T5 Light Setup Help Please

Widow Maker

Widow Maker

Well-Known Member
Notice how quickly the bud density drops off just a couple of inches from the top of his plant. That kinda proves my point. Light penitration is key. I bet this guy gets half the weight or less that I would in the same area. Not trying to diss the guys grow. It looks nice for what it is. And I'm sure the smoke was killer. But if you can't get that perfect shade of led's to hit the leaf what good is it?
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
^^^^^ hahaha you have no clue bro sorry. Intensity is measured in lumens. Not par. intensity is irrelevant of you have enough par. Those buds were under t5. The first pic was tops only. The 2nd pics were lower branches. If you want to talk about lumens. Cree and osram leds produce more lumens per watt than any hps. 2 330w cmh's that have only 33,000 lumens and 93 cri out perform a 1000 watt at 145,000 lumens with 35 cri.. Under hps those same strains, had less trichs and buds tapered more . The amount of trichs depends on genetics. Those pics were from 3 years ago. I no longer run those strains. I have in flower cheese og, cheese berry kush. In veg 9lb. Hammer, quantum kush, dire wolf, plush berry, Jesus og x Scotts og, and mulanjie gold x jolly bean and cheese og.
 
BenFranklin

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
It's not about light so much as it's about intensity of light where light is delivered to the bud site.


t5's would be great for a sea of green popsicle bud situation. Once your plants got a foot tall, the t5's would be rendered all but useless. In most cases.
 
JohnnySocko

JohnnySocko

Active Member
I've said this in several threads: often a lower intensity of light will yield a larger foliage surface area....
this is why given the right variables, T5's makes for some pretty looking foliage..
...again there is curve/point of diminishing returns with this phenom, but whatever....

All I know is a 4x54 T5 runs at about 220W and is plenty enough light to veg out 4-6 plants before sticking them under a 600W HID
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
I've grown 4 foot plants under t5's pulled a 4-5 zips each of rock hard big buds. Intensity doesn't mean shit if you have enough par / pff. If lights have high cri. Then high par numbers aren't as important. Hps has very poor cri.

you guys need to learn how light works and how pigments absorb specific wavelengths. If you also have 660nm / 730nm that creates emmerson effect increasing energy of chlorophyll b. 660nm increases flower size and 730nm / 760nm IR will make buds very dense regardless of light source. 550nm green light drives photosynthesis by helping pigments absorb more photons in other regions. Yes plants absorb green light

having more leaves is not a bad thing. More leaves and larger the leaves the larger the buds
 
Widow Maker

Widow Maker

Well-Known Member
hyroot said:
^^^^^ hahaha you have no clue bro sorry. Intensity is measured in lumens. Not par. intensity is irrelevant of you have enough par. Those buds were under t5. The first pic was tops only. The 2nd pics were lower branches. If you want to talk about lumens. Cree and osram leds produce more lumens per watt than any hps. 2 330w cmh's that have only 33,000 lumens and 93 cri out perform a 1000 watt at 145,000 lumens with 35 cri.. Under hps those same strains, had less trichs and buds tapered more . The amount of trichs depends on genetics. Those pics were from 3 years ago. I no longer run those strains. I have in flower cheese og, cheese berry kush. In veg 9lb. Hammer, quantum kush, dire wolf, plush berry, Jesus og x Scotts og, and mulanjie gold x jolly bean and cheese og.
Click to expand...

Not too sure what your even saying? What is par? I never mentioned par? All I hear is nonsence. Excuses that they were grown under t5. Exactly what I was saying and the op was wanting to use. Correct?

As far as led's this is what I think. It's an awesome new technology. Until there is a standard color I'm not going to show much faith in the technology. The companies that have studied up are going to cost a fortune. So how much is this 330w led? $1500? You think this kid can afford that with his tent? I have a cree led on my saiga 12 guage. That all its good for. Being sarcastic. Another thing is the trics are a form of sunblock. I don't see catching a sun burn from an led. All my strains are frosty as fuck. I guess you have a bad strain. Sorry. I have sold and played with most everything out there. So I do have a clue. Show us a picture you did with t5s, leds or both that looks better and heavier than my shit and I will listen to you. You might know how to read a bulb box but you don't have a clue how to grow dank.
 
BenFranklin

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
A quick gander at hyroot's grow journals will answer why i put that Flo/led troller on ignore.... These lights have their advantges in certain situations admittedly, however the smoke coming out of these folks asses is far more prevalent than the bud that they're getting from those shitty kiddy lights.
 
