Tags High Efficiency Lighting Garden

peoples

Well-Known Member

SCARHOLE

Well-Known Member
Love how your working old superskunk lines.
And the par tests , whoooot!

I have used Pam's outdoor here guerrilla growin for yrs.
its hella hot here.
Tried big polymers, small ones an starch based organic ones.


never seen the liquid yet? Interesting.


They really seem to help outdoors for me.
no bad taste , safe for home gardens an weed.


Mulching the top of the to prevent evaporation also really helped.
it may help roots moisture the same ways the PAM'S do?
 

djwimbo

Well-Known Member
Really good stuff Tagsy!
That 660 is a beast!

On the top of your head, what do you recon the read would be for a 1000w HID at 24" ?
Why not test 12" ? =)

Btw, instead of buying the deep red extension for the Pontoon for 800$, how about buying 10 of these?:
http://www.diamond-grow-lights.com/illumitex-LED-Mini-Grow-Light/Mini-Grow-Light-1-#189;-x-1-#189;-16x-660-nm-Deep-Red-Spectrum-Illumitex~TM~-Horticulture-LEDs-for-supplemental-use::182.html?XTCsid=if0sit824pjv8jsk5457uv4ms1
You just unintentionally found me an affordable 730nm solution, thank you.

I'd jump on the bandwagon of pontoons if I had an IndaGro, but since I don't... next best thing.
 

chazbolin

Well-Known Member
I know Tags has disagreed me with on this but there are actually LED Grow Light Mfg's out there that are not satisfied with the current way of measuring a grow lights spectral output relative to plant net action absorption spectra.

http://gardenandgreenhouse.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1604:efficient-gardening-stumping-light-meters-with-efficiency&catid=138:july-august-2013&Itemid=18

I have proposed that if one is to rely on a number that advertises light output as opposed to, or conjunction with, a spectral distribution graph, it be given in 3 separate values, like N-P-K, which would indicate the energy emitted in the 380-520 (veg), 520-610 (carotenoid) and 610-720 (flowering) regions. Just putting up a lumen or uMole number higher than the competitor's is not going to propel the technology forth as it is not giving the big picture relative to plant response. In an attempt to beat back HID it is going to take a different type of approach where an informed consumer will be able to tell what the real overall differences in the technologies represent to their gardens. At least there is one LED mfg out there who happens to agree with me.
 

HeartlandHank

Well-Known Member
This is what happens when I get new lights and a par meter, plus a whole day off work. An extravagant at home test. I got super irie and had a blast. My GF thinks I am crazy.

I took 4 measurements(in umol) from each parameter(1x1,2x2,...) and averaged them for each parameter, along with a center peak reading. I don't know how to make a footprint graph like growers house, but this way still gets the point across.

AT660 @24"

Center: 1637umol
2x2 avg:1058.75umol
4x4 avg: 293umol

AT660 @36"
Center: 1056umol
2x2 avg: 803umol
4x4 avg: 301.5umol

AT200 @18"
Center: 1208umol
1x1 avg:728.75umol
2x2 avg: 261umol
3x3 avg: 68.5umol

AT200 @24"
Center: 792umol
1x1 avg: 570.75umol
2x2 avg: 269.75umol
3x3 avg: 98.25umol

All that was very tedious and took a long time. But it was fun and let me play with my meter and new lights. I will get them hung up over the jilly's that are still going and do field test measurements soon. I can't wait to test all my lighting systems and others that I can get my hands on.
So, the reading in the center is quite a bit stronger than it is on the perimeter?

Also, what is the difference between PAR and umol?

The difference between the center and the perimeter seem SHARP.

Also, I can't seem to find this thing for sale anywhere. It's the AT660R2?

I see the Apache Tech 120 all over... no 660..
 

Beefbisquit

Well-Known Member
So, the reading in the center is quite a bit stronger than it is on the perimeter?

