Soil mix for flowering while using tea??

2times

Member
I've looked around through out the forum and other websites. And I can't seem to find my answer.
I have a nice fine lady that is ready to go into flowering.
The soil that she's in now is a no till mix from last year specifically for vegetation.

Completely organic grow. I mainly use compost teas with added ammendments.

My question is. What is a good soil mix for flowering? In which I can use tea's to feed the soil and plant.
I was thinking it would be along the lines of my soil-less mix. 1/3 of perlite, peat, and vermiculite.
Let me know what you guys think.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
I've looked around through out the forum and other websites. And I can't seem to find my answer.
I have a nice fine lady that is ready to go into flowering.
The soil that she's in now is a no till mix from last year specifically for vegetation.

Completely organic grow. I mainly use compost teas with added ammendments.

My question is. What is a good soil mix for flowering? In which I can use tea's to feed the soil and plant.
I was thinking it would be along the lines of my soil-less mix. 1/3 of perlite, peat, and vermiculite.
Let me know what you guys think.
Depends solely on your goals, you are looking at essentially going hydroponic with organic nutrients, so in that regard i'd use a simple, relatively inert mix, like coco and aeration.
BUT compost teas and the like are geared way more towards a living soil, so if that's your goal, i'd go with a peat, compost, EWC and aeration mix.
Also, and not to start any arguing, you really don't need any different nutrients for flowering as you do for veging.
For me, I amend the bejesus out of the compost pile, and use that as 1/3 of my mix, add aeration, leftover soil, and it's a water only, all the way through till the end. Provided you give the ladies room.
For example, it's virtually impossible to have a one gallon water only mix, with an established plant, because the plant is going to suck dry all the stuff in the container.
Also your mix wouldn't really be a soil-less mix with peat and such in it. Considering it's essentially compost.
If I may offer some suggestion, and that's if you really want to try organics, i'd go with a compost and a wormbin as your first moves.
 

2times

Member
Thanks I just really need confirmation that I could use basic mix for my soil.
I have a compost bin and a worm bin going on 2 years now. Every plant ganja and not has loved it.
My method is a living soil.
And I will use your advice of 1/3 compost peat and ewc.
Thanks.
So I'm making a fungal ewc batch so I can make a fungal tea for her.
Should I use the left over ewc underneath the layer of fungi for my soil mix?
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Thanks I just really need confirmation that I could use basic mix for my soil.
I have a compost bin and a worm bin going on 2 years now. Every plant ganja and not has loved it.
My method is a living soil.
And I will use your advice of 1/3 compost peat and ewc.
Thanks.
So I'm making a fungal ewc batch so I can make a fungal tea for her.
Should I use the left over ewc underneath the layer of fungi for my soil mix?
if you have a good compost, i'd use that with the EWC, I like a 1/1 ratio of them.
Is your compost a leaf based? or Grassclippings?
I really, really, like just amending the compost pile like crazy, with slow release amendments, like fish bone meal, beard clippings/doghair, fish meal, alfalfa, kelp, neem, shrimp and crab meals, etc, etc.
then it's almost plug 'n play after that. It's like a miracle "cure-all" for plants, a lil compost as a topdress and it fixes almost anything.
I really wish I would have discovered this method years ago, saves so much time and effort, and the plants are a beautiful green throughout..
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
imo peet is bad in organic soils it composts quickly in organic soil and drops the ph

by base mix is
1 part soil
1 part earthworm castings
1 part perlite

I do spikes, layers and compost teas also
I have done both the coco and peat, and granted you are 100% correct about it getting acidic over time (which is why we use crab meal, oyster flour, oyster shells, biochar, and the like for their ability to counter a lowering PH, but the peat is already composted, in fact if I recall correctly peat is like hundreds of years old.. but I digress.
the CEC of peat is way better than coco, there are a couple growers on this site that have experienced a smaller yield when using coco as their base,
I know I did, and it was on a dialed in grow too, with strains that I had run many, many times.
I have used peat for decades, and even re-used it doesn't go too acidic, assuming you have assembled the soil correctly, meaning using the ingredients I listed above.
ideally (and in the slow process) you could sub out the peat and coco for pure leaf mold, best thing out there man, only takes like 18months to make... and a billion leaves
 

