Second grow (auto) questions about autos 100% germination?

JellyJaguar

JellyJaguar

Well-Known Member
Hey guys I'm about to be starting my second and first real grow. All my plants are autos this time as apposed to random bag seeds like my first grow. What are the main differences between autos? From what I can understand so far 1. they don't go 12/12 but get full light all day 2. They grow faster 3.They are not happy with topping and prefer LST. I'm positive I'm missing a good bit of things so please let me know what else. I need help with a germination method since I normally just put them in between two plates with a damp paper towel. These seeds are a bit more expensive so I want to make sure I don't fuck them up. I have not had much luck with the glass method in the past but Maybe the temp was not right I'm not sure. So I guess I'm asking what are all the differences you can think of between autos and what do you guys prefer as your germination method. Should I drop the seeds right into the end pot? and should I put a moister dome over them or what.
 
JellyJaguar

JellyJaguar

Well-Known Member
My first grow I used Burpee self watering seed starting plugs, I'm not sure if those will be good for an auto since I will have to transport them into their own pot. Any advice would be great so I can get this thing going.
 
Desr

Desr

Well-Known Member
transplanting autos is a problem only if you suck at transplanting. if youre going for speed, no dont transplant..ive seen side by sides with very little to no difference..
..but if youre gonna lst them anyways why not.id use 5 gallon pots or bags. see how they respond to LST, start slowly with it.

and for germination.
soak a paper towel, ring out excess water, fold. put the seeds in the crease, in a sandwich bag half sealed..on a warm surface..
 
sworth

sworth

Well-Known Member
^^^What Desr said^^^
(Although it's seed straight in the pot for me...a matter of preference really :) )
 
sunny747

sunny747

Well-Known Member
Confirmed... Paper towel method.
LST works just fine at about week 3.

They have a bit of a different growing schedule. They seem to start off slow then take off in week 4. I normally start mine in the main pot. 3-5 gallons.

There's not much else to it. In ten weeks you'll be harvesting nice bud, assuming you have decent light.

For comparison sake I'll give you a real life situation:

My friend and I both are growing NL/BB Autos from the same batch of seeds.
My setup: I have it in a 2 gallon pot. Fox Farms and GH Floranova. I just tossed it in the corner of my tent while my other photos were vegging. I had 5 plants under a 250w MH. (Not much light) My plant is about 10 inches tall at week 5 and is flowering nicely, but I can't see it yielding more than 1/2 oz.
My friend: 200w of CFL arranged around the plant in a 3 gallon. 18 hours light. The plant is set outside on Sunny days then brought back indoors. His plant comes up to his waste and looks awesome. He'll probably get 3oz off of it. Not bad for ten weeks..

Moral: Give her a big enough pot and lots of light.
2nd moral. It took me 7+ weeks to veg my photos. If they were autos I'd be looking forward to harvest in a few weeks. Now I have 10 weeks of wait time instead.
 
JellyJaguar

JellyJaguar

Well-Known Member
Desr said:
transplanting autos is a problem only if you suck at transplanting. if youre going for speed, no dont transplant..ive seen side by sides with very little to no difference..
..but if youre gonna lst them anyways why not.id use 5 gallon pots or bags. see how they respond to LST, start slowly with it.

and for germination.
soak a paper towel, ring out excess water, fold. put the seeds in the crease, in a sandwich bag half sealed..on a warm surface..
Click to expand...
Thanks man don't they need to be in dark as well?
 
JellyJaguar

JellyJaguar

Well-Known Member
sunny747 said:
Confirmed... Paper towel method.
LST works just fine at about week 3.

They have a bit of a different growing schedule. They seem to start off slow then take off in week 4. I normally start mine in the main pot. 3-5 gallons.

There's not much else to it. In ten weeks you'll be harvesting nice bud, assuming you have decent light.

For comparison sake I'll give you a real life situation:

My friend and I both are growing NL/BB Autos from the same batch of seeds.
My setup: I have it in a 2 gallon pot. Fox Farms and GH Floranova. I just tossed it in the corner of my tent while my other photos were vegging. I had 5 plants under a 250w MH. (Not much light) My plant is about 10 inches tall at week 5 and is flowering nicely, but I can't see it yielding more than 1/2 oz.
My friend: 200w of CFL arranged around the plant in a 3 gallon. 18 hours light. The plant is set outside on Sunny days then brought back indoors. His plant comes up to his waste and looks awesome. He'll probably get 3oz off of it. Not bad for ten weeks..

Moral: Give her a big enough pot and lots of light.
2nd moral. It took me 7+ weeks to veg my photos. If they were autos I'd be looking forward to harvest in a few weeks. Now I have 10 weeks of wait time instead.
Click to expand...
I have an xml 650 LED so its really high end, I was impressed with what they did on my last grow given my little experience so in a 4/4 tent its overkill. Is 18 hours better than 24? I'm leaning towards going right into the final pot since I worry about accidentally cutting the roots when I cut the paper off off the root plug. They will get as much light as they need I just want to make sure I don't stunt them.
 