Also, is Umol a better way to measure than PAR? Is there a relation between to the two?
Micromols in this case, are measuring the amount of photons within the PAR range, that hit in a given area.
 

chazbolin

Well-Known Member
The term Mole, also known as Avegrados number, is used because it represents a standard large number that is often used in physics. When we're dealing with measuring tiny photons ofpure energy, no mass, it is broken down in uMoles or a millionth of a Mole. How many of these photons with wavelengths between 400-700 nanometers striking the surface of the sensor every second will read as uMoles or the number of photons per meter squared per second, or photosynthetic photon flux density (PPFD).
 

PICOGRAV

Well-Known Member
This is what happens when I get new lights and a par meter, plus a whole day off work. An extravagant at home test. I got super irie and had a blast. My GF thinks I am crazy.
[video=youtube_share;DwDw5FfpaDc]http://youtu.be/DwDw5FfpaDc[/video]

I took 4 measurements(in umol) from each parameter(1x1,2x2,...) and averaged them for each parameter, along with a center peak reading. I don't know how to make a footprint graph like growers house, but this way still gets the point across.

AT660 @24"

Center: 1637umol
2x2 avg:1058.75umol
4x4 avg: 293umol

AT660 @36"
Center: 1056umol
2x2 avg: 803umol
4x4 avg: 301.5umol

AT200 @18"
Center: 1208umol
1x1 avg:728.75umol
2x2 avg: 261umol
3x3 avg: 68.5umol

AT200 @24"
Center: 792umol
1x1 avg: 570.75umol
2x2 avg: 269.75umol
3x3 avg: 98.25umol

All that was very tedious and took a long time. But it was fun and let me play with my meter and new lights. I will get them hung up over the jilly's that are still going and do field test measurements soon. I can't wait to test all my lighting systems and others that I can get my hands on.
The term Mole, also known as Avegrados number, is used because it represents a standard large number that is often used in physics. When we're dealing with measuring tiny photons ofpure energy, no mass, it is broken down in uMoles or a millionth of a Mole. How many of these photons with wavelengths between 400-700 nanometers striking the surface of the sensor every second will read as uMoles or the number of photons per meter squared per second, or photosynthetic photon flux density (PPFD).
Tags, can you tell me, or translate the readings from this thing, to your measurement device? What is it measuring, lumen, or I think you said Par output? Where do you get them and how much?

IMG_2454.jpg
 

tags420

Well-Known Member
Really good stuff Tagsy!
That 660 is a beast!

On the top of your head, what do you recon the read would be for a 1000w HID at 24" ?
Why not test 12" ? =)

Btw, instead of buying the deep red extension for the Pontoon for 800$, how about buying 10 of these?:
http://www.diamond-grow-lights.com/illumitex-LED-Mini-Grow-Light/Mini-Grow-Light-1-#189;-x-1-#189;-16x-660-nm-Deep-Red-Spectrum-Illumitex~TM~-Horticulture-LEDs-for-supplemental-use::182.html?XTCsid=if0sit824pjv8jsk5457uv4ms1
1000w hps in a standard hood with a lumitex ballast and a eye hortilux super hps does 888umols at the center and about 330 on the 4x4 parimeter.

AT660@24" vs. 1000w hps@24"
Center: 1637umol Center:890umol
2x2:1058.75umol 2x2:685umol
4x4 :293umol 4x4:330umol

I would much rather have the 660 after looking at those numbers.

And no 12" because no one runs them that low. I don't want or need to quote some numbers that no one will really see/use just to seem powerful. The numbers @18"-24" are still better almost everyone else @12".

