RQS Gorilla glue + Danes Bubblecake 640w led bars

IceBrr said:

i use PLA witch is bioplast should be pretty safe changed hotend to a hardned one aswell

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PLA does release microparticles and it is not foodsafe(unless especially processed to be foodsafe). I mean its not the worst, but i dont think its good. Especially if there is some light from your growlights hitting the pots, they will degrade even more.

Ideal material would be PVDF, but its expensive as hell and not all consumer(or even pro) desktop printers can print it. PP would also be pretty much as safe as can be and its not very expensive. PET/PETG is kinda on the fence, it should be safe enough if no bright lights shine on it, because the plastic itself is food safe, but strong lights do degrade PET and cause it to release microparticles.

But the thing is that im not sure about how much actually gets absorbed in the plant, you might be inhaling more microparticles directly from printing. But the thing is that some plastics turn way way more carcinogenic and might even release other more poisonous gasses when heated up over a certain point(higher than printing temps). For example if you heat up PVDF too much, it starts to release some fluoride gasses that can cause sudden death(but PVDF is completely inert and would not leak from the pots to plant at all even if you used them for 100 years straight). But thats quite an extreme example. But the thing is that we dont know everything about these microparticles or what poisons the plastics might release if heated and what levels are we even talking here.

So it might be ok, but it might not be so ok. It wasnt too long ago when people thought that PLA microparticles from printing are completely fine, but now that safety is being questioned. So even tho many say that its completely fine to print where ever and not care about fumes from printing PLA, it might not be safe afterall and i recommend keeping the printing area well aerated as a caution, because we are dealing with a lot of unknown things here. There simply has not been enough research on these things to be sure if its safe or not, but even common sense says that inhaling plastic microparticles doesent sound like a good idea.

PLA being sourced from plants does not really make it much safer for this, in fact, because of it, it is also biodegradable and would compost if you would give it enough time and suitable conditions. Strong light and water are THE conditions to make it degrade as fast as possible. Its the non bioplastics that are the safest, but they must the the kind of type that does not release any microparticles or degrade. Its like PLA releases more microparticles in those conditions compared to for example PET, but they are not as bad.


What printer do you have by the way? Advising people on printing materials is part of my job and i have had some advanced material trainings from one of the biggest material manufacturers etc. So feel free to ask if you have some questions about printing Im not too familiar with cheaper printers, but materials are the same.

I designed a mini bubbler hydro that fits in 20x20x20 printing area few years back when i was in school, but never printed it. Maybe i should see if i can find the files and print it one day. Would be nice for cuttings.

CannaOnerStar said:

PLA does release microparticles and it is not foodsafe(unless especially processed to be foodsafe). I mean its not the worst, but i dont think its good. Especially if there is some light from your growlights hitting the pots, they will degrade even more.

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i had no clue about that, i will consider changing material even tho i only use pots for one grow.. i actually got both PETG and ABS laying arround do you know anything about ABS it can take higher tempratures and should be more tough, then the rest of the materials afaik? (other then flex i think havent tried it yet !)

right now im running the artillery sidewinder x1 v4 it got a giant bed and was recommended by alot of people so i had to test it out.. i still need to calibrate it after the last upgrades so the prints arent as tight as the have been but they will become better

IceBrr said:

i had no clue about that, i will consider changing material even tho i only use pots for one grow.. i actually got both PETG and ABS laying arround do you know anything about ABS it can take higher tempratures and should be more tough, then the rest of the materials afaik? (other then flex i think havent tried it yet !)

right now im running the artillery sidewinder x1 v4 it got a giant bed and was recommended by alot of people so i had to test it out.. i still need to calibrate it after the last upgrades so the prints arent as tight as the have been but they will become better

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ABS is bad for this. ABS can be used safely for example in sex toys(but it needs to be completely smooth with no layer lines, you can smoothen ABS with acetone), but it is not food safe as is and its more poisonous than PLA.

