Switching to Bloom

Hey I’m coming up on week 8 of Veg, getting ready to switch to bloom. First grow ever. Is there a checklist of things that MUST BE DONE prior to switching? Or is it just “keep it simple” and change the actual light schedule? Are Trelis nets good to ahead and get? Also trying to control humility (mines is usually too high).. is it better to put dehumidifier inside the tent or just inside the room the tent sit in?

Time to lollipop the shit out of those babies! All that growth below the top 2 or 3 nodes on each branch will take away from the plants ability to maximize its bud production. How I usually do it... starting from the bottom, node 1(s) 2 branches, remove the first 3 nodes from those node 1 branches, nodes 2 and 3, remove the first 2 nodes from those node 2 and 3 branches, node 4 and if you have a node 5, remove the 1st node from those node 4 and 5, branches! Also how big are those pots, and how long have they been in those pots? If they are 3 or less gallons and the plants have been in them for 4+ weeks I would recommend that you up-pot the plants so they have plenty of room to grow all the roots they want during the flowering stretch! And as for dehumidifying, its always better to do that in the room the tent is in, that way you can still control the humidity in the tent if it gets to dry in the tent. What I usually do is set my dehumidifier that is in the room during flower to 45%, then in the tent I set my humidifier controller to 50% so the air in the tent always stays in the 45% to 50% RH range...

Looks like you got a few problems to sort out with the plant as well....

this^^^
Mg deficiency for sure
can't tell about tip burn from the photos
maybe too much N as well?

rkymtnman said:

this^^^
Mg deficiency for sure
can't tell about tip burn from the photos
maybe too much N as well?

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Looks like a watering problem as well....wonder if they are drowning the plant causing lockout?

rkymtnman said:

this^^^
Mg deficiency for sure
can't tell about tip burn from the photos
maybe too much N as well?

Click to expand...

I used some organic Neptune harvest like 1-2 times and it made my leaves look like that. First time grow I just asked a guy in a local hydroponics store and he recommended it.. immediately stopped use after seeing those changes. Waiting on Fox Farm Trio to arrive in the mail

piratebug said:

Time to lollipop the shit out of those babies! All that growth below the top 2 or 3 nodes on each branch will take away from the plants ability to maximize its bud production. How I usually do it... starting from the bottom, node 1(s) 2 branches, remove the first 3 nodes from those node 1 branches, nodes 2 and 3, remove the first 2 nodes from those node 2 and 3 branches, node 4 and if you have a node 5, remove the 1st node from those node 4 and 5, branches! Also how big are those pots, and how long have they been in those pots? If they are 3 or less gallons and the plants have been in them for 4+ weeks I would recommend that you up-pot the plants so they have plenty of room to grow all the roots they want during the flowering stretch! And as for dehumidifying, its always better to do that in the room the tent is in, that way you can still control the humidity in the tent if it gets to dry in the tent. What I usually do is set my dehumidifier that is in the room during flower to 45%, then in the tent I set my humidifier controller to 50% so the air in the tent always stays in the 45% to 50% RH range...

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I got you on the removing leaves part, how far will this set me back if I do it now? Doesn’t the plant need to recover a little if I do something like that? I also just recently put them in 3 gallon smart pots, roots already coming out the bottom... for future reference how early to start training the plant? Since I let the stuff just grow it looks like I should have been topping along the way... first time ever growing wasn’t aware of the steps needed in that early veg stage

RayGrowFlower said:

Hey I’m coming up on week 8 of Veg, getting ready to switch to bloom. First grow ever. Is there a checklist of things that MUST BE DONE prior to switching? Or is it just “keep it simple” and change the actual light schedule? Are Trelis nets good to ahead and get? Also trying to control humility (mines is usually too high).. is it better to put dehumidifier inside the tent or just inside the room the tent sit in? View attachment 4754984

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Its not looking happy. That plant is indica dominant and should be drinking lots. The humidity is way too high and you can tell that from the plant.

Based on the light I can guess your under led. And inwoukd bet your room is too cold. It should be cruising at about 26c and an rh of about 60-70. Thisnis probably the main cause of the nitrogen deficiency you are seeing.

I woukd want to correct these issues before going into flower

oill said:

Its not looking happy. That plant is indica dominant and should be drinking lots. The humidity is way too high and you can tell that from the plant.