JellyJaguar

JellyJaguar

Well-Known Member
Desr said:
transplanting autos is a problem only if you suck at transplanting. if youre going for speed, no dont transplant..ive seen side by sides with very little to no difference..
..but if youre gonna lst them anyways why not.id use 5 gallon pots or bags. see how they respond to LST, start slowly with it.

and for germination.
soak a paper towel, ring out excess water, fold. put the seeds in the crease, in a sandwich bag half sealed..on a warm surface..
Click to expand...
I guess I didn't want t accidentally cut the roots off the sides when I have to slide scissors down the plug to cut off the paper. Tbh man I don't trust my skills in stransplanting, I think I have a bit of work to do on it.
 
JellyJaguar

JellyJaguar

Well-Known Member
Since I have you guys here this is one of my current plants from my first grow can I start the final flushing week or do I need to wait a bit longer? I need my tent is why I'm asking since this other plant is on 12/12IMG_20150712_122702_682.jpg
 
sworth

sworth

Well-Known Member
Yeah, get your seeds going...there's always room for the little ones, and a few weeks head start make a big difference.
As to how much longer...hard to say. Get yourself a 40x loupe and check the trichomes, it's the best way imo :)
 
Desr

Desr

Well-Known Member
yeah i would go by trichomes..also alot of of people prefer germination to seed straight in the pot..solely for the fact you will know 100% if the seeds viable.
transplanting is very much a learned and tuned skill..if you use solo cups you can just cut straight down the sides..i would do it 4 times in a cross..and then kinda peel it like a banana..another thing is alot of people say to transplant with dry soil and stuff..i always wet the soil down and even pack it down lightly a lil bit..holds everything together better i feel..turn the cup upside down with the stem base between your fingers like a cigarette..pre dig the hole before all this..enough to bring it up to the cotyledons

see: http://rollitup.org/t/replant-those-long-stretchy-stems-its-easy.429767/
 
Last edited:
sunny747

sunny747

Well-Known Member
Another reason for germinating in final pot with autos is that once the tap root hits bottom of container it starts to flower.. This is just what I read. Who knows.

That plant is not likely finished. White/straight pistils means that it's not done. Orange, curly pistils means that it's done. Checking trichomes is really the only way to know for sure. The best $25 you can spend is for a SUPER EYES digital scope on Amazon. You will KNOW when your plant is finished.

Closeup trichomes with super eyes. Not finished. No ambers.
20150307154832.jpg
 
JellyJaguar

JellyJaguar

Well-Known Member
sunny747 said:
Another reason for germinating in final pot with autos is that once the tap root hits bottom of container it starts to flower.. This is just what I read. Who knows.

That plant is not likely finished. White/straight pistils means that it's not done. Orange, curly pistils means that it's done. Checking trichomes is really the only way to know for sure. The best $25 you can spend is for a SUPER EYES digital scope on Amazon. You will KNOW when your plant is finished.

Closeup trichomes with super eyes. Not finished. No ambers.
View attachment 3459343
Click to expand...
wow thanks man and yeah been waiting for the tricomes to turn amber but I need like a jewelers loop.
 
JellyJaguar

JellyJaguar

Well-Known Member
I'm doing about 10 plants for my next grow so I can make lotions and canabutter and everything else under the sun. My aunt has chronic shoulder pain so I figured I would make her some chronic balm to make it better :blsmoke: But yeah I will get the link for my new grow tonight Because I'm going all out on this next one.
 
JellyJaguar

JellyJaguar

Well-Known Member
sunny747 said:
Another reason for germinating in final pot with autos is that once the tap root hits bottom of container it starts to flower.. This is just what I read. Who knows.

That plant is not likely finished. White/straight pistils means that it's not done. Orange, curly pistils means that it's done. Checking trichomes is really the only way to know for sure. The best $25 you can spend is for a SUPER EYES digital scope on Amazon. You will KNOW when your plant is finished.

Closeup trichomes with super eyes. Not finished. No ambers.
View attachment 3459343
Click to expand...
by the way is that my plant really close up or just a random photo?
 
JellyJaguar

JellyJaguar

Well-Known Member
Desr said:
yeah i would go by trichomes..also alot of of people prefer germination to seed straight in the pot..solely for the fact you will know 100% if the seeds viable.
transplanting is very much a learned and tuned skill..if you use solo cups you can just cut straight down the sides..i would do it 4 times in a cross..and then kinda peel it like a banana..another thing is alot of people say to transplant with dry soil and stuff..i always wet the soil down and even pack it down lightly a lil bit..holds everything together better i feel..turn the cup upside down with the stem base between your fingers like a cigarette..pre dig the hole before all this..enough to bring it up to the cotyledons

see: http://rollitup.org/t/replant-those-long-stretchy-stems-its-easy.429767/
Click to expand...
wow thanks man your input is always appreciated :mrgreen: I can transplant ok I just know with autos they are a bit more sensitive since you don't have as much time to fix many problems. I think I will take you guys advice and just go right into the final container.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top