sump pump + dehumidifier + waterproof room design to prevent h&m for underground g.r?

the way we cut the hill out was to well blow it to break it up then remove it ...............if u make the charges up before u start u can have the work done in 3 days

the center charge u want like 2 lbs of black power and the 4 coners just 1/2 lb

that should blow a 4 depth hole and give u the room to start shaping the walls down


oh u dig a post hole about 1 foot 1 and half feet down then pack it ...................if u go deeper and skinny holes u want to do lines of 6 about 3/4 lb of black powder per foot

if u drill the whole 14 feet down use a maximum of 4 lbs per row

justugh said:

u can use a man hole system to get into the room ...................just where ever u have it opening too u need a few plants around it to mask the lering smells when u open and leave the rooms / move stuff up and down the pathway out

smells will stay around (water holds them) so in the tube the water will retain it after a few hours the smell will natural break up (like with running from dogs ) .....if u can keep the tube dry and send warm air down into it to dry it up faster then the smell will be going in matter of 30 45 mins

when u run from the cops the woods and high grass is not your friend u want desert type ...............cross the feild in the late morning once the sun hits it and warms up the smell floats off

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So basically with the manhole system its dog proof besides within a few hours after an entry? I can definately live with that. I'm keeping this on the low with ppl and its not really that large + its past 3 feet of soil to avoid ir, so I don't think I should have leo issues with dogs anyway its just one of those if just in case things.

I'm pretty sure even if they did catch on somehow and got a search warrent with dogs they would do it at some point in the daytime. If I only access the room between like 1-3a.m. that should gI've me plenty of time for the smell to disappate before they would come in with the dogs (feels to me the earlyest pissible they would do it is 5am but way more likely in pm.)

well i got one more trick i can share

u need to rig a burn system ......................if the room bursn then they have nothing but ash and u can not be charged

this is a very scarey things to mess with ...............the honest best way is a propain burner (turn the whole room into a gain oven) and once it is started no way to stop it untill all the gas is used up

this is a trick i learned way back in the day if it burns then they got shit in court system...............anything that is damning in court u have to be willing to destory it all or do time

(copper stil is great u get the heat high it melts) as this is just plants u need to burn the leaves and the flowers .............the rest of it can be anything with the right lawyer

rem what u tell the lawyer is what they have to work with ..................if u tell them the whole truth they will be limited do to the fact they are not allowed to knowing lie to the court system (puts the job at risk most will not do unless u are paying in the 5 digit pay range mid to high end) ................so if u burn the room and gets rid of alot but not all and they take it to case u can not tell the lawyer that u were growing ....................experimental plant a cross of some important illegal pepper to have (this is a crime but it is not tracking and massive time u will get a big fine for importing illegal plant life second 3rd time time then u face jail for repeat

justugh said:

the way we cut the hill out was to well blow it to break it up then remove it ...............if u make the charges up before u start u can have the work done in 3 days

the center charge u want like 2 lbs of black power and the 4 coners just 1/2 lb

that should blow a 4 depth hole and give u the room to start shaping the walls down


oh u dig a post hole about 1 foot 1 and half feet down then pack it ...................if u go deeper and skinny holes u want to do lines of 6 about 3/4 lb of black powder per foot

if u drill the whole 14 feet down use a maximum of 4 lbs per row

Click to expand...

Should this be done on the 4 corners of the sloping or of the 12x14 hole I'm digging? How far down would you recommend I placed the charges? Would this even be worth it if I had a excavator that could dig it no prob?

12 x14 area

alls the 5 thing does is break it up ..............the 1 and half foot post pole is to help direct the blast down and into the ground

before u atempt this ( u most check with miss uilty to comes out and mark the lines ...................something like this will send shock waves in the ground and can break pipes


this is something u must triple check about ......................we did this in the foot hills of the mountains no lines or anything around

understand this is a booom ....................look into mining and it will give u alot of the calus and methods of doing it ................just rem since all the crazy ppl out there and all that some of what they use to do this is federal watched ..................so u have to change things around and use what u can get hands on safetly


