Sr. Verde's: Concentrate Corner

bowled

Active Member
lol looks like my kinda girl.

Quick question, could I lose any yield, potency or risk traping butane in the oil for good by letting it sit in pyrex for a couple mins while I reload my tube for another extraction. Or is their some type of time limit on heating the oil up quickly.(hope this question makes sence.)
 

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
I've found that you can't get a complete purge unless you go over 28, in combination with the right temperature to lower the resin viscosity enough to let the bubbles out.

This helps... 15 micron rating
http://hdsupplysolutions.com/shop/product-jb_7_cfm_vacuum_pump-149896

Inturrestin..

Although..



if you look at the difference between 100 microns, and 10 microns ( psi .00193 vs. .000193... or hg 29.916 vs 29.9196) you start to think 25 microns vs 15 microns isn't a whole lot of a difference. That is why I like the $160 harbor freight electric pump, that multiple people have *tested* to be at 25 microns. Your pump is really nice, no doubt about that, I just don't know if it's worth the extra $/step for someone to get "the best". Also 7cfm is a lot. Sounds like a pump that would actually be awesome for HVAC.

No doubt about the over 28hg purge thought. I think that is the way to get the absolute best purge, the higher and more rapid the better. Although I do think you can get an OK purge above 26-27. Anything below 26hg isn't worth it I don't think. Even with 26-27 your looking at doing nearly twice as many separate purges than a very high pump (in my experience, with 26-27 hg it took me 10-12 vacuum exposures to get to a level where the oil hardly reacts to the pressure change. Compared to 5-6 purges with my electric 25 micron vacuum.

:)
 

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
lol looks like my kinda girl.

Quick question, could I lose any yield, potency or risk traping butane in the oil for good by letting it sit in pyrex for a couple mins while I reload my tube for another extraction. Or is their some type of time limit on heating the oil up quickly.(hope this question makes sence.)

Meh. I used to do it all the time, but it never took me longer than 2 minutes, and I only packed 1 tube extra. It's better to have a friend pack an extra tube while you spray the other one. But waiting with butane in your pan certainly messes with consistency. This is why I have 3 tubes, to spray one after the other for the best consistency.

Like you can put warm water underneath your pan to help the tane evap while you reload the tube, but spraying more into an already evap'd pan just gets you this chunky soup consistency. I feel that, for the proper purge, and for the best consistency you should just spray all your butane into your pan as fast as safely possible, and then evaporate as fast as safely possible. It will spread more consistent in your pan, and it will be a better consistency getting it on the dabber, and you wont end up with large floating chunks of BHO in your pan.

In the end, I think it's SAFE, just not the best. It really depends on how good your trying to get. Are you going to be lazy, and cheap? Or are you going to be expensive, and as perfect as possible? I'm seriously not trying to be offensive with that last remark, but it's seriously how BHO goes. It seems the BHO trend sweeping the nation makes everyone think they can be a pro extractor for less than $100. Yet the people who have been doing it for a while have already spent $500-$1000 on equipment alone to get something that's "pretty good" but not absolutely perfect still.
 

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
those plants look ready to make into OIL! Have you tried fresh/frozen extraction using thermos tech? supposedly the best tasting dabs possible.


I have several of the harbor freight pumps that you mention. Run them side by side with the JB beast (actually I have the 3 CFM version of the one I posted). IDK maybe its just louder and I can send the pump oil fumes outside that makes me prefer the beast. But really it gets to full vac very quickly and hits hard after that. Those freight ones work really well for like the first three or so vacs. After that the harder you can pull the easier it is to finish purging. Some of those OGs ect take a shit ton of vac-ing.

Good thing with the harbor freights is that they are pretty quiet and don't take nearly as much juice to run as the JB. I sometimes forget I have them running when I'm in the other room.
 

ENDLSCYCLE

Well-Known Member
In the end, I think it's SAFE, just not the best. It really depends on how good your trying to get. Are you going to be lazy, and cheap? Or are you going to be expensive, and as perfect as possible? I'm seriously not trying to be offensive with that last remark, but it's seriously how BHO goes. It seems the BHO trend sweeping the nation makes everyone think they can be a pro extractor for less than $100. Yet the people who have been doing it for a while have already spent $500-$1000 on equipment alone to get something that's "pretty good" but not absolutely perfect still.
With that being said, I'm in the process of building a vac chamber minus the gauge for $35...lol...damn near identical to ones that sell for $300+...and definitely just as safe...hope to pick up the 1/2" Lexan on Friday!!! Will post pics as soon as it's completed.

....edit....
How bad is the oil exhaust of the HarborFreight 3CFM pumps....is it something to be done outside???
I mean, the bitch isn't smoking like an old beater is it?
 

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
those plants look ready to make into OIL! Have you tried fresh/frozen extraction using thermos tech? supposedly the best tasting dabs possible.


I have several of the harbor freight pumps that you mention. Run them side by side with the JB beast (actually I have the 3 CFM version of the one I posted). IDK maybe its just louder and I can send the pump oil fumes outside that makes me prefer the beast. But really it gets to full vac very quickly and hits hard after that. Those freight ones work really well for like the first three or so vacs. After that the harder you can pull the easier it is to finish purging. Some of those OGs ect take a shit ton of vac-ing.

