Seeds frm Feminized Seed Plants

Ifrit

Active Member
How does one go about getting seeds from Feminized seeded plants? I'm looking at Barney's Pineapple Chunk and Vanilla Kush. Barney's doesn't see, to sell regular seeds. So how would one go about getting seeds from these 2 famous hybrids? The only way I see is via cloning, which is fine, but I would like to break down the setup and restart later at some point.

Thoughts?
 

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
Luckily/unluckily cannabis is a dual edged sword so you have the choice of sexual and asexual reproduction. So you can self them or mate them to a male of your choice.
 

brotherjericho

Well-Known Member
Fem seeds is all you have unless you want to cross the originals yourself from regulars. For instance, you'd cross Kashmir Hash Plant with Hindu Kush to get Vanilla Kush. Good luck finding the first one ;p.
 
Buying a couple extra beans will get you there later... But as for getting seeds from a Femed plant, you would have to induce stress so it would Hermy. But, then I would imagine that the Hermy part of the plant would be possible to be more dominant in the seeds...
 

Adjorr

Well-Known Member
Buying a couple extra beans will get you there later... But as for getting seeds from a Femed plant, you would have to induce stress so it would Hermy. But, then I would imagine that the Hermy part of the plant would be possible to be more dominant in the seeds...
All plants carry the gene to hermie in an attempt to polinate themselves, its a survival mechanism. its not a true hermie though, as a real hermie produces male and female flowers regardless of wheter it was stressed or not, its in its genes. breeding seeds from a true hermie would cause the trait to be more dominate in future generations (and wont produce fem seeds since hermies have a male chromosone). but femals that are forced to hermie dont carry a male gene or any more hermie genes then it did before.
thinking forcing a flower to hermie will cause hermie genes to be more dominate is like thinking cutting off your arm will give u 1 armed babies
 
All plants carry the gene to hermie in an attempt to polinate themselves, its a survival mechanism. its not a true hermie though, as a real hermie produces male and female flowers regardless of wheter it was stressed or not, its in its genes. breeding seeds from a true hermie would cause the trait to be more dominate in future generations (and wont produce fem seeds since hermies have a male chromosone). but femals that are forced to hermie dont carry a male gene or any more hermie genes then it did before.
thinking forcing a flower to hermie will cause hermie genes to be more dominate is like thinking cutting off your arm will give u 1 armed babies
Thanks for the clarification Adjorr!
 

brotherjericho

Well-Known Member
All plants carry the gene to hermie in an attempt to polinate themselves, its a survival mechanism. its not a true hermie though, as a real hermie produces male and female flowers regardless of wheter it was stressed or not, its in its genes. breeding seeds from a true hermie would cause the trait to be more dominate in future generations (and wont produce fem seeds since hermies have a male chromosone). but femals that are forced to hermie dont carry a male gene or any more hermie genes then it did before.
thinking forcing a flower to hermie will cause hermie genes to be more dominate is like thinking cutting off your arm will give u 1 armed babies
This may be true of forcing a hermie on a regular, but what about a feminized? After all, that is how they got the fem seeds in the first place...
 

Adjorr

Well-Known Member
forcing the plant to hermie does not change its genetics, the genetics it passes on are the same wheter it was forced to hermie or polinated normaly. Its like if a woamn had a sex change operation, physicaly they look different, but if you took a dna sample and cloned them they would still be a woman. and any children somehow parented by them would not have a gene to make them grow penis's and vaginas at the same time
 

joe blow greenthumb

Well-Known Member
If bred properly then a feminized seed doesn't come from stressing. Colloidal silver is used. But just so you know, I have seeds from a feminized plant that I stressed after harvest. I had 2 growing until 2 days ago. During daily inspection I found one had the beginning stages of the sac. I did nothing to it during veg. The other was topped in veg and is doing great without the herm issue.
This may be true of forcing a hermie on a regular, but what about a feminized? After all, that is how they got the fem seeds in the first place...
 

brotherjericho

Well-Known Member
In any case, from what I understand (very little), self-pollinating will likely result in a higher likelihood of future hermies. So if you force it, don't pollinate the same plant or clones from said plant.
 
I would take a clone during veg, and take the clone on through with the other plant. Then in flower, take the clone in and out of the correct lighting like brewing up mentioned. This should produce a hermie right?

Then take the hermie's pollen and spread on the non-hermie.
 