cannon black powder ...................fuse cord and a m100 is what we used ..................we got powder from any gun store 2 lbs is maximum u can get and u are getting ready for something and firing off a cannon as the finally..............the rest a fireworks store

we did a 2 min fuse ....................lit it ran to the car got in the car drove as fast as could away from it stoped with 10 secs on the clock windows down ear covered

as in using charges that is up to u if u are a valley type thing and not much rocks ...........go for the strait digging

but if u are in a area of rocks and other things about 4 5 feet under the soil charges is the quickest way to do it..........................when u make a bed and u do that last wave on the blanket to get the wrinkles out and all that ...............u are doing that to the ground when it goes off u are not trying to eject it just lossen it so it carts away much easier then digging the compressed down earth

u are fluffing the earth with the charge ..................done right watching a person sees the ground go up about 18inchs and falls and dust covers the area for 5 10 mins

oh yah the dust....................after each charge u want to give time for this to settle we worked on 30 mins since was nice breeze

justugh said:

12 x14 area

alls the 5 thing does is break it up ..............the 1 and half foot post pole is to help direct the blast down and into the ground

before u atempt this ( u most check with miss uilty to comes out and mark the lines ...................something like this will send shock waves in the ground and can break pipes


this is something u must triple check about ......................we did this in the foot hills of the mountains no lines or anything around

understand this is a booom ....................look into mining and it will give u alot of the calus and methods of doing it ................just rem since all the crazy ppl out there and all that some of what they use to do this is federal watched ..................so u have to change things around and use what u can get hands on safetly


cannon black powder ...................fuse cord and a m100 is what we used ..................we got powder from any gun store 2 lbs is maximum u can get and u are getting ready for something and firing off a cannon as the finally..............the rest a fireworks store

we did a 2 min fuse ....................lit it ran to the car got in the car drove as fast as could away from it stoped with 10 secs on the clock windows down ear covered

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Yeah I don't think I'm going thru that I am in the woods but I'm 150yds from houses. Including mine. I think a week with just the excavator should be enough to tear thru all the roots and stumps to get the hole dug.

As for the manhole idea...I want the actual door to be at least 3x4ft in case I have to bring anything big. Never know what ima wanna change down the line. Is there anyother way I can make a sealed door raised from the actual door but bigger than a manhole.

justugh said:

as in using charges that is up to u if u are a valley type thing and not much rocks ...........go for the strait digging

but if u are in a area of rocks and other things about 4 5 feet under the soil charges is the quickest way to do it..........................when u make a bed and u do that last wave on the blanket to get the wrinkles out and all that ...............u are doing that to the ground when it goes off u are not trying to eject it just lossen it so it carts away much easier then digging the compressed down earth

u are fluffing the earth with the charge ..................done right watching a person sees the ground go up about 18inchs and falls and dust covers the area for 5 10 mins

oh yah the dust....................after each charge u want to give time for this to settle we worked on 30 mins since was nice breeze

Click to expand...

I would like to do this but I think itll be unnessesary its not rocky. There are mad roots tho but like 3in thick at most and I'm pretty sure excavator will break thru them like toothpicks.

i am guessing u are getting the back hoe and front loader combo with the footer system

double check on the back hoes teeth make sure they have given u one made for the job...........i am big lover of over kill some of them can break rocks with right teeth on the buckets

well if u do it u can do a post hole trick with several 50 lbs sand bags on top it will muffle it/direct it into the ground should only sound like a loud gun shot.........just run the fuse tho some pvc piping so it is a clean burn and boom (u can hit the sand bags with the hose muffle it more)


u have trees on top/around u .................u never said this u are going to have root issues ...........once u break this soil and the roots up they will grow again ..................u need to look into a away to stop them sinnce u are wood/tar/metal bracking only .................something u might mix in the soils u back fill it with so it does not want to grow / a steel pannel

justugh said:

i am guessing u are getting the back hoe and front loader combo with the footer system

double check on the back hoes teeth make sure they have given u one made for the job...........i am big lover of over kill some of them can break rocks with right teeth on the buckets

well if u do it u can do a post hole trick with several 50 lbs sand bags on top it will muffle it/direct it into the ground should only sound like a loud gun shot.........just run the fuse tho some pvc piping so it is a clean burn and boom (u can hit the sand bags with the hose muffle it more)


u have trees on top/around u .................u never said this u are going to have root issues ...........once u break this soil and the roots up they will grow again ..................u need to look into a away to stop them sinnce u are wood/tar/metal bracking only .................something u might mix in the soils u back fill it with so it does not want to grow / a steel pannel

