Success with high temps and humidity in flower?

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
As the title says, anyone had/has success running in high temps and high humidity in flower? Temps are around 30c lights on 28 lights off. Humidity sitting between 60/70. Got good airflow and plants seem happy, just worried about major terp loss
Yea definitely terp loss, but you need to be mindful of pm with that high of rh. Airflow helps, but no guarantee.
 

VaSmile

Well-Known Member
Temps are warm but not hot. RH is moist but not wet.
30c should not cause major issues nor should 70%rh the 2 together is iffy.
How big is your grow space? Tent room or cab?
 

HydroKid239

Well-Known Member
I've dealt with the same conditions. Limiting leaf on leaf contact will help reduce risks of pm.
If two leaves are constantly laying on top of each other, moisture will build between them. (pluck one of them)
Keep air flow going & vent outside if possible.
 

Spineytingley

Active Member
4x4 tent, partly insulated in loft, drawing air in from living space downstairs, venting through eves. Plenty of airflow in there, have been defoliating quite heavily too to try lower RH. Running two large homemade SIPs which is where the humidity issue is coming from I think. First time using them and first time I've had this RH issue. The girls are loving the beds so far though, best growth I've seen thus far
 

VaSmile

Well-Known Member
Open your tent for a couple of hrs during peak heat to try and keep your temps just a little lower. Hang a dry towel when you close your tent. That should keep your temps at about 1C lower and your RH down about 5%. Not a lot but your right on the line of safe/risky so small measures will go a long way
 

ALPHA.GanjaGuy

Well-Known Member
I did this my last run, in an overstuffed tent (14 3 gal in a 4x4) no less, due to NY's summer being ridiculously hot and humid this year.. the last few weeks I even started running a dehu raising my tempts to high 80's low 90's but bringing RH down to 60% or below. its a must that you go in and clear out the lowers to open up air flow and any overlapping leafs as mentioned above to prevent pm risk, also hopefully you feed a silica product.

also if you can move your temp/rh meter around to different areas of the tent, the real killer in these setups running at the edge of safe temps/rh is micro climates imo.. they can cause one plant to go to shit and that one plant will spread to the others real quick

air flow! air flow! air flow!
I had some foxtailing and some loss of nug density from some plants, but otherwise terps did not seem to be affected for the few plants that I previously grew under normal temps and RH..

besides adding the dehu (which I wish I went with an AC instead but wasn't an option) I also ended up gradually lowering light intensity and lighting schedule to 10.5/13.5,
 

Spineytingley

Active Member
I'm suffering from the same issue right now. It's 31c in the tent and the RH is sitting at 65%.

I'm going to buy an air conditioner in the next few months for next year.
Bro I don't blame you. Considering the same it's just the leccy bill that will suffer haha. Its meant to drop 10 degrees here by next week so hoping I've timed it right and these girls ride out their mid/late flow in more reasonable temps. Peaked 35c when my lights flicked on today!
 

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
Temperatures above 80 °F in flower will most certainly evaporate some of your terpenes. I like running a 75/55% daytime in flower and 85/65% in veg. Those numbers work great for my current setup and genetics. I also supplement co2 and don't need to run my flowering room at a blazing 85 °F to get the benefits, that's malarkey sales pitch nonsense. "Run less air conditioning you can grow your plants in 85 degree rooms with 60% humidity" you can also get mold, attract pests such as mites and evaporate terpenes running hot temps.

Hot temps and high humidity work for sure but ideally you want to avoid it.
 

Bud man 43

Well-Known Member
RH over 65 in flower can cause problems.
Mold begins to grow at 65% rh- early flower is no problem but when you have colas develop it should be no more than 60%.
short periods of time are ok but I would recommend staying at or below 60% to keep mold out of your buds
 

Jjgrow420

Well-Known Member
If your room is 80° leaf surface temps will be lower. Likely around 76-78. It's not so much the ambient room temp as much as it is the leaf surface temps. I run over 80° with led. There isn't any noticeable Terp loss. In fact, I have far better, faster growing plants with temps above 80. But as stated above high temps and high humidity can cause issues. Especially if you have a dense canopy. You will start to encounter 'micro climates' where there are different temps and humidity depending on where your taking measurements from eg top of tent, middle in canopy, and under canopy. This can cause dew to form during lights on/off. Bad news. It can also trap humidity all around the biomass at any time which is also bad.
 

Jjgrow420

Well-Known Member
Temperatures above 80 °F in flower will most certainly evaporate some of your terpenes. I like running a 75/55% daytime in flower and 85/65% in veg. Those numbers work great for my current setup and genetics. I also supplement co2 and don't need to run my flowering room at a blazing 85 °F to get the benefits, that's malarkey sales pitch nonsense. "Run less air conditioning you can grow your plants in 85 degree rooms with 60% humidity" you can also get mold, attract pests such as mites and evaporate terpenes running hot temps.

