Stone_Free
Well-Known Member
Yeah definitely useful/interesting. I'm not sure if there is a "cheap" option to measure this. I have a lux meter but that doesn't seem a way to get a reasonably accurate reading?
Samsung F562B Linear Strip Build
- Thread starter Takeshy
- Start date
Serva
Well-Known Member
Ahm..., I am always taking care of my plants, while the light is on, so there is always the possibility for me to get in touch, due to the small space. I can also only adjust the light properly, when it‘s on. So I like the idea, safty first...
Stone_Free
Well-Known Member
Also the style of grow can add to the overall efficiency. Having lights close to the top cola but 3ft from the lower buds (non ScrOG) means side lighting would be required to keep up a good level of PPFD. If a ScrOG is used then it makes a big difference.
Serva
Well-Known Member
What about the ledil florence r1, it would be enough? My wife wants to have these strips above the aquarium, any other safty considerations?
Stone_Free
Well-Known Member
I don't know which diodes the EB's use and how they compare to the LM561C's?
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
I bought 26 F strips for this reason to get 1872 pieces for an area of 10ft².
I just do not know if I should rather build two 250w downlights or a kind of ZunCloak with 500w. But since they shall be sold later(~1y, when they get replaced by a better one), I tend more to 2 downlights covering the whole canopy.
Let's say you're working under your lamp, hangs just a few inches above your head, and then you're accidentally tearing out a cable ... I do not know how big your room is, but the are strips are hanging closely over the canopy.. There is a chance to get electrocuted bevore you are able to switch the driver of.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
OLD MOTHER SATIVA
Well-Known Member
Randome..i am finding multi diode penetration over the whole area is still way good....from over head
[not use less diodes on a smaller more convenient frame run em hotter and say "raise your light to 18"..is the way to go
i think many many diodes[, less wattage per diode and much much closer is the real deal.].as well as zero need to cool
i wanted to wait until i was seeing what appears to be the case..i am a grower first..i gotta believe what i see...not what i hear
on a not intended exaggerated mode
some of my plants in one test pod are 5 -6 feet tall[bad timing ] and unless they are shaded even those buds are not bad..
still its not what i planned them for
[not use less diodes on a smaller more convenient frame run em hotter and say "raise your light to 18"..is the way to go
i think many many diodes[, less wattage per diode and much much closer is the real deal.].as well as zero need to cool
i wanted to wait until i was seeing what appears to be the case..i am a grower first..i gotta believe what i see...not what i hear
on a not intended exaggerated mode
some of my plants in one test pod are 5 -6 feet tall[bad timing ] and unless they are shaded even those buds are not bad..
still its not what i planned them for
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Stone_Free
Well-Known Member
Yeah I think 2 x 250W would be better in terms of practicality. Moving/selling 1 large fixture might mean it has to be disassembled. Plus there's probably more profit in 2 pieces over 1.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
If you already have the drivers, it makes no sense to replace them.
Make sure you somehow fix the wires or wire them invisibly, inside of the c-channels on the backside maybe. Therefor you need only to drill a few holes more and use longer wires.
Unfortunately, there is no strain relief on the strips, as they are actually made for LED tubes.
Stone_Free
Well-Known Member
Definitely agree with that. Theory is great for designing a lighting rig but the real proof is in the end result. Pulling all the bits together - lights/plants/grow style/nutes/feeding regime is the really interesting part.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Only if they cover the plug-in connectors with. But I believe they do..
OLD MOTHER SATIVA
Well-Known Member
damn i didn't get to correct the typos in that quote..
i went back and corrected misssing the extra g in exaggerate
i went back and corrected misssing the extra g in exaggerate
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Yeah, a ZunCloak must be made to my need, this means 3 frames á 24x 24"(for both sides and the middle) and two with 48x 24" (for back wall and ceiling). The buyer would have to have an identical tent.
Profit does not matter to me, after a year they has already paid off.
Takeshy
Well-Known Member
I see reports of people having voltage drop while connecting many strips (20+) in parallel and there's also the thermal runaway.
Wouldn't this be also a concern while choosing a parallel circuit? @Randomblame
Wouldn't this be also a concern while choosing a parallel circuit? @Randomblame
Rider509
Well-Known Member
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Nope, there is not much difference in forward voltage of todays LED's, so no big thermal runaways.
There is always a drop as longer the circuits are.
If they all cooled in the same way and to the same temps, I see no reason why not parallel.
There is also a voltage poti to limit the max. voltage, in this case I would set it to ~46v, this would avoid possibly thermal runaways to a cretain point, because when they get ~700mA they would only need ~45,5v.
There is always a drop as longer the circuits are.
If they all cooled in the same way and to the same temps, I see no reason why not parallel.
There is also a voltage poti to limit the max. voltage, in this case I would set it to ~46v, this would avoid possibly thermal runaways to a cretain point, because when they get ~700mA they would only need ~45,5v.
Rider509
Well-Known Member
Voltage drop is a problem only if you wire the strips end to end.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
I just wanted to suggest him to read your thread, because you have already published some readings there.
Rider509
Well-Known Member
Did I? Hell, I can't remember yesterday.