LISTEN TO Cockroach!!!!!! He is a genius. Do not flush your plants!!! That is a myth too! OMG, clearex probably kills important bacteria and nutrients in your soil man! This IS such a fucked deal for new growers. All this evil misinformation about growing a damn weed!
If the PH of his soil is off the plant wont uptake nutrients properly therefore looking like a nute def. NO SOIL DOES NOT HAVE A GREAT BUFFERING ABILITY unless it amended correctly, which his does not even have perlite if you try to pay closer attention so he obviously does not have quality soil. So if the PH in the soil is off it can cause nute lock
Also since i mentioned he is not using perlite his soil can be becoming compacted
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You guys are falling for the mask, not the actual problem... Please learn from this....
Your calling my info disinformation? Are you being serious? lmao I'm the only one who has actually provided proof instead of just saying a comment and acting like i know what im talking about like the others do in here. My information is facts, not disimformation, the majority of the others are doing that. But if the dude wants his plants to live he should try listening to me....
Cool bud i just skimmed through most of the input, but yeah upcanning asap is the best thing for him to do for sure.. He also needs to learn about perlite
I agree to a point, he must learn "the balance" which people usually dont learn on their first grow. I always have info to give heres a little tid bit
Registered: 09/13/02
Posts: 7671
Loc: MinnesotaSoil Moisture in cannabis cultivation grown in contained medium.
Since the indoor cultivation of cannabis is primarily aimed at producing the heaviest flower production in the least amount of time, the ideal soil moisture is one that will encourage the heaviest root production as soon as possible with the least amount of stress.
When a seedling is transplanted into a new larger container, the root system is isolated within the confines of it's previous container, and suspended in a much larger volume.
A good wet dry cycle consists of allowing the plant to take up all readily availible water in the immediate vicinity of the root system, then allowing the plant to extend it's roots further into the medium in order to reach more moisture. So avoiding the urge to give it more water sooner is very important. Since the medium will wick moisture from the outer areas to the root zone as the moisture levels drop there, the roots are never at risk of dehydration until the container is remarkably low in moisture.
Some might think that the ideal situation in this case would be to give the plant a little water, more often, but this will result in waste toxins from the plant building up in the root zone, and if fertilizers are used regularly, unused fertilizer and salts will build up, locking out nutrient uptake and throwing the pH in the root zone off.
Always give the plant sufficient water to allow some to run through the medium and root system and out of the bottom of the pot. Consider this hygiene.
Keeping the soil too wet will reduce the availibility of oxygen to the roots, causing them to feel like shit and die.
Plants suffering from overwatering (watering too often and keeping the medium saturated) will cause the plant to lose vigor and appear somewhat like the first stages of dehydration, often triggering the smothering instinct in growers and resulting in even more water, like turning fire hose on a drowning man.
Allowing the soil to become too dry will cause the plant to dehydrate, the leaves will wilt due to the loss of moisture, reducing transpiration(1), causing stress that leads to hermaphroditism, as well as reducing the final yield due to the tissue damage.
The surface of the medium evaporates moisture quickly so the surface will appear to be drying out while the bulk of the medium still has a great deal of water availible.
Until you are comfortable with your plants and their needs. A good practice is to keep a pot of the same type that your plants are in, filled with the same medium that your plants are in. Use this to judge the weight of the containers that the plants are in.
When watering you should always add the water slowly so that it seeps through the soil rather then running through it rapidly, creating courses where the bulk of the water travels.
Dry soil has a tendency to repel water at first contact and pockets of trapped air will create bubbles that prevent water from wetting getting to the medium until the free water has passed and the air can travel.
The roots in dryer soil will be freely exposed and vulnerable to nutrient burn. Nutrient enriched water should never be added to dry soil.
I always water in the morning (their morning rarely coincides with my morning...), soon after the lights have come on. This prevents the plants from sitting in saturated containers in the dark, when the least amount of transpiration is occuring.
When the plants are in three gallon containers. I give them each about one quart of clean water with no nutrients or additives, slowly over a period of a minute or two.
Then let them sit for at least ten minutes before adding either water or supplement enriched water.
I then add the liquid slowly, till at least a quart runs out of the bottom, then let them drain fully before retiring them to soak up some morning lumens.
While I disagree about reading Jorges' grow bible, I do agree with the MG nute thing, I haven't been growing as long as some, but up until recently I used MG soil, MG perlite, MG nutes and have had great results....I'm here to tell you, if you can't grow with MG you can't grow, it isn't the number 1 product for nothing....with that said, I have switched to subcools super soil, he has a thread in organics check it out....
The ones in the center are in subcools super soil and the same age as those around them that are much smaller...subcool is the way to go, all the way to flower...haha Sorry couldn't resist Gotta love those bud candys ! Nothing but P and K . and yet you get the question. Why are my leaves turing yellow? ha
Cool bud, upcanning for sure is the best solution at this point and time or as soon as he can (he better add some lime and perlite!!!). I always have info if you go to the Autoflower forums and goto my thread you will see a massive amount of info lol... I usually summarize and push all the info to the last page on fri/sat. Anyway heres a tid bit id like to share
Soil Moisture in cannabis cultivation grown in contained medium.
