Rust on leaves, and quetsion about pH drift

Jkooper

Active Member
I'm in week 5 of my DWC autoflower and the plant tripled its size within the past week and a half. Early on during week 2 I was getting rust spots on my leaves, but after switching to the lucas formula the problem seemed to stop. I add calmag to my R/O water and my pH has been at a steady 5.8. I'm either thinking its calcium related or too much phosphorus. The rust spots are on leaves that are in about the center of the plant and the rust spots always start near the tips of the leaf. I recently upped the pH closer to 6 to maybe try to decrease P intake and increase cal a tad.

Any idea about what deficiency/excess this could be? My res is at ~800ppm and the top off nutrient water is ~970ppm.

Also... I keep reading that the lucas formula used with R/O water was suppose to be "pH perfect", but after adding the micro and bloom, my pH is at about 4.5-4.7 and I need to pH up till it hits 5.8. My pH drifts slightly downwards to 5.6-5.7 over then span of like 5 days but I always read that peoples pH always rises. So my question is, does pH always drift up when needing to use pH down and drift down when using pH up?
 

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ive only tried dwc once but do you change your res out compleatly, and start a fresh after adding an equal amount of ph water to the res that its used by the plant, ie topping up the res by 20l of ph'd water if your res is 20l.
ph will drift all day long, by temp and pressure changes in the atmosphere affecting your grow
but i cant remember much about the experiment now
 
You could have fixed the problem as the damage won't recover once done. That spotting is normally a sign of a calcium deficiency.
 
I have been fully changing it out every 7 days. It's getting to the point that it's drinking a half gallon a day, so I just started topping off about a week and a half ago.
Wait til it's in full flower and drinking well over a gallon a day. That's when the real fun begins.
 
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