I know Tags has disagreed me with on this but there are actually LED Grow Light Mfg's out there that are not satisfied with the current way of measuring a grow lights spectral output relative to plant net action absorption spectra.

http://gardenandgreenhouse.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1604:efficient-gardening-stumping-light-meters-with-efficiency&catid=138:july-august-2013&Itemid=18

I have proposed that if one is to rely on a number that advertises light output as opposed to, or conjunction with, a spectral distribution graph, it be given in 3 separate values, like N-P-K, which would indicate the energy emitted in the 380-520 (veg), 520-610 (carotenoid) and 610-720 (flowering) regions. Just putting up a lumen or uMole number higher than the competitor's is not going to propel the technology forth as it is not giving the big picture relative to plant response. In an attempt to beat back HID it is going to take a different type of approach where an informed consumer will be able to tell what the real overall differences in the technologies represent to their gardens. At least there is one LED mfg out there who happens to agree with me.
You and I will never see it quite the same but breaking up PAR(400nm-700nm) is something I could possibly see. My point is that 400-700 is the main and most responsive to plant grow. You can use only white diodes and grow great...but if you used all 730's, well I doubt it would be very good. Even all 630 wold have a better shot...and that is becasue it is within par light imo. I look at the IR and UV as boosters that are not completely necessary(doesn't mean they aren't good or I don't want them).
I have said it before and will say it again...you are trying to measure 2 thing in 1...spectrum and intensity. You are right that you need to pay attention to both for sure. I just don't see/think that a weighted or custom measurement system is best to do it. If there was a 100% knowledge of what wavelengths are best in what ratios and all that, but till there is a definitive best...your way will have the same/similar flaws lumens do.

But do I get your point...1umol from a good spectrum will/can cause more photosynthesis than 1umol from hps with their bad spectrum. Kinda like when I say a watt is not always the same. Led's get more umols out of a watt than hps...just like an IG makes the most out of a slightly lower par output because it has a really good and efficient spectrum.

So, the reading in the center is quite a bit stronger than it is on the perimeter?

Also, what is the difference between PAR and umol?

The difference between the center and the perimeter seem SHARP.

Also, I can't seem to find this thing for sale anywhere. It's the AT660R2?

I see the Apache Tech 120 all over... no 660..
The AT660 and the AT200 are new and were just released and are not up on the website. If you are interested you can call apache and ask/preorder, but they should be ready for everyone within a week or so.
Some of the other guys explained it well but...Par is all the light between 400nm-700nm and all wavelengths are measure equally...and the reading is in umol...or micromoles. So 1000 par means that there is a 1000 micromoles(umol) of photos falling on the sensor every second.

You are looking at the illumitex. They do a nice job at making an even coverage, but they have no power(comarped to hps or other good led's). They(illumitex) have a new model coming out in october that will be $3000+ to cover a 4x4 with 800w yet it only does >850umol@12 and then they tell you to hang it @18" so the power at operating height is very low. The current model that is out that you are referring too does about 400umol@12". Illumitex has great ideas and concepts...but there output performance is still too weak for MJ growers.

It seems like there is a drop off with the at660, but when you look at what 1000w hps do, or any hps, you will see that the at660 is still a lot better in the center and most of the whole area, and still basically the same at the parameter of max coverage. And the with a perfect growth spectrum being put out by the led, all the light being emitted is processed and used better by the plants than the hps.

Tags, can you tell me, or translate the readings from this thing, to your measurement device? What is it measuring, lumen, or I think you said Par output? Where do you get them and how much?

View attachment 2788302
Lumens are for humans. That device measure lumens and some other things that, I and plants, don't use. I don't know the conversion from lumens to PAR...and I don't think there is a truly accurate way to do it without the exact output of every wavelength your light puts out.
 

HeartlandHank

Well-Known Member
Tags, thank you so much for sharing your experience/knowledge with this stuff. I can grow some plants... but when it comes to LED I don't know a damn thing.

I was just wondering... i see in that youtube video (AT660R2) that you used the all white leds... Any reason for that? Just reading what they have to say about the difference on their page, it sounds like the Red Blue mix would be the way to go. no?

Thank you for schooling me on the illumitex... I could tell that it was a quality piece of equipment but I did not know much beyond that. I'll take your word on its lack of output. I appreciate that very much.

I'm looking to pick up either 1 light to go inline, between 2 600hps over a total 3x9. like so...
(hps) (led) (hps)

And/or, 2 leds to go with 2 600 hps over a 6x6. like so...
(hps) (led)

(led) (hps)

Any thoughts you have on that would be much appreciated.