PETG should be fine, especially if you keep strong lights away from it and dont use them for many runs, it could be fine for multiple runs, but i would rather be careful and more it degrades, faster it degrades and more it leaks crap. Keep in mind that all sorts of bacteria grow between layer lines.

If you take a normal plastic soda bottle that is made out of PET, fill it with fresh water, close the bottle and put it in sunlight for a while, the water will have this plastic taste. Thats is because of all the microparticle crap it starts to leak when it degrades due to light. However PET is fine for sodas and water etc if you keep it out of direct sunlight. But if you got LEDs with no or much at all UV, then it wont degrade it as fast.


That printer has a nice print area It really makes a difference to what you can print! However large prints in an open printer can be hard to manage due to warping. Especially with ABS. Do you have some box or something to combat this? Its also good to have even when printing smaller stuff from ABS unless you got good venting from right next to the printer. ABS fumes are pretty nasty.

ABS is not a very good material pick often imo, there are so many new materials that can do most of what ABS can do. It does still have its uses tho, like i mentioned that ABS can be polished with acetone and has good mechanical properties. But its tricky to print due to warping issues and now you have other materials like modified PLA that might have equal mechanical properties to ABS, but as easy to print as normal PLA. Also some modified PLA that can be used in higher temps than regular PLA or be harder than polycarbonate. Also tons of different nylons exist nowadays, PVDF, PETG etc etc. ABS used to be the material for its mechanical proerties back in the days when there wasnt much more than regular PLA and ABS. But if you have an industrial printer with heated chamber(like stratasys), then ABS is really good basic material to be used instead of PLA. Oh and not to mention some reinforced materials or the so called superplastics like Ultem or PEEK, which require industrial printers.

I think PLA and PETG are usually a good combo if you want easy to print materials and one bit more durable and you dont care to spend more money on stuff like modified tough PLA to be used as your basic material. ABS has its uses, but if PLA was not tough enough and i needed properties that are on ABS, i would rather pick some nylon instead. But ABS is also easier to sand and post process in general than nylon or PETG. So i might pick ABS over those in some cases. FDM printed nylon is pretty impossible to polish for example and annoying to even sand. ABS is good for drilling holes and tooling it in general, also because acetone melts ABS, you can easily fix small holes/printing errors by melting some abs on it and then sanding and do all sorts of stuff.

If you want something tough and with good heat resistance, you could get for example carbon reinforced nylon(sometimes called also PAHT or PA-HT). You got that hardened nozzle, so it should be ok(do check that there are no other easily abrasive parts, like wheels that moves the filament), as long as you can get high enough temperatures on nozzle and bed. There is also carbon reinforced PETG, but nylon has better properties and takes bending better, but carbon PETG is hard as hell and can take ok amount of heat.

Nylon that is a mixture between PA6 and PA6.6 have a good balance between being easily printable, not too much warping, good mechanical properties and heat resistance, and is not too hygrophobic. Which reminds me that people often miss the fact that all basic materials(excluding some expensive "super plastics" like PVDF) are hygrophobic, meaning they suck moisture form air to them and basically can ruin the material. TPU, nylons, PP are some of the ones that gets ruined the worst and fastest by air, but PET and PETG do also suck moisture quite a bit. PLA also, but not very fast. The filament starts to snap easily, the mechanical properties on prints are not good, neither does it look good. Different materials react a bit differently, but do keep them in a sealed bag with silica when not in use and especially if you use some highly hygrophobic materials in humid environment, consider buying or building some sort of box that houses the filament, keeps it dry, but with a hole where it can be fed to printer. You can try to dry up filament that sucked some moisture in oven, but its a hassle, might not get it perfectly dry or you might fuck up using too much heat or something. Nylon could get bad in hours if conditions are bad, but PLA in regular conditions exposed to room air can be good for months, maybe not 100% as good as brand new, but good enough. I would still aim for as little moisture exposure as possible, but not be as neurotic about it than with nylon or TPU.

