Samsung F Strip Build

end_of_the_tunnel

Well-Known Member
Sweet build system. I see an opportunity for UK/EU based vendor of that Chinese extrusion. Ideal for running led strips at higher currents.

Lukio have you got ballpark idea on efficiency, and space you thinking of? When you say racks, do you mean rack/shelves like in a warehouse? Or rack as in rack light like fluence spyder?

The choice of led is boggling. Aside from the digikey/mouser route,there are quite a few UK based suppliers, and even cutter. Bet some of the gurus could assist with spec-out of BOM's for various product to suit situation.
 

BlackmoreRulz

Active Member
After reading this thread, and seeing some of the great builds on here. I have changed my mind on buying the QB132's and am going with these strips from Arrow but I could use some sage advice on what I am trying to do.

I have a 42" x 42" space that I have designated for flowering, I am thinking 3 or 4 strips might be enough for this, but I also am thinking about putting together some 2 strip lights for vegging a couple of plants at a time in another couple of areas. I also want to use a couple of the 2 strip setups for growing garden vegetables.

My questions are, which spectrum should I use for each, is it possible to run a couple of 3000k strips with a 5000k strip on the same driver? Should I use a different spectrum for flowering over vegging, and in turn a different one for the wifes veggies? I don't care to light up the night sky or anything, and I need it to run as cool as possible since my A/C struggles to cool the house during the dead of summer, just want to flower a couple of plants at a time and still have another light to veg another couple of plants with to keep the cycle going.

Which driver would be best to run 4 strips and which for just running two?

Have been lurking here for a month or so and I have read and learned a lot but I guess I haven't been able to ascertain the answers to my questions, TIA for any replies.
 
I am also considering getting my feet wet with the cheap arrow strips. My plan; 36 strips with 3 hgl320h48’s (12 strips w/driver; wired parallel) over a 4x8 table. Thoughts were no heat sink since strips were ran kind of soft. Should put me around 30 Watts per sq ft. Veg to flower, start to finish.... thoughts on this? Idk if it’s even possible, brainstorming still. Input welcome.
 
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maddmango

Well-Known Member
I am also considering getting my feet wet with the cheap arrow strips. My plan; 36 strips with 3 hgl320h48’s (12 strips w/driver; wired parallel) over a 4x8 table. Thoughts were no heat sink since strips were ran kind of soft. Should put me around 30 Watts per sq ft. Veg to flower, start to finish.... thoughts on this? Idk if it’s even possible, brainstorming still. Input welcome.
In the same boat with the same question. How soft should I run the 30 strips that I have in order to avoid using a heatsink?
 

CraigMk

Well-Known Member
Ooooooo....look what just arrived!
View attachment 4548641
Frames are ready to go, potentiometers are mounted to their brackets, and the drivers which will be outside of the tent are mounted to a frame and have the long leads ready to go.
View attachment 4548642
Just waiting on my heatsinks and then I can finally get these lights built!
Have you got the serial number for the strips mate . What diodes are they on there? Cheers
 

Gullett79

Active Member
I'm still waiting on my hlg-480h-48a driver from TRC, so I'm trying to get everything together in the meantime. My frame is going to be 48x24 and I'm going to most likely use 10 of the SL-B8U7N90L1WW strips. I'm wondering would I need heatsinks running them at around 45-48 watts each or would a 4x2 aluminum sheet within the frame be ok?
 

CaliWorthington

Well-Known Member
Do I have this figured out correctly?
To run 6 of the SL-B8V7N90L1WW-LED Modules
I want a HLG- 320H-48 driver?
Strips are rated at 1.38 mA max current.
I'm running 6 strips on an HLG-240H-48, which is 0.83 mA per strip.
An HLG-320H is 1.1 mA per strip (x6). That should be good.
I wonder if I should run mine hotter?
I do like being able to put them closer to the plants and run passive cooling, though.
 
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CraigMk

Well-Known Member
Strips are rated at 1.38 mA max current.
I'm running 6 strips on an HLG-240H-48, which is 0.83 mA per strip.
An HLG-320H is 1.1 mA per strip (x6). That should be good.
I wonder if I should run mine hotter?
I do like being able to put them closer to the plants and run passive cooling, though.
Hello ,

sorry to but in, what have you mounted yours strips too?

Thanks
 

CaliWorthington

Well-Known Member
Hello ,

sorry to but in, what have you mounted yours strips too?

Thanks
No worries. I have 3 strips (each) mounted on 5.88" x 24" heatsinks.
I'm using the heatsinks in groups of 5, so I'd need a Meanwell 320 and a 480 to run 15 strips at 1.1 mA.
Currently using a pair of 240's and a 120.
 

TreeFarmerCharlie

Well-Known Member
Does anyone her know if 14AWG solid core wire will fit in the terminals on the F-Strips? I've seen people recommend 18AWG, but have a bunch of 14AWG romex here, so thought I would check before I go and buy more wire.
 

Major Blazer

Well-Known Member
Again, F strips are designed to be able to operate within specs @ rated current in 'FREE AIR'. They don't REQUIRE heatsinks, just a structure to mount them.
Idk man I ran 4 LT-F564B's under nominal (1050mAh) using 2" HSUSA heatsinks and they got plenty hot enough for me to think some type of thermal material is required, especially considering they are epoxy pcb's. I have H-Influx now which have an aluminum PCB and ran them at 750mAh for some seedlings completely in open air and they stayed ok to me but still plenty warm, and that's well under nominal. How are you coming to this conclusion? Not criticizing just curious.
 

Major Blazer

Well-Known Member
Does anyone her know if 14AWG solid core wire will fit in the terminals on the F-Strips? I've seen people recommend 18AWG, but have a bunch of 14AWG romex here, so thought I would check before I go and buy more wire.
The data sheets say 18awg for the one pin poke in, same as for the h-influx I have now but I just stripped a 14awg wire to test fit this for you and it fit just fine, barely but very secure. YMMV
 

TreeFarmerCharlie

Well-Known Member
The data sheets say 18awg for the one pin poke in, same as for the h-influx I have now but I just stripped a 14awg wire to test fit this for you and it fit just fine, barely but very secure. YMMV
Thanks! You totally didn't have to do that for me, though. I have some here, I just didn't want to break anything by test fitting the wire.
 

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
Idk man I ran 4 LT-F564B's under nominal (1050mAh) using 2" HSUSA heatsinks and they got plenty hot enough for me to think some type of thermal material is required, especially considering they are epoxy pcb's. I have H-Influx now which have an aluminum PCB and ran them at 750mAh for some seedlings completely in open air and they stayed ok to me but still plenty warm, and that's well under nominal. How are you coming to this conclusion? Not criticizing just curious.
The F strips are commercial lighting fixtures. They are designed to operate in simple sheet metal housings, just like the fluorescents they replaced.
 
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