Hot temps and high humidity work for sure but ideally you want to avoid it.
It's actually science not malarkey.
Metabolism speeds up with higher temps. That's when you would need to supplement CO2, and run higher ec. Otherwise it's a waste of money, getting negligible gains for the amount of money and effort you're putting in using the CO2. Basic (proven) science
 

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
It's actually science not malarkey.
Metabolism speeds up with higher temps. That's when you would need to supplement CO2, and run higher ec. Otherwise it's a waste of money, getting negligible gains for the amount of money and effort you're putting in using the CO2. Basic (proven) science
Your theory is that if you push the plant to photorespiration you can supplement co2 to correct it basically. 85 is where most c3 plants begin to reduce or slow down their RuBisCO process which is what actually does the carbon fixation within the plant. If you heat beyond those temperatures carbon fixation turns into photorespiration where you're literally causing detriment not benefit. The plant can begin taking in o2 instead of co2 and it causes a buildup of phosphoglycolate within the plant. The plant has to use a very wasteful process to process out the phosphoglycolate and other stress related compounds out of the plant. Referred to as a literal complete waste of energy.

In C3 plants, which Cannabis Sativa(1) is, photorespiration is an issue. Rubisco, which drives the Calvin reactions, cannot differentiate between CO2 and O2. Under stressful conditions, such as an excessively hot, or dry environment Rubisco will perform its reaction with oxygen instead, creating 2-Phosphoglycolate, which is ultimately useless for the plant. To try and salvage this into something usable the plant must undergo photorespiration, an incredibly wasteful pathway.
Based on that information it sounds like running hot temps and risking photorespiration would be more detrimental even with co2 than running cooler temps say 80 °F daytime 75 nighttime and a modest 60-55% humidity.
 
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Jjgrow420

Well-Known Member
Your theory is that if you push the plant to photorespiration you can supplement co2 to correct it basically. 85 is where most c3 plants begin to reduce or slow down their RuBisCO process which is what actually does the carbon fixation within the plant. If you heat beyond those temperatures carbon fixation turns into photorespiration where you're literally causing detriment not benefit. The plant can begin taking in o2 instead of co2 and it causes a buildup of phosphoglycolate within the plant.

I'm reciting this from here a real scientific article not what a LED grow light blog said.
Yep you're right. I thought it was higher than 85 though. I actually didn't say any of that I just said that higher temps and higher feed need higher CO2 for maximum possible production. Low CO2 you're wasting light and feed, reverse that then you're technically wasting CO2 where the plant would produce the same if not maybe only a negligible amount more than if you didn't use it (and if youre running too intense light without CO2 you'd likely get less) So technically it would be unnecessary due to the fact it would be roughly the same either way but more cost effective without. Using CO2 is only truly effective when all other variables are dialed in. And if you're going to that level of cost and control then why wouldn't you want to have the best outcome? I mean I'm not telling you what to do either way it's your grow and if that's what works for you then power to the people but I'm simply stating the facts.
 

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
Yep you're right. I thought it was higher than 85 though. I actually didn't say any of that I just said that higher temps and higher feed need higher CO2 for maximum possible production. Low CO2 you're wasting light and feed, reverse that then you're technically wasting CO2 where the plant would produce the same if not maybe only a negligible amount more than if you didn't use it (and if youre running too intense light without CO2 you'd likely get less) So technically it would be unnecessary due to the fact it would be roughly the same either way but more cost effective without. Using CO2 is only truly effective when all other variables are dialed in. And if you're going to that level of cost and control then why wouldn't you want to have the best outcome? I mean I'm not telling you what to do either way it's your grow and if that's what works for you then power to the people but I'm simply stating the facts.
I misread your post going back, you said feed higher ec I read it wrong, so we both had a wrong idea on both of our ends but hey we are always learning. I have experimented with high humidity high temps cause trust me I would love to turn my mini split up to 85 and my dehu to 60% to save on electricity but unfortunately the plants were not happy and my yields ultimately suffered. I came from HPS to LED so I had to learn a lot about temps, when I ran HPS I would run 75 cause plants would be as hot as 82 at the leaf sometimes.

I have found the most optimal growth for all of my different genetics I've been running, some as long as 5 years from clone, these are my best results according to my notes and also the Pulse monitor notes.
1694216730733.png

I'm not opposed to hitting 80 °F on a regular basis either, but once it gets hotter than that I start to stress out for my plants.
 
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