Good thing with the harbor freights is that they are pretty quiet and don't take nearly as much juice to run as the JB. I sometimes forget I have them running when I'm in the other room.
Thanks dude! Yeah they are, you should see them on the racks, all shrunk down. Crazy white.

Good to hear your input on the JB. I wonder if the CFM has anything to do with the extra bubble pulling. I'm sure you know just the constant pumping, at full vacuum is what draws the deep bubbles out. The BHO doesn't bubble much when just sitting in a high vacuum with no pump actively running. My chamber is only 1CFM though, with a 3CFM pump. Might I ask what type/size of chamber do you see/use when purging that BHO?

Noise is a problem for me personally, I vacuum purge outside, for safety, while constantly monitoring my pump. But you run a hose outside for the vapors or what?
 

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
Thanks dude! Yeah they are, you should see them on the racks, all shrunk down. Crazy white.

Good to hear your input on the JB. I wonder if the CFM has anything to do with the extra bubble pulling. I'm sure you know just the constant pumping, at full vacuum is what draws the deep bubbles out. The BHO doesn't bubble much when just sitting in a high vacuum with no pump actively running. My chamber is only 1CFM though, with a 3CFM pump. Might I ask what type/size of chamber do you see/use when purging that BHO?

Noise is a problem for me personally, I vacuum purge outside, for safety, while constantly monitoring my pump. But you run a hose outside for the vapors or what?
JB has a male garden hose fitting on the exhaust, a couple feet of hose and done.
I agree about running the pump and not holding it under vac. 100%
Its about vac oven time me thinks.
 

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
A vacuum oven would be swell. :lol:

I wouldn't mind vacuuming inside, away from the bugs!
So I don't hear a lot of people talking about changing their oil. But I do basically at the end of every work day. I use exxon brand. seems to work just fine. anyone?
 

caveman420

Well-Known Member
some bho... ill post pics of the herb later... i whip for 5 min,then i just wrap it up in parch paper then keep it a warm spot then when i unwrap it its budder:leaf::leaf::leaf::leaf:
 

ddimebag

Active Member
Hey guys, I got a question for you regarding isomerization. I have some hash oil that I want to isomerize, but I don't have any pure H2SO4 lying around, only some HCL (2M). Would it still work if I dissolve the hash oil in methanol, then add the HCL (how much?) and reflux for a while (how long?) in a hot water bath. I would then neutralize the HCL with NaOH, leaving me with H2O and NaCl (safer, imo, than sulfate salts). Do I then separate the extract by adding water and ether to separate the layers, and siphon off the ether (with the cannabinoids)? It seems fine in theory, but I am no chemist, and I haven't done this particular procedure before...so any advice would be much appreciated.
 

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, I got a question for you regarding isomerization. I have some hash oil that I want to isomerize, but I don't have any pure H2SO4 lying around, only some HCL (2M). Would it still work if I dissolve the hash oil in methanol, then add the HCL (how much?) and reflux for a while (how long?) in a hot water bath. I would then neutralize the HCL with NaOH, leaving me with H2O and NaCl (safer, imo, than sulfate salts). Do I then separate the extract by adding water and ether to separate the layers, and siphon off the ether (with the cannabinoids)? It seems fine in theory, but I am no chemist, and I haven't done this particular procedure before...so any advice would be much appreciated.
Be careful, your stepping on un solid grounds!

Anyway, here's something from erowid.

Erowid.org said:
Here is one from the archive: From: bprofane@netcom.com (Gert Niewahr) Isomerization: This method is out of "Dr. Atomic's Marijuana Multiplier," one of those early 70's doper pamphlets. This process assumes you have pure hash oil to begin with. "Dissolve the hash oil in absolute ethanol or pure methanol in the ratio of one gram extract to ten grams solvent. There must be no water in this solution, as the next step is the addition of one drop of 100% sulfuric acid per gram of extract. Add the acid slowly, drop by drop, stirring slowly and completely, with a long glass stirring rod. Place a Pyrex pot containing the extract-alcohol-acid solution into the refluxing apparatus and reflux for two hours. The acid will not evaporate and will remain in the Pyrex pot. Allow to cool. Take the cooled solution, pour with an equal volume of water and 1/2 volume of petroleum ether into the ether-extraction apparatus (separation funnel). Allow to settle, and drain the ether extract layer. This leaves an ether-extract-acid mix from which the acid must be purged. To accomplish this, pour the ether-extract-solution into four volumes of 5% sodium bicarbonate solution (1 gram bicarb. in 20 grams of water). This will neutralize the acid, releasing CO2 and leaving a solution of sodium sulphate. Allow this to settle into layers, then drain the ether-extract layer. Mix the ether-extract solution with an equal volume of pure water and let it separate. Drain off the ether-extract layer. Evaporate the ether and what remains is hash oil in which all of the cannabinoids have been converted into THC." Oh my, having just typed all this in, I thought to check my copy of "Cannabis Alchemy" for a method. Not only does it concur with this method of isomerization, it has lots of whiz hints on fractionally distilling hash oil to get an ultra-pure product. It also claims that if you convert THC to its acetate, it becomes very potent and psychedelic. Yow.
Source: http://www.erowid.org/plants/cannabis/cannabis_chemistry2.shtml
 

ENDLSCYCLE

Well-Known Member
^^^I never really understood the method here...what's the point...what are we trying to accomplish...especially when it starts out by saying "This process assumes you have pure hash oil to begin with."
 
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