side by side aerocloner vs bubble cloner......

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
My first time using bubble cloner. Guy i know does his in plain cups of water. Takes a while but it works. I am planning on running my own side by side experiments eventually. I want to see if this stuff really is worth the money or if theyre just selling me stuff i dont need.
I started cloning like him, clear glass jar on a window sill with an air line in it, no stone, just blub,blub,blub. Threw a handful in, couple weeks later there were roots. That was my spring routine for a couple years. It's really not difficult, cleanliness is #1 when cutting/handling them and use really weak ec's.
 

bdt1981

Well-Known Member
I'm petty sure clones uptake nutes if they are in the water. Kinda like how they color carnations when they don't have roots, or foliar feeding, it's still taking up fluid and anything in it. I'm not sure if PHing matters in this case or not though, it does in foliar feeding, so I'm assuming it does here also.
dont plants uptake nutrient thru roots? isnt that where the it starts? they may uptake some water or color could maybe leach into the petals of a flower... i dont really know to busy to go investigate it i know that if there is any benifit to phing clone water its not going to have enough impact on final product where i can justify the the time and materials used are efficient...

that may have came out wrong, im blazed atm...
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
dont plants uptake nutrient thru roots? isnt that where the it starts? they may uptake some water or color could maybe leach into the petals of a flower... i dont really know to busy to go investigate it i know that if there is any benifit to phing clone water its not going to have enough impact on final product where i can justify the the time and materials used are efficient...

that may have came out wrong, im blazed atm...
Both non rooted clones and rooted plants uptake nutrients the same way. Transpiration through the leaves drops internal plant pressure, essentially creating a vacuum inside the plant, which in turn causes it to uptake fluids, either through the roots or the cut end of a clone. The roots are just better able to do it than a cut stem.
I know we PH nutrients to make them more available in the medium, but now I'm wondering how much effect of has on a clone, which is essentially being forced to uptake nutrients. PHing clone water could still be beneficial, if it makes it easier for them to use the avaliable nutes once they are absorbed. I don't know how plants regulate PH internally.
 

bdt1981

Well-Known Member
Maybe ill try a side by side. Naaa none of these guys
Both non rooted clones and rooted plants uptake nutrients the same way. Transpiration through the leaves drops internal plant pressure, essentially creating a vacuum inside the plant, which in turn causes it to uptake fluids, either through the roots or the cut end of a clone. The roots are just better able to do it than a cut stem.
I know we PH nutrients to make them more available in the medium, but now I'm wondering how much effect of has on a clone, which is essentially being forced to uptake nutrients. PHing clone water could still be beneficial, if it makes it easier for them to use the avaliable nutes once they are absorbed. I don't know how plants regulate PH internally.
Still not going to notice in the end. If u sdd nutes sure ph always but if no nutes no need.
 

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
Bubbles cloners are BOSS. Used to use a dome and tray with a heating pad..... terrible. Bubble cloner is 100 percent, just a matter of time. I built a big one in a 30 gal tote with about 27 sites, it was kick ass because the water volume made the water stay good a long time, I did like 2 months with no water change at 100%. Currently using a small 2 gallon pots about 20 sites, works great also but lass stable. I would still use the big one if I I had more room, but the little guy is pulling his weight and using less space.
I get close to 100% with a heat pad, dome, and rapid rooters. It's not a bad system; just takes a little practice.
 

SSampsy

Member
I get close to 100% with a heat pad, dome, and rapid rooters. It's not a bad system; just takes a little practice.
howlong do you usually take to root? would you mind explaining your process? its weird because some people foliar feed, some don't. some use a dome, some don't
 

SSampsy

Member
Ya 1 on 4 off os what i use but my timer was on my aeroflo.. i have since removed the timer and left the pumps on on my aero flo and have the timer on aero cloner... bubble is where its at. Less moving parts no timer needed.
any difference on the 24/7 vs timer for the aero flo?
 

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
howlong do you usually take to root? would you mind explaining your process? its weird because some people foliar feed, some don't. some use a dome, some don't
Roots usually start protruding after 1 week & they are ready for transplanting after about 12 days.
Process:
Start with clean stuff. Very important.
Plastic: Flat tray with plug tray inside suspending rooters. Large vented dome. (I'll take a pic & post later).
Millard double wide heat mat ON CONCRETE FLOOR. Putting the mat on insulating surfaces like wood can cause overheating.
Place cuttings in aloe water & soak rooters an hour or so.
Assemble everything & put a thin layer of water in the bottom of the tray. (Heat will turn it into humidity.)
Shake excess water from rooters before using. Don't squeeze.
Close dome vents for the first week.
That's about it!
 

SSampsy

Member
Roots usually start protruding after 1 week & they are ready for transplanting after about 12 days.
Process:
Start with clean stuff. Very important.
Plastic: Flat tray with plug tray inside suspending rooters. Large vented dome. (I'll take a pic & post later).
Millard double wide heat mat ON CONCRETE FLOOR. Putting the mat on insulating surfaces like wood can cause overheating.
Place cuttings in aloe water & soak rooters an hour or so.
Assemble everything & put a thin layer of water in the bottom of the tray. (Heat will turn it into humidity.)
Shake excess water from rooters before using. Don't squeeze.
Close dome vents for the first week.
That's about it!
Thanks man. so that thin layer of water isn't supposed to touch the rooter, right? no foliar feeding? and i assume you don't need to rewet the plug after the initial soaking because it won't dry out because the humidity caused by the thin layer of water in the tray, right?
 

