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Steel frames for DIY COB kits?

Rottedroots

Well-Known Member
I've got three 300 watt six COB kits with drivers to mount to frames and I'm wondering if anyone has used steel? I can get steel in 24 foot lengths delivered free with no minimum. L's, T's, Channels and Flats as thin as 1/8th. Weight is not an issue and I could use magnets to keep things in place but still allow me to move things around dependent on what's happening. I can weld and have the equipment to cut, grind and polish steel. Is there a reason why more people don't use steel? Also do Magnets have ANY effect on COB's or drivers?
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
its heavy, harder to cut, drill, and tap, does not dissipate heat as well as aluminum,and unlike aluminum it requires finishing to look nice

so thats 5 fairly good reasons i guess
 

Shugglet

Well-Known Member
its heavy, harder to cut, drill, and tap, does not dissipate heat as well as aluminum,and unlike aluminum it requires finishing to look nice

so thats 5 fairly good reasons i guess
He's not using them as heatsinks it would appear.

No reason not to build frame out of it.
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
they still help dissipate heat when you bolt heatsinks to them. and that still leaves 4 good reasons for the average non-metalworker

not sure how much cheaper steel will be as they sell both by the pound and for a given shape steel is a lot heavier
 

freemanjack

Well-Known Member
Ok, steel vs ally for frames, the primary issue here will be spanning ability, this will be limited by the malleability of the profile you are using, angle iron in mild steel will be drawn and will have a very linear crystal structure, this leaves it quite weak in some directions, a similar thickness of ally angle will be extruded from a liquid, it cools in its extruded form and has effectively right angled crystalline structure which gives it an incredible structural rigidity for its weight and in comparison with folding sheet ally into a similar profile. So in conclusion, a similar thickness of steel 90 deg angle profile and its ally equivalent will have very similar spanning capabilities but the steel will be many times heavier also the structural stiffness will have very different properties, the steel will sag over a long run, the ally will either hold its load or fail catastrophically. My personal preference is for ally for lighting fixtures because you can always triangulate and use multiple lengths to add rigidity without excessive weight cost. In my experience the cost of a 16 gauge angle profile is very similar for both materials, ally extrusion can be bought cheaply from home despot type shops as 'picture frame' very cheaply in 8 foot lengths.
 
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