Since the indoor cultivation of cannabis is primarily aimed at producing the heaviest flower production in the least amount of time, the ideal soil moisture is one that will encourage the heaviest root production as soon as possible with the least amount of stress.
When a seedling is transplanted into a new larger container, the root system is isolated within the confines of it's previous container, and suspended in a much larger volume.
A good wet dry cycle consists of allowing the plant to take up all readily availible water in the immediate vicinity of the root system, then allowing the plant to extend it's roots further into the medium in order to reach more moisture. So avoiding the urge to give it more water sooner is very important. Since the medium will wick moisture from the outer areas to the root zone as the moisture levels drop there, the roots are never at risk of dehydration until the container is remarkably low in moisture.
Some might think that the ideal situation in this case would be to give the plant a little water, more often, but this will result in waste toxins from the plant building up in the root zone, and if fertilizers are used regularly, unused fertilizer and salts will build up, locking out nutrient uptake and throwing the pH in the root zone off.
Always give the plant sufficient water to allow some to run through the medium and root system and out of the bottom of the pot. Consider this hygiene.
Keeping the soil too wet will reduce the availibility of oxygen to the roots, causing them to feel like shit and die.
Plants suffering from overwatering (watering too often and keeping the medium saturated) will cause the plant to lose vigor and appear somewhat like the first stages of dehydration, often triggering the smothering instinct in growers and resulting in even more water, like turning fire hose on a drowning man.
Allowing the soil to become too dry will cause the plant to dehydrate, the leaves will wilt due to the loss of moisture, reducing transpiration(1), causing stress that leads to hermaphroditism, as well as reducing the final yield due to the tissue damage.
The surface of the medium evaporates moisture quickly so the surface will appear to be drying out while the bulk of the medium still has a great deal of water availible.
Until you are comfortable with your plants and their needs. A good practice is to keep a pot of the same type that your plants are in, filled with the same medium that your plants are in. Use this to judge the weight of the containers that the plants are in.
When watering you should always add the water slowly so that it seeps through the soil rather then running through it rapidly, creating courses where the bulk of the water travels.
Dry soil has a tendency to repel water at first contact and pockets of trapped air will create bubbles that prevent water from wetting getting to the medium until the free water has passed and the air can travel.
The roots in dryer soil will be freely exposed and vulnerable to nutrient burn. Nutrient enriched water should never be added to dry soil.
I always water in the morning (their morning rarely coincides with my morning...), soon after the lights have come on. This prevents the plants from sitting in saturated containers in the dark, when the least amount of transpiration is occuring.
When the plants are in three gallon containers. I give them each about one quart of clean water with no nutrients or additives, slowly over a period of a minute or two.
Then let them sit for at least ten minutes before adding either water or supplement enriched water.
I then add the liquid slowly, till at least a quart runs out of the bottom, then let them drain fully before retiring them to soak up some morning lumens.
Ok, simple solution, go get some MG houseplant food for 3 or 4 bucks, get some epsom salts for 2 or 3 bucks, go home and put some tap water in a cleaned out plastic 1 gallon milk jug, let the water set out for 24 hours to evaperate the chlorine, mix 30 drops of that MG nutrient (should be 8-7-6 for NPK) this is only 1/3 strength, mix 1/2 teaspoon of epsom salts to that same gallon of tap water and nutes, shake well every so often and let set for 20 minutes or so, then shake again and water/feed that baby she will perk up in 3 days I gaurantee it...
I never said anything about clearex, wtf are you on right now? Please stop being so fucking ignorant, holy shit dude........ Somebody who has been here since 2011 and only 146 posts, pretty sure that speaks for itself.... Maybe you should learn what ghoogle is and start doing some actual research instead of saying "listen to this dude and listen to that dude DERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR" I'm providing accurate information unlike some people who piggy back what people say cause their ignorant minds cant comprehend the simple basics of growing marijuana.... Good day sir, hopefully you will learn to stop talking about things you have no clue about. Oh wait you talk about things you know you would rather just point to the people that you think sounds good cause your the one who knows nothing my bad.... Your momma must be so proud she has such a big troll. She must give you kisses everyday little buddy.. Hopefully next time you wont get all sugared up before finding your way to the big boy forums..
Ok guys lets chill, we're all here to help not hinder...have an open mind to learning new things, that's what I do anyway, not to mention I'm usually to high to argue
and my wife always wins anyway 
...Don't worry, be happy 
The best way to tell when your plant needs water is by watering it till you see about 10% runoff water coming out of the bottom. Lift the pot and see how heavy it is, when your plant is thirsty the pot will be at least 3/4's lighter then when the pot was just watered. Or you can water and wait until you start seeing the leaves droop down then lift the pot and that will give you a good idea when to water. Dont listen to that finger bullshit nubs try to push on ppl....
Its funny most people talk bad about MG nutes because of all the rumors they heard when they were kids (i heard once it takes the THC out of the plants LMFAO) I used it before to test it out and it grew plants just fine. Sadly a good product brought down by ignorance and rumors.By the way, I have plenty of experience with MG soil an nutes...here's my MG grow going now...
View attachment 2699570 MG soil, MG nutes
View attachment 2699571 MG bud porn
. Lesson learned though that happened back in the day when i first started growing.