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
Thanks man. so that thin layer of water isn't supposed to touch the rooter, right? no foliar feeding? and i assume you don't need to rewet the plug after the initial soaking because it won't dry out because the humidity caused by the thin layer of water in the tray, right?
Yep, no water touching the plugs. Rapid rooters are basically sponges made of peat and should NEVER be dripping wet.
Forgot to mention that I lightly mist them with superthrive every other day for the first week only. Some folks say it's snake oil but I've seen my plants respond. They dig it!
You will eventually need to wet the plugs again. Timing varies. It doesn't hurt to pull them out briefly to check. I just use a spray bottle with a narrow stream to add moisture. If you worry about mold, add a little hygrozyme to the spray. Mold usually starts where leaves overlap, so packing them closely is not recommended.
WP_20160408_004.jpg
 

SSampsy

Member
Yep, no water touching the plugs. Rapid rooters are basically sponges made of peat and should NEVER be dripping wet.
Forgot to mention that I lightly mist them with superthrive every other day for the first week only. Some folks say it's snake oil but I've seen my plants respond. They dig it!
You will eventually need to wet the plugs again. Timing varies. It doesn't hurt to pull them out briefly to check. I just use a spray bottle with a narrow stream to add moisture. If you worry about mold, add a little hygrozyme to the spray. Mold usually starts where leaves overlap, so packing them closely is not recommended.
View attachment 3652680
Thanks dude, another guy told me he basically does the same as you but he doesn't spray the leaves and he says to make sure the plugs don't feel cold to the touch and instead of re wetting the plug how you do it he re wets the plugs buy putting a layer of water like 1/3 way up the plug and let it wick but I'm afraid the plug would be too wet from doing that and I'm also afraid of uneven watering if I'm using a spray bottle, you just spray the top of the plug a few times? do you think the whole keeping humidity above 90% the first few days is a myth as well? sorry for all the questions man lol
 

bdt1981

Well-Known Member
howlong do you usually take to root? would you mind explaining your process? its weird because some people foliar feed, some don't. some use a dome, some don't
I have saw roots in 3 days on aero cloner. Seriously one clone out of 48 and I haven't saw it again that fast. 5 to 7 on bubbles and I leave on cloner for 2 weeks. I find a 5 or so inch branch cut with lil scissors and scrape the last inch of the skin put on the bubbles and check in 5...
Cloning is different cut to cut. That is why I took nearly 80 to pick 36 from. Bigger cuts are better. I just started taking big cuts
 

bdt1981

Well-Known Member
Roots usually start protruding after 1 week & they are ready for transplanting after about 12 days.
Process:
Start with clean stuff. Very important.
Plastic: Flat tray with plug tray inside suspending rooters. Large vented dome. (I'll take a pic & post later).
Millard double wide heat mat ON CONCRETE FLOOR. Putting the mat on insulating surfaces like wood can cause overheating.
Place cuttings in aloe water & soak rooters an hour or so.
Assemble everything & put a thin layer of water in the bottom of the tray. (Heat will turn it into humidity.)
Shake excess water from rooters before using. Don't squeeze.
Close dome vents for the first week.
That's about it!
Really the start with clean stuff is over rated. Of course clean as in not covered in dirt but I wouldnt go overboard.
 

bdt1981

Well-Known Member
Thanks dude, another guy told me he basically does the same as you but he doesn't spray the leaves and he says to make sure the plugs don't feel cold to the touch and instead of re wetting the plug how you do it he re wets the plugs buy putting a layer of water like 1/3 way up the plug and let it wick but I'm afraid the plug would be too wet from doing that and I'm also afraid of uneven watering if I'm using a spray bottle, you just spray the top of the plug a few times? do you think the whole keeping humidity above 90% the first few days is a myth as well? sorry for all the questions man lol
Keep humidity dripping off the walls of dome. I am in hydro so I don't care much for any plugs. Besides they cost a lot
 

SSampsy

Member
Keep humidity dripping off the walls of dome. I am in hydro so I don't care much for any plugs. Besides they cost a lot
you use a dome in the bubble cloner? i want to use one a bubble cloner but the roots won't really be shaped right for what I'm trying to do, i kind of need them to be in a plug. you can't use a plug in a bubble cloner in any way right?
 

bdt1981

Well-Known Member
you use a dome in the bubble cloner? i want to use one a bubble cloner but the roots won't really be shaped right for what I'm trying to do, i kind of need them to be in a plug. you can't use a plug in a bubble cloner in any way right?
no you just hang the stem in the bubbles. they get strong quick, i have used a type of dome one time and it didnt go any faster
 

bdt1981

Well-Known Member

see it for what it is ...cambium engineering, or teasing out the rootlets from under the bark ..easy and natural like

I haven't done it for months but the gear is ready, latley when needing a clone I go 'air layer' its quicker and even more fun

...use kitchen foil, done in 7 days ...good luck

to my blog: on my bubble cloner

https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/02-day-12-bottom-jpg.3264113/
so do you have the stem in the water or just above it using the spray from popping bubbles?
 
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