sulfur burners?

Chumlie

Well-Known Member
Im trying to figure out hot to vaporize it. See I know how to make a vaporizer, but a sulfur burner is a little different. The one I have seen had a light socket inside of it with flat top ceremic object screwed into it then you put the sulfur on top of that and it vaporizes it. Something like that.
 

JustDanMI

Member
Im trying to figure out hot to vaporize it. See I know how to make a vaporizer, but a sulfur burner is a little different. The one I have seen had a light socket inside of it with flat top ceremic object screwed into it then you put the sulfur on top of that and it vaporizes it. Something like that.
Here's the site I used to build a couple I made a couple days:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=117056
 

potpimp

Sector 5 Moderator
If you're doing hydro, be aware that the sulfur in the air will collect in your rez and lower the pH so keep a sharp eye out for that.
 

Mizzarkus

Member
So I read that the sulfur burners only work because it coats the leaves with a high ph level so that the mold cant grow anymore. If I just get some water and some PH up, can I just spray the plants with that to get the same result? What would be the pro's and cons of doing this? Thanks.
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
So I read that the sulfur burners only work because it coats the leaves with a high ph level so that the mold cant grow anymore. If I just get some water and some PH up, can I just spray the plants with that to get the same result? What would be the pro's and cons of doing this? Thanks.
Since NO ONE at all does this, is that enough answer for you?

Wet
 

Mizzarkus

Member
Since NO ONE at all does this, is that enough answer for you?

Wet
Not really. If everyone had that attitude, I don't think very many things would happen in this lifetime. Would you care to explain why this doesnt work to me please? Or anyone really.
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
Suffice it to say that since 1988 when I got my first Sinsemilla Tips magazine with a lengthy article on PM and other nasty molds, I have seen a multitude of different cures and fixes.

Not one in 23 Years+ mentioned using pH Up as a solution or fix. If it actually worked and didn't kill the plant in the process, I'm sure it would have come to light by now, stoners being the experimental souls they are.

I would guess "it will kill the plant" is the most obvious reason, IDK. Perhaps it just doesn't work. Again, IDK. I don't really care either. Its omission, all these years is answer enough for me, and for sure, you aren't the first person to think of this.

Give it a shot and let us know how it works out.

Sorry if I sounded unduly snarky, it happens.

Wet
 

woodsmaneh!

Well-Known Member
Long time ago, like 8 anyhow I got Powdery Mildew went to the shop and they sold me a burner. Went home and used it for 3 days than did some home work and have never used it again. Mildew is caused by the right environmental conditions and all you need to do is change one or all of them. So here is some info and at the end is what I did to stop it.

What Causes Powdery Mildew?

Powdery mildew fungi seem to be everywhere. They overwinter in plant debris begin producing spores in the spring. These spores are carried to your plants by wind, insects and splashing water. Conditions that encourage the growth and spread of powdery mildew include:
  • Dampness or high humidity (Not common during rainy seasons or in extreme heat)
  • Crowded plantings
  • Poor air circulation

Controlling Powdery Mildew



  • Choose healthy plants and keep they growing healthy
  • Try and find a powdery mildew resistant cultivar, if your area is susceptible
  • Don’t plant non-resistant varieties in the shade
Once Your Plants are Infected:

  • Remove and destroy all infected plant parts
  • Improve air circulation by thinning and pruning
  • Don’t fertilized until the problem is corrected. Powdery mildew favors young, succulent growth
  • Don’t water plants from above
  • Apply a fungicide: There are many fungicides available. Check the label to be sure they are safe and effective on the type of plant that is infected. Look for ingredients such as: potassium bicarbonate, neem oil, sulfur or copper. There are also chemical fungicides, such as triforine, that can be used on ornamental plants. There is also a home remedy made from baking soda that is effective. Most fungicides will need repeat applications every 7 - 14 days, for continuous protection. Always follow the label instructions for both application and waiting period before harvest
#1 I put a fan on the floor to keep the air around the bottom of the plants moving.
#2 I have a fan hooked up to a humidity switch that fires at 50%
#3 I lollipop all my girls, allows for good air circulation.
#4 If I get it I spray with 20% milk to water so the leaf gets wet, turn the fans on and your done. There is an em-zine in the milk that kills the P M.


:joint::bigjoint:
 
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