The far red thread

[Randomblame]

There is no certain rule! You can use up to 90% red wavelength and 10% blue or 6500°k to add some blue an green!
Warmwhite already has 45-50% red-, deep- and far-red so maybe between 10 and 40%. I would use a dimmable driver like an HLG-60H-C700B. This way you can set it to the level which gives you the best effect.
If you use all three wavelength with the HLG-60 you'll need another little lamp for EoD far-red treatments, 5-10w far-red is usually enough.

 

[Old ninja]

Can anyone tell me how many hours of darkness sativas and indicas need to stay in flowering mode after flowering has started?

 

[Airwalker16]

At LEAST 10 hours of darkness and NO MORE than 14 for 8-12 weeks. Indicas are shorter in physical size and flowering time and Sativas are the opposite

 

[Old ninja]

Thanxalot. So 13/11 is safe for both? Or 14/10 with Eod(just in theory)? What difference can it make? Bigger yields, shorter flowering time or what else? Side effects? Has anyone tried it?

 

[maxlev]

https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/lamps/products/flowering-initator-development-kit

 

[Old ninja]

my DIY kit was approx. 15$. 2x730nm leds from Led-tech.de + driver from Aliexpress+some others(box, resistances, shrink tubes etc)

 

[Randomblame]

my DIY kit was approx. 15$. 2x730nm leds from Led-tech.de + driver from Aliexpress+some others(box, resistances, shrink tubes etc)

No need for resistors! Simply take a constant current LED driver.
Enter "1-3x 1w LED driver" or "1-3x 3w driver" in e3ay's search engine; they are pretty cheap.

That's the part-number for a small 600mA CC driver(1-2 diodes), pretty sure you can get them cheaper or find them on alibaba.

321849908577

 

[grotbags]

There is no certain rule! You can use up to 90% red wavelength and 10% blue or 6500°k to add some blue an green!
Warmwhite already has 45-50% red-, deep- and far-red so maybe between 10 and 40%. I would use a dimmable driver like an HLG-60H-C700B. This way you can set it to the level which gives you the best effect.
If you use all three wavelength with the HLG-60 you'll need another little lamp for EoD far-red treatments, 5-10w far-red is usually enough.

@Randomblame

i have ordered 26 of the cree xpe2 in 630, 26 xpe2 680, and 13 xpe2 in 730. looking at the numbers at full power 1000mah they are pulling 2.6v, 2.45v and 2.15v respectively.

i was wanting the option of running the reds at full power (probably wont but nice to be able too if i wanted) so the hlg60 wont be enough, so i was thinking of the hlg120h-1050b, is the combo of 26 red(630) and 26 photo red(680) too big a series string or should i split them onto 2 hlg120h? and have separate control as bonus?.

then that would leave the far reds at 13 x 2.15v each = approx 28v, but you cant get a hlg small enough to run them any ideas?. i could use a LDD 1000 but its a bit messy would prefer a all in one driver like the hlg, but something quality not some cheap ebay fire hazard lol.

 

[grotbags]

@Randomblame

i have ordered 26 of the cree xpe2 in 630, 26 xpe2 680, and 13 xpe2 in 730. looking at the numbers at full power 1000mah they are pulling 2.6v, 2.45v and 2.15v respectively.

i was wanting the option of running the reds at full power (probably wont but nice to be able too if i wanted) so the hlg60 wont be enough, so i was thinking of the hlg120h-1050b, is the combo of 26 red(630) and 26 photo red(680) too big a series string or should i split them onto 2 hlg120h? and have separate control as bonus?.

then that would leave the far reds at 13 x 2.15v each = approx 28v, but you cant get a hlg small enough to run them any ideas?. i could use a LDD 1000 but its a bit messy would prefer a all in one driver like the hlg, but something quality not some cheap ebay fire hazard lol.

