as your leaf yellowing problem at hand, might be time for the old standby nutrient problem fix: HEAVY flushing, followed by a complete nutrient solution feeding, and maybe some light foilar feeding. May want to check the PPM and PH of your flushing water that comes out of the pots to give you an idea of what is going on in the root zone. I would think that if you have excess yellowing of ALL your strains, it's a nutrient problem that can be fixed. The only yellowing I ever experience is late in my pre harvest flush.

Good luck and let me know if you need some help. Somewhere around here I have a great formula for an all purpose totally organic "first aid" nutrient solution mix that may help you.
Good post. I'm using RO soil and love the stuff. I amend it with perlite, humus, casings, guano, perlite, azomite, mykos, trich's, dolomite, and a few other goodies. I have excellent results with it, better than I ever got using Fox Farm soils. I think the OP is underfeeding from the sounds of it.
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
Good post. I'm using RO soil and love the stuff. I amend it with perlite, humus, casings, guano, perlite, azomite, mykos, trich's, dolomite, and a few other goodies. I have excellent results with it, better than I ever got using Fox Farm soils. I think the OP is underfeeding from the sounds of it.
Wolverine

With all those amendments, why are you even buying bagged soil? Get the 3.8CuFt bale of peat moss and mix yer own. ProMix is just peat moss, perlite and just SOME of the goodies you already have. All you need is a wheelbarrow or mixing tub. The peat moss is ~$12 for the 3.8CuFt bale.

Wet
 

NightbirdX

Well-Known Member
How much Dolomite Lime would you guys recommend using per 5 gallon container? I'm using Pro-Mix soil right now, and have been adding in GO CaMg+. Since I have been seeing a pretty uniform CaMg deficiency in everything I've been growing organically, I just wanna add the lime in the soil so I don't have to dink with my PPM adding the CaMg+.
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
"I" add 2tbl/gallon of mix, or 1 cup/CuFt of mix.

Best if you add to the mix before use, but you can also top dress with it. Sprinkle it on and water it in. 10tbl for a 5gal container.

Wet
 

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
Wolverine

With all those amendments, why are you even buying bagged soil? Get the 3.8CuFt bale of peat moss and mix yer own. ProMix is just peat moss, perlite and just SOME of the goodies you already have. All you need is a wheelbarrow or mixing tub. The peat moss is ~$12 for the 3.8CuFt bale.

Wet
I know, I know. I've done it before, but it's a lot more work breaking up the bales, soaking and breaking up the coco, and then there's yet more amendments I'd have to buy. I started only adding a few extra's, and have slowly added more, and more... You see where I'm going with this, though I will probably eventually start mixing from scratch again. I get fairly good prices on roots soil from my hydro guy, but I buy 12 bags at a time. Also, there's a local place that sells Ocean Forest for $12/bag but I'm getting away from that product.
 

NightbirdX

Well-Known Member
"I" add 2tbl/gallon of mix, or 1 cup/CuFt of mix.

Best if you add to the mix before use, but you can also top dress with it. Sprinkle it on and water it in. 10tbl for a 5gal container.

Wet
Thanks for the tip. I was going to buy some the today, but wasn't sure how much to be using.
 

NightbirdX

Well-Known Member
So I added the Dolemite Lime in the amount suggested to my BioCanna run. I'll be adding it to my Canna run also. I transplanted my Sour OG into 7 Gallon pots of Pro-Mix and 14 Tablespoons of Lime and thoroughly mixed it in. The plants love it. They hadn't been growing much in the last week. Now they are stretching and spreading out and the purpling in the stems is going away. They are taking off and look like they are liking the add very much. Thank you again. Now if all my fixes were this easy. :P

I swear I am sticking to 1 or 2 strains only lol. With 10 different strains going and using 3 different nutrient lines, I've had to be on point in making adjustments. One plant needs heavier nutes, another plant needs more Cal/Mag, One plant needs less nutes, the other Nute locked from pH (at least I think that's what it is.) I've been spraying, flushing, tweaking all weekend, lol. I need a vacation.
 

bomb hills

Well-Known Member
Damn... I have been having the exact same problems using Root Organics soil and nute line. No Gnats thought. Every time about 3 weeks into flower my larger fan leaves start to yellow, brown spots, burned tips and progresses to the rest of the plant. By week 5 most the big leaves are toasted. I have experimented with no nutrients, normal nutrients, light mix of nutrients, it don't matter, happens all the same. I check my PH and its always 6.5-7. During Vegetative the plants are super healthy in 3 gal, then I switch to 5 gal for flowering give them a few weeks and then start into 12/12. Then 2 or 3 weeks into flower things go south.

This time around I am hoping for better results. Going with adding in Epsom salts with every water and using Earth Juice Micro Blast and some RO Grow and Bloom every other. Next time I may try and cut down the soil and add in some Dolomite. Thanks for all the good advice here, I will post back hopefully with good news.
 

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
Damn... I have been having the exact same problems using Root Organics soil and nute line. No Gnats thought. Every time about 3 weeks into flower my larger fan leaves start to yellow, brown spots, burned tips and progresses to the rest of the plant. By week 5 most the big leaves are toasted. I have experimented with no nutrients, normal nutrients, light mix of nutrients, it don't matter, happens all the same. I check my PH and its always 6.5-7. During Vegetative the plants are super healthy in 3 gal, then I switch to 5 gal for flowering give them a few weeks and then start into 12/12. Then 2 or 3 weeks into flower things go south.

This time around I am hoping for better results. Going with adding in Epsom salts with every water and using Earth Juice Micro Blast and some RO Grow and Bloom every other. Next time I may try and cut down the soil and add in some Dolomite. Thanks for all the good advice here, I will post back hopefully with good news.
They're not burning, they're starving. Roots nutrient line is notoriously weak, though their soil is great. Feed them girls, mang.
 
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