Based on the light I can guess your under led. And inwoukd bet your room is too cold. It should be cruising at about 26c and an rh of about 60-70. Thisnis probably the main cause of the nitrogen deficiency you are seeing.

I woukd want to correct these issues before going into flower

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when you “correct” the issue does that mean I’ll see a change in leaves already on the plant or the new growth?

also when you say drinking a lot... how much water would you be running through 3 gallon smart pots? I’ve got a lot of people saying it looks overwatered.. first time grower I’ll take all the feedback

Also to add I’ve been growing out of FFOF Soil... outside of the 1-2 watering periods of Neptune’s Harvest (2-3-1) which seemed too strong for my plants so I discontinued... I’ve added no other nutes during the process. I just ordered fox farm trio over the weekend... what else should I be feeding my plant? I was reading that most of the nutrients needed would come from soil so I haven’t added any...now seeing how some see it’s a nute problem/ deficiency please guide me in the right direction

Id put them in much larger pots, especially since you say the roots are growing out the bottom, and they haveint been in the 3g pots long. Already took up the space. Plan ahead.

Also I myself never feed, at recommended doses. If it says 1 tblsp per gallon, I give it 1 tbsp per 5 gallons, and feed more often. Then slowly increase feed. Also agree about the magnesium deficiency, and at 2-3-1 the mix is grossly Potassium Deficient. Weed likes the same amount of Nitrogen as it does Phosphorus, and 2x the amount in Potassium. 1-1-2 Ratio. Magnesium is the most common container grown plant deficiency. Weed is very very hungry for Mg. Also loves Sulfur. Sulfur produces Terpenes, especially in late flowering.

. If theyre in 3g, Id put them in 10 gallon.

Leaf curl is a tell tale sign of over fertilization, or lockout.

How much I water depends on the Light Used, Temps, and if you have fans blowing. I like fans 24/7. Even when lights out, though I veg 24/7.

In a 5 gallon pot, Id give no more than 1 gallon of water depending on the texture, and water holding capacity of the soil. I mainly use Promix BX.

What Id do is get a cheap Lowes/Walmart Ligh-Moisture-PH Meter, and use it to determine exactly how wet/dry the container is. Ive used one for over 40 years. I dont need it now, but I still use it, as it takes all guess work out of it. I measure in several spots in the container, and well as towards the bottom/ via lower sides.

I never let the Needle get to the Dry Line, always to just above a fraction, and if it takes more than 3 days for a good size plant to dry out to the Low Moist area, its had to much water, and I will give slightly less next time, or more if it dries out to fast. I measure it everyday. Many times 2x just because.

In a 20 gallon container of Promix BX, under a 1000w Hortilus HPS, and a Super Silver haze we have, at its biggest intake, it uses 3.5 gallons of water every 3.5 days, at 82f-86f temps, and a stiff breeze 24/7. With heavier soil, expect slower use/evaporation times. Probably water less. But keep the no more than 3.5 days watering schedule.

Its also a MYTH to cut back Nitrogen in flowering.

Say one has an 8 weeks flowering strain.

The plant needs more of Everything during flowering, as this is when it will have its largest Biomass Growth Spurt.

All Nitrogen is, is Protein. Humans eat Chicken, Fish, Beef ect, and our bodies turn it into Nitrogen. Plants just skip the breaking down phase. Would a Bodybuilder limit Protein if trying to Grow?? No, its not logical.

At 2.5 weeks- week 4 the plant generally like a 0-52-34 Mono Potassium Phosphate Boost, along with slowly increasing amounts of Base fertilizer. And Magnesium. I like Epsom Salts, as it also supplies Sulfur...

In week 5-6 MPK is stopped, and in weeks 5-6 the Magnesium is increased, with small increases of base fert.

In weeks 7-8 fert is decreased 40%-60% but not totally stopped. Flushing is a myth.

Also make sure you have the best air flow, and ventilation possible. Remember the less light, the less water, and food the plants will use. Weed gets strong light in nature. Think how powerful the sun is in Equador, in the Andes Mountains, at 8000 feet???? More light also equals more air flow needed.

What light(s) are you using???
How far away??
What are temps??
One also has to watch when you use soil that already has fertilizer in it, and then one starts adding in other fertilizer, and completely upset the balance of the soil, and causes all kinds of unneeded complications.

Other than living organic soil, I myself like to use the same fert in the soil, and also in my tea(s). If Im doing Organic.

Forget the bottled stuff.