@Randomblame

 

[Randomblame]

@Randomblame

i have ordered 26 of the cree xpe2 in 630, 26 xpe2 680, and 13 xpe2 in 730. looking at the numbers at full power 1000mah they are pulling 2.6v, 2.45v and 2.15v respectively.

i was wanting the option of running the reds at full power (probably wont but nice to be able too if i wanted) so the hlg60 wont be enough, so i was thinking of the hlg120h-1050b, is the combo of 26 red(630) and 26 photo red(680) too big a series string or should i split them onto 2 hlg120h? and have separate control as bonus?.

then that would leave the far reds at 13 x 2.15v each = approx 28v, but you cant get a hlg small enough to run them any ideas?. i could use a LDD 1000 but its a bit messy would prefer a all in one driver like the hlg, but something quality not some cheap ebay fire hazard lol.

Hmm! There are 3 ways you could use them.
26 red(2,6v) + 26 deepreds(2,45v) would be ~131,3v. An HLG-120H-C1050 has 148v but the current can be as high as 1150mA(108%). So to avoid problems you should use the dimmable B version and a 90k potentiometer. Normally there is a very high variance in a bunch of 10 B100k poti's and you'll find a siutable one. If not, simply solder a 10k resistor to the middle prong of the dimmer poti. A 90k poti means you can only ramp up to 90% and this way you make sure not to over heat them.
Is it a copper or aluminum PCB the diodes sit on? Above 700mA they can get pretty hot and the aluminum is reaching its limits. At 1000mA the difference between copper and aluminum PCB's can be more than 5°C. So keep that in mind...
You could also use three HLG-60H-C700B(50-100v each) and run each 3 colors separately with its own driver.
But 13 far-reds are not enough to reach its minimum voltage.

You could also use LDD1000's and an HLG-150H-48A to drive all the LDD's on one driver but LDD's are 5v PWM dimmable which means you need so kind of PWM controller. The Bluefish controller from rapidled(199$) is able to dimm them and can also be used to dimm the bigger HLG drivers directly because the Bluefish can work with both 5 and 10v PWM.
There are also LDD boards available to connect up to 5 LDD's to one single board powered by one 48v constant voltage driver. They have dimming connection for each LDD's too so you need only to plug the LDD's in, connect the 48v driver to the board and connect the each pair of dimming wires to one controller channel. I believe out of the box the Bluefish has 6 PWM connection but with extension board you can have as much channels as you like. But LDD's have not enough voltage to drive 26 red or deepred diodes. So you need 2 LDD for the red and two LDD's for the deepred channels. The 5th one could drive the 13 far-red diodes. So you would end up with 2 red, 2 deep red and 1 farr ed channel.

That last solution would be a series-parallel connection with red and deep red diodes driven by an HLG-150H-54B(2,8A, probably up to 3A). You would have 54v to play with, that's enough for 10 reds and 10 deepreds in series(50,5v) and with 3 parallel strings each string would run with min. 850 and max. up to 1000mA(depends on driver current, most MW have up to 108%. But like you have already recognized, you would need more diodes.

The LDD + controller combo is for sure the most elegant solution but the Bluefish controller is an expensive toy. If you anyway plan to use a controller to mimic sun rise and sunset, well, get the Bluefish. Because of its 10v PWM connectivity it works out of the box with the big Meanwell drivers. Other controllers like the HurricaneX from stevesled need an extension card and a 10-12v driver to work with the 10v PWM dimmable MW's.

 

[grotbags]

Hmm! There are 3 ways you could use them.
26 red(2,6v) + 26 deepreds(2,45v) would be ~131,3v. An HLG-120H-C1050 has 148v but the current can be as high as 1150mA(108%). So to avoid problems you should use the dimmable B version and a 90k potentiometer. Normally there is a very high variance in a bunch of 10 B100k poti's and you'll find a siutable one. If not, simply solder a 10k resistor to the middle prong of the dimmer poti. A 90k poti means you can only ramp up to 90% and this way you make sure not to over heat them.
Is it a copper or aluminum PCB the diodes sit on? Above 700mA they can get pretty hot and the aluminum is reaching its limits. At 1000mA the difference between copper and aluminum PCB's can be more than 5°C. So keep that in mind...
You could also use three HLG-60H-C700B(50-100v each) and run each 3 colors separately with its own driver.
But 13 far-reds are not enough to reach its minimum voltage.