Thanks for a very deep response, i will try to get my hands on some of the carbon reinforced nylon or carbon PETG, even tho its a little expensive id rather stay all clear with the netpots, it seems like you know very well what your talking about

when i print ABS i got a normal cardboard box arround the printer to keep temps up so its able to stay on the plate (i got the magnetic metal plate aswell so its harder to get abs to stick) but when i move at some point, im going to put it in a carbinet but i dont have the space for that right now unfortunately ! but i use PLA the most right now but is going to experiment with some flex etc later on =)

currently i also store my filaments in a thermal box with sillica bags that came with the filament, 2 for each roll

yes the print bed size opens alot of opportunities for some pretty big prints, but it still misses a bit of size to fit all my needs

IceBrr said:

Thanks for a very deep response, i will try to get my hands on some of the carbon reinforced nylon or carbon PETG, even tho its a little expensive id rather stay all clear with the netpots, it seems like you know very well what your talking about

when i print ABS i got a normal cardboard box arround the printer to keep temps up so its able to stay on the plate (i got the magnetic metal plate aswell so its harder to get abs to stick) but when i move at some point, im going to put it in a carbinet but i dont have the space for that right now unfortunately ! but i use PLA the most right now but is going to experiment with some flex etc later on =)

currently i also store my filaments in a thermal box with sillica bags that came with the filament, 2 for each roll

yes the print bed size opens alot of opportunities for some pretty big prints, but it still misses a bit of size to fit all my needs

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Oh i didnt mean that you should use carbon enforced nylon or pet with the net pots. Just in general if you need more durability or other properties. Regular PET should be plenty strong enough if the design is right. Nylon i would not use on netpots, but it makes a good durable material, nylon itself is pretty bendy, so its really tough and if you add carbon in it, it will become stiffer, but still not crack as easily as carbon PET for example, and it also increases its thermal properties, makes it warp a bit less. Glass reinforce PP is also a good material and its totally foodsafe in this situation and you could clean it with isopropyl after each grow and reuse safer than PET. PP is even softer than nylon, but glass makes it hard enough for many uses

Yea a cardboard box should do the trick. However do keep in mind that the microparticles fall on the bottom, on table and on printer inside the box, so if you go sniffing over there, you might inhale nasty amounts of them. But its easy to vacuum or wipe away, its like ultra fine dust that gets blown around very easily.

Flex materials are fun, but quite challenging, especially if the printer is not well suited for them. Also if there is no special feeder, 1.75mm filament is especially hard to print. Softer the filament harder it gets. Unless you got a special feeder system in it, it would be really hard to print especially the softer flex materials.

However BASF does have this TPU(flex) that has a hard outer shell on the filament that makes it easier to print even with normal feeder and all. I think its 80A hardness, so should be soft, but it felt harder when i handled one print. It might had been printed with too high temp or something that caused it to go harder than normal or something, dunno. 95A is the most common TPU/Flex. If you got a special feeder for flex and can print even softer flexes, i recommend trying ninjaflex or BASF 85A TPU.

Yea there is something especially cool with large printers, but that 30x30x40 is already very large build volume. Also you can always make larger object by gluing many parts together Consider if you want to make life size human print and you would make the parts with that vs something with fr example 20x20x20 build volume or even smaller

CannaOnerStar said:

However BASF does have this TPU(flex) that has a hard outer shell on the filament that makes it easier to print even with normal feeder and all. I think its 80A hardness, so should be soft, but it felt harder when i handled one print. It might had been printed with too high temp or something that caused it to go harder than normal or something, dunno. 95A is the most common TPU/Flex. If you got a special feeder for flex and can print even softer flexes, i recommend trying ninjaflex or BASF 85A TPU.

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what do you think about this product for pots : https://www.amazon.de/-/en/3R3DTM-Glass-Reinforced-Polypropylene-Filament/dp/B01N3BNQLA

should i go for a more expensive product, this seems very cheap compared to everything else i found with glass reinforced pp, actually i never heard of this kind of filament before.. other manufactors seem to have the % of glass fiber noted but these dont.. most got 16-30% what % would u go with for pots

I had some PH problems for a day or 2 and it was enough to show deffiencies on the plants, it should be fixed now i calibrated my ph pen and adjusted it again with new water and nutes...

i topped the gorilla glues..