I myself like

Peruvian Seabird Guano. Both the Flowering Formula, and Veg
Azomite
Kelp powder North Atlantic. Ascophyllum Nodosum
Oyster Shells
Crab Meal
Biochar
Sphagnum Moss
Calcitic Lime
Dolomitic Lime
2/3 Calcite x 1/3 Dolomite
Perlite
Vermiculite
Potassium Sulfate 0-0-52
Clackamass Coot Compost

I veg in 5 gallon containers, and transplant into 20 gallon for flowering Sativa. 1-2 per light... Hardcore Indicas Id use 10 gallon, and run 4 per 1000w Hortilux, and 600w-650w LED ( We have Gavita 645w 1700e ) using only the best Samsung/Osram Diodes. Heavy duty Sativas Id do 1- 2 per light Bent Over. I never top, and rely on the stretch of the plant to fill in space. This reduces veg time if they stretch 3x-6x in flowering. I want only plants the stretch alot, and huge production. If a single plant vegged 60 days under 1000w Hortilux, and flowered in 20G soil cant produce at LEAST 16oz, we wont use it. We start all seedlings, and put rooted clones under 1000w-Gavita 1700e. While rooting clones, we uuse the light off to the sides of the more powerful lights. We keep them 6 or more4 feet away to keep out of bright light.

The plants you have look like they have a very stiff stem, and wouldnt like to be Bent,,,. If you did bend them, they would need to be started as early as small seedling, or cutting, before the stem is to stiff. Many stems will snap like a pencil.
Your plant looks like it has really good side branching. If you get the feeding ect figured out, and assuming you have really strong light, that should be a pretty good plant for its type structurally.

I would probably take out some if the Inner Facing Leaves, but otherwise leave it alone as fas as taking out leaves. Its already under an unknown stress. No use adding possible injury, to insult.

jimihendrix1 said:

What light(s) are you using???
How far away??
What are temps??
One also has to watch when you use soil that already has fertilizer in it, and then one starts adding in other fertilizer, and completely upset the balance of the soil, and causes all kinds of unneeded complications.

Other than living organic soil, I myself like to use the same fert in the soil, and also in my tea(s). If Im doing Organic.

Forget the bottled stuff.

I myself like

Peruvian Seabird Guano. Both the Flowering Formula, and Veg
Azomite
Kelp powder North Atlantic. Ascophyllum Nodosum
Oyster Shells
Crab Meal
Biochar
Sphagnum Moss
Calcitic Lime
Dolomitic Lime
2/3 Calcite x 1/3 Dolomite
Perlite
Vermiculite
Potassium Sulfate 0-0-52
Clackamass Coot Compost

I veg in 5 gallon containers, and transplant into 20 gallon for flowering Sativa. 1-2 per light... Hardcore Indicas Id use 10 gallon, and run 4 per 1000w Hortilux, and 600w-650w LED ( We have Gavita 645w 1700e ) using only the best Samsung/Osram Diodes. Heavy duty Sativas Id do 1- 2 per light Bent Over. I never top, and rely on the stretch of the plant to fill in space. This reduces veg time if they stretch 3x-6x in flowering. I want only plants the stretch alot, and huge production. If a single plant vegged 60 days under 1000w Hortilux, and flowered in 20G soil cant produce at LEAST 16oz, we wont use it. We start all seedlings, and put rooted clones under 1000w-Gavita 1700e. While rooting clones, we uuse the light off to the sides of the more powerful lights. We keep them 6 or more4 feet away to keep out of bright light.

The plants you have look like they have a very stiff stem, and wouldnt like to be Bent,,,. If you did bend them, they would need to be started as early as small seedling, or cutting, before the stem is to stiff. Many stems will snap like a pencil.
Your plant looks like it has really good side branching. If you get the feeding ect figured out, and assuming you have really strong light, that should be a pretty good plant for its type structurally.

I would probably take out some if the Inner Facing Leaves, but otherwise leave it alone as fas as taking out leaves. Its already under an unknown stress. No use adding possible injury, to insult.

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I’m using Viparspectra Pro Series P1000. I keep the lights about 16-20inch from the canopy... now you sound like you have a huge scale production I’m just doing this for personal use, so would those 20 galling pots be necessary? I only have a 3x3x6 tent so it seems like it would eat up all my space. My room temp fluctuates from 65-75 degrees, RH is a problem for me trying to get that under control before switching it’s been around 70% but I ordered a dehumidifier to get that down.