The Apache 660 looks very appealing. Something more like a 400 would be better for my situation, but, that's life..
 

HeartlandHank

Well-Known Member
I'm getting excited now... I've been looking into LED's on and off for a while. I have not felt like I was on the right track to getting the right equipment. It appears as though I have taken a turn after being led to this thread. With a little more confidence I'll surely pull the trigger.

I gave Apache a call. No answer, but I'm looking forward to a chat about what they have to offer when they have time.

My hope is that the AT200 is comparable to a 600. While I would LOVE to pickup multiple 660's to mix in with HPS.. I'm limited by available amps... I have some math to do... if I have the space, 2 660s sounds great in a setup like...
(hps) (led)

(led) (hps)

I have genetics that I have grown for quite some time. I know what they produce with my style of growth, per 600 hps. One plant specifically (Green Crack) literally yields the same every crop within 1/4 oz per 600hps or within a couple grams per plant...
Assuming there is not an LED learning curve that i could trip up on... With one grow I could answer that question, for myself... can an LED perform on the HPS level?
 

HeartlandHank

Well-Known Member
It seems like there is a drop off with the at660, but when you look at what 1000w hps do, or any hps, you will see that the at660 is still a lot better in the center and most of the whole area, and still basically the same at the parameter of max coverage. And the with a perfect growth spectrum being put out by the led, all the light being emitted is processed and used better by the plants than the hps.
.
This is where an LED learning curve could come in... With hps... I have always taken advantage of the arc shaped intensity coming from the bulb.
When you measure at different points (center, corner, left, right) on a flat surface... the intensity drops significantly as you move from the center... However, you move closer to the bulb from the corner and the intensity jumps..
Using training techniques/managing the canopy I have learned to get as much from the bulb as possible, by bringing the growth to the intensity... Around every 600hps, I keep a bowl shaped canopy around the light to work around the arc shape of intensity coming off the bulb... Basically. Perimeter plants/growth is nearly level with the reflector... center plants/growth about 16in under the bulb. Stadium sort of idea... but small and horizontal.

With LED, this will be different... I think? I guess it really varies from unit to unit. Unlike a standard bulb, different units will have different shapes of intensity.

If that makes sense...
 

tags420

Well-Known Member
I'm getting excited now... I've been looking into LED's on and off for a while. I have not felt like I was on the right track to getting the right equipment. It appears as though I have taken a turn after being led to this thread. With a little more confidence I'll surely pull the trigger.

I gave Apache a call. No answer, but I'm looking forward to a chat about what they have to offer when they have time.

My hope is that the AT200 is comparable to a 600. While I would LOVE to pickup multiple 660's to mix in with HPS.. I'm limited by available amps... I have some math to do... if I have the space, 2 660s sounds great in a setup like...
(hps) (led)

(led) (hps)

I have genetics that I have grown for quite some time. I know what they produce with my style of growth, per 600 hps. One plant specifically (Green Crack) literally yields the same every crop within 1/4 oz per 600hps or within a couple grams per plant...
Assuming there is not an LED learning curve that i could trip up on... With one grow I could answer that question, for myself... can an LED perform on the HPS level?
Glad I and everyone else on here could help. There is just so much out there and we are all still learning.

Hell yes LED's can perform and outperform hps.

I know that he(apache) is really busy these last few weeks with paperwork and legal shit so that's probably why he's hard to reach lately.

The apaches are not all white...3white:2red. Whites led are the future/present. When you see a spectrum graph of a white you will see that for cool whites it's mostly a blue peak with a smaller red peak...or for warm whites it's mostly a red peak with a smaller blue peak. So though it is white to us humans, the plants are seeing exactly what they need(the red and blue peaks) plus benefits from full spectrum wavelengths in small amounts. Just keep looking around the led sections here...lots of guys are using a white/red panel of some brand or style.