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Well these are roots from trees that I'm cutting all down so they'll be nothing to grow back. No trees within like 10ft of the slope and they are all small trees.

ok then just need to lay insect stuff.................dead tree roots rot and hollow out and then ants move into a huge ready made nest ................personal exp in my yard

Can do. Now how can I go about making a elevated enrty "tunnel" that would be at least 3x3? Do they make manholes that big? If so how to attach it with a tube down to around the trapdoor?

Oh and what size motor am I looking for
In the sump pump?

And as for the intake air hole, the thicker the pvc pipe diameter the better?

And since I'm 6ft under...should I even bother with leds (wanted for there no ir no heat aspect) or just go with hps/mh?

the tunnel going down to your area

several ways of doing this ..............are u a hunter


the sump pump all depends on the amount of are leaking in .............my honest advice would be talk to the guy in the store and say u have a subbasement in a biz u are opening up and to be safe u want to have one tell them it is 15 fet under street lvl and they should have a better idea of what water leaking rate is for that area ......tell them 2 times the size of your area (the tarp over the back fill will help reduce this and the air pressure too so what they say will be triple strong or double and half and should never have a issuse

the ducting pipe ............12 inchs intake and a exhust of 8 inchs ............if u make a strong intake system then reducing the exhust size will natural help make pressure for u and a dampner system even more so...........along with this u can u a filter exit system the air will be pushed out (so a carbon filter on the market will work bu just attaching it to the exit starting point u do not need a fan sucking it the pressure will do it



if u are a hunter i can give u a pully system idea with thefact that they need a hang rack ..................the way in would be under a slap of concert and with the deer guts on top of that the dog issuse is gone

if u can this is just a sneaky legal trick the land u have the room on and the venting and all that if u own it get it sectioned off and sell it to anouther person in family so any warnets filed for your home will not include that area if they acess it then u have a excape in the warrent paper work (if u own it a warrent for the grounds would cover this ) but if u do not then they would need a reason to get a warrent on that person and then tare it up to access it

(sneaky locking system is with a magnet and latch system u need the magent to move the latch that allows the top to move to see tunnel .....for it to work they need to know the right strenght where to place and how to move it to open) child locking idea

ok this next part is all theory i am not saying to do any of it i am just offering a idea

the tunnel going in can be just a strait 3x3 tube at the bottom as u hit a certin lvl u can have the hatch open so u can walk all the way down the ladder.......or the hatch slide open and then u go all the way down in

to get something out just a pullie system load it up head to the top pull it up set to side do it again and then lock up ..........moving something in just reverse it

as it is a hunters hanging stand for bleeding and gutting all that stuff a set of pullies in the area and a table is not uncommon so u can store stuff that looks like it should be there and the pullies is simple system u add several and u can lower/lift 500 lbs with 50 lbs of effort


now the simplest and strongest way to make the tubing down is not legal but they dick us so this is pay back

look all over u will see concret sewer/rain water tubes just laying on the side of building sites that have stalled ( i know one area stacked like wood and they have not touched them for 2 years).............u stand it up and at the bottom make sure the roof has the bracing for the weight...............run your numbers and then triple it to be safe build using that ...............u are not telling ppl about this so if something bad happends and u are incased no one will find u


on that note run some protected wires out u can tie into a cell phone and get a singal ...............and learn the gps cords to your way in (this could save life )

lights go 1000w HID

u are more then protected the venting is going to a green house the heat they make will keep the room at a temp u want turning it off lower it natural temp in the soil at that lvl 67 68

ok the hatch in ..............u need a drain system and waterseal on the door ..........if anthing leaks like blood or water u can make sure it drains away from the door not messing with your stuff............carry in a bottle of water and dump it along the side just before u open clean anything away

