Samsung F Strip Build

TreeFarmerCharlie

Well-Known Member
I probably should have said I'm from the UK, do they even ship to UK? No doubt it will be expensive. More then the heat sinks ..
The easiest way to know would be to go through the checkout process without finalizing it. Mine showed shipping costs before I paid. They are also holding all shipments until May 1st due to the lockdown. I asked for clarification and was told that they will have my order cut to length and ready to go so they will only need to get them shipped out once the lockdown order is lifted.
 

H2OBO

Well-Known Member
The easiest way to know would be to go through the checkout process without finalizing it. Mine showed shipping costs before I paid. They are also holding all shipments until May 1st due to the lockdown. I asked for clarification and was told that they will have my order cut to length and ready to go so they will only need to get them shipped out once the lockdown order is lifted.
My 48” heatsinks went from approx $18 each to $23 Ish with ship to San Diego CA. Bummer on delays. Time to order drivers.. hlg-48h-480a.

Planning a little experiment, run the driver through a flipper to service two small rooms
 

TreeFarmerCharlie

Well-Known Member
My 48” heatsinks went from approx $18 each to $23 Ish with ship to San Diego CA. Bummer on delays. Time to order drivers.. hlg-48h-480a.

Planning a little experiment, run the driver through a flipper to service two small rooms
Yeah, I'm itching to get my lights built. I probably won't have the rest of my LED strips until mid-May, but I have the 2020 rails, and the drivers, so I'm going to get started on building the frames and pre-wiring them this weekend, mount the heatsinks when they arrive, and then all I will need to do is mount the strips when they come.
 

Barristan Whitebeard

Well-Known Member
My 48” heatsinks went from approx $18 each to $23 Ish with ship to San Diego CA. Bummer on delays. Time to order drivers.. hlg-48h-480a.

Planning a little experiment, run the driver through a flipper to service two small rooms
Hey man,

You will just want to change that to Mean well HLG-480H-48A so you make sure you order the correct driver.

 

H2OBO

Well-Known Member
Hey man,

You will just want to change that to Mean well HLG-480H-48A so you make sure you order the correct driver.

Thats the one, thank you,
 

Jdog666

Active Member
Greetings, all. Wasn't sure if I should make a new thread or not, but some of my inquiries seem relevant, so hopefully it's cool that I'm posting them here.

The recommended build on the PLC site (The Samsung 301b strip build, that's intended to be a 1000W DE alternative) caught my eye, and I'd like to do something similar.

Are the $6/ea Samsung strips that got posted earlier (https://www.arrow.com/en/products/sl-b8r7n90l1ww/samsung-electronics) comparable to PLC's "flagship"? I'm Looking to get 16 of them, and hoping to get the most out of a 4x4 space. All of the specs are a lot to take in and make sense of currently, hah.

In that aforementioned build, they suggest 2 HLG320h-c1400b Drivers. Would this still be applicable with those strips from Arrow? I assume 2 are entirely necessary for that many strips?

Hoping to get a hold of some cheap aluminum for the framing. It seems eight 46" heatsinks are appropriate as well. I'll grab some thermal tape, too, of course.

Lastly - I'm curious about wiring accessories, since there seems to be a few different options here. Will I be fine with Wago Connectors, the appropriate power cords (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BQB7FH5/ these are rec'd in the PLC build), and 18 gauge wire? Looks like that's the basis of most people's wiring, but I wasn't sure if things like IP67 connectors and Junction Boxes are truly needed.

Thanks in advance for the help, as well as tolerating my vague understanding of all this. Apologies if this should be in it's own thread, too. Infinite positivity and good health to the whole RIU squad in these strange times! Can't wait to get a grow going.
 

Gullett79

Active Member
So, I got my strips in from Arrow a couple days ago and some material for my frame from Lowe's yesterday. About to order some miscellaneous things from Amazon and my heatsinks, but I'm a bit confused with the driver. My plan was to go with the MW HLG-480H-48A. While looking on Arrow, I noticed the different 480H-48 drivers are listed with different pin counts. The 48A shows a pin count of 5. This being my first time ever really messing with electrical components, I'm not sure what this means.
 

CaliWorthington

Well-Known Member
So, I got my strips in from Arrow a couple days ago and some material for my frame from Lowe's yesterday. About to order some miscellaneous things from Amazon and my heatsinks, but I'm a bit confused with the driver. My plan was to go with the MW HLG-480H-48A. While looking on Arrow, I noticed the different 480H-48 drivers are listed with different pin counts. The 48A shows a pin count of 5. This being my first time ever really messing with electrical components, I'm not sure what this means.
Congrats on the strips. The 5-pin spec on that driver refers to the number of wire leads. It ends with the letter "A", which means the dimming is controlled by a potentiometer on the driver that you turn with a small screwdriver. Therefore it has only 5 leads, 3 for the AC input (ground, live and neutral), and 2 for the DC output (+/-). If you want to be able to wire up some external dimming control, get the HLG-480H-48B instead. The ones that end with "B" are 7-pin, because there are also 2 dimming wires.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
auge wire? Looks like that's the basis of most people's wiring, but I wasn't sure if things like IP67 connectors and Junction Boxes are truly needed.
Technically all wire to wire connections should be made in a box with an appropriate cable gland for each of the entry and exit wires.


I simply solder on a ring terminal and then I can easily solder a harness of wires to this ring and cover with heat shrink rather than use those ugly molexes.IMG_20190825_141400.jpg
 

iPerculate

Well-Known Member
What power levels and height off the canopy are you running them at for veg and flower? I’m trying to get an idea for when I finish building mine.
With the HLG-320 driver turned all the way up on 6 strips, I was getting around 1.25-1.3A per strip at 47.7V - right around 60 watts per strip. Most of the time I was running at around 50 watts per strip and turned it down more towards the end of flower.

I dont have much experience with these strips yet so I dont want to give out bad info, but it seems the standard 12"-18" flower, 18"-24" for veg is about right. Depends how hard you run them and how much your plants can take in that environment.

I'm going to let these 5 seedlings go another few days under the CFL before going under the F strips.
 

TreeFarmerCharlie

Well-Known Member
With the HLG-320 driver turned all the way up on 6 strips, I was getting around 1.25-1.3A per strip at 47.7V - right around 60 watts per strip. Most of the time I was running at around 50 watts per strip and turned it down more towards the end of flower.

I dont have much experience with these strips yet so I dont want to give out bad info, but it seems the standard 12"-18" flower, 18"-24" for veg is about right. Depends how hard you run them and how much your plants can take in that environment.

I'm going to let these 5 seedlings go another few days under the CFL before going under the F strips.
I’m building mine differently, so I’m sure I’ll need to do a lot of testing when they are done. I’m going with 4 of the same strips with the XLG-240-H-AB driver, bit will be making two of these lights to evenly cover my 4x4.
 

CaliWorthington

Well-Known Member
I've been keeping my strips about 6" above the highest bud during flowering, and 10-12" during veg. The yellow leaf tips I thought may have been light burn, were caused by a nutrient imbalance. Back when I was using COB's, some sativas would grow right up to the LED with no problems.

I should add that my room isn't getting above 74 degrees. In fact, these run so cool, I had to put a heater in there to get it above the 60's last week. If my temps were in the 80's I might have the strips up a little higher from the tops.
 
Last edited:
Top