***SONOFF - WiFi Wireless Smart Switch***

Would you use a Sonoff..?


  • Total voters
    85

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Well I got the daylight hooked up. But for some rason I'm only crawling 86 watts. Something isn' right. I'm running strips 10 strips. With a hlf320h-24a. Wired in parallel. I should be over 300 watts. I have the positive out on the driver going to a wago then running to each positive on the strips. And the same with the negative. How am I only crawling 86 watts? Especially at 3.62a

View attachment 4104072
Have a look at your driver, mate.
There are two holes with rubber grommets. The left one is for voltage settings and the right one is for current dimming. At first set the voltage to the point where the light gets not brighter. (~20v for EBgen2, ~24v for EBgen1 and F-series)
Then turn the right one clockwise to the end to get 100% output(small screwdriver) and make sure the voltage suits with the strip voltage.
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Have a look at your driver, mate.
There are two holes with rubber grommets. The left one is for voltage settings and the right one is for current dimming. At first set the voltage to the point where the light gets not brighter. (~20v for EBgen2, ~24v for EBgen1 and F-series)
Then turn the right one clockwise to the end to get 100% output(small screwdriver) and make sure the voltage suits with the strip voltage.
That's suppose to say hlg320h-24b I dont have pots on it. I have external 100k pot even wide open that' my drawl. Doesn' make sense at all
 
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whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Have a look at your driver, mate.
There are two holes with rubber grommets. The left one is for voltage settings and the right one is for current dimming. At first set the voltage to the point where the light gets not brighter. (~20v for EBgen2, ~24v for EBgen1 and F-series)
Then turn the right one clockwise to the end to get 100% output(small screwdriver) and make sure the voltage suits with the strip voltage.
It' the 7pin hlg320h-24b 13.47 amp 320.13 watts.
 
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whytewidow

Well-Known Member
I used the + And - on one side of the strip. Should I have used the same side. Ya know each strip has 2 + And 2- one of each on each side. I did + on each the same side. Then used the - on the other end.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
I used the + And - on one side of the strip. Should I have used the same side. Ya know each strip has 2 + And 2- one of each on each side. I did + on each the same side. Then used the - on the other end.

It does not matter which + and - pole is used. But are you sure its the A version driver?
Dimmer wires for external dimming means actually its the B version with fixed voltage.
Which strips did you use, I forgot? Maybe they need more than 24volts?!
 

klx

Well-Known Member
Well I got the baylight hooked up. But for some rason I'm only crawling 86 watts. Something isn' right. I'm running strips 10 strips. With a hlf320h-24a. Wired in parallel. I should be over 300 watts. I have the positive out on the driver going to a wago then running to each positive on the strips. And the same with the negative. How am I only crawling 86 watts? Especially at 3.62a

View attachment 4104072
V x A = W.

23.86 x 3.62 = 86.3 Watts.

Seems like something not right with how its hooked up. Shouldnt the volts match your AC - 240 or 110V?
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Yeah sorry I thought it was a meter similar to a killawat but I looked back and saw you mentioned its DC not AC.
Yeah I'm stumped. Other than possible bad driver? Bc it should put out alot more. The reading on the display is wide open pot. Zero dimming. I should be pulling atleast 311.3 watts.
 

klx

Well-Known Member
Yeah I'm stumped. Other than possible bad driver? Bc it should put out alot more. The reading on the display is wide open pot. Zero dimming. I should be pulling atleast 311.3 watts.
You should be able to tell just by looking at your light whether its 80 or 300+ watts. I doubt its the driver I still think it is probably the way its wired as the volts x amps = watts on the display.
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
You should be able to tell just by looking at your light whether its 80 or 300+ watts. I doubt its the driver I still think it is probably the way its wired as the volts x amps = watts on the display.
Well I don't know how else to wire it other than parallel or series. And it's in parallel now.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
A HLG-320H-24 should have 13,34Amps on the dc side. Can you upload a pic from the drivers backside, please. And maybe one from the wiring? You could try is without wago's. Take a red and a black wire and connect the strips in a long row using all 4 strip connectors. A red and black goes to first strip and from there to the next strip and so on. You can also split the circuit to two identical circuits and use both driver outlets.
I'm pretty sure there is something wrong with the wiring. Are you sure the poti is a B100k (b means linear) and it's resistance is really more the 100k? A 25k poti would limit you to 25% driver output.

BTW, F-strips takes more than 24v at room temps and 1,334A(13,34A divided by 10 strips)
, therefor its recommend to use the A version because of its voltage regulator. Maybe you need to add a few more parallel strips to lower the current of each strip. This would also lowering the needed voltage. If you add another 3 strips each would get ~1A, which means it takes only 23-23,5V.



Screenshot_20180312-071945.png
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
If you look at the datasheet the operating voltage @1120mA can be as high as 24,2v@25°(27,1w), 23v@65°(25,8w) or only 21,9v@95°C(24,5w) when strips running hot.
At 1,334A the voltage would be around 25,5v@25°C and 24,5v@65°C which could be to much for your driver.
A few shots from the wiring could really be helpful, mate.

Screenshot_20180312-074300.png
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
too funny. I have a bunch of sonoff devices in my residence. maybe too many. My wifi is poor too. Anyway, after DST came and he sonoffs did not change their time, they did not leap forward, they stayed on the same time. I figured something was wrong. I look at my app and it says, network not available. wifi issue I think.

Anyway, I have my GrowGreen Led Controller running and so I reconnect the flower cabinet back up and no problem. I will let the sonoffs keep going in other areas, just not that one area I need absolute control over the schedule without failure.

I use a relay controlled outlet for my controller takes me a couple minutes to set things up and get them running.
peace
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
too funny. I have a bunch of sonoff devices in my residence. maybe too many. My wifi is poor too. Anyway, after DST came and he sonoffs did not change their time, they did not leap forward, they stayed on the same time. I figured something was wrong. I look at my app and it says, network not available. wifi issue I think.

Anyway, I have my GrowGreen Led Controller running and so I reconnect the flower cabinet back up and no problem. I will let the sonoffs keep going in other areas, just not that one area I need absolute control over the schedule without failure.

I use a relay controlled outlet for my controller takes me a couple minutes to set things up and get them running.
peace
It's really not that hard to change one nunber on your schedule. I believe it says on their website that it doesn't change for dst.
 

1212ham

Well-Known Member
If you look at the datasheet the operating voltage @1120mA can be as high as 24,2v@25°(27,1w), 23v@65°(25,8w) or only 21,9v@95°C(24,5w) when strips running hot.
I don't see it, can you give a page number? I only find 23v & 1120ma at 65°C, page 4.
 
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