You could also use LDD1000's and an HLG-150H-48A to drive all the LDD's on one driver but LDD's are 5v PWM dimmable which means you need so kind of PWM controller. The Bluefish controller from rapidled(199$) is able to dimm them and can also be used to dimm the bigger HLG drivers directly because the Bluefish can work with both 5 and 10v PWM.
There are also LDD boards available to connect up to 5 LDD's to one single board powered by one 48v constant voltage driver. They have dimming connection for each LDD's too so you need only to plug the LDD's in, connect the 48v driver to the board and connect the each pair of dimming wires to one controller channel. I believe out of the box the Bluefish has 6 PWM connection but with extension board you can have as much channels as you like. But LDD's have not enough voltage to drive 26 red or deepred diodes. So you need 2 LDD for the red and two LDD's for the deepred channels. The 5th one could drive the 13 far-red diodes. So you would end up with 2 red, 2 deep red and 1 farr ed channel.

That last solution would be a series-parallel connection with red and deep red diodes driven by an HLG-150H-54B(2,8A, probably up to 3A). You would have 54v to play with, that's enough for 10 reds and 10 deepreds in series(50,5v) and with 3 parallel strings each string would run with min. 850 and max. up to 1000mA(depends on driver current, most MW have up to 108%. But like you have already recognized, you would need more diodes.

The LDD + controller combo is for sure the most elegant solution but the Bluefish controller is an expensive toy. If you anyway plan to use a controller to mimic sun rise and sunset, well, get the Bluefish. Because of its 10v PWM connectivity it works out of the box with the big Meanwell drivers. Other controllers like the HurricaneX from stevesled need an extension card and a 10-12v driver to work with the 10v PWM dimmable MW's.

thanks man... right i think i will only drive the reds at a 700mah max, saves messing on with down potting a resistor plus i already have a load of the rapidled 0-10v pwm dimmers. all the reds are mounted on a direct thermal path copper star pcb and then mounted on ali 2020 extrusion so i think i will just use 2 HLG-60H_C700B's for the 26 630's and the 26 680's.

so that just leaves a constant current driver for the 13 x 730's, at 700mah that will be about 26v. the only half decent constant current driver i can find is a inventronics EBC-042S105DV-0004 its 850mah and has a voltage range of 25v to 49v but i can only find it on alibaba so shipping to the uk for one unit might not be feasible.

are there any stand alone 0-5v pwm dimmers that can be used with the ldd meanwells?, i didnt want to go down the controller route yet as i think the current offerings are not up to scratch and i think another 6 months and hopefully they will be some dedicated led controllers on the market, for the time being i was just going to use a sonoff 4 chan pro to do the timers and manual dimming then upgrade to a controller later.
if i could use a LDD with a stand alone dimmer that would do for the time being.

 

[Rocket Soul]

thanks man... right i think i will only drive the reds at a 700mah max, saves messing on with down potting a resistor plus i already have a load of the rapidled 0-10v pwm dimmers. all the reds are mounted on a direct thermal path copper star pcb and then mounted on ali 2020 extrusion so i think i will just use 2 HLG-60H_C700B's for the 26 630's and the 26 680's.

so that just leaves a constant current driver for the 13 x 730's, at 700mah that will be about 26v. the only half decent constant current driver i can find is a inventronics EBC-042S105DV-0004 its 850mah and has a voltage range of 25v to 49v but i can only find it on alibaba so shipping to the uk for one unit might not be feasible.

are there any stand alone 0-5v pwm dimmers that can be used with the ldd meanwells?, i didnt want to go down the controller route yet as i think the current offerings are not up to scratch and i think another 6 months and hopefully they will be some dedicated led controllers on the market, for the time being i was just going to use a sonoff 4 chan pro to do the timers and manual dimming then upgrade to a controller later.
if i could use a LDD with a stand alone dimmer that would do for the time being.