Do you use Cal Mag? I’ve seen many say I have a magnesium issue.

I just potted up to 5 gallon today

We only use 3 lights for flowering and 2 for Vegging. I wouldnt call that a big operation. Im in an unfriendly state, so we worry about plant counts, and grow them as big as possible, to get the most out of them. Not a big operation. Just going for max production, with minimum plants. 2-4 plants per 1000w HID. 10g-20g containers.

Your P1000 is only consuming 100w. For 1 you need a much better light.

For a 3 x 3 area, you need at least 370w of the best LED Diodes you can get which are Samsung, and Osram. With your light id have it 5 inches from the top.

You also need to get the temps way up. At least 78f, and no less. Id not let them go below 76f when lights are out. 80f-82f would be even better when lights are on.

Dont forget Air Flow. They need fresh air/oxygen to get a steady supply of CO2. All you can give them.

But your temps are to low, and if you feed at full strength, you will burn them.
You need a better light. 370w for a 3 x 3.. 610-650w for a 4 x 4. If you use different diodes than Samsung/Osram, youll have to use more electricity as they arent as efficient.

jimihendrix1 said:

We only use 3 lights for flowering and 2 for Vegging. I wouldnt call that a big operation. Im in an unfriendly state, so we worry about plant counts, and grow them as big as possible, to get the most out of them. Not a big operation. Just going for max production, with minimum plants. 2-4 plants per 1000w HID. 10g-20g containers.

Your P1000 is only consuming 100w. For 1 you need a much better light.

For a 3 x 3 area, you need at least 370w of the best LED Diodes you can get which are Samsung, and Osram. With your light id have it 5 inches from the top.

You also need to get the temps way up. At least 78f, and no less. Id not let them go below 76f when lights are out. 80f-82f would be even better when lights are on.

Dont forget Air Flow. They need fresh air/oxygen to get a steady supply of CO2. All you can give them.

But your temps are to low, and if you feed at full strength, you will burn them.
You need a better light. 370w for a 3 x 3.. 610-650w for a 4 x 4. If you use different diodes than Samsung/Osram, youll have to use more electricity as they arent as efficient.

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thanks for all that info man! I’m in a unfriendly state myself so I’m trying to keep it all low key too. How much does 370w drawing on that light bill? Lol I actually have 2 of the P1000 side by side. I started off with a light that even worse and the change to this one just made my growth take off...

I definitely have a way to keep those temps ups, I was misinformed about the room temp smh listening to someone else

Im also into like week 7/8 of veg how much time do I really have to correct the problems before I start to worry about the plants getting too big?

I doubt those plants will stretch a whole lot, so for now, Id just worry about correcting known problems.

If youre worried about the electric/Cops?? Forget about it. A 1000w HID uses less electric than a 1200w- 1500w Space Heater.

How much does the 100w raise your bill?? Multiply that by 3.7, or 4.

Always remember, for now one needs 40.3w Sq/Ft to equal an HID Single Ended Lamp. and the Diodes for now, must be Samsung, and Osram. Forget anything else.

If you dont make an LED yourself, HGL probably is the easiest solution. Others here know better than I. Ive got a Gavita 1700e for a 4 x 4 area. HLG Equal is the 650R, though Im mainly an HID guy. You could also get a 600w Hortiulux HPS, and will also give Heat. Is perfect for a 3 x 3. Also cheaper.

HID-Single Ended for best results needs 62.5w Sq/ft. 600w Hortilux supplies 66w sq/ft in 3 x 3.
Hortilux makes the highest umol HPS bulbs. Run them at 18-24 inches. 18 is probably good for the 600w. Start at 24, and slowly lower. Structurally it looks like some nice plants there. Good side branching, especially considering they could use more light, and warmer temps. They could do well if sorted out, and blasted with strong light.

RayGrowFlower said:

I’m using Viparspectra Pro Series P1000. I keep the lights about 16-20inch from the canopy... now you sound like you have a huge scale production I’m just doing this for personal use, so would those 20 galling pots be necessary? I only have a 3x3x6 tent so it seems like it would eat up all my space. My room temp fluctuates from 65-75 degrees, RH is a problem for me trying to get that under control before switching it’s been around 70% but I ordered a dehumidifier to get that down.

Do you use Cal Mag? I’ve seen many say I have a magnesium issue.

I just potted up to 5 gallon today

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Its too cold... too cold too cold. 26c day and 21 night especially for that indica