Samsung F562B Linear Strip Build

Takeshy said:
You can easily avoid this by just unplugging the driver from the wall while fixing something in your build, dont you?
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Ahm..., I am always taking care of my plants, while the light is on, so there is always the possibility for me to get in touch, due to the small space. I can also only adjust the light properly, when it‘s on. So I like the idea, safty first...
 
OLD MOTHER SATIVA said:
all you need to do is to move this type of system closer
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Also the style of grow can add to the overall efficiency. Having lights close to the top cola but 3ft from the lower buds (non ScrOG) means side lighting would be required to keep up a good level of PPFD. If a ScrOG is used then it makes a big difference.
 
Randomblame said:
Upps! Sorry, I mean a housing for the strips and a acrylic glas sheet in front of the strips. Like in Nextlight's Mini or latest ChillLed boards.
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What about the ledil florence r1, it would be enough? My wife wants to have these strips above the aquarium, any other safty considerations?
 
Randomblame said:
BTW,
You use double Row F-strips with 288 LED's, you need 3 4ft. EB-strips(96) for the same amount of diodes. Your strips run at 2,24A so 103w, to get 103w from the 3 EB strips you need to drive them at 775mA or 2,325A when wired in parallel. Effiency would be 168lm/w on the F-Series and 154lm/w for the EB's. Also if you run the EB's at only 500mA and use 5 strips you'll get only 162lm/w.
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I don't know which diodes the EB's use and how they compare to the LM561C's?
 
OLD MOTHER SATIVA said:
well of course its all about ppfd
and multiple sources of light at lower more efficient design is the way
all you need to do is to move this type of system closer and not waste photonsthatare only lighting
the air between the light and the plant
ie.the 6x 250 w panels i am running at 100w will absolutely cream the even coverage of something of less diodes
higher intensity..and a unit that has to be hung 18" from the canopy..i am still experimenting
but i am able to get closer than i previously thought..no belaching no leaf burn..just many many photons from every direction
and i use the agricultural outcome" to back me up
the coverage on a 4 x 4 doing this is crazy good..but one needs to buck up and get the over abundant number od diodes
which in doing so..also negate the need for expensive sinks..its working better than i dreamed
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I bought 26 F strips for this reason to get 1872 pieces for an area of 10ft².
I just do not know if I should rather build two 250w downlights or a kind of ZunCloak with 500w. But since they shall be sold later(~1y, when they get replaced by a better one), I tend more to 2 downlights covering the whole canopy.


Takeshy said:
You can easily avoid this by just unplugging the driver from the wall while fixing something in your build, dont you?
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Let's say you're working under your lamp, hangs just a few inches above your head, and then you're accidentally tearing out a cable ... I do not know how big your room is, but the are strips are hanging closely over the canopy.. There is a chance to get electrocuted bevore you are able to switch the driver of.
 
Randome..i am finding multi diode penetration over the whole area is still way good....from over head
[not use less diodes on a smaller more convenient frame run em hotter and say "raise your light to 18"..is the way to go
i think many many diodes[, less wattage per diode and much much closer is the real deal.].as well as zero need to cool
i wanted to wait until i was seeing what appears to be the case..i am a grower first..i gotta believe what i see...not what i hear


on a not intended exaggerated mode
some of my plants in one test pod are 5 -6 feet tall[bad timing ] and unless they are shaded even those buds are not bad..
still its not what i planned them for
 
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Randomblame said:
I bought 26 F strips for this reason to get 1872 pieces for an area of 10ft².
I just do not know if I should rather build two 250w downlights or a kind of ZunCloak with 500w. But since they shall be sold later(~1y, when they get replaced by a better one), I tend more to 2 downlights covering the whole canopy.




Let's say you're working under your lamp, hangs just a few inches above your head, and then you're accidentally tearing out a cable ... I do not know how big your room is, but the are strips are hanging closely over the canopy.. There is a chance to get electrocuted bevore you are able to switch the driver of.
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Yeah I think 2 x 250W would be better in terms of practicality. Moving/selling 1 large fixture might mean it has to be disassembled. Plus there's probably more profit in 2 pieces over 1.
 
Serva said:
Please, could you point out what „enclosures that protects the connections“ are (sorry, langue barrier...)? I got my HVGC-100-350A for under 20$, so there was no other decision than taking these, and running series circuit. But I would like to make sure it‘s safe!
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If you already have the drivers, it makes no sense to replace them.
Make sure you somehow fix the wires or wire them invisibly, inside of the c-channels on the backside maybe. Therefor you need only to drill a few holes more and use longer wires.
Unfortunately, there is no strain relief on the strips, as they are actually made for LED tubes.
 
Stone_Free said:
Yeah I think 2 x 250W would be better in terms of practicality. Moving/selling 1 large fixture might mean it has to be disassembled. Plus there's probably more profit in 2 pieces over 1.
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Yeah, a ZunCloak must be made to my need, this means 3 frames á 24x 24"(for both sides and the middle) and two with 48x 24" (for back wall and ceiling). The buyer would have to have an identical tent.
Profit does not matter to me, after a year they has already paid off.
 
I see reports of people having voltage drop while connecting many strips (20+) in parallel and there's also the thermal runaway.

Wouldn't this be also a concern while choosing a parallel circuit? @Randomblame
 
Nope, there is not much difference in forward voltage of todays LED's, so no big thermal runaways.
There is always a drop as longer the circuits are.
If they all cooled in the same way and to the same temps, I see no reason why not parallel.
There is also a voltage poti to limit the max. voltage, in this case I would set it to ~46v, this would avoid possibly thermal runaways to a cretain point, because when they get ~700mA they would only need ~45,5v.
 
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