Gorilla punch, had a rough start and apparently dried enough out in the first day, so it had to grow a new root ? i think, seems pretty wierd atleast

IceBrr said:

what do you think about this product for pots : https://www.amazon.de/-/en/3R3DTM-Glass-Reinforced-Polypropylene-Filament/dp/B01N3BNQLA

should i go for a more expensive product, this seems very cheap compared to everything else i found with glass reinforced pp, actually i never heard of this kind of filament before.. other manufactors seem to have the % of glass fiber noted but these dont.. most got 16-30% what % would u go with for pots

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Well personally i would just use normal PP, because its already strong enough. I dont know about that particular filament, i have only used the more expensive glass PP ones like xstrand and basf, but its not a material i have used a lot in general.

At some point too much glass could make the prints more prone to tearing, especially if the filament was not properly dry or in general printed properly. PP itself has a very good tear resistance and layer adhesion with proper nozzle temperatures and glass does not really help with this. It just makes it harder to bend, harder, but not necessarily any more tear resistant. PP itself is very soft, a lot of reusable food containers are PP for example, and also soda bottle caps if you want an idea of how soft it is, but it is not elastic like TPU or other flex materials, it loses its shape if you stretch it unlike rubbery flex materials.

Glass makes it harder and resist bending, and also it makes it a bit easier to print because there is less warping(still use box and all that and avoid warping like with ABS).

The problem with cheap filaments in general, especially with ones with additives like carbon or glass fibre, is that the fibres might not be equally big, but there might be a lot of small strands that have no use and then also some too long ones that could glog up the nozzle easily. Also there fibres might be unevenly distributed on the filament or something like that, along with deviations in filament thickness etc.

I dunno how good this brand is, but i do see that its really cheap. Could be good enough tho. In general i havent used much of any cheaper brands of filament, its work related stuff so we only use premium brands. Its cheaper to use more expensive filaments than taking chances with cheaper filaments when its about money and i never was a hobbyist before i got into the business. but i do know that for hobbyist using all that money for premium filaments is not worth it always. Maybe if you have some special needs, but in general if you find a good cheap brand of basic materials, its good enough for personal use, especially you might want some cheap PLA or PETG that you can waste without going bankrupt. Its also worth looking into bigger spools of basic materials. Especially if you mostly print like black PLA, it might be worth getting a 3kg spool or something, you can save a bit of money or possibly get some preium brand for almost same kg price than buying cheaper brand small spools.

edits.

CannaOnerStar said:

Well personally i would just use normal PP, because its already strong enough. I dont know about that particular filament, i have only used the more expensive glass PP ones like xstrand and basf, but its not a material i have used a lot in general.

At some point too much glass could make the prints more prone to tearing, especially if the filament was properly dry and in general printed properly. PP itself has a very good tear resistance and layer adhesion with proper nozzle temperatures and glass does not really help with this. It just makes it harder to bend, harder, but not necessarily any more tear resistant. PP itself is very soft, a lot of reusable food containers are PP for example, and also soda bottle caps if you want an idea of how soft it is, but it is not elastic like TPU or other flex materials, it loses its shape if you stretch it unlike rubbery flex materials.

Glass makes it harder and resist bending, and also it makes it a bit easier to print because there is less warping(still use box and all that and avoid warping like with ABS).

The problem with cheap filaments in general, especially with ones with additives like carbon or glass fibre, is that the fibres might not be equally big, but there might be a lot of small strands that have no use and then also some too long ones that could glog up the nozzle easily. Also there fibres might be unevenly distributed on the filament or something like that, along with deviations in filament thickness etc.

I dunno how good this brand is, but i do see that its really cheap. Could be good enough tho. In general i havent used much of any cheaper brands of filament, its work related stuff so we only use premium brands. Its cheaper to use more expensive filaments than taking chances with cheaper filaments when its about money and i never was a hobbyist before i got into the business.

