Sea level and hg for bho

json/mtl

Member
what do u mean by roll it up a few times and when i run it muffins all the time but doesnt pop so i dont know how not to get a muffin
 

650baquet

Active Member
Fadedawg was meaning you can start the first muffin, and if it's going to get so big that it will grow off the parchment paper or stick to the walls of the vacuum, you just release the vacuum-pull it out and work it/fold it back into a pile then vacuum again, repeat if necessary.
 

json/mtl

Member
i dont do big enough runs for that too happen, but are u supposed to let the muffin pop or it wont make a difference
 

650baquet

Active Member
If you're not doing a big run you can just leave the vacuum running, depending on how warm the extract is the muffin could get large then almost completely deflate while continuing to release smaller bubbles, eventually you may end up with a "bubble less" product or it might dry out and look waxy, I wouldn't suggest warming your extract above 120F(at any point). If you want a more pure extract you can perform a winterizing process that removes shit that gunks up your lungs. Keep askin questions man!
 

json/mtl

Member
i checked out that winterizing thing and a couple of things i noticed, 1 how do u even find the special lab type alcohol and 2 isnt it even harder to puge out alcohol cuz it has a way higher boiling point therfor a whole new purging process will have to happen. no?
 

vacpurge

New Member
everclear can be found at a liquor store if youre state allows. or order it online from winechateau.com

its pretty easy to purge. just takes longer. you set it on a hot plate at around 180F and let it sit for an hour. whereas butane takes 10 minutes on that hotplae, not even. even less temp. but yeah, everclear is not hard to cook off at all. just do it outside! I remember doing it in a room one day.. young and stupid. the fumes got me high/drunk they were so strong for so long. my clothes smelled like 99% alcohol. there was morons smoking everywhere. I am so thankful me (the maker) and that room didnt blow up. do it safely!

winterizing is worth the 30$ extra that it costs and 24 extra hours to save your lungs. get rid of those plant waxes!
 

650baquet

Active Member
You don't even need the temp to be 180F for a thin film evap. Especially since you do small runs currently. The first time i winterized i just used a pyrex pan overtop a hot water bath and monitored the temp of the pan until around 115F then i added the everclear/oil solution to the pan in drops and it evaps really fast, then scrape it up and drop some more onto the pan...the main reason i did it this way was to avoid having to scrap the sides and corners of the pan. Then vacuum it while it's warmed to the 115F....or if you have a big enough vac chamber you can place the whole pan in there and vac the whole pool of everclear while it's warmed to 115F
 

json/mtl

Member
so u just cook it off for an hour at 115 f and before that put it in the freezer for an hour, 1 tbls per g?
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
i checked out that winterizing thing and a couple of things i noticed, 1 how do u even find the special lab type alcohol and 2 isnt it even harder to puge out alcohol cuz it has a way higher boiling point therfor a whole new purging process will have to happen. no?
No special lab grade alcohol required. We use 190 Proof Everclear from the liquor store.

200 Proof reagent grades of alcohol are not necessarily as pure as the 190 proof azeotropic grades, except for the added water.

When you distill off a water ethanol mixture, the ethanol boils off first up to about 95.6% (190 proof), and then the water and alcohol boil off at the same rate. This azeotropic balance can be shifted back toward the alcohol using vacuum, but alcohol at that concentration is highly hygroscopic and is more interested in grabbing more water, than giving up what it has, so desiccating agents are still required for the last bits.

Sometimes those drying agents are things like benzene, leaving residuals at a ppm level.
 

650baquet

Active Member
so u just cook it off for an hour at 115 f and before that put it in the freezer for an hour, 1 tbls per g?
The winterizing(freezing) process takes 24-48 hours with including an agitation of the solution mid way. Good rule of thumb is add enough Everclear to equal 10 times the displacement of the oil...i just make sure i add enough Everclear so that the solution is pretty dang fluid and not thick, you want it to filter well. So after the freezing period you filter through a couple coffee filters or i use my old bubble bag screens, 25micron. Then that's the shit you evaporate/scrape/vacuum if you can/smoke or vape w/e you prefer.
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
so u just cook it off for an hour at 115 f and before that put it in the freezer for an hour, 1 tbls per g?
As this is a BHO thread, I am infering that we are talking about an alcohol solution with BHO dissolved in it, not a QWET or QWISO. That being the case, it goes in the freezer for about 48 hours and is filtered, before evaporating away any alcohol.

I use about a 10:1 oil alcohol mixture.

When evaporating away the alcohol, you can boil it off above about 173F at sea level, and your mixture won't exceed 173F until the alcohol is mostly gone. At that point, the temperature will rise to the next highest boiling point, which is water at 212F, so we set the oil container in a 250F oil bath until the solvent and water bubbles are gone, and only fizzy C02 bubbles remain.

You can also just set it out covered and let it evaporate naturally, or blow over it with a fan until it and the water it picks up from the air, are all gone. At that point you would need to heat it up to about 115F for the surface to be soft enough for the remaining solvent to escape.

If you purge under a -29.5" Hg vacuum in thin films at 115F, the the solvents rapidly escape and you can retain more of the extracted oil in carboxylic acid form, because all heat used to drive off solvent, also decarboxylates some of the molecules.
 

650baquet

Active Member
The longer and hotter you heat it the more terpenes you're going to lose. Especially the lighter sweeter fruitier flavors. The only reason you can smell weed at room temp is because terpenes are being released...somebody correct me if i'm wrong. I remember seeing a list of terpenes and their differing boiling points. The less heat you need to add to the process the better flavor can be retained, but i feel you're safe to be around 120F for hours without too much loss in flavor, i've never heated past 140F but i couldn't tell if there was going to be a difference in taste because i had no control to compare against.
 

json/mtl

Member
i did a run and my temp was definitely over 140f and it tasted sorta funky, my 2nd run i controlled my temp at 115f and results were much better and it was not as dark as my 1st run
 

650baquet

Active Member
i did a run and my temp was definitely over 140f and it tasted sorta funky, my 2nd run i controlled my temp at 115f and results were much better and it was not as dark as my 1st run
pictures if you can please!
Sounds good man def keep the temp on the low side if possible.
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
The longer and hotter you heat it the more terpenes you're going to lose. Especially the lighter sweeter fruitier flavors. The only reason you can smell weed at room temp is because terpenes are being released...somebody correct me if i'm wrong. I remember seeing a list of terpenes and their differing boiling points. The less heat you need to add to the process the better flavor can be retained, but i feel you're safe to be around 120F for hours without too much loss in flavor, i've never heated past 140F but i couldn't tell if there was going to be a difference in taste because i had no control to compare against.
Tis true, the lighter monoterpene molecules exit the plant at room temperature, that is why they smell so pungent. Any heat just speeds up their exit, even before reaching their boiling points, because of their high vapor pressure. They are alcohols, ketones, ethers, aldehydes, esters, and carboxylic acids.


We get the most flavorful results thin film purging at -29.5" Hg vacuum and 115F heat for about an hour or so. Purging in thick films, takes more heat and time, so more terpenes are lost. All you have to do is smell the vacuum pump oil, to know where they went.
 
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