BenFranklin

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
Precisely my complaint Widow Maker, its hard and expensive enough for people to learn how to do this, without folks like hyroot spreading bullshit.
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Par photosynthetically available / active radiation - number of photons (umole/s) the sun at mid day is 2000 umole/s

cri color rendering index. The higher the cri the more even the spectral distribution and better the results.

its takes about 600w of quality led to match a 1000w hps. There are so many shady low quality china direct rebranded leds.

there's is a few high quality led's that kickass. Area 51 led , apache tech (nasa , universities and ed Rosenthal use) and Hans led.

the top leds are Cree , Nichia then osram. Area51 use Cree, apache use Nichia, and Hans uses Cree and osram. All the cheap shirt leds use epiled and epistar. I have area 51. That cost a little under $500 for 155 watt that out performs a 400w hps and covers a 3x3. It puts out more par than a 600hps and has a cri of 80. Most hps have a cri of 35. Then my light has a life time limited warranty. Full coverage for 3 years then 50% of the cost for life. And upgradeable for 50%. Apache and Hans just have 3 year full warranty.

I also have inda gro 420's with led pontoons. Each combo was 1
$1500 and 460 watts each and covers a 5x5. A 10 year full warranty. Bulbs only spectral degrade 10% and start degrading after 7 years. One year of electrical savings pays for the light itself.. Has 800 umole/s at 18 inches away and cri of 95.
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
^^^^ an example of another uneducated ignorant hater.


just helping the op who doesn't want to run hps due to heat and electrical costs. You led haters take shit so personal.

take the knowledge or don't . No sweat off my back. I prefer to help people and send them in the right direction and not give bad advice like alot of others do.

I can post links on studies from universities with scientist with phd's not random stoners if that will help
 
Widow Maker

Widow Maker

Well-Known Member
hyroot said:
Par photosynthetically available / active radiation - number of photons (umole/s) the sun at mid day is 2000 umole/s

cri color rendering index. The higher the cri the more even the spectral distribution and better the results.

its takes about 600w of quality led to match a 1000w hps. There are so many shady low quality china direct rebranded leds.

there's is a few high quality led's that kickass. Area 51 led , apache tech (nasa , universities and ed Rosenthal use) and Hans led.

the top leds are Cree , Nichia then osram. Area51 use Cree, apache use Nichia, and Hans uses Cree and osram. All the cheap shirt leds use epiled and epistar. I have area 51. That cost a little under $500 for 155 watt that out performs a 400w hps and covers a 3x3. It puts out more par than a 600hps and has a cri of 80. Most hps have a cri of 35. Then my light has a life time limited warranty. Full coverage for 3 years then 50% of the cost for life. And upgradeable for 50%. Apache and Hans just have 3 year full warranty.

I also have inda gro 420's with led pontoons. Each combo was 1
$1500 and 460 watts each and covers a 5x5. A 10 year full warranty. Bulbs only spectral degrade 10% and start degrading after 7 years. One year of electrical savings pays for the light itself.. Has 800 umole/s at 18 inches away and cri of 95.
Click to expand...

Thank you for teaching me about metering light. I'm not a hater I just don't believe from experience that leds are worthy. They are getting better all the time. That's why I said put up or shut up. Talk all the high tech stuff you want. Till I see results it's just talk. In the racing world we call that bench racing.

So with all that out of the way I'm going say this to Op. You can get t5s or expensive leds and grow some pretty ok bud. And it will stay cool and could be a lot easier. But if you want the kill bud you have to make sacrifices and deal with heat.
 
L

levibeyond

Member
hmm cheers hyroot the led is definately interesting especially for the wattage used but i think it still needs some more research from growers ones more experienced than me with non at all :)
It gets a little too complicated for me your links provided just seem to prove that for me, its also a little high price wise for my budget i'm looking at around £200 at most for a full veg setup inc tent to begin with.

The wattage is definately something i would be interested with though (I'm a tight arse where money is concerned lol)

On reflection i should probably go down the hid route to begin with for sure as there's less room for error/complications on my part avoiding the obvious mistakes, also more people use these so its easier to find solutions for any problems i might encounter,

That being said i wont be ruling out Led/T5 for vegging once i become more experienced, Once i've built some savings back up i might do a comparative grow with 2 different veg tents using hid and led then flowering in the same tent under hids as research to see what weight/taste difference i get, Maybe somebody is already doing this and i haven't found the post yet?