this can be a simple slope on the side of the way in with a path way to drain (like a pipe with holes in it pushed in dirt ......goes in pipe then goes into the dirt like mini pit.............if only doing one pipe i say a 2 inch 12 inches long holes every 1/4 inch ...............if u get a massive leak a hand cranked pump with the start point in the bottom of the door drain tube will allow u to hand pump it out and get access saftely

just double check the drain on the hatch in and the hatch to the tube and should be good that part is just incase (plan for the wrost hope for the best never disapointed and always happly surprized )

justugh said:

the ducting pipe ............12 inchs intake and a exhust of 8 inchs ............if u make a strong intake system then reducing the exhust size will natural help make pressure for u and a dampner system even more so...........along with this u can u a filter exit system the air will be pushed out (so a carbon filter on the market will work bu just attaching it to the exit starting point u do not need a fan sucking it the pressure will do it



if u are a hunter i can give u a pully system idea with thefact that they need a hang rack ..................the way in would be under a slap of concert and with the deer guts on top of that the dog issuse is gone

Click to expand...

And you said earlier the intake needs to be just left open no fan and the carbon flitered exaust has the output fan on it right?

As for dog/entry...So if I build the room with a pretty well sealed trap door. Door will be heavy and will swing upwords, so there is pressure on its connection with its base. Then I will make it as airtight as possible. That will be 3x3 and surrounding it will be a 4x4 wood "tunnel" that will be very sealed waterproof and airtight with roodtop. Then on top of this I will do another door just like the trap door as sort of a lid. The top of that will be 3ft down as prevention of ir leakage into tunnel that could be picked up. Marking where to dig down the 3 feet with a big flat rock to flip over and back. As for the deer my house isnt in a good hunting location if I had a deer hunging there they could assumed I went and killed just to hide a scent from a dog there. This of course if they were looking for a grow room already. Or maybe I'm just insanely paranoid.

Any other good dog stopping tricks up your sleeve?

dylan843 said:

And you said earlier the intake needs to be just left open no fan and the carbon flitered exaust has the output fan on it right?

As for dog/entry...So if I build the room with a pretty well sealed trap door. Door will be heavy and will swing upwords, so there is pressure on its connection with its base. Then I will make it as airtight as possible. That will be 3x3 and surrounding it will be a 4x4 wood "tunnel" that will be very sealed waterproof and airtight with roodtop. Then on top of this I will do another door just like the trap door as sort of a lid. The top of that will be 3ft down as prevention of ir leakage into tunnel that could be picked up. Marking where to dig down the 3 feet with a big flat rock to flip over and back. As for the deer my house isnt in a good hunting location if I had a deer hunging there they could assumed I went and killed just to hide a scent from a dog there. This of course if they were looking for a grow room already. Or maybe I'm just insanely paranoid.

Any other good dog stopping tricks up your sleeve?

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your intake is that strong good one.................the air is cleaned of mold and virus and the power of it is somewhere in 1000cfm range (this will keep the mold out along with the air pressure up).............the exhust ducting out u want smaller and does not need anything pulling on it ......a carbon filter is only a option the dust covers need replacing every 2/3 months life is about 12 months on carbon

several .............do u own animals/pets if u do not or if that is that far away so not really in their area
http://landscaping.about.com/od/pestcontrol/a/dog_repellents.htm
they make several things ....................the venting point going out in that area u have chilli pepper plants and jasmine flowers ............the area that it is in u put wild jasmine and thron bushes to grow during the summer spring and fall

now understand the dog stuff they can charge u with harming a cop in his line of duties (2 choices u post that it has been done then it is own fault or u do it then u never have anything provening u have done it ) all things in cash

Oh and about the exaust...my new location (to be able to accomedate for the sloping) is a good bit farther back in the woods a greenhouse would look way out of place there.

The greenhouse idea was when it was right on the othrr side of my fence and itlooked normal

So I still might just put the greenhouse in and just run the duct a good 150ft over to it. As for the pvc pipe for the pump...that I'm just gunna have to hide in thick thick brush and camo it up.

Am also going to look Into that destroy/growing illegal peppers idea. And with this, grow exclusively peppers in my greenhouse. Making the story add up betbetter if shit were to go sour.