The Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off Builds

R.C

Well-Known Member
Yeah they would, but they’re definitely more expensive than the epistars that’s for sure. That’s why I suggested the epi’s for the bang bucking.
That's true,, I have Epistars on my board, but there's enough of them to have some effect. I guess I would be more worried if there was only a few per board. I don't want to buy any supplemental boards right now and was satisfied with the price. and light
 

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
That's true,, I have Epistars on my board, but there's enough of them to have some effect. I guess I would be more worried if there was only a few per board. I don't want to buy any supplemental boards right now and was satisfied with the price. and light
I’m glad to hear. The QB11 strips from King Brite are pretty nice. I use them in 730 for my EOD treatment. In hind sight I should have just made my own diy far red pucks cause these are overkill but you live you learn. Some qb11 450 Blue strips would be nice though.

72978ADF-AB97-48E7-BDA7-BF8CC17CBC73.jpeg

I could only imagine how much the Cree 660 strips would kick ass at 20w each. I have 4 of 730 strips at 2.5w each for 3 mins after lights out and they’re flowering really well on a 13/11 schedule. This pic was the first day I tested them. I’ve since covered that green led from my my humidifier.
 

R.C

Well-Known Member
I’m glad to hear. The QB11 strips from King Brite are pretty nice. I use them in 730 for my EOD treatment. In hind sight I should have just made my own diy far red pucks cause these are overkill but you live you learn. Some qb11 450 Blue strips would be nice though.

View attachment 4481443

I could only imagine how much the Cree 660 strips would kick ass at 20w each. I have 4 of 730 strips at 2.5w each for 3 mins after lights out and they’re flowering really well on a 13/11 schedule. This pic was the first day I tested them. I’ve since covered that green led from my my humidifier.
Very nice indeed, they do look bright. Who knows when I have some cash may invest in two. Right now I'm still working on getting what I got dialed in.
 

Jakkar

Well-Known Member
I know this is a build thread but does anyone have any experience with these spydr style LEDs? I have one that supposedly have lm561c. I just got a par meter and will test it today or tomorrow.

Check out this product on Alibaba App Nalite led grow light bar Nalite design led grow light bar 640w 800w 10 brs 8 bar full spectrum 3500k+660nm for indoor grow
https://f2rq3.app.goo.gl/?link=https://app.alibaba.com/dynamiclink?touchId=62085004888&type=product&schema=enalibaba%3A%2F%2Fdetail%3Fid%3D62085004888%26ck%3Dshare_detail&ck=share_detail&shareScene=buyer&apn=com.alibaba.intl.android.apps.poseidon&ibi=com.alibaba.sourcing&isi=503451073&amv=691582131501157.png

I’m considering switching out my 315s, trying to find the most economical/best performance. I was thinking 2 of nalites newer style with lm301bs over 4x8 tray. Open to any other suggestions, I’d rather not build because I don’t trust my work nor do I have time to research what’s best.
 

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
I know this is a build thread but does anyone have any experience with these spydr style LEDs? I have one that supposedly have lm561c. I just got a par meter and will test it today or tomorrow.

Check out this product on Alibaba App Nalite led grow light bar Nalite design led grow light bar 640w 800w 10 brs 8 bar full spectrum 3500k+660nm for indoor grow
https://f2rq3.app.goo.gl/?link=https://app.alibaba.com/dynamiclink?touchId=62085004888&type=product&schema=enalibaba%3A%2F%2Fdetail%3Fid%3D62085004888%26ck%3Dshare_detail&ck=share_detail&shareScene=buyer&apn=com.alibaba.intl.android.apps.poseidon&ibi=com.alibaba.sourcing&isi=503451073&amv=69

I’m considering switching out my 315s, trying to find the most economical/best performance. I was thinking 2 of nalites newer style with lm301bs over 4x8 tray. Open to any other suggestions, I’d rather not build because I don’t trust my work nor do I have time to research what’s best.
They definitely work, I just can’t say how well. Saw a China spyder type copy at a buddy’s friends place the other month. Looked cool, I just don’t have any personal experience with them to give you. Buddy’s friend who owned it had nothing but great things to say about it. I know it’s not the same one but honestly, they literally all copy each other.

3E954DDC-2C5F-49DB-8AEB-28E46BE9F407.jpeg
 

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
Couldn’t tell ya man, I don’t have experience with those type of fixtures. There are many many copy’s of the “spyder style” fixtures.

ultimately all you can do is research as much as you possibly can before buying a light. If you don’t want to tinker or diy then possibly something like Jakkar posted above that has timer controls with wifi and Bluetooth capabilities.

When dealing with Alibaba it’s the Wild Wild West. Certain saloons i’d kick my feet up and relax but there’s others I’d yeee haw right the fuck past.

On Ali look for company transaction volumes and of course as always, type in the company name and model into google and see if any reviews come up in forums or YouTube videos. Look for unbiased information, not web pages that host products with links to all of them on amazon. Those pages are created by amazon affiliates to funnel traffic to Amazon, hence Jeff Bezo being as rich as he is.

I’m really enjoying my boards and strips from King Brite, so if you end up going that route you won’t be disappointed.
 

Jakkar

Well-Known Member
I tested the light out. Dead center at 10” I was getting a reading of 980 umols. Right against a bar reading was 2820 umols.

edit:: just fyi I don’t know shit about how to properly test a light. I was kind of in a rush and just winged it.
 

swedsteven

Well-Known Member

I went with those.I already have 4 unit .3 more to replace my 1000hps 720watts of lm301b 3000k with some 660nm epistar. I did not found no board with just lm301b 3000k and 660nm osram they all add uv and ir added and i dont want to mess with those.