I've done some research today electricity wise and seem to have got around a lot of the cost involved with the lights by getting a suitable electricity tariff
(economy 7) for those interested and in the UK, basically it costs me far less to run my lights for 7 hours at night which allows for more than 50% of my flower period.
I've also found a supplier who's cheaper during the day than i've been paying for the full 24 hours (when i've done the figures id easily estimate a £400 - £500 per year saving when i factor in the cost of running lights for both tents on my current tariff) it pays to do your research :)

Thanks for all the replies though it definately gave me an interesting read and something to think about especially as people swear by so many different methods (maybe there is no wrong way it just depends on preference/experience/taste)

Ill definately come across a number of different problems with a no of different ways though so I'm sure I'll cause another argument in another post :)
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Go to the led section plenty of people pulling dank weight
green genes pulled 503 grams in a 4x4 with small plants with an apache at660

captain Morgan pulled 7 zips off one plant using 200w of house hold crees from home depot.

plenty of people pulling 1.5-2 gpw with Hans panels. And people pulling a pound or close too with 310 watts of a51 led.

don't be afraid to look.. I pulled about 3 zips a plant off my last batch with induction /led those were 2 foot plants. Mine now are at day 11 of flower and 4 feet tall except one main liner. Since I switched to a vegan organic grow. My plants have been doi g much better too.
 
BenFranklin

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
Hyroot was challenged to provide links to a 1 lb grow under LED's, with actual proof, not just somebody making claims of superior harvests, that was 2 months ago, were still waiting.

hyroot is also a member of LED United, if you look the group was started several years ago, with bragging that people were going to show their huge LED Grows and they even have beautiful pictures of beautifully started plants.... And then, nothing....

We want PROOF, NOT MORE BULLSHIT!
 
Widow Maker

Widow Maker

Well-Known Member
I'm gonna take a step and publicly apologize. I apologize Hyroot. I often see thing closed minded when it comes to this shit. 22 years growing I'm set in my way. Leds are badass but I personally don't believe they have figured it out yet. And not to mention they give me a head ache. Anyways this got heated up pretty quick. It wasn't my intentions but you got a little upset with me picking apart your grow. You lashed, I lashed and here we are. I think we need people like you that are thinking outside the box. I don't want to see you not help someone cause someone like me pissed you off. So I'm sorry bro.
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
levibeyond said:
hmm cheers hyroot the led is definately interesting especially for the wattage used but i think it still needs some more research from growers ones more experienced than me with non at all :)
It gets a little too complicated for me your links provided just seem to prove that for me, its also a little high price wise for my budget i'm looking at around £200 at most for a full veg setup inc tent to begin with.

The wattage is definately something i would be interested with though (I'm a tight arse where money is concerned lol)

On reflection i should probably go down the hid route to begin with for sure as there's less room for error/complications on my part avoiding the obvious mistakes, also more people use these so its easier to find solutions for any problems i might encounter,

That being said i wont be ruling out Led/T5 for vegging once i become more experienced, Once i've built some savings back up i might do a comparative grow with 2 different veg tents using hid and led then flowering in the same tent under hids as research to see what weight/taste difference i get, Maybe somebody is already doing this and i haven't found the post yet?

I've done some research today electricity wise and seem to have got around a lot of the cost involved with the lights by getting a suitable electricity tariff
(economy 7) for those interested and in the UK, basically it costs me far less to run my lights for 7 hours at night which allows for more than 50% of my flower period.
I've also found a supplier who's cheaper during the day than i've been paying for the full 24 hours (when i've done the figures id easily estimate a £400 - £500 per year saving when i factor in the cost of running lights for both tents on my current tariff) it pays to do your research :)

Thanks for all the replies though it definately gave me an interesting read and something to think about especially as people swear by so many different methods (maybe there is no wrong way it just depends on preference/experience/taste)

Ill definately come across a number of different problems with a no of different ways though so I'm sure I'll cause another argument in another post :)
Click to expand...
that's why said Hans panels. They are $240 each U.S. That less than 200 £. With t5 I found best results are using htg agro max 5400 k , uvl redsun and zoo med flora sun bulbs. Being in the UK you might have better access to Sylvania and Hagen t5's which are great. They don't sell in the U.S. And have to be special ordered. Zoomed and uvl come from Germany. I think the agromax comes from china. Its actually illegal to produce flourescents in the U.S. Thanks to jp Morgan and the EPA. They all come from Europe and china.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top