hells canyon genetics

Well-Known Member
I do compost several in my soil to buffer my ph I recycle my soil ive been using the same soil for years just keep composting the old roots and additives then do another run

ideally (and in the slow process) you could sub out the peat and coco for pure leaf mold, best thing out there man, only takes like 18months to make... and a billion leaves

im interested in this can you explain more
 

2times

Member
My compost is leaf, grass clippings, vegetable scraps, hair.
I use my compost for all diff vegetables and other flowers so I don't amend all different meals into it. I have a recycled soil bin from previous grows that has the meals. Which my girls this year loved. Not a single problem arose.
Yea I counter act the acidic-ness in the peat with my own clean egg shells. And it's worked. Has to be in the soil previous to a grow.
But yea.
I think il do the soil mix as part compost, part ewc and part perlite.
I made up my mind.
Thanks guys.
I try to do the leaf mulch but it won't work near me. Lots of pine needles around.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
I do compost several in my soil to buffer my ph I recycle my soil ive been using the same soil for years just keep composting the old roots and additives then do another run

ideally (and in the slow process) you could sub out the peat and coco for pure leaf mold, best thing out there man, only takes like 18months to make... and a billion leaves

im interested in this can you explain more
sure, all you do is gather a BUNCH of leaves, and let them compost on their own, it takes a LONG time, and is different than a mixed compost.
After about 18 months its pure humus, and is the best shit ever, i'm in the process of it myself, only I kinda had a problem with my reg compost pile. the redwood tree grew an ASSTON of roots up and into my pile, and literally robbed me of my amended compost! :wall:
who would have thought that a redwood tree would like a rich mist compost pile laden with fishbone meal, fish meal, alfalfa meal, etc etc etc
Yea.. I;m a dumbass.
but anyways, yes, leaf mold is simple, you just keep it moist and aerated, and trun it like you would a compost pile, and in about 16 months or so, it's broken down, it takes much longer because its not a thermophilic compost, it stays cool and essentially just sorta rots and composts into pure humus, you can re-use it forever and ever, and it's ph neutral, and has an awesome CEC
Just takes TIME, and a LOT of leaves. like remember that whatever you gather ISNT enough... it melts to like a tenth of its size or more.
I had an enormous compost pile like 4 feet high, and it melted to like 18 inches high, or less.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Theres no shortage of leafs where im at i could probably fill a nfl stadium with all of the oak,maple,walnut and fruit trees in my neighborhood im definitely going to look into it
go on that brother, you won't ever go back to peat or coco.
Plus there is some other mystical, magical property that humus has, it greens up the plants like a fat shot of nitrogen.
I'm doing both an amended compost pile for nutrients, as well as a leaf mold.
There is a type of leaf that takes like ten times longer than the rest, I can't remember which tree its from.
the tree has acorns if that helps. they are roundish and hard
 

Pattahabi

Well-Known Member
if you have a good compost, i'd use that with the EWC, I like a 1/1 ratio of them.
Is your compost a leaf based? or Grassclippings?
I really, really, like just amending the compost pile like crazy, with slow release amendments, like fish bone meal, beard clippings/doghair, fish meal, alfalfa, kelp, neem, shrimp and crab meals, etc, etc.
then it's almost plug 'n play after that. It's like a miracle "cure-all" for plants, a lil compost as a topdress and it fixes almost anything.

I really wish I would have discovered this method years ago, saves so much time and effort, and the plants are a beautiful green throughout..
This is spot on with my experiences. I might add compost pile/worm bin. I'm pretty sure Coot said adding your amendments during the curing period of thermocompost is ideal. At any rate, mixing the amendments with a high microbial medium and letting it sit is going to provide some serious results.
:weed:
Peace,

P-
 
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