My setup
15741210573485416227571278694837.jpg
Last harvest
2240 watts of led 5'× 9' 2100g
1000watts hps 5' × 4' 300g
Same strain clone same mother
Not a big producer but my favorite.
 

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member

I went with those.I already have 4 unit .3 more to replace my 1000hps 720watts of lm301b 3000k with some 660nm epistar. I did not found no board with just lm301b 3000k and 660nm osram they all add uv and ir added and i dont want to mess with those.

My setup
View attachment 4484699
Last harvest
2240 watts of led 5'× 9' 2100g
1000watts hps 5' × 4' 300g
Same strain clone same mother
Not a big producer but my favorite.
Look at those tank ass fan leaves in the back. Veeeery nice.
 
Long time lurker. Joined to give some insight into China's shipping from Kingbrite and Meijiu.
I placed an order with Meijiu on Jan 27th. After a week I went ahead and placed an order with Kingbrite on Feb 5th. The KB order was only delayed a couple of days because of the chinese new years. But it still arrived at my door in the US by FedEx in 12 days, I received it Feb 17th. I just now got an update status from Meijiu and my order is being prepared for shipping, it should go out today and hopefully I receive it next week. I have no idea why Meijiu took so long to ship since both companies are in Shenzhen.
The Meijiu order is a complete 320w kit, with 301b's, epistar reds, and the hlg-320h-48ab driver. The KB order was basically the same thing except for it was a 4 pack of 300k boards and a 10mm heat sink predrilled for mounting the boards. The shipping was $55. I see everyone whining about high shipping costs. Do they not understand that they are shipping express? It is unheard of to get anything from China in under a month. A week to week and a half is phenomenal and it is what you are paying for
 

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
Looking to make my light setup better.
I am running 16 of the meijiu 304 "plus" boards with the 660nm
102-114v 1200ma max
I currently have them in 4 rows for 4 each powered by a 320-2800.
I need more! So I ordered 2 more 240-2100s last night and going to reconfigure the setup some. With the current offset "checkerboard" pattern I have currently, my corners are weak and the middle is concentrated.
With the new drivers I plan to run 4 sets of 3 at 105w and thatll give me 4 boards run at 120w each to put on my corners.
Looking for opinions on board placement and spread. I have 4 8 foot long "rails" to attach to and I'd like to cover the whole 8x6ish floor space they are above nice and even. Each 2 rails cover 1 row of sites. I am considering attaching each side together to make 1 solid fixture instead of 2 independent rails. This would allow me to attach a board on the ends.

First 2 pics are how its setup now. Last pic is how I plan to wire the sets together. Others are setups I've brainstormed. Most of it is roughly to scale. Each board is 8"x13"

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bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
Tough call man, I like the set up where the boards are offset from each other with the board density being on the edges. Would definitely help utilize that Mylar and send some of that goodness to the middle while your outer and corners maintain a strong light level.
 

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
Tough call man, I like the set up where the boards are offset from each other with the board density being on the edges. Would definitely help utilize that Mylar and send some of that goodness to the middle while your outer and corners maintain a strong light level.
Yeah im really liking the 5-3-3-5 option in the middle. If thats the one you mean
 

Humple

Well-Known Member
Yeah im really liking the 5-3-3-5 option in the middle. If thats the one you mean
If you have a lux meter and you don't mind a shit-ton of work, you could hang then test, then reconfigure and repeat until you achieve optimum uniformity. But it would be a real pain in the ass to repeatedly switch everything up!
 

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
If you have a lux meter and you don't mind a shit-ton of work, you could hang then test, then reconfigure and repeat until you achieve optimum uniformity. But it would be a real pain in the ass to repeatedly switch everything up!
I had been considering adding a few more pieces to make them be able to slide up and down the rails, so this may be an option as i do have one of those cheap orange ones.
Theyre screwed to a 2x2 thats screwed to the 2x4. If I put some 2x2x2 squares on the end and another 2x2 across the top itll close it around the 2x4 and I should be able to slide it. Would add a few pounds but shouldnt been an issue since its already supported.
 

catilio

Member
Hi Guys. After reading 140+ pages I finally decided to buy from Kingbrite.

I bought 4x q288 v2 PCB only, because we (friend and I) wanted to test them out and pay just few bucks.
I thought that finding a piece of aluminum to act as a heat sink would be easy. Well, not in my country. I think i will be using a U-profile and two L-profiles (one on each side) to provide support and some heat transfer capability. I'm planning on join them using rods.

No wagos on my area. Also, no such thing as thermal conductive tape. Best option is to pick it up from Aliexpress (and wait bazzillion months to arrive).

The other option I saw here was to use an aluminum oven plate. I think I can get one of those for 10bucks each. My buddy is not so convinced though.

At least we secured a provider for the drivers here in Chile (We'll be buying either a 240H-48B or AB), so we can have 7 years warranty.

We will take 2 boards each, and I'll probably buy 2 more to cover 3x3 or 4x2 on a room i'm about to start to upgrade.

Now that I think about it, the whole ready to use kit option was nice...but we bought 4 PCB for the price of just 2x 120w kits. You cannot beat the math.
 

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
Tis is the one. Would cheap drawer sliders help at all with your layout adjustment?
i have looked at a few options like that but the cost adds up for the whole setup.
Thats mostly why my setup is how it is. Wood is cheap and easy to work with. I have plenty of screws and spend $6 on 2 2x2s to change it to how I was talking.
 
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