You can try led-tech.de for low voltage drivers, last time i checked they had a fairly big selection. They are helpfull on mail aswell

 

[Randomblame]

thanks man... right i think i will only drive the reds at a 700mah max, saves messing on with down potting a resistor plus i already have a load of the rapidled 0-10v pwm dimmers. all the reds are mounted on a direct thermal path copper star pcb and then mounted on ali 2020 extrusion so i think i will just use 2 HLG-60H_C700B's for the 26 630's and the 26 680's.

so that just leaves a constant current driver for the 13 x 730's, at 700mah that will be about 26v. the only half decent constant current driver i can find is a inventronics EBC-042S105DV-0004 its 850mah and has a voltage range of 25v to 49v but i can only find it on alibaba so shipping to the uk for one unit might not be feasible.

are there any stand alone 0-5v pwm dimmers that can be used with the ldd meanwells?, i didnt want to go down the controller route yet as i think the current offerings are not up to scratch and i think another 6 months and hopefully they will be some dedicated led controllers on the market, for the time being i was just going to use a sonoff 4 chan pro to do the timers and manual dimming then upgrade to a controller later.
if i could use a LDD with a stand alone dimmer that would do for the time being.

You could use an PLM-25-700 to run the far-red diodes at 700mA. I've added the datasheet below..
For 5v and 10v PWM dimming you can also use the Pacificlightingconcepts controller plus HUB(forget the name but you can find it on the PLC website). As far as I remember it can work with both and costs less than a third of a Bluefish but I don't know how much channels are available on this controller.
LDD's should work with every type of PWM dimmer as long as it has 5v and a siutable duty cycle for flicker free dimming(high enough PWM frequency, have a look at the LDD datasheet for requirements).
The PWM dimming cards would probably need an own 5v powersupply but you could use an old smartphone USB charger for them, that's not a problem.

 

[grotbags]

You can try led-tech.de for low voltage drivers, last time i checked they had a fairly big selection. They are helpfull on mail aswell

had a look on led-tech.de(been playing with the system live-configurator, messing with colour spectrums), but none of the drivers of a suitable size can dim. thanks for trying though.

 

[grotbags]

You could use an PLM-25-700 to run the far-red diodes at 700mA. I've added the datasheet below..
For 5v and 10v PWM dimming you can also use the Pacificlightingconcepts controller plus HUB(forget the name but you can find it on the PLC website). As far as I remember it can work with both and costs less than a third of a Bluefish but I don't know how much channels are available on this controller.
LDD's should work with every type of PWM dimmer as long as it has 5v and a siutable duty cycle for flicker free dimming(high enough PWM frequency, have a look at the LDD datasheet for requirements).
The PWM dimming cards would probably need an own 5v powersupply but you could use an old smartphone USB charger for them, that's not a problem.

the PLM has no dimming option that i can see? i would really like to be able to control/dimming over all the channels. i had seen the pacificlightingconcepts amelech stuff but he no longer sells the hub which i can now only find on alibaba and it looks like a single hub is now $80 then plus controller at $30 its not a cheap option anymore.

looks like i might have to start investigating the Ldd + standalone 0-5v pwm dimmer option a bit more...

thanks for the help, if anyone has any info on 0-5vpwm dimmers that would be most welcome.

 

[Randomblame]

the PLM has no dimming option that i can see? i would really like to be able to control/dimming over all the channels. i had seen the pacificlightingconcepts amelech stuff but he no longer sells the hub which i can now only find on alibaba and it looks like a single hub is now $80 then plus controller at $30 its not a cheap option anymore.

looks like i might have to start investigating the Ldd + standalone 0-5v pwm dimmer option a bit more...

thanks for the help, if anyone has any info on 0-5vpwm dimmers that would be most welcome.