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ye this one is almost too cheap to be true that is what i though aswell, its 1/3 of other top brands but i try to find some actually PP would probably be perfect then, i though about makign a click fit pot so they cannot tip over at all ! I guess i have to give a few materials a test run, or maybe just add some flex material to the "click in" fitting..

i try with PP to start off with then ! thanks alot for your time mate, you put alot of time into your posts in this thread, yet again thansk alot !

IceBrr said:

ye this one is almost too cheap to be true that is what i though aswell, its 1/3 of other top brands but i try to find some actually PP would probably be perfect then, i though about makign a click fit pot so they cannot tip over at all ! I guess i have to give a few materials a test run, or maybe just add some flex material to the "click in" fitting..

i try with PP to start off with then ! thanks alot for your time mate, you put alot of time into your posts in this thread, yet again thansk alot !

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PP is actually great for this sort of snap joints

Here is an example of a box that is built from one part:


Its design is not opimal for that sort of locking mechanism, but it will give you an idea how PP can be used. Flex materials are too soft and bendy for click in fittings, PP is perfect if you want soft bendy thing or if you want something that holds a bit better, PETG is ok. Glass PP actually would work nicely also if you want something a bit harder and not as bendy as pure PP. Some nylons would also work for stiffer alternative.

PP is also good for hinges etc because its slippery and resistant to friction damage type of thing due to being soft.

It does not lose its shape unless you bend it too much, little bending it does just fine, but if you bend over a certain limit, it loses shape.

This is turning into quite an education on 3D printing. Can you guys tell me what water reservoirs are made of? I always assumed HDPE.

Snowback said:

This is turning into quite an education on 3D printing. Can you guys tell me what water reservoirs are made of? I always assumed HDPE.

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PP(polypropylene) is most common for this and makes most sense.

Snowback said:

This is turning into quite an education on 3D printing. Can you guys tell me what water reservoirs are made of? I always assumed HDPE.

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Yea some great information to have, that came in from an unexpected forum

day 44, the plant to the left closest to the entrance of the tent, made a few other plants fall due to its weight so there a bit of chaos going on in the back right of the tent, i cant really get in a help out before i get some more rollers to bind them up




A + B 30per 10l
Vitalize 1ml per 10l
ultimate pk 25ml per 10l
calmag 13ml pr 10l

day 44

edit: fixed the branches that fell

day 45
a few nug shots.. it started to foxtail quite a bit, but its a genetic foxtail, all the lower buds does it aswell
a few of the edges started to turn purple not sure why tho, i think its nutrient related... arround 1-2% amber trichomes but still alot of glassy ones

Mother / veg room

more bondage the gorilla punch at first sight seems to be 50/50 pheno.. because of the starting problems i think it will be hard to get one of them in there for the next run(atleast a clone), but i will try to make it happen and maybe just take a f1 as motherplant if its great

Day 46 more foxtails are visible, and more purple edges... If the gorilla is ready late next week i will start flushing them all, if not i will flush the bubblecakes for 24 hours and then harvest them, then keep the gorillas a bit longer

i im blasting the light in the veg room up to 80% instead of the 40ish its on right now for the next few days.. to see if they are ready to grow

Day 47

I checked trichomes on the gorilla again today and im kinda amazed how fast the trichomes turned amber.. i added a picture with red circled to show the amber trichomes on the buds i expect to flush in 1-2 days depending on how mutch water is in the tank at the point

it matured so freaking fast this time, i dont know why but i use to flower it for atleast 60 days before the % of amber trichomes is this high

IceBrr,thanks for posted height,it helped me find
right place for my lamp
Hope my "dinafem" gorillas will flower fast as yours

samayabolshayapustota said:

IceBrr,thanks for posted height,it helped me find
right place for my lamp
Hope my "dinafem" gorillas will flower fast as yours

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No problem ! hope they grow fast =) do you have a growlog ?