Chartreuse Spruce

Active Member
hermie a plant if you want seeds, 90% of the seeds will be fem
I've been thinking a lot about all of this. But from what I have read in the past year, unless I got things backwards, these seeds will be weak won't they? I'm hoping you will say no. I had an amazing white widow my first growing year and cloned her and grew her for 8 months until the weather was good enough to put her outside the following. She almost died. She was so suprising. But that first year, she gave me like 3 seeds. I didn't stress her. Her harvest was perfect. She just gave those seeds. And no ball sacks so no hermie. So anyway, last year was her second year of life. The plants did not look as good because they were in a container versus the original being in the ground, but she was just as powerful, sticky , and sparkly. That second year plant also gave a few seeds. I have them now in their second week of life. There are three. I love them. One is a runt, so far. This should be a grow journal shouldn't it? Anyway...I am going to do the best of the best for them and see what they do. Exciting. I don't want to let this go so I hope it is strong. I have an Exodus that I am desperately trying to hold on for dear life to. Oh ya, and they all just got their two week old ass pummeled by hail that I didn't know was coming. shhiiiiiaaat! :bigjoint:
 

Jus Naturale

Active Member
thinking forcing a flower to hermie will cause hermie genes to be more dominate is like thinking cutting off your arm will give u 1 armed babies
But my wife said our kids are half black because she had tanned the week she got pregnant...

Great analogy! Cheers!
 

brewing up

Well-Known Member

  • [h=2]
    thanks op...[/h]

    Originally Posted by brewing up
    hermie a plant if you want seeds, 90% of the seeds will be fem



    I've been thinking a lot about all of this. But from what I have read in the past year, unless I got things backwards, these seeds will be weak won't they? I'm hoping you will say no. I had an amazing white widow my first growing year and cloned her and grew her for 8 months until the weather was good enough to put her outside the following. She almost died. She was so suprising. But that first year, she gave me like 3 seeds. I didn't stress her. Her harvest was perfect. She just gave those seeds. And no ball sacks so no hermie. So anyway, last year was her second year of life. The plants did not look as good because they were in a container versus the original being in the ground, but she was just as powerful, sticky , and sparkly. That second year plant also gave a few seeds. I have them now in their second week of life. There are three. I love them. One is a runt, so far. This should be a grow journal shouldn't it? Anyway...I am going to do the best of the best for them and see what they do. Exciting. I don't want to let this go so I hope it is strong. I have an Exodus that I am desperately trying to hold on for dear life to. Oh ya, and they all just got their two week old ass pummeled by hail that I didn't know was coming. shhiiiiiaaat!




there wont be no difference n potency but some may be hermie also as it can pass on the hermie genes i read, i have yet to find a hermie from my hermie seeds though, they have all been fem and fine for me, i suppose it could be genetics also but like i said i hermied mine and every one has been fem so far
 

Kite High

Well-Known Member
How does one go about getting seeds from Feminized seeded plants? I'm looking at Barney's Pineapple Chunk and Vanilla Kush. Barney's doesn't see, to sell regular seeds. So how would one go about getting seeds from these 2 famous hybrids? The only way I see is via cloning, which is fine, but I would like to break down the setup and restart later at some point.

Thoughts?

ATTENTION!!! ALWAYS ORDER SEPARATELY FROM TWO DIFFERENT SOURCES!!! YOU HAVE BEEN NOTIFIED

The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.

This process can be used to:
A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have
B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have
C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use
D: accelerate the "interview" phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers
E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions
F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones

At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them.

It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Here is a link to Robert Clarke's "Marijuana Botany", which is a very good reference.

http://planetganja.net/Ebooks/Marijuana Botany.pdf

It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.

Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there... the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven's Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide.

Preparation of STS:
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

Part A: 0.5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.

Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.

Application:
The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.

Effects:
Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.

When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.

A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.

Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.

This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very carefulollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.

Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.

Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.

About the chemicals:
Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

.preparation of silver thiosulfate (sts) solution

silver thiosulfate (sts) is commonly used to block the action of ethylene in plant cell cultures. Ethylene is a hormone that is present in the gaseous state. Ethylene increases during senescence and ripening, and has been shown to increase in plant cell cultures due to wounding or the presence of auxins. Silver nitrate may be used alone to block the action of ethylene but it is not transported as well as sts thus is seldom used alone.

Prepare a 0.1 m sodium thiosulfate (sts) stock solution by dissolving 1.58 g of sodium thiosulfate (product no. S 620) into 100 ml of water. Prepare a 0.1 m silver nitrate stock solution by dissolving 1.7 g of silver nitrate (product no. S 169) into 100 ml of water. Store the stock solution in the dark until needed to prepare the sts.

The sts solution is prepared with a molar ratio between silver and thiosulfate of 1:4, respectively. Nearly all of the silver present in the solution is in the form of [ag (s2o3)2]3-, the active complex for ethylene effect inhibition.
Prepare a 0.02 m sts by slowly pouring 20 ml of 0.1 m silver nitrate stock solution into 80 ml of 0.1 m sodium thiosulfate stock solution. The sts can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a month. However, preparation of the sts just prior to use is recommended.

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________





A SIMPLE SAFE AND INEXPENSIVE FEMMING METHOD

LINKS TO THE CHEMICALS:

sodium thiosulfate

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/124109-REG/Photographers_Formulary_10_1370_1LB_Sodium_Thiosulfate_Anhydrous.html

Silver Nitrate

http://secure.sciencecompany.com/Silver-Nitrate-10g-P6503.aspx


ATTENTION!!! ALWAYS ORDER SEPARATELY FROM TWO DIFFERENT SOURCES!!! YOU HAVE BEEN NOTIFIED

 
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