Forget the LDD's! When you have no kind of multi channel controller it gets too complicated.
If you want also the far-red channel dimmable you could use an HLG-40H-42B. It has less than 1A max. and the voltage of 13 far-red's in series is inside the CC area.
This means when you connect just a single string with ~26v the driver can deliver maximum current but its voltage would be too high so it would maintain max. current but switch into CC mode. Maximum with this setup would be ~26w net. and ~29w total. You can still use a B100k dimmer to reduce current flow. (B means linear)

It's probably the best(cheapest) solution to use an HLG-40H-42B(far-red) and 2 HLG-60H-C700B(red + deepred) and shit on that PWM dimming and LDD's. This DC to DC driver solution is anyway not very efficient. A 91% efficient HLG-150H-48 + 96% efficient LDD's would mean (0,91 x 0,96) 87,36% driver efficiency in the best case but probably only 80-85% under real world conditions. From an HLG-40/60 you can at least expect 89,5-90,5% efficiency.

 

[tomate]

How about the Mean Well LPF Series type D ?

 

[grotbags]

Forget the LDD's! When you have no kind of multi channel controller it gets too complicated.
If you want also the far-red channel dimmable you could use an HLG-40H-42B. It has less than 1A max. and the voltage of 13 far-red's in series is inside the CC area.
This means when you connect just a single string with ~26v the driver can deliver maximum current but its voltage would be too high so it would maintain max. current but switch into CC mode. Maximum with this setup would be ~26w net. and ~29w total. You can still use a B100k dimmer to reduce current flow. (B means linear)

It's probably the best(cheapest) solution to use an HLG-40H-42B(far-red) and 2 HLG-60H-C700B(red + deepred) and shit on that PWM dimming and LDD's. This DC to DC driver solution is anyway not very efficient. A 91% efficient HLG-150H-48 + 96% efficient LDD's would mean (0,91 x 0,96) 87,36% driver efficiency in the best case but probably only 80-85% under real world conditions. From an HLG-40/60 you can at least expect 89,5-90,5% efficiency.

right... it would never have occurred to me to use a constant voltage driver for the far reds. i had read about the CV+CC mode on the CV drivers but its never really sunk in yet how it all works together, but i think i get it now. the strips total volts being under the CV drivers current range forces the driver into constant current mode and it will just hold its maximum output which is under the diodes max then i can just dim it for required intensity.
so basically im wiring the diodes in series like you would for a CC driver but using a CV driver and because its under its current range will act like a CC driver.

so while i have your ear the rest of the light will be comprised off 28 samsung h influx l04 strips(20 3000k + 8 5000k) these are the 64 diode 8s8p config with a max of 1600mah/strip. i already have the strips so they might as well be used it just means i have to use more of them to get to the required watts with them being the baby of the hinflux strips but that also means a better spread of diodes but also at the cost of a bigger heavier more costly frame but hey-ho as long as it doesn't pull the ceiling down it will be sweet!.

if i run the strips at 1000mah each that should be about 624w plus the 113w total of the reds(i think they were roughly 1.75w each at 700mah,ill have to check again) should be killer for the approx 4.5x4.5ft.

i was wanting to run the 5000k strips and 3000k strips on separate drivers so i can up the 5000k and soften the 3000k in pre-flower veg.
so was thinking of using one HLG-240H-48B for the 8 x 5000k strips wired 4 parallel strings with 2 strips in series that should give each strip approx max of 1355mah.
for the the 3000k i was thinking 2 x HLG-320H-48B wired 5 parallel strings with 2 strips in series on each driver. each strip would receive a max of 1531mah.

then looking at the driver specs and the strip voltages both the HLG-240H-48B and the HLG-320H-48B will be in CC mode aswell, at full power the strips will take all the current the drivers can supply forcing them to run wide open in CC mode.
but even if i dim them down under what the drivers can supply at a strip voltage of say 2 x 22.3v = 44.6v at 1000mah the voltage is under the minimum of the drivers so they will stay in CC mode. so for the driver to run in CV mode i would have to run the strips at max that would be 2 x 25v = 50v at 1600mah that would put the voltage in the right region for CV mode but because the driver simply cant supply that it would just stay in CC mode flat out.
so in this case im wiring in parallel like you would for a CV and using a CV driver but again because its under the drivers working current range it will act like a CC driver really no matter how hard or soft i run it.

am i understanding this correctly?.

i guess it because of the voltage of the h influx strips they sit right between the HLG-XXX-20/42 and the HLG-XXX-24/48(single strip or 2 in series).