AT200 will is recomended for a 2.5'x3' area @18" above the canopy. In that space it will perform very similar to a 600. But some people(me included) try to stretch the coverage capabilities and then get upset it didn't work out like magic. The at200's coverage is just smaller than a 600hps, so that is where it would fall short. But you would get huge buds in the space it is supposed to cover...2.5'x3'.

AT660's are direct replacement or 1000w hps. But with more power and still the same full coverage on the edges.

With that being said and thinking of your situation, there are a couple ways you could set it up...
1) 3x9: (600hps) (AT200) (600hps)...or even (2) at660's would almost fill it but not perfect like the (hps)(200)(hps)
2) 6x6: (2)at660's and (1)hps, or you could do 5 at200 (kind of like, =-=), or (3)at200's and (2)600hps


I would do the 3x9 with (3) 600w hps if you weren't trying to go LED...so the (2) 600's with the (1)at200 in the middle would work great. The at200 would benefit from some cross over from the hps and would end up truly covering the middle 3x3 with just that little extra help. There is definitely a quality difference between led and hps...led is way smellier and frostier. And if you like what you are getting then you may just go full led after that.

If you get an apache or one of the better led's on the market you should not suffer in yield, quality, or anything from what you had/were doing before. As long as you use for the recommended coverage. And you could and should get a slight improvement, while using less power to do it.
 

HeartlandHank

Well-Known Member
Tags,
What do you think about the (2) hps and (2) AT660 setup over 6x6?
(hps) (led)

(led) (hps)

If i have the amps available... that should do well? Grams per watt, it would be more efficient than (4) 600s over 6x6?
 

tags420

Well-Known Member
That would be the best thing...I just wasn't sure what your budget was. You will be getting 1000w power/intensity but only using 660w...just like a 600hps. If you run 240v instead of 120v then your amps will drop and you can use more on one circuit. 600w of anything will pull basically the same amps, it's all in the math.

W=Amps x Volts
660w/120v=5.5A but if you run 240v, 660w/240v=2.75A

2 at660's and 2 600hps would be amazing. As long as the rest of your system keeps up, you will have enough light for some massive sun like yields.
I haven't got to use mine yet(cause they just came/coming out), but my goal will be between ~1.5g/w. Bold but doable.
 

HeartlandHank

Well-Known Member
I wish one of these reputable companies (Apache, A51) made a light in the 300 - 450 watt range. Basically, a 600hps substitute..
It seems like the AT200 falls a little short. While the 660 will perform better than 600hps, increasing efficiency.. i cannot really cut my current energy use with them while maintaining current yields. Without buying many smaller AT200s anyway..

Most likely, I'll be going with (2) AT660s to join (2) 600 hps over 6x6. I'll do a house electrical inventory and see where I can shed a few amps... 100 amp service and a high mj tolerance (and hobby junkie) is not a good combination.. haha. Unfortunately, none of my circuits are 100% dedicated to the grow, so, I cannot add 240 and do not have one in place (gas appliances).

Do you know of any lights that are equal in quality/efficiency that are in the 300-450 watt range?

I feel like I should be paying you for all these answers.. haha.

You know.. thinking it through... having a 660 option is prbly better than a 300-450 option. With the high cost of units it makes sense to be dropping an hps to produce more weight with the same consumption rather than maintain yields and drop consumption. It just wasn't where my mind was going into this.. you know.

Once again, appreciate the help. I'm not going to go on and on with the questions. You gave me what I need to think on this one. Unless you know of a 300-450 watt led you recommend, I have my work cut out for me.
 

tags420

Well-Known Member
It's all cool man. I love to talk about this kind of shit.

I know it wasn't going to save you much energy that way(2 660's and 2 600's) that's why I was steering away from the at660 at first. But it would perform like a beast.

There are a few lights in the 400w range but the prices are up there too. Califonia lightworks 400 or lumigrow 325 comes to mind possibly.
You have a good idea of what exactly you need now. Good luck
 

tags420

Well-Known Member
The Indagro room all staked up and getting bigger by the day
[video=youtube_share;gyfSPxcdD4c]http://youtu.be/gyfSPxcdD4c[/video]
 
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