 

[grotbags]

right... it would never have occurred to me to use a constant voltage driver for the far reds. i had read about the CV+CC mode on the CV drivers but its never really sunk in yet how it all works together, but i think i get it now. the strips total volts being under the CV drivers current range forces the driver into constant current mode and it will just hold its maximum output which is under the diodes max then i can just dim it for required intensity.
so basically im wiring the diodes in series like you would for a CC driver but using a CV driver and because its under its current range will act like a CC driver.

so while i have your ear the rest of the light will be comprised off 28 samsung h influx l04 strips(20 3000k + 8 5000k) these are the 64 diode 8s8p config with a max of 1600mah/strip. i already have the strips so they might as well be used it just means i have to use more of them to get to the required watts with them being the baby of the hinflux strips but that also means a better spread of diodes but also at the cost of a bigger heavier more costly frame but hey-ho as long as it doesn't pull the ceiling down it will be sweet!.

if i run the strips at 1000mah each that should be about 624w plus the 113w total of the reds(i think they were roughly 1.75w each at 700mah,ill have to check again) should be killer for the approx 4.5x4.5ft.

i was wanting to run the 5000k strips and 3000k strips on separate drivers so i can up the 5000k and soften the 3000k in pre-flower veg.
so was thinking of using one HLG-240H-48B for the 8 x 5000k strips wired 4 parallel strings with 2 strips in series that should give each strip approx max of 1355mah.
for the the 3000k i was thinking 2 x HLG-320H-48B wired 5 parallel strings with 2 strips in series on each driver. each strip would receive a max of 1531mah.

then looking at the driver specs and the strip voltages both the HLG-240H-48B and the HLG-320H-48B will be in CC mode aswell, at full power the strips will take all the current the drivers can supply forcing them to run wide open in CC mode.
but even if i dim them down under what the drivers can supply at a strip voltage of say 2 x 22.3v = 44.6v at 1000mah the voltage is under the minimum of the drivers so they will stay in CC mode. so for the driver to run in CV mode i would have to run the strips at max that would be 2 x 25v = 50v at 1600mah that would put the voltage in the right region for CV mode but because the driver simply cant supply that it would just stay in CC mode flat out.
so in this case im wiring in parallel like you would for a CV and using a CV driver but again because its under the drivers working current range it will act like a CC driver really no matter how hard or soft i run it.

am i understanding this correctly?.

i guess it because of the voltage of the h influx strips they sit right between the HLG-XXX-20/42 and the HLG-XXX-24/48(single strip or 2 in series).

anyone care to offer an opinion on my driver choice for the strips? should i stick with the 48B? hopefully @Randomblame will see this and chime in

 

[Randomblame]

right... it would never have occurred to me to use a constant voltage driver for the far reds. i had read about the CV+CC mode on the CV drivers but its never really sunk in yet how it all works together, but i think i get it now. the strips total volts being under the CV drivers current range forces the driver into constant current mode and it will just hold its maximum output which is under the diodes max then i can just dim it for required intensity.
so basically im wiring the diodes in series like you would for a CC driver but using a CV driver and because its under its current range will act like a CC driver.

so while i have your ear the rest of the light will be comprised off 28 samsung h influx l04 strips(20 3000k + 8 5000k) these are the 64 diode 8s8p config with a max of 1600mah/strip. i already have the strips so they might as well be used it just means i have to use more of them to get to the required watts with them being the baby of the hinflux strips but that also means a better spread of diodes but also at the cost of a bigger heavier more costly frame but hey-ho as long as it doesn't pull the ceiling down it will be sweet!.

if i run the strips at 1000mah each that should be about 624w plus the 113w total of the reds(i think they were roughly 1.75w each at 700mah,ill have to check again) should be killer for the approx 4.5x4.5ft.

i was wanting to run the 5000k strips and 3000k strips on separate drivers so i can up the 5000k and soften the 3000k in pre-flower veg.
so was thinking of using one HLG-240H-48B for the 8 x 5000k strips wired 4 parallel strings with 2 strips in series that should give each strip approx max of 1355mah.
for the the 3000k i was thinking 2 x HLG-320H-48B wired 5 parallel strings with 2 strips in series on each driver. each strip would receive a max of 1531mah.

then looking at the driver specs and the strip voltages both the HLG-240H-48B and the HLG-320H-48B will be in CC mode aswell, at full power the strips will take all the current the drivers can supply forcing them to run wide open in CC mode.
but even if i dim them down under what the drivers can supply at a strip voltage of say 2 x 22.3v = 44.6v at 1000mah the voltage is under the minimum of the drivers so they will stay in CC mode. so for the driver to run in CV mode i would have to run the strips at max that would be 2 x 25v = 50v at 1600mah that would put the voltage in the right region for CV mode but because the driver simply cant supply that it would just stay in CC mode flat out.
so in this case im wiring in parallel like you would for a CV and using a CV driver but again because its under the drivers working current range it will act like a CC driver really no matter how hard or soft i run it.

am i understanding this correctly?.

i guess it because of the voltage of the h influx strips they sit right between the HLG-XXX-20/42 and the HLG-XXX-24/48(single strip or 2 in series).

Yepp! That's all correct, bro!
But at 1,3-1,5amps the voltage is already higher like 22,3v with 1000mA. In the moment the voltage reach the CV area(vol. adjust. range on A version drivers) the driver would switch in CV mode.
But with a series-parallel setup it really don't matters which mode is used, the maximum current each string gets is simply not high enough to damage the diodes. The voltage/resistance differences between modern LED modules are really small (less than 0,1v) so with strings of 2 strips the voltage of each string should be pretty much the same.
This also reduces the risk to get thermal runaways but make sure they all use the same type of heat sink and run with the same case temps. When you can feel temp differences between the strip heatsinks that's an indication for thermal runaways but it would also be visible because the hottest strips would get more current and would shine brighter.

B type driver also switch to CC mode if the voltage fells off of the "CV area" but it's not a problem with the strip setup. For B-type drivers the point is not exactly mentioned but as soon as he can deliver all of its current and the voltage is below 48v he should use CC mode. At first he would try to use its constant 48v but with 48v the strips would run with 1,6A(the 25v in the datasheet is absolut maximum, not the voltage at max. current). The used bin would use around 3v at 200mA so at 24v you already see 1,6A. But for your setup the driver has not enough current(each string gets only ~1,5A). Now the driver is again forced to apply ~47V and he should switch in CC mode.
With the A-type driver this range is only a bit wider because of the adjustable voltage range but B type has no voltage regulator. For this reason they switch earlier into CC mode.

Only with a single string that could be an issue but only when the driver has enough current to damage the diodes.
Lets say you have 10 cheap ebay full spectrum 3w diodes, 33v @700mA and you use an HLG-40H-36A or B.
With A-type you could reduce the voltage to 33v and because voltage limits current flow the string would run with ~700mA.
With B-type the diodes would get probably 35v and the full current of the driver and the diodes would die because of overheating.To make sure the diodes/driver run in CC mode, its dimmable and does not create overheating you need to take the HLG-40H-42, 48 or 54A or B. The driver can not apply the CV mode and for this reason he would run in CC mode. With the 42v version (980mA) its still enough to damage the diodes but you can dimm them down a bit. 48v version has still 0,83A.. still too much but 54v has only 740mA and this fits with this type of diodes. So 33,2v maybe and ~750mA max.

With Osram Oslons or XP-E/E2's in far-red 1A is maximum current and the 42v version is the best fitting driver if you plan to run them near or slightly above max. current.
The 48v version has "only" ~830mA from datasheet but can probably go to ~900mA. So there would be still a bit of head room and its perfectly safe to use the driver this way.
For all this reasons I've recommemded the HLG-40H-48B to drive your string from13 far-reds. With 900mA they would use 2,2-2,3v each so maybe 30v for the whole string, that's